100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.25$. Read more.

Raspberry Frills

Knitted slippers with garter stitch and picot edge. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow.

DROPS 182-44
DROPS Design: Pattern ee-615
Yarn group E or C + C
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43

Foot length: 22 - 24 - 26 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10 1/4''
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
250-250-300 g color 09, old pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM / US 10 - or the size needed to get 13 stitches and 26 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PICOT EDGE (back and forth on needle):
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 4 stitches left, these are worked as follows: Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, in each of the last 2 stitches work 2 stitches = 2 new stitches on needle.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 1 and pass the back stitch on the right needle over the front, 2 stitches now decreased - then knit to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 - 4.

The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle.

Cast on 26-28-30 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and Snow. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME as you work PICOT EDGE – see description above, over the last 4 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When you have worked a total of 37-39-41 ridges (i.e. 74-78-82 rows, the piece measures approx. 28-30-32 cm / 11"-11 3/4"-12½'') bind off.

Knit up 1 stitch in each ridge along the long side without the picot edge = 37-39-41 stitches. Work 2 ridges, then knit 1 row from the right side.
The next row is worked as follows - from the wrong side. Work the first 14-14-15 stitches and place on a thread, increase 1 stitch, work the next 9-11-11 stitches, increase 1 stitch, work the last 14-14-15 stitches and place these 14-14-15 stitches on a thread. Cut the strand. Continue working garter stitch over the middle 11-13-13 stitches. When top piece measures 7-8½-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/4"-4'' bind off the 1 edge stitch in each side = 9-11-11 stitches, place stitches on a thread. Cut the strand. Work the next row as follows (= from the right side): Work stitches from the threads AT THE SAME TIME as you knit up 12-14-16 stitches on each side of the top piece inside the 1 edge stitch = 61-67-73 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread mid front of toe. Continue with garter stitch back and forth to finished length. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', knit 2 together on each side of the marker thread. Repeat the decrease every 2nd row – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-2'' knit 2 stitches together inside the 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece, repeat the decrease in the sides every 2nd row (= a total of 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row). When piece measures 5-5-6 cm / 2''-2''-2½'' place stitches on a thread. Work another slipper in the same way.

Divide the stitches between 2 needles (= mid under foot), lay double and sew together lengthwise with grafting stitches.
Sew the slipper mid back and up the leg – sew in the outermost loop of outermost stitch, so that the seam will not show when folding down the top part towards the right side.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 182-44

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Gaby wrote:

Sehr schlechte Beschreibung. Ein paar mehr Bebilderungen würden schon helfen.

03.03.2024 - 21:23

country flag Carole wrote:

Je ne comprends pas du tout les écrits pour l'assemblage. Tout ce que je peux dire c'est que maintenant j'ai 51 mailles sur 1 aiguille. Je suis rendue à faire l'assemblage. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer avec plus d'informations svp? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide

24.12.2022 - 03:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, glissez la moitié de vos mailles sur une autre aiguille (ou bien glissez la moitié de vos mailles sur l'autre extrémité de l'aiguille circulaire en faisant bien en sorte que votre fil de début des rangs se trouve toujours en début de rang, et pas au milieu du chausson) et assemblez les mailles ensemble en grafting, comme dans cette vidéo. Vous devez commencer par le côté talon et terminer par le côté pointe (la moitié de votre rang). Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 08:51

country flag Carole wrote:

Rebonjour, Désolée de vous déranger encore une fois mais je ne vois pas comment je peux faire ça. Y a-t-il une place où je pourrais vous envoyer une photo d'où je suis rendue? Peut-être que je n'ai pas fait le début comme il faut. Je suis vraiment mal prise et pourtant je tricote depuis un certain temps. J'espère que vous pourrez m’aider Merci

22.11.2022 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter la partie "pied" d'autres chaussons mais on fera de la même façon ici, sauf que les mailles ne sont pas montées mais relevées dans les rangs (côtes mousse) de la bordure picot. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

23.11.2022 - 09:12

country flag Carole wrote:

Merci infiniment pour les explications. Votre réponse, c'est très apprécié.

22.11.2022 - 11:48

country flag Carole wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les explications après avoir fini le dessus mesure 7cm. Pouvez-vous peut-être me l'expliquer autrement? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide

21.11.2022 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, lorsque le dessus du pied mesure 7 cm, tricotez 1 rang sur l'envers en rabattant 1 m de chaque côté = il reste 9 m, coupez le fil et mettez en attente. Vous allez maintenant tricoter toutes les mailles: reprenez les 14 m en attente, relevez 12 m le long du côté droit de la partie centrale, tricotez les 9 m, relevez 12 m le long du côté gauche de la partie centrale et reprenez les 14 m en attente = 61 m; tricotez maintenant au point mousse pendant 4 cm, mais après 2 cm, vous allez diminuer au milieu + de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

22.11.2022 - 10:02

country flag Carmela Squatrito Accetta wrote:

Ho lavorato questo modello con il bordo picot, ho riscontrato questa difficoltà:la parte della gamba risulta, larga rispetto al piede, forse per il bordo conviene lavorarla con i ferri più piccoli? Grazie, per le vostre spiegazioni molto chiare, e per i video .

29.01.2021 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Carmela, come può vedere anche dalla foto questo modello non è aderente: controlli di non aver modificato la sua tensione. Buon lavoro!

29.01.2021 - 19:38

country flag Debbie wrote:

What is your eskimo group E yarn comparable to in US weight yarns is it a bulky? Super bulky, chunky??

11.04.2018 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, the DROPS Eskimo yarn can be considered "super-bulky" in teh US yarn-weight system. There is 50 meters in a 50 gramm skein, and we suggest using about 8 mm thick needles. Don not forget however, that eveyone knits slightly difefrently, therefore it is very important to always knit a swatch, wash it and check your gauge, and change needle sizes if necessary. Happy Crafting!

12.04.2018 - 02:14