DROPS / 205 / 44

Midnight Fire by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with relief-treble crochets and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-216
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 06, black
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 02, wheat
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 13, orange
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 20, rose

CROCHET TENSION:
13 double treble crochets in width and 5.3 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
13 stitches in width and 13 rows with relief-pattern in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Each row is worked back and forth and is worked together at end/beginning of each row as follows:
Each row of double crochets starts with 1 chain stitch (does not replace the first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, turn the piece.
Each row of treble crochets starts with 3 chain stitches (replace the first treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the row, turn the piece.
Each row of double treble crochets starts with 4 chain stitches (replaces the first double treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the row, turn the piece.


PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

COLOUR CHANGE:
When changing colour at the beginning of a row, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous row with the new colour.

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches (e.g. 58 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 5.8. In this example, increase by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch approx. every 6th stitch.

STRIPES YOKE:
NOTE: Always change colour after a row of double crochets!
The stripes are worked top down as follows:
7-7-7-7-9-9 rows with wheat.
4 rows with black.
2 rows with rose.
2 rows with orange.
4 rows with black.
2 rows with orange.
2 rows with wheat.
* 2 rows with orange, 2 rows with rose *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-2-2-2 times.
2 rows with wheat.
2 rows with rose.
2 rows with black.
Then work with black and pattern A.5Y to finished length.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 2 stitches by working as shown in A.7. Decrease alternately before and after marker thread.

WORK 2 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER (for sleeve):
Work 2 double treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 double treble crochet in the first stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more double treble crochet in the next stitch and on the last pull-through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook (= 1 double treble crochet decreased).

STRIPES CUFF:
NOTE: Always change colour after a row of double crochets!
The stripes are worked top down as follows:
3 rows with black.
2 rows with orange.
2 rows with rose.
2 rows with black.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth (i.e. alternately from right and wrong side) and crocheted together at the end of each row, top down. The sleeves are worked back and forth and crocheted together at the end of each row, top down. The neck is worked to finish.

YOKE:
Work 58-60-62-66-70-72 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 5.5 mm and black and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch to end of round = 58-60-62-66-70-72 double crochets. Change to wheat – read COLOUR CHANGE.
On the next row begin STRIPES YOKE – read description above from the wrong side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet and increase 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 68-70-72-78-82-84 double crochets.
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet = 68-70-72-78-82-84 treble crochets.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
* A.1 (= 2 stitches), repeat A.2 over the next 32-32-34-36-38-40 stitches (= 16-16-17-18-19-20 repeats of 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work A.2 over the last 0-2-0-2-2-0 stitches (= 0-1-0-1-1-0 repeats of 2 stitches). When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 132-136-140-152-160-164 stitches on the last row. Repeat A.1X and A.2X onwards until the piece measures approx.13-13-14-14-15-15 cm – adjust to after a row from the right side.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
A.3 over the first 0-4-2-2-4-2 stitches (= 0-2-1-1-2-1 repeats of 2 stitches), repeat A.4 over the next 132-132-138-150-156-162 stitches (= 22-22-23-25-26-27 repeats of 6 stitches).
When A.3 and A.4 have been completed in height there are 176-180-186-202-212-218 stitches on the last row. Repeat A.3X and A.4X onwards until the piece measures approx. 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm – adjust to after a row from the right side.

SIZES S–­­M:
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
* Repeat A.5 over the first 86-16 stitches (= 43-8 repeats of 2 stitches), A.6 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 2-10 times. Work up to and including A.5X and A.6X = 180-200 stitches on the last row. Repeat A.5X and A.6X onwards until the last stripe is finished. Then work A.5Y over all stitches. Repeat A.5Y onwards until the piece measures approx. 23-24 cm – adjust to after a row from the right side.

SIZES L–XL–XXXL:
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
* Repeat A.5 over the first 6-10-4 stitches (= 3-5-2 repeats of 2 stitches), A.6 (= 2 stitches), repeat A.5 over the next 8-12-6 stitches (= 4-6-3 repeats of 2 stitches), A.6 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 10-7-14 times, repeat A.5 over the next 4-18-20 stitches (= 2-9-10 repeats of 2 stitches) and finish with A.6 (= 2 stitches). Work up to and including A.5X and A.6X = 228-232-276 stitches on last row. Repeat A.5X and A.6X until the last stripe is finished. Then work A.5Y over all stitches. Repeat A.5Y onwards until the piece measures approx. 25-27-31 cm – adjust to after a row from the right side.

SIZE XXL:
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
* Repeat A.5 over the first 6 stitches (= 3 repeats of 2 stitches), A.6 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 24 times, repeat A.5 over the last 20 stitches (= 10 repeats of 2 stitches). Work up to and including A.5X and A.6X = 260 stitches on the last row. Repeat A.5X and A.6X until the last stripe is finished. Then work A.5Y over all stitches. Repeat A.5Y onwards until the piece measures approx. 29 cm – adjust to after a row from the right side.

ALL SIZES:
= 180-200-228-232-260-276 stitches.
Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves from the wrong side as follows:
Work as before over the first 56-62-70-72-80-86 stitches (= back piece), work 6-6-6-8-8-8 loose chain stitches (= mid under sleeve), skip the next 34-38-44-44-50-52 stitches (= sleeve), work as before over the next 56-62-70-72-80-86 stitches (= front piece), work 6-6-6-8-8-8 loose chain stitches (= mid under sleeve), skip the remaining 34-38-44-44-50-52 stitches (= sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 124-136-152-160-176-188 double crochets. Continue pattern A.5Y as before over all stitches until the piece measures 28-29-29-30-30-30 cm from the division (or to desired length) – adjust to after a row from the wrong side. Cut and fasten strand.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked back and forth (alternately from right and wrong side) and is crocheted together with 1 slip stitch on each row.
Start in the 4th chain stitch in the 6-6-6-8-8-8 chain stitches worked for the armhole on the body as follows: 1 slip stitch, 4 chain stitches (= 1 double treble crochet), 1 double treble crochet in each of the next 2-2-2-3-3-3 chain stitches, continue A.5Y as before over the next 34-38-44-44-50-52 stitches, 1 double treble crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-4-4-4 chain stitches under the sleeve = 40-44-50-52-58-60 double treble crochets.
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round; this is used when decreasing a little later. Continue pattern A.5Y as before over all stitches. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 2-2-4-4-6-4 times = 36-40-42-44-46-52 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 35-34-34-32-30-29 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is 10 cm left to finished length – NOTE: shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) – adjust to after a row from the wrong side. Work the next row and decrease as follows: Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 0-1-0-2-1-1 stitches, * WORK 2 DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – read description above, 1 double treble crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* to end of row = 24-27-28-30-31-35 double treble crochets. Work 1 row of double crochets. Work the next row with double treble crochets and decrease 2-3-4-4-3-7 double treble crochets evenly spaced = 22-24-24-26-28-28 double treble crochets.
Then work a cuff with relief-treble crochets and STRIPES CUFF – read description above as follows: A.8 over all stitches (= 11-12-12-13-14-14 repeats of 2 stitches). When A.8 has been completed, cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Work back and forth over the row of chain stitches in the neck with black as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Start mid back, fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in a double crochet, work 2 chain stitches (= 1 half treble crochet), work 1 half treble crochet in each double crochet to end of row = 58-60-62-66-70-72 half treble crochets.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work 1 half treble crochet in each half treble crochet = 58-60-62-66-70-72 half treble crochets.
ROW 3 (= from right side): Work 1 half treble crochet in each half treble crochet = 58-60-62-66-70-72 half treble crochets.
ROW 4 (= from wrong side): Work 1 double crochet in each half treble crochet = 58-60-62-66-70-72 double crochets. Cut and fasten strand.

Diagram

= row already worked! Start at arrow
= start here
= double crochet in stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= RELIEF-DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (only on treble crochet rows): Work 1 double treble crochet around 1 double crochet/ double treble crochet from previous double crochet row/double treble crochet row, at the beginning of the row (do not work in the loops, but around the stitch itself). Start of line = row where this row of relief-treble crochets begins. The circle at end of relief-double treble crochet = shows which treble crochet from the previous double crochet row/double treble crochet row you work around.
= RELIEF-DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (only on treble crochet rows): Work 1 double treble crochet around 1 relief-double treble crochet from the previous treble crochet row (do not work in the loops, but around the relief-double treble crochet itself). Start of line = row where this of relief-double treble crochets begins. Point at end of relief-double treble crochet = shows which relief-double treble crochet from the previous treble crochet row you work around.
= double treble crochet in stitch
= 2 RELIEF-DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET WORKED TOGETHER: Work 1 relief-double treble crochet around the first relief-double treble crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through, work 1 more relief-double treble crochet around the next relief-double treble crochet. Make 1 yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-44) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Anneloes 24.09.2020 - 18:27:

Hoi, er staat; als A1 en A2 klaar zijn in de hoogte, zijn er 152 steken op de laatste toer. Betekent dat, dat ik A1 en A2 moet blijven herhalen, tot ik aan dit aantal steken ben gekomen?

DROPS Design 18.11.2020 kl. 13:45:

Dag Anneloes,

Nee, het betekent dat als je A.1 en A.2 in de hoogte hebt gehaakt, dat je dan 152 steken op de toer hebt.

Isabella 24.08.2020 - 22:22:

Kan jeg få en forklaring på diagram A.1 med ord. Jeg har svært ved at aflæse hvad jeg skal og jeg har læst vejledningen for diagrammer.

DROPS Design 27.08.2020 kl. 14:39:

Hej Isabella, har du set videoen? Hvordan hækles reliefstangmasker og udtagninger i DROPS 205-44

Berit Dalgas Skibsted 21.08.2020 - 14:40:

Jeg er kommet til delen med A.1/A.2. Skal jeg ikke lave udtagninger på det stykke før end jeg når op til A.2X?

DROPS Design 27.08.2020 kl. 13:53:

Hej Berit, jeg tror du får svar ved at se vores video: Hvordan hækles reliefstangmasker og udtagninger i DROPS 205-44 God fornøjelse!

Blanca 23.05.2020 - 09:23:

Muy buen patrón, no sé mucho crochet pero pude hacerlo. Es mi primera chomba a crochet! Las medidas de lana no me dieron igual, pero por muy poco (el color negro). Muchas gracias!

Lene 04.02.2020 - 21:56:

Forstår ikke start på A1/A2. Der er stjerne ved at rækken som er hæklet er fastmasker, men rækken er jo stangmasker? Så kan jeg ikke gennemskue at komme i gang med diagrammet..

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 11:06:

Hej Lene, stjernen betyder at rækken allerede er hæklet, du starter ved pilen som også er en række med fastmasker. God fornøjelse!

Line 05.01.2020 - 23:11:

Fuldstændig fed trøje, som er meget nem at hækle. Den tog kun en lille uge til det færdige resultat var færdige. Passer perfekt i str. M

Katie 03.01.2020 - 20:37:

Klopt het dat de pas niet over je hoofd past in het begin? Ik maak een maat S met haaknaald nr. 6 en haak dus 58 lossen, maar deze ketting past niet over mijn hoofd als ik er een cirkel van maak. Komt dit vanzelf goed?

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:17:

Dag Katie,

De cirkel moet wel over je hoofd passen, als dat niet het geval is, dan moet je de cirkel even overnieuw haken, waarbij je de lossen wat losser haakt. (Zie ook onder 'LOSSE' bij instructies voor het patroon.)

Nona Soft 22.12.2019 - 17:40:

Please I Don\'t understand how to work with this diagram can you help me to understand the diagram please

DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 17:52:

Dear Nona, here, you can find a lesson on how to read a knitting diagram here. And don't forget, you can always ask for help in person in the store where you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

Carla 24.10.2019 - 12:53:

Foutje van mij........de rel stokjes komen maar aan 1 kant..............die snap ik.

DROPS Design 29.10.2019 kl. 10:05:

Dag Carla,

Dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling, ik begrijp dat je nu verder kunt. Veel haakplezier!

Carla 24.10.2019 - 12:50:

Ik snap het nog niet helemaal. Komt er na elke toer met Rel stokjes, nou een toer vasten?? En.... komen er dan rel. stokjes zowel aan de goed- als verkeerder kant??

DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 12:00:

Dag Carla,

Ja, dat klopt, er worden steeds afwisselend toeren van vasten en toeren van stokjes gehaakt. De reliëfstokjes komen op de goede kant.

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