DROPS / 176 / 22

Apricot Cream by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern, wave pattern and round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Apricot Cream / DROPS 176-22 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern, wave pattern and round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Apricot Cream / DROPS 176-22 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern, wave pattern and round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Apricot Cream / DROPS 176-22 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern, wave pattern and round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Apricot Cream / DROPS 176-22 - Knitted jumper with lace pattern, wave pattern and round yoke in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern r-713
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-700-750 g colour 10, peach

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. See start for your size in A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease as follows before marker thread: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 1.
Decrease as follows after marker thread: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP:
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round.

INCREASE/DECREASE EVENLY:
To calculate how to increase or decrease evenly on round, use the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 272 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases or decreases to be done (e.g. 85) = 3.2. In this example increase after approx. every 3rd stitch. Increase by making 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. If decreasing knit approx. every other and 3rd. stitch together.

RIDGES (in the round):
1 RIDGE = 2 rounds. 1 round knit and 1 round purl.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up. First work the body, then the sleeves, then slip parts together and work round yoke.

BODY:
Cast on 192-208-224-248-272-296 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking stitch. Insert 2 marker threads in piece; 1 at the beginning of round and 1 after 96-104-112-124-136-148 stitches = in each side. Then continue in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP! Decrease every 4-4-5-5-5-5 cm 6 times in total = 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. When piece measures 32-34-36-36-37-36 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of each marker thread) = 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches on front/back piece. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Muskat. Work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, continue in stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 5 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 5th-4th-3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd round 10-13-16-17-18-19 times in total = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on round. When piece measures 23-23-24-22-23-19 cm, purl 1 round over all stitches and then continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 25-25-26-24-25-21 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches mid under sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 272-304-328-360-384-408 stitches. Knit 1 round while increasing 85-95-113-123-122-144 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE/DECREASE EVENLY = 357-399-441-483-506-552 stitches. Then work according to A.2 (= 17-19-21-21-22-24 repetitions in width). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 289-323-357-357-374-408 stitches on round. Knit 1 round while decreasing 97-115-133-133-134-160 stitches evenly = 192-208-224-224-240-248 stitches. Work A.3 over all stitches (= 24-26-28-28-30-31 repetitions in width). Work A.3 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in total vertically. Knit 1 round while decreasing 50-58-66-66-72-74 stitches evenly = 142-150-158-158-168-174 stitches. Work A.1 over all stitches. On next to last round in A.1 decrease 50-56-62-62-70-74 stitches evenly = 92-94-96-96-98-100 stitches. Finish A.1, then work 2 RIDGES - see explanation above, over all stitches. Cast off by knitting.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on next round knit yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together and pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Berbett 25.01.2021 - 17:30:

Bonjour, Je souhaite tricoter le modèle sans faire le diagramme A2, tricoter en jersey jusqu'au diagramme A3. Pourriez-vous m'expliquer comment faire étant donné que le diagramme A2 permet de faire 76 diminutions. Comment diminuer sur le jersey ? En vous remerciant cordialement d'avance. Pia.

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 17:50:

Bonjour Mme Berbett, dans la taille M vous devez diminuer 38 mailles a intervalles reguliers a chaque tour ou les mailles sont diminuees au diagramme A.2 (4eme et 10eme tour) tout en travaillant le point jersey au lieu du diagramme A.2. Comment repartir des diminutions à intervalles réguliers vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

country flag Joy Smith 05.04.2020 - 06:17:

Do you export yarns to Australia?

user icon DROPS Design 05.04.2020 kl. 16:58:

Helo Joy Smith! You can find stores who ship worldwide here: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=19

country flag Francesca 02.10.2019 - 20:23:

Come si lavora il penultimo giro del diagramma A3... Da dove inizio a lavorare?

user icon DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 22:47:

Buonasera Francesca, sul quel giro l'inizio viene spostato di una maglia, per cui il giro inizia sull'ultima maglia del giro precedente. Buon lavoro!

country flag Anabela Pimenta 18.09.2019 - 15:54:

Aguardo resposta a uma questão no dia 13 de Agosto

country flag Anabela Pimenta 13.08.2019 - 19:39:

Desculpe mas o modelo segundo as explicações não é tricotado de cima para baixo mas sim de baixo para cima agradeço esclarecimento obrigada

country flag Catherine Cordeiro 21.07.2019 - 21:01:

I love this pattern but have trouble following charts. Is there a fully written out pattern. Thank you for your help.

user icon DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 21:21:

Hi Catherine, unfortunately not. How to read knitting diagrams you will find HERE. Happy knitting!

country flag Brigitte 26.06.2019 - 18:56:

Vous dites pour l’empiècement de glisser les mailles au dessus des mailles rabattues du dos et du devant mais que vont devenir ces mailles rabattues et celles des manches ? faut il les relever ou faudra t’il les coudre à la fin pour les assembler ?

user icon DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Brigitte, les mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures seront assemblées aux mailles rabattues en haut de la manche avant de mettre les mailles en attente. Cette vidéo montre comment assembler ces mailles entre elles pour un raglan, mais la technique sera la même ici. Bon tricot!

country flag Herdis Krunderup 13.05.2019 - 10:46:

Efter udtagningerne på retpinden når blusen samles strikkes en vrangpind (1. p i mønster A2). Hvordan strikkes omslagene da?

user icon DROPS Design 14.05.2019 kl. 08:04:

Hei Herdis. Da strikker du kastet vridd vrang (altså du strikker i den bakre maskebuen): hent tråden så den ligger foran pinnen, før nålen inn i bakre maskebue, nedenfra og opp, snurr tråden 1 gang rundt pinnen og før pinnen ut igjen av masken. Her er en video av hvordan dette gjøres: . God fornøyelse

country flag Lisbeth Berntsen 30.04.2019 - 14:18:

Hei. Jeg strikker genseren Apricot Cream Drops 176-22 og jeg lurer på hva det betyr at rad 2 i mønster A3, sett ovenfra, begynner ett hakk inn? Mvh Lisbeth

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 14:53:

Hei Lisbeth. Strikkediagrammer leses nedenfra og opp, fra høyre mot venstre. Dette er derfor rad 11, og den begynner i høyre side. Du har helt rett i at her er det en forskyvning (1 masker mot høyre), og den strikkes slik: Når det gjenstår 1 masker på forrige omgang, begynn å strikke denne omgangen. Strikk som forklart - 1 løst av, 2 rett sammen, trekk den løse masken over (=2 masker felt), strikk 2 masker rett, 1 kast, 1 rett, 1 kast (=2 masker økt), 2 rett. Gjenta dette ut omgangen. Når du har strikket over alle maskene, strikk første maske 1 gang til (altså det som var siste maske på omgangen før) slik at du er tilbake der omgangen normalt starter. God fornøyelse

country flag Talea 29.03.2019 - 00:13:

Hallo, ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher nach welcher Gesamtlänge des Rumpfteil für die Ärmel bei Größe XL abgekettet werden soll - nach 62 (wie in der Skizze dargestellt) oder nach 36 wie im Text genannt? Oder sollen ab der Stelle der letzten Abnahme noch 36 cm gestrickt werden? Vielen Dank im voraus.

user icon DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 10:10:

Liebe Talea, Rumpfeil misst in der Grösse XL 36 cm, die 62 cm in der Skizze sind die gesamte Länge. Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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