DROPS / 174 / 16

Beaver Ridge by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern in Karisma and Kid-Silk. Size S- XXXL

Tags: bottom up, jumpers,
DROPS design: Pattern no u-810
Yarn group B and A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour no 21, medium grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-175-200-225-250 g colour no 10, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in pattern with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row work YOs twisted. Then work the new sts in pattern A.1.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-90-96-105-114-126 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm . P 1 row from WS. Then work rib from RS as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures 4 cm (adjust so that last row is worked from WS), switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work pattern from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.1 (= 3 sts) 26-29-31-34-37-41 times in width, K 1 (= first st in A.1), 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 15-16-15-16-15-16 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm 3 times in total = 87-96-102-111-120-132 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes = 81-90-96-105-114-126 sts on needle. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side and cast off sts for armhole at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1-3-3-3-5-7 times and 1 st 1-1-1-3-3-3 times = 75-76-82-87-88-92 sts. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, slip the middle 27-28-28-29-30-30 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, cast off 1 st = 23-23-26-28-28-30 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm. 

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece.
When piece measures 61-63-64-66-67-69 cm, slip the middle 15-16-16-17-18-18 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off for neck on every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1 time = 23-23-26-28-28-30 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm. 

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle. 
Cast on 51-54-54-57-57-60 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm . P 1 row from WS. Then work as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 1(= first st in A.1), 1 edge st in garter st. 
When piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue with pattern from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.1 until 2 st remains, K 1, 1 edge st in garter st. 
When piece measures 9-9-9-8-10-10 cm, inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 5-5-3½-3½-2½-2½ cm a total of 9-9-12-12-15-15 times = 69-72-78-81-87-90 sts – work the inc sts gradually in diagram A.1. When piece measures 53-52-51-50-49-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) cast off at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1-2-4-5-7-8 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 59 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off, the piece measures approx. 60 cm in all sizes. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew sleeves in body. Then sew underarm seam and side seam inside 1 edge st in garter st.

NECK EDGE:
Now pick up sts around the neck with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) as follows: Pick up approx. 80-90 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm around the neck - NOTE: Adjust to pick a no of sts between sts on stitch holders on front piece and back piece that fit rib (K 1/P 2) the entire round. I.e. total no of sts is divisible by 3 and over sts from stitch holders work K over K and P over P over sts in P and garter st.
Work rib = K 1/P 2 until rib measures approx. 4 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Fasten off.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 174-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Anna 17.12.2019 - 16:20:

Hi again! I just cast on 51 stitches for the sleeves and did the rib and it looks very very large. Is it possible to reduce the number of stitches? If so how? Thanks!

DROPS Design 18.12.2019 kl. 07:37:

Dear Anna, I guess you already checked your tension before - before adjusting the number of stitches in the round; remember that rib will tighten piece in width - but feel free to adjust to the desired measurements, please contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance, we are unfortunately not able to work every pattern out to every single request. Happy knitting!

Mary-Lou McColl 01.12.2019 - 23:33:

Why does this pattern mentions to use a circular needle when it can be done on 'regular' needles ?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 07:26:

Hi Mary-Lou, We suggest using circular needles because of the number of stitches in each piece. Happy knitting!

Mary-Lou McColl 01.12.2019 - 23:31:

Why does it say to use a circular needle when it can be done on 'regular' knitting needles.

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 10:23:

Dear Mrs Mc Coll, each piece is worked back and forth on circular needle to get enough room for all stitches - only collar will be here worked in the round. Happy knitting!

Anna 06.11.2019 - 14:14:

Hi! I started your beautiful pattern but now I'm stuck and I don't know what to do! I'm doing the back piece and I just added the increase. My understanding is that I need to add the new stitches after/before the garter stitch edge on both sides. It's mentioned to work the new stitch in the A1 pattern if I do so everything will be change by 1 stitch and the pattern wont look the same at all.... I have 5 stitches ( 1st one is the garter stitch) before the row that is all K. Thanks!

DROPS Design 06.11.2019 kl. 16:40:

Dear Anna, you should work the new stitches as if the pattern would continue, ie after the first edge stitch, the new stitch will be worked as the last st in A.1, then next increase as the 2nd st in A.1 and 3rd inc as the 1st st in A.1. Before edge stitch, work new stitches as a new repeat in width: 1st inc is worked as 2nd st in A.1, 2nd inc as 3rd st in A.1, 3rd inc as 1st st in A.1 and so on. Happy knitting!

Chantal Martineau 23.08.2019 - 02:53:

Peux-t-on faire ce modèle avec la laine karisma seulement?

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 09:23:

Bonjour Mme Martineau, il vous faut ici utiliser les 2 fils, Karisma et Kid-Silk, si vous utilisez Karisma uniquement, vous n'aurez pas la bonne tension et donc pas les bonnes mesures. Bon tricot!

Lydia 17.08.2019 - 11:51:

Hallo, kann ich den Pullover auch nur in Karisma stricken¿

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 12:19:

Liebe Lydia, hier sollen Sie mit beiden Garne = 1 Faden Karisma + 1 Faden Kid-Silk stricken, mit nur Karisma wird die Maschenproben nicht stimmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mirjam 16.05.2019 - 17:43:

Hallo, was ich nicht ganz verstehe ist das Muster A1. Am Ende der Hinrunde bleiben 2 Maschen übrig die eine wird rechts gestrickt die andere ist die Randmasche. Wie wird die die Rechte dann in der Rückrunde gestrickt? Danke für die Antwort Liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 17.05.2019 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Mirjam, am Ende der Hinreihe stricken Sie die vorletzte Masche wie die 1. Masche in A.1, und enden Sie mit der Randmaschen - so wird das Muster symetrisch. Bein Rückreihen stricken Sie die 1. Masche A.1 (= links bei Rückreihen), dann lesen Sie A.1 links nach rechts (= 2 M rechts, 1 M li). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Julie K 29.03.2019 - 06:41:

Hi I am having problems with the A.1 pattern I did as you suggested to a previous person “ KPK on right side and KKP on wrong side but the knit line isn’t lining up. I’ve tried everything I’m desperate. Please help

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 10:14:

Dear Julie K, from RS you are working A.1 (= K,P,K) and finishing with the first stitch in A.1 (= K) - from WS, you will work the first st in A.1 (= P on row 2), then work the sts in A.1 rerading from the left towards the right = K,K,P. this explains here how to read a diagram. Happy knitting!

Mijo Pappas 30.01.2019 - 18:20:

Let me clarify my question. 1. When I do my gauge swatch, am I doing it in rib or stockinette? 2. After I do my gauge swatch holding the two yarns together, whether in stockinette or rib, how many stitches per inch and rows per inch should I achieve? Thank you in advance! Looking forward to your answer. Cheers, Mijo Pappas

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 07:53:

Dear Mrs Pappas, you should have 18 sts x 24 rows in pattern (see diagram A.1) with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' with larger needles (= size 5.5 mm) and 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' with smaller needles (= size 4,5 mm). Happy knitting!

Mijo Pappas 23.01.2019 - 18:53:

What is the gauge I should base the project on? I looked up the yarns for a gauge, but I do not see the gauge for the two yarns held together. Thanks in advance!

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 09:41:

Dear Mrs Pappas, you will find the gauge for the both needle sizes under the header, just below the list of required yarns for each size. Happy knitting!

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