DROPS / 174 / 3

Keystone by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with raglan in Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-803
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour no 21, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour no 17, navy blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
From RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. 

If knitting tension is incorrect in height and the knitting is too tight, the raglan dec will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra round without dec evenly spaced between dec.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Cast on 220-240-264-288-312-344 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with medium grey. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and K next round – AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-40-44-48-52-56 sts evenly = 184-200-220-240-260-288 sts. Continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Insert 1 marker in each side = 92-100-110-120-130-144 sts between markers. When piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 inc). Inc every 10 cm a total of 4 times = 200-216-236-256-276-304 sts. When piece measures 40-40-41-41-41-41 cm, cast off 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts on each side of every marker (= 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts in each side) = 92-100-108-118-126-140 sts on front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. 
Cast on 60-60-64-68-72-72 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with medium grey. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and K next round – AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-8-10-12-14-12 sts evenly = 50-52-54-56-58-60 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 7-8-8-10-10-10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 3-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 13-16-17-18-19-20 times in total = 76-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 46-45-44-43-42-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts on each side of marker (= 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts cast off mid under sleeve) = 68-76-78-82-84-88 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. 

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 320-352-372-400-420-456 sts. Continue in stocking st, now beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above and READ KNITTING TIP. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). 1st marker = in transition between left sleeve and front piece. 
Dec differently on body and on sleeves.
Dec as follows after 2nd and 4th marker and before 3rd and 1st marker (= dec on sleeves)
Dec every 4 rounds: 10-10-10-11-12-14 times and then every other round: 12-15-16-16-16-14 times.
Dec as follows after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker (= dec on front and back piece): Dec every 4 round: 8-8-6-4-3-0 times, every other round 16-19-24-30-34-39 times, then every round: 0-0-0-0-0-4 times. 

After all dec for raglan 136-144-148-156-160-172 sts remain on round. Work 1 round while at the same time dec 36-36-36-40-40-44 sts evenly = 100-108-112-116-120-128 sts. Switch to navy blue and work 2 ridges in GARTER ST over all sts - see explanation above. Cast off with K.

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 174-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (78)

Anni 23.02.2021 - 20:17:

Tuleeko paidan kainalokohta isossa koossa kovin alas, kun hiha on kovin lyhyt? Valokuvassa ei valitettavasti tuota näy ja mitat ovat hieman hämmentäviä.

Liane 13.02.2021 - 22:30:

Verstehe ich die Anleitung richtig, dass ich vor bzw. nach den 4 Markieretn zwischen den Rumpf- und Ärmelteilen zusätzlich vier weitere Markierungen setzen muss um den besagten Rhythmus zu erreichen?

DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 08:42:

Liebe Liane, es sind insgesamt nur 4 Markierer für die Raglanabnahmen, und es wird entweder 8 Maschen (= Rumpfteil + Ärmel) abgenommen oder nur 4 Maschen (= je nach der Größe z.B. nur beim Rumpfteil in jeder 2. Runde wenn es immer noch in jeder 4. Runde bei den Ärmeln abgenommen werden soll). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christian 04.02.2021 - 16:12:

Hallo nochmal, auch dank Eurer Hilfe hab ichs jetzt verstanden mit der Passe, ein Frage hab trotzdem ich noch. Ich fange mit den Garland abnahmen in der 1. Runde an oder stricke erst 3 Runden ohne abzunehmen? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 07:48:

Liebe Christian, die Raglanabnahmen arbeiten Sie ab 1. Runde der Passe (= 8 Abnahmen), und dann stricken Sie 3 Runde ohne abzunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nell 04.02.2021 - 01:59:

Hi, I am having trouble understanding the yoke part. Are the decreases different than the raglan? If so, do I do the raglan decrease every row? and then where should the decreases come from? Also, is the raglan worked the same way across each stitch marker- from sleeve to body and body to sleeve front and back? thank you!

DROPS Design 04.02.2021 kl. 09:34:

Dear Nell, you will decrease on a different rythm on body and on sleeves - depending on the size. Let's take size S: you will decrease first on sleeves 10 times on every 4th round while only 8 times on every 4th round on body. This means these first 8 times you will decrease 8 sts but then you will decrease on body on every other round (= 4 stitches dec/dec round) and continue dec on sleeves on every 4th round (= 8 sts dec/ per dec round). Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

Christian 28.01.2021 - 18:34:

Hallo Ich verstehe die Anleitung zur Passe ganz und gar nicht. Wie komme ich auf die abzunehmenden Maschen wenn ich nach Anleitung "Raglanabnahmen" stricke? Wie oft muß ich in jeder 4. Runde abnehmen , wie oft in jeder 2? Sind nur 2 Fragen die ich habe. Könnt Ihr versuchen mir zu helfen? dankbare Grüße Christian

DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 07:47:

Lieber Christian, die Raglanabnahmen werden unterschiedlich beim Rumfpteil und bei den Ärmeln (und je nach der Größe), dh Sie werden entweder 8 Maschen (= Ärmel, Vorder- und Rückenteil) oder nur 4 Maschen (=z.B. Rumpfteil wenn man in jeder 2. Reihe abnehmen muss und immer noch in jeder 4. Reihe bei den Ärmeln abnimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Martti 26.01.2021 - 17:02:

En ymmärrä raglan kavennusta. Ohjeessa sanotaa, että kavennus tulee tehdä ennen ja jälkeen merkkilangan. Erillisessä raglan kavennus ohjeessa sanotaan taas, että aloitetaan 3s ennen merkkilankaa (Aloita 3 s:n päässä merkkilangasta: 2 s oikein yhteen, 2 o (merkki on näiden 2 s:n keskellä), nosta 1 s neulomatta, 1 s oikein, vedä nostettu s neulotun yli.) ja merkkilanka jää keskelle. Mitä tarkoittaa, että tehdään jälkeen merkkilangan?

Pernilla Gréen 21.01.2021 - 21:16:

Vill prova denna modell, men med polokrage som inte är för lös runt hals. Ska man minska ytterligare och sedan bara sticka rakt upp, eller?

DROPS Design 27.01.2021 kl. 15:05:

Hej Pernilla, ja du kan minska några maskor till, men när du byter sticka till ett nr mindre och stickar resår, vill halsen bli mindre. Lycka till :)

Päivi 14.01.2021 - 13:05:

Ihmettelen mallin mittoja. Aiemman kommentin perusteella kuvan henkilöllä on M koon paita. Henkilö näyttää aika hoikalta ja paita istuu hyvin, mutta mallin mittojen mukaan paita olisi kuitenkin hyvin leveä ja lyhyt. Esim. hihat todella lyhyet (L koossa kainalosta hihansuuhun ainoastaan 44 cm?!) Onko paidan mitoitus normaali verrattuna muihin malleihin?

Eva Emilia Thea Vogelius 23.11.2020 - 10:31:

Hvordan skal jeg forstås at der tages forskelligt ind på for/ bag stykke og ærmer.? Kan se, at det er hver anden omg for; for/ bag stk og hver 4 omg på ærmer.. MEN hvordan strikkes raglanindtagningerne på ærmerne ? Hvis jeg følger anvisningen for raglanindtag kan det ikke undgåes at der samtidig også bliver indtag på for/ bag stk. Og det samme gør sig gældende på for/bag stk indtagningerne.

DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 14:28:

Hei Eva. Når det felles samtidig, altså både til for/bakstykket og ermene felles det 8 masker pr omgang. Når det felles kun til for/bakstykket felles det 4 masker pr omgang. Slik felles det: Start 3 masker før merketråden: 2 rett sammen, 2 rett (merket sitter midt mellom disse 2 maskene), ta 1 maske løs av pinnen, 1 m rett, løft den løse masken over. mvh DROPS design

Michele Fabbri 10.11.2020 - 13:37:

Che significa diminuire prima o dopo il segnapunti? Nella spiegazione iniziale dice che il segnapunti è in mezzo alla diminuzione

DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 22:27:

Buonasera Michele, deve seguire le istruzioni indicate diminuendo prima o dopo i segnapunti indicati. Per la lavorazione delle diminuzioni fare riferimento al suggerimento all'inizio del modello, seguendo le istruzioni per le diminuzioni prima o dopo il segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

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