DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Twin River

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 174-14
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-236

Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 24 rows in pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K the next 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

INCREASE TIP (BODY):
Inc 4 sts on round as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc in the other side of piece.
On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the new sts in garter st.

INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE):
Inc as follows mid under sleeve:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts gradually in the pattern. NOTE: Work sts on each side of marker in garter st.

RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after A.2: K 3 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 3 sts remain before A.2, K 3 tog.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 150-162-168-192-210-234 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 5 mm. * P 1, (K 1, P 2), repeat from (-) 23-25-26-30-33-37 more times, K 1, P 1, insert a marker here (= side) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. NOTE: Move the markers upwards when working. Continue rib in the round like this until piece measures 4 cm. Now work pattern A.1 as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, then repeat A.1 the entire round until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker – see INCREASE TIP (BODY). Repeat inc when piece measures 27-28-29-29-30-30 cm = 158-170-176-200-218-242 sts. When piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm (adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1), cast off sts for armholes as follows: Cast off the first 5 sts on round, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the remaining 5 sts. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts with Nepal on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work rib as follows: P 1, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains on round, P 1. Continue like this in the round until rib measures 4 cm. Now work pattern as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, A.1 until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. When piece measures 9-8-7-6-10-9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE). Inc like this approx. every 13th-9th-7th-7th-6th-5th round 8-11-14-14-14-17 times in total = 58-64-70-76-76-82 sts. When piece measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm - adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1, cast off the middle 10 sts under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 48-54-60-66-66-72 sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 234-258-276-312-330-366 sts. This is done without working the sts. Insert a marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Beg round on back piece, 4 sts after marker between sleeve and back piece.
Now continue pattern as before and work in addition A.2 (= 8 sts) in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.2). On next round start dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves as follows:
RAGLAN BODY:
Dec every other round 21-24-24-24-26-26 times and then every round 0-0-0-6-7-13 times (= 21-24-24-30-33-39 times in total).
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Dec every 4th round 6-6-4-3-5-5 times and then every other round 9-12-17-21-19-22 times (= 15-18-21-24-24-27 times in total).

When all dec are done, 90-90-96-96-102-102 sts remain on round (= 144-168-180-216-228-264 sts in total dec).

Now work pattern as before over the first 72-72-78-78-84-84 sts. Insert marker here (= between A.2 and right sleeve). Then work an elevation back and forth in neck in pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan on every row from RS over the sts worked – READ RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION) as follows: NOTE: Tighten yarn at every turn to avoid holes.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 55-55-58-58-61-61 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 45-45-48-48-51-51 sts,
ROW 3: Turn and work 43-43-46-46-49-49 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 4: Turn and work 33-33-36-36-39-39 sts.
There are now 74-74-80-80-86-86 sts on round.
Turn and continue in the round with rib as follows: Work K over K and P over sts in garter st until rib measures 4 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Jumper measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm from cast-on edge and up to shoulder. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (197)

country flag Barbara wrote:

Riporto le maglie delle maniche su stesso ferro senza lavorare, inserendo dove ci sono gli scalfi. Io ho scalato 5 punti a inizio ferro, 10 centrali ( seconda manica ) e 5 a fine ferro. I punti di una manica li trasferisco dove ci sono le 10 maglie scalate ( in mezzo al ferro) e l’altra manica? All’ inizio o alla fine? E nel ferro dove inizio a lavorare , tutto a diritto le maglie, passo 4 maglie senza lavorare ad ogni scalfo( cioè due volte) o devo saltarle?

03.01.2023 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara, deve inserire le maglie delle maniche dove sono state diminuite le maglie per gli scalfi e inserire anche dei segnapunti nei punti di passaggio tra le maniche e il corpo. Il giro inizia 4 maglie dopo il segnapunti sul dietro. Buon lavoro!

05.01.2023 - 22:54

country flag Barbara wrote:

Ho bisogno di aiuto per avvio dello sprone. Se trasferisco le maglie delle maniche sullo stesso ferro, senza lavorarle, nel ferro successivo dovrò saltare 4 maglie ad ogni segno tra manica e dietro? Ma dove ho scalato le dieci maglie avrò un filo volante ? Non capisco…. Le spiegazioni per avvio dello sprone!

02.01.2023 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara, in quel punto deve riportare tutte le maglie sullo stesso ferro. Buon lavoro!

02.01.2023 - 21:30

country flag Cristina Zannier wrote:

Ora ho capito: nel mio caso, una M, nel FERRO 1 lavoro le 55 maglie e faccio le 8 diminuzioni, ne rimangono 47. Nel FERRO 2 lavoro 45 maglie passando quindi la prima e l'ultima maglia sul ferro senza lavorarle. Nel FERRO 3 lavoro 43 maglie passando sempre la prima e l'ultima senza lavorarle e diminuendo 8 maglie. Nel FERRO 4 lavoro 33 maglie passando sempre la prima e l'ultima. Quindi alla fine dalle 55 maglie iniziali ne risultano 55-8-8=39, tra cui 33 sono lavorate e 6 passate.

11.12.2022 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, nel primo ferro lavora 55 maglie, che diventano 47 con le diminuzioni, poi deve girare il lavoro e lavorare subito le prime 45 maglie e poi girare il lavoro e proseguire come indicato. Buon lavoro!

11.12.2022 - 22:10

country flag Cristina Zannier wrote:

Domanda sull'alzata dello scollo: FERRO 1 dritto: lavorare 55 m comprese le 8 da diminuire (ok) FERRO 2 rovescio: lavorare 45 m (ma 55-8=47, non capisco) FERRO 3 dritto: lavorare 43 m comprese le 8 da calare (ma non erano 45 prima? E non rimangono 45 dato che sul rovescio non si diminuisce? ) FERRO 4 rovescio: lavorare 33 m (come sopra, non capisco le diminuzioni 43-8= 25) Non capisco, vi chiedo un aiuto. Grazie

11.12.2022 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, in quel punto si lavora a ferri accorciati, quindi non si lavora su tutte le maglie sui ferri ma solo sul numero di maglie indicato via via nel modello. Buon lavoro!

11.12.2022 - 22:08

country flag Cristina Zannier wrote:

Buongiorno, non riesco a capire quando calare nella parte finale dell'alzata del collo. All'inizio e alla fine delle 55 maglie da lavorare avanti e indietro? Non capisco come distribuire queste 8 maglie da diminuire, non mi tornano i conti, perché considerando il diagramma A.2 sarebbero 6 i punti in cui fare le diminuzioni (all'inizio e alla fine delle 55maglie e prima e dopo i due segni messi in precedenza per segnare il centro di A.2). Non ne vengo fuori, aiuto.

11.12.2022 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, deve diminuire le 8 maglie come riportato nel paragrafo "RAGLAN". Buon lavoro!

11.12.2022 - 22:07

country flag Barbara wrote:

Lavoro con ferro circolare. Seguo istruzioni per Primo aumento davanti/dietro : va effettuato prima del segnapunti , come indicato e il secondo ( sull’altro lato del lavoro) subito dopo o alla fine del giro? Se subito dopo, mi trovo con due gettate successive : è corretto?

14.11.2022 - 07:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara, deve lavorare gli aumenti come indicato nel paragrafo "SUGGERIMENTO PER GLI AUMENTI (sul davanti e dietro)": ci saranno 2 maglie legaccio tra 2 gettati ad ogni aumento. Buon lavoro!

15.11.2022 - 22:09

country flag Kerrin wrote:

Hallo :) ich habe auch eine frage zu den raglanabnahmen/der längeren hinteren halsblende: ich habe (größe xl) jetzt 96 maschen auf der nadel. wenn ich jetzt die weiteren 78 maschen stricke, bis ich den neuen markierer setzen muss, werden dann in dieser runde auch wieder die raglanabnahmen mitgestrickt? also starte ich die erste runde direkt weiterhin mit einer abnahme? oder stricke ich tatsächlich 78 maschen ohne abzunehmen? danke und liebe grüße :)

24.10.2022 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerrin, bei dieser Reihe nehmen Sie nicht ab, es wird erst bei der 1. Reihe, und bei der 3. Reihe (= bei jeder Hinreihe) abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.10.2022 - 09:13

country flag Cristina Zannier wrote:

Buongiorno, ho iniziato a fare il maglione taglia m, quindi ho iniziato con i ferri circolari con 162 maglie, poi ho fatto il primo giro ma seguendo lo schema i rimangono maglie non lavorate perché da quel che ho capito il primo giro è così: 1m rov + (1m dir, 2m rov) x 25, 1m dir, 1m rov. Tutto questo x 2 = 156 maglie. E cosa faccio con le rimanenti 6 maglie?

15.10.2022 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, la parte tra parentesi si deve lavorare altre 25 volte come indicato, cioè per un totale di 26 volte. Buon lavoro!

15.10.2022 - 12:41

country flag Karen Bo Frydendall wrote:

Hej, jeg forstår ikke rigtigt, hvordan strikkefastheden i dette mønster - en rib - kan være det samme, som den glatstrikkede strikkefasthed, der angives på banderolen. Jeg har nu forsøgt mig med både p 5,5 og p 6, men jeg kan ikke komme ned på 17 m i bredden uden at strække min strikkeprøve. Det samme gælder for så vidt i højden, men den kan man jo som regel strikke sig ud af med noget ekstra garn ( selvom det er irriterende ikkeat kunne ramme det rigtige antal)

10.10.2022 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karen, strikker du med DROPS Nepal, da skal det ikke være et problem at få 17 masker på 10 cm på pind 5,5 eller 6 :)

11.10.2022 - 15:50

country flag Karen Bo Frydendall wrote:

Hej, jeg har lige downloadet opskriften på dansk, men diagrammerne mangler !!!

04.10.2022 - 19:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karen, jo det ligger der, husk at skrive ud ved at klikke på "skriv ud" knappen som ligger lige efter materialer :)

07.10.2022 - 15:25