DROPS Extra / 0-1326

Winter Skies Tunic by DROPS Design

Crochet tunic in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca with lace pattern and stripes, worked top down. Size S-XXXL.

  • Winter Skies Tunic / DROPS Extra 0-1326 - Crochet tunic in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca with lace pattern and stripes, worked top down. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no z-769
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g color no 100, off white
300-350-350-400 g color no 9020, light pearl gray
200-200-200-250 g color no 501, light gray
150-150-150-200 g, color no 517, medium gray
NOTE: Garment worked in one color = 700-750-850-900 g with 2 strands Alpaca.

DROPS Hook size 6 mm / J/10 - or size needed to get 12 dc x 7 rows with 2 strands Alpaca = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 8 cm / 3 1/8'' and the last 4 rows in A.3 = approx. 4.5 cm / 1 3/4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 74.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – see diagram for correct size.

STRIPES:
Work all stripes with 2 strands.
1st repetition vertically = the last 4 rows in diagram. 1st-5th stripe are 3 repetitions, work 6th stripe until finished measurements.
Stripe 1: 1 strand off white + 1 strand light pearl gray.
Stripe 2: 2 strands light pearl gray.
Stripe 3: 1 strand light pearl gray + 1 strand light gray.
Stripe 4: 2 strands light gray.
Stripe 5: 1 strand light gray + 1 strand medium gray.
Stripe 6: 2 strands medium gray.
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TUNIC:
Work back and forth, top down in 2 parts, sew tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Work 48-53-59-63 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl gray (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm / J/10. Cut the yarn and work left shoulder.
Left shoulder:
Work 50-55-61-65 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl gray (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm / J/10. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 4-2-1-5 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 dc. Work 18 ch (= first row in A.5), work 1 dc in st 1st ch on the loose ch-row (= right shoulder), work 1 dc in each of the next 5-3-2-6 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 dc for each shoulder. Turn and work STRIPES - see explanation above, and PATTERN from RS as follows - beg on 2nd row in diagram: Work A.1a – see diagram for correct size (= 1 st), A.2 (= 5 dc) 1-0-1-0 times in width, repeat A.3 (= 9 dc) over the next 36-45-45-54 dc, A.5 over the 18 ch for neck, repeat A.3 over the next 36-45-45-54 dc, A.4 1-0-1-0 times, A.1a. Work 1 row in pattern (= 3rd row). Continue pattern like this but now work from 4th row in diagram A.3 over A.5 (neck), i.e. work 10-12-12-14 repetitions of A.3 in total in width. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When diagram A.1 to A.4 have been worked, repeat the last 4 rows in diagram vertically. When 2nd stripe has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11''. Last row worked must be last row in diagram. Cut the yarn.
Now continue from 3rd stripe and leave out repetitions in each side to dec after sleeves in the different sizes as explained below - beg from WS:

S/M - XXL:
NOTE: Beg working from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, A.4, 1 repetition A.3 and first ch-space in next repetition of A.3 for dec after sleeve. Beg in next ch-space (= 3 ch) and work A.1a, work A.4, A.3 6-8 times in total in width, A.2, A.1a. NOTE: The same pattern now remain at the end of row that were skipped at beg of row.

L/XL - XXXL:
NOTE: Beg working from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, 1 repetition of A.3 and skip the next 2 ch-spaces in next repetition of A.3 for dec after sleeve. Beg in next ch-space (= last ch-space in A.3) and work A.1a, work A.3 8-10 times in total in width, work A.1a in next ch-space. NOTE: The same pattern now remain at the end of row that were skipped at beg of row.

Continue to repeat the last 4 rows in diagram until 5th stripe has been worked vertically. Work 6th stripe until piece measures 82-84-87-89 cm / 32 1/4"-33"-34 1/4"-35" from shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Work 51-56-62-66 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl gray (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm / J/10. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5-3-2-6 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 43-47-52-56 dc. Turn and work stripes and pattern from RS as follows - beg on 2nd row in diagram: Work A.1c (= 1 st), repeat A.3 over the next 36-45-45-54 dc, A.2 (= 5 dc) 1-0-1-0 times in width, work A.1a - see diagram for correct size. Continue like this back and forth until 4th row in diagram has been worked vertically. Cut the yarn and work right shoulder.
Right shoulder:
Work 51-56-62-66 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl gray (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm / J/10. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 5-3-2-6 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 43-47-52-56 dc. Turn and work stripes and pattern from RS as follows - beg on 2nd row in diagram: Work A.1a – see diagram for correct size (= 1 st), A.2 (= 5 dc) 1-0-1-0 times in width, A.3 (= 9 dc) over the next 36-45-45-54 dc, work A.1c (= 1 st). Continue like this back and forth until 5th row in diagram has been worked vertically – but on 5th row skip A.1c, work first row in A.5 (i.e. 18 loose ch for neck), then continue with left shoulder as follows: skip A.1c, work 5th row in diagram over the remaining sts on row. Work last row in diagram. Then repeat the last 4 rows in diagram vertically - over A.5 work A.3 2 times in width, i.e. there are 10-12-12-14 repetitions A.3 in width. Continue with stripes and pattern, dec after sleeves as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Place shoulders on back piece and front piece towards each other and sew shoulder seams with 1 strand off white by sewing one and one st tog.
Sew underarm seams and side seams in one with 1 strand light gray, sew outer loops of edge sts in one and one st until 26 cm / 10 1/4'' remain for vents at the bottom in each side.
Crochet an edge around the sleeves as follows: Beg mid under sleeve and work with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl gray (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm / J/10 as follows: * Work 1 sc, ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round. Work the same way around the other sleeve.
Crochet an edge around the neck as follows:
Beg mid on top of one shoulder and work tog the same way as around sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc in st
symbols = 1 sc around ch-space
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more in same dc, but on last pull through, pull through all loops on hook.
symbols = Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc around the middle ch in dc-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all loops on hook.
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = Work a dc-group around ch-space as follows: Work * 1 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 dc around same ch-space.
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1326) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Joanne 09.09.2020 - 16:13:

Is it possible to obtain this pattern in writing and not a chart? I struggle to read charts. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 09.09.2020 kl. 16:27:

Dear Joanne, there are only diagrams to this pattern, but you will find how to read crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Carolina 28.02.2018 - 19:39:

Hola, soy Carolina Fresno de Chile, me gustaría saber si venden sus lanas acá en mi país? Y perdonen pero si alguien me puede ayudar para aprender a leer sus patrones, la verdad es q estoy empezando y lo único q quiero es aprender. Muchas gracias

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2018 kl. 20:27:

Hola Carolina. En Chile no hay tiendas de Drops, bajo esté línk puedes encontrar las tiendas que tienen envíos internacionales.: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23

country flag Britt 14.07.2017 - 14:30:

Hej vil lige høre om i har fundet ud af mit spørgsmål? Vh Britt

user icon DROPS Design 08.08.2017 kl. 08:21:

Hej Britt, jo men det skal passe, du hækler 18 lm imellem stykkerne og mønsteret går over 9 masker, så du skal hækle de to stykker som tidligere, plus 2 gange over de nye masker. God fornøjelse!

country flag Britt 14.06.2017 - 09:42:

Hej Jeg er kommet til forstyk hvor jeg hækler venstre og højreskulder sammen med 18 lm jeg laver str. xxl, der kan jeg ikke få det til at passe sammen med mønsteret.

country flag Britt 12.06.2017 - 14:12:

Jeg kan ikke få mønsteret til at passe på forstykket. Jeg har lavet ryggen. Kan der være en fejl i maske antallet? Vh Britt

user icon DROPS Design 13.06.2017 kl. 13:55:

Hej Britt, Kan du beskrive hvor du er i opskriften. Hvilken størrelse du hækler og hvor mange masker du har, så skal vi se på det.

Britt 12.06.2017 - 09:56:

Jeg har lavet ryggen på denne, og er nu gået til skulder på forstykket. Jeg kan ikke få mønsteret til at passe. Er der muligvis en fejl i mønsteret? britt

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