DROPS / 173 / 39

Millicent by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest with cable border in waist and shawl collar in “Puna”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no pu-002
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 06, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS UNEVEN BUTTON, NO 534: 3 pieces in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 1.75 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 1.75 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 3 buttonholes as follows: K 3, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 13-15, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 13-15, 1 YO, K 2 tog and K 3. On next round K the YOs to make holes.

INCREASE TIP -1 (applies to even distribution):
To calculate how to inc evenly, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 122 sts), minus bands (e.g. 12 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 54) = 2.04. I.e. in this example inc after approx. every 2nd st and do not inc over bands. NOTE: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides on bottom part of body):
Work until 3 sts remain before marker, make 1 YO, K 6 (marker is in the middle of these 6 sts), make 1 YO. On next row work YOs twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline):
Dec inside 6 band sts in garter st + inc sts for shawl collar. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after band + collar: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before band + collar: Beg 2 sts before band + collar and K 2 tog.
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VEST:
Beg with cable border as explained below. Pick up sts along one long side of border for yoke and along the other long side of border at the bottom part of body.

CABLE BORDER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 38-38-38-42-42-42 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Puna. Work 6 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= band). Insert 1 marker, switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work pattern back and forth according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size). When A.1 has been worked, there are 46-46-46-50-50-50 sts on needle. Now work pattern back and forth according to A.2 – choose diagram for correct size. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures approx. 78-86-94-104-116-128 cm from marker (adjust after one whole repetition vertically so that pattern beg and end the same way in each side towards mid front – try the border on and work to desired length – approx. 3 cm remains until full lenght), work pattern back and forth according to diagram A.3. When A.3 has been worked, there are 38-38-38-42-42-42 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 row from RS while dec for 3 BUTTONHOLES - see-explanation above. K 1 row from WS, work 5 ridges and cast off with K from RS.

UPPER BODY:
Pick up sts from RS along one long side on cable border (beg from the side with buttonholes) on circular needle size 4 mm as follows: Pick up 1 st in each of the 6 ridges on band, pick up 1 st in every ridge along edge and finally 1 st in every ridge along band in the other side = approx. 122-132-144-158-174-192 sts. On next row (= WS) K while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 176-192-208-232-256-280 sts - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Insert 2 markers in the piece after 47-51-55-61-67-73 sts in from each side = 82-90-98-110-122-134 sts between markers on back piece - move the markers upwards when working. Now measure piece from where sts were picked up. Work in stocking st with 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front – AT THE SAME TIME work in garter st over 12-14-16-18-20-22 sts in each side on front and back piece (i.e. over 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts on each side of both markers). When 2 ridges have been worked over these sts, work next row as follows from RS: K 45-48-51-56-61-66 sts (= right front piece), cast off the next 4-6-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole (i.e. cast off 2-3-4-5-6-7 sts on each side of marker), K the next 78-84-90-100-110-120 sts (= back piece), cast off the next 4-6-8-10-12-14 sts for armhole and K the remaining 45-48-51-56-61-66 sts (= left front piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-84-90-100-110-120 sts. Continue back and forth in stocking st with 4 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 5-5-5-8-8-8 cm from cable border, inc 1 st inside 4 edge sts in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 sts inc - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st). Inc like this every 5-5-5-8-8-8 cm 4-4-4-3-3-3 times in total = 86-92-98-106-116-126 sts. When piece measures 22-24-26-26-27-28 cm, slip sts on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder at beg of every row in each side as follows: * Work 8-9-9-10-11-12 sts, slip them on stitch holder and work the rest of row *, work from *-* 3 times in total in each side and then slip 10-10-12-12-13-15 sts 1 time in each side on stitch holder the same way.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-25-27-27-28-29 cm, cast off the middle 14-14-16-18-20-20 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 st on next row from neck. When all sts have been cast off/slipped on stitch holder, piece measures approx. 43-45-47-49-50-51 cm (measured from the top of shoulder incl cable border).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 45-48-51-56-61-66 sts. Continue back and forth with 6 band sts in garter st towards mid front, stocking st and 4 edge sts in garter st towards armhole.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
SHAWL COLLAR:
When piece measures 2 cm from cable border, inc 1 st on next row from WS inside last st on needle – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (work inc st in garter st). Work 1 ridge back and forth only over the outermost 7 sts towards mid front (i.e. beg from RS, K 7, turn, tighten yarn and K 7). Then work back and forth over all sts again AT THE SAME TIME inc for shawl collar the same way inside outermost band st as follows: Inc 1 st every other row 5-5-4-4-5-5 times in total and then every 4th row 10-10-13-13-14-14 times in total = 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts inc for shawl collar (work the inc sts in garter st).
NECK LINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm from cable border, dec 1 st for neck line - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 4th row 3 times in total in all sizes and then every 6th row 6-6-7-8-9-9 times in total.
INCREASE AT ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-5-5-8-8-8 cm, inc 1 st inside 4 edge sts in the side - read INCREASE TIP-2. Inc like this every 5-5-5-8-8-8 cm 4-4-4-3-3-3 times in total (work the inc sts in stocking st).
DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 22-24-26-26-27-28 cm, slip sts on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder at beg of every row from armhole as follows: * Work 8-9-9-10-11-12 sts, slip them on a stitch holder, work the rest of row, turn piece and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total and then slip 10-10-12-12-13-15 sts 1 time on stitch holder.
After all inc, dec and sts have been slipped on a stitch holder there are 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts on needle for collar and piece measures approx. 43-45-47-49-50-51 cm (measured from the top of shoulder incl cable border).

COLLAR:
= 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts. Beg from RS and work in garter st back and forth as follows: * Work 1 ridge over all sts, work 1 ridge over only the outermost 14-14-16-16-18-18 sts towards mid front *, work from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm inside on the most narrow part (it will measure approx. 14-14-14-14-16-16 cm at the edge on the widest), cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 45-48-51-56-61-66 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. when first st inc for collar, this is done from RS and when working 1 ridge over only the outermost 7 sts, work first row from WS. When left front piece has been worked, work collar as on right front piece but beg from WS.

EDGE IN GARTER ST ON SHOULDER:
Slip the 34-37-39-42-46-51 sts from stitch holder on one shoulder on circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 row from WS (to avoid holes in transitions where sts were slipped on stitch holder put strand between 2 sts on needle and K twisted tog with first st on left needle). Then LOOSELY cast off with K from RS - it is important that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Work edge in garter st on the other 3 shoulders the same way.

BOTTOM PART OF BODY:
Pick up sts from RS along the other long side on cable border (beg from the side without buttonholes) on circular needle size 4 mm as follows: Pick up 1 st in each of the 6 ridges on band, pick up 1 st in every ridge along edge and finally 1 st in every ridge along band in the other side = approx. 122-132-144-158-174-192 sts. On next row (= WS) K while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 176-192-208-232-256-280 sts - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Insert 2 markers in the piece after 47-51-55-61-67-73 sts in from each side = 82-90-98-110-122-134 sts between markers on back piece - move the markers downwards when working. Now measure piece from where sts were picked up on cable border.
Work in stocking st with 6 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 1½ cm (i.e. approx. every 4th row) 12-12-12-12-13-13 times in total in each side = 224-240-256-280-308-332 sts. When piece measures 20-20-20-20-21-22 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Beg from RS and work 6 ridges back and forth over all sts. Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm and LOOSELY cast off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge with grafting/kitchener stitches. Sew collar tog mid back (seam mid back should be inwards when collar is folded). Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
= knitting direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Anne-Maj 29.09.2018 - 08:25:

Hoi hoi, ik ben bij de kraag aangekomen (na rechterbovenlijf) en moet nu doorgaan met ribbelsteek tot het 7 cm op het korte stuk is en 14 cm op de lange kant. Ik begrijp alleen niet wat jullie met korte en lange kant bedoelen. Vanaf waar moet ik het meten? Ik hoor graag antwoord zodat ik verder kan :-) Kan namelijk niet wachten dit vest te dragen deze herfst!!

DROPS Design 30.09.2018 kl. 21:19:

Dag Anne-Maj, Omdat je afwisselend ribbels over de hele kraag breit, en over alleen de buitenste steken, zal er a.h.w. een kromming in de kraag komen en is de buitenkant van de kraag (dus aan de kant van het voorpand) langer dan de binnenkant (dus aan de kant van de schouder). Op de korte kant moet hij 7 cm zijn en in de 'buitenbocht' 14 cm.

Evaluna 19.03.2018 - 13:17:

Hallo, Ik zie een probleem bij de beschrijving van de afschuining van de schouder in de voorpanden. Ik brei maat XL en moet dus 3 keer 10 st op een hulpdraad zetten en daarna nog 12 keer 5 st. Moet dat niet nog 1 keer 12 st zijn? Die schouder is toch niet zo hoog?

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 18:19:

Hallo Evaluna, Dat was inderdaad een foutje. Het is nu aangepast en bedankt voor het doorgeven!

Margareta Wiklund 05.12.2017 - 07:45:

Är på axeln, skall sticka rätt v fr avigan. Här fastnar jag, vid # lägg tråden mellan 2 m o sticka ihop vriden med nästa m på v sticka# vilken tråd? Det blir hål ändå, Tack på förhand

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 14:11:

Du ska ta upp den vågräta tråden mellan två maskor och sticka denna tråd vriden ihop med följande maska. Då ska det inte bli hål i arb.

Margareta Wiklund 13.11.2017 - 17:19:

Gör jag det förkortade varvet i sjalkragen endast 1 gång ? Tack på förhand

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 17:57:

Du ska upprepa de förkortade varven tills kragen mäter ca 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm innerst.

Annelie Dynell 23.03.2017 - 10:18:

Hej har provat nu 5 ggr å varje gång blir allt riktigt utan slingan i mitten som skall korsas ? Den hamnar på avigsidan å allt annat mönster på framsidan ??? Hjälp 😩

DROPS Design 27.03.2017 kl. 13:03:

Hej Annelie. Du maa strikke noget forkert, fletten kommer paa retsiden i alle pinde. Desvaerre kan jeg ikke her paa afstand se hvad du gör, men maaske har du mulighed for at besöge en af vores butikker eller en strikkegruppe

Grethe Skotheim 05.03.2017 - 12:04:

Hei ! Jeg strikker en barnegenser ,str. 2 år i PUNA-garn. Nederst på bolen er det en rillekant på 2 riller. Den ruller inn ,hva gjør jeg med det når garnet ikke skal strykes? Garnet farger veldig av på fingrene når jeg strikker. Vil dette være en genser som farger av ,eller gir det seg etter en vask? Mvh Grethe

DROPS Design 06.03.2017 kl. 15:18:

Hei Grethe. Du kan presse den let naar du har vasket den förste gang, enten ved at du lader den ligge mellem to haandklaeder et par timer - eller du kan presse let med et strygejern (og et viskestykke imellem). Og tit bliver det ogsaa mindre, naar du har strikket laengere og arbejdet faar lidt mere tyngde. Der kan vaere overskudsfarve i garn, men for det meste er det ogsaa vaek efter förste vask. Husk at vaske det efter anvisningerne - og alene, saa det ikke smitter af paa noget andet :)

Izaskun 27.02.2017 - 06:40:

No termino de entender como se le da forma a los hombros en la espalda. Deslizo los puntos tejidos.Sigo hasta el otro hombro. Deslizo. Son tres veces?

DROPS Design 04.03.2017 kl. 11:57:

Hola Izaskun. En lugar de cerrar los puntos del hombro, estamos deslizando a un gancho aux. Lo has entendido correctamente. Deslizamos los puntos correspondientes tres veces a cada lado.

Fabienne Damas 15.01.2017 - 15:21:

Bonjour, je réalise ce modèle et je suis bloquée au niveau du biais des épaules. Est-il possible d'avoir des précisions. Merci.

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 10:16:

Bonjour Mme Damas, pour le biais des épaules, on fait des rangs raccourcis: on tricote les 8-12 (cf taille) premières maille côté emmanchure, on les glisse en attente, on tricote les mailles restantes du rang, on tourne et on tricote le rang suivant. Répétez ainsi 3 fois au total (= 3 x 8-12 m en attente) et glissez les 10-15 dernières m en attente) - pensez à bien former l'encolure en même temps. On reprendra ces mailles plus tard (cf BORDURE POINT MOUSSE ÉPAULES). Bon tricot!

Edith 13.01.2017 - 07:43:

Hallo, ich bin beim Vorderteil am Schalkragen, da steht in jeder 2. Reihe 1 M zunehmen, insgesamt bei Größe xl 4 mal, dann 13 mal in jeder 4. R. Sind für mich 17 M. und keine 18 M die ich zugenommen habe. Oder zählt die 1. Zunahme nicht dazu? Bei insgesamt zählt für mich die 1. Zunahme dazu. LG Edith

DROPS Design 13.01.2017 kl. 08:59:

Liebe Edith, die erste Zunahmen am Schalkragen wurde 2 cm ab dem Auffassen gestrickt, dann 1 M x 4 in jeder 2. R + 1 M x 13 in jeder 4. R = 18 Zunahmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Pavla 13.11.2016 - 21:39:

Do you work 1 ridge over shawl collar sts only on every increase row or only one mentioned in pattern ? Thank ou Pavla

DROPS Design 14.11.2016 kl. 10:21:

Dear Pavla, the short rows worked over shawl collar when piece measures 2 cm from cable border is only worked one time. Happy knitting!

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