DROPS / 173 / 3

Irish Plaits Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.

  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
  • Irish Plaits Cardigan / DROPS 173-3 - Knitted jacket with raglan and cables on sleeves and in the sides, worked top down in DROPS Karisma or Sky. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no u-794
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 77, light oak

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-450-500 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for garter st/rib - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS METAL BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 7 pieces in all sizes
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (see diagram for correct size) and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan before marker and 2 sts in stocking st.
Inc for raglan after marker and 2 sts in stocking st.
INC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs twisted to avoid holes.
INC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid hole.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 4 sts remain before A.2a/A.2b, K 2 tog, K 2, work A.2a/A.2b, K 2, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat in the other side (= 4 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 115 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 11) = 9.5. I.e. in this example inc 1 st alternately approx. every 9th and 10th st (and do not inc over bands).


INCREASE TIP-2:
All inc are done from RS.
Work until 2 st remains before A.2b, 1 YO, K 2, A.2b, K 2, 1 YO. Repeat inc in the other side = 4 sts inc on row. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new sts in stocking st.

SHORT ROWS:
For every 10th row work short rows over the 5 sts in garter st in bands as follows (beg from RS): K 5 band sts, turn piece, tighten yarn and K back, turn piece and work as before over all sts, turn piece, K 5 band sts in garter st, turn piece, tighten yarn and K back. That way the ridges in band will not contract as much.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge, you may use a needle ½ size larger.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. I.e. band at the end of row seen from WS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band):
SIZE S: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 51 cm
SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 35, 44 and 53 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 19, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 48 and 58 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 39, 49 and 59 cm
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 115-119-123-130-134-140 sts (incl 5 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma or Sky. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, then work 1 row in stocking st while inc 11-15-27-32-32-38 sts evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-1, inside 5 band sts in garter st in each side = 126-134-150-162-166-178 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 row. Now work an elevation in back of neck in stocking st as follows, beg from RS: Work until 41-43-45-48-49-50 sts remain, turn and work until 41-43-45-48-49-50 sts remain, turn and work until 36-38-40-43-44-45 sts remain, turn and work until 36-38-40-43-44-45 sts remain, turn. Continue back and forth over 5 sts more on every turn until totally 8 short rows have been worked, work the rest of row from WS. Remember BUTTONHOLES AND SHORT ROWS - see explanation above. Now work pattern as follows from RS: Work 5 band sts in garter st, stocking st over the next 16-18-20-23-24-25 sts (= left front piece), insert a marker, 2 sts in stocking st, work A.1a over the next 22-22-26-26-26-30 sts – see diagram for correct size, 2 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), insert a marker, work in stocking st over the next 32-36-40-46-48-50 sts (= back piece), insert a marker, 2 sts in stocking st, work A.1a over the next 22-22-26-26-26-30 sts, 2 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), insert a marker, work in stocking st over the next 16-18-20-23-24-25 sts (= right front piece), work 5 band sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work 1 row from WS. Continue pattern like this. When the 2 rows in A.1a have been worked, repeat A.1b over A.1a, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above, on each side of every marker. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves.

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc like this every row 0-0-0-2-2-6 times, and every other row 24-26-28-28-32-32 times. Work the new sts in stocking st.

RAGLAN SLEEVES:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc like this every other row 16-24-25-27-25-23 times, and every 4th row 4-1-1-1-4-6 times. In size S-XXL work the new sts in pattern A.1b until there is room for the entire pattern (= 30 sts). Then work the new sts in stocking st. In size XXXL work all the new sts in stocking st.

When all inc are done there are 302-338-366-394-418-446 sts on needle. Piece measures 17-19-20-21-24-25 cm along band. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 45-49-53-58-63-68 sts, slip the next 66-76-82-86-88-92 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the next 80-88-96-106-116-126 sts, slip the next 66-76-82-86-88-92 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 45-49-53-58-63-68 sts on row.

BODY:
There are now 186-202-222-242-266-290 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work pattern as follows:
Work 5 band sts in garter st, work 38-42-47-52-58-64 sts in stocking st, work A.2a (= 12 sts), work 76-84-94-104-116-128 sts in stocking st, work A.2a, work 38-42-47-52-58-64 sts in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st. When A.2a has been worked vertically, repeat A.2b vertically over A.2a. When piece measures 4 cm, dec on each side of every repetition of A.2a - READ DECREASE TIP! Dec like this every 6th-6th-4th-4th-6th-6th row 4-4-5-5-4-4 times in total = 170-186-202-222-250-274 sts. When piece measures 13 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st in each side of A.2b - READ INCREASE TIP-2! Inc like this every other row a total of 23 times in all sizes = 262-278-294-314-342-366 sts. Continue until piece measures 34-34-34-35-34-34 cm adjust so that one whole repetition of A.2b has been worked vertically. Now inc sts evenly as follows on next row from RS: Work 5 band sts in garter st, work in stocking st over the next 57-61-65-70-77-83 sts while inc 10-11-12-12-15-14 sts evenly, work K over K and P over P over the next 12 sts, work in stocking st over the next 114-122-130-140-154-166 sts while inc 18-15-17-17-18-16 sts evenly, work K over K and P over P over the next 12 sts, work in stocking st over the next 57-61-65-70-77-83 sts while inc 10-11-12-12-15-14 sts evenly, work 5 band sts in garter st = 300-315-335-355-390-410 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 1 row. Now work rib as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, (K 2, P 3) over the next 65-70-75-80-90-95 sts, K 2, work K over K and P over P over the next 12 sts, work (K 2, P 3) over the next 130-135-145-155-170-180 sts, K 2, work K over K and P over P over the next 12 sts, work (K 2, P 3) over the next 65-70-75-80-90-95 sts, K 2, 5 band sts in garter st. Continue like this back and forth until rib measures 2 cm. Now inc 1 P st in every section with 3 P = 356-374-398-422-464-488 sts. Continue with rib until rib measures 4 cm in total. Cast off with K over K and P over P - READ CAST-OFF TIP. Fasten off.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip the 66-76-82-86-88-92 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts cast on under sleeve = 74-84-92-96-100-106 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of these new sts (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 new sts on each side of marker). Continue in the round with pattern A.1b over the 30 sts in the middle of sleeve and work A.2a (= 12 sts) mid under sleeve (i.e. 6 sts of pattern A.2a on each side of marker). Work remaining sts in stocking st. When A.2a has been worked vertically, repeat A.2b vertically over A.2a. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2b under sleeve - remember decrease tip. Dec like this every 7th-5th-4th-4th-4th-3rd round 14-18-21-22-23-25 times in total = 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts. When A.1b has been worked 6 times in total vertically (incl pattern on yoke), continue with A.1c (- see diagram for correct size). When entire A.1c has been worked vertically, continue with K over K and P over P over these sts. When piece measures 44-42-42-42-40 cm – adjust so that A.2b has been worked 1 time vertically (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Now work rib, beg from the 12 sts in A.2b mid under sleeve: Work K over K and P over P over the first 12 sts (= A.2b), P 0-0-0-1-1-2, K 2-3-4-3-4-3, P 0-0-0-1-1-2, work K over K and P over P over the next 30 sts, P 0-0-0-1-1-2, K 2-3-4-3-4-3, P 0-0-0-1-1-2. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Fasten off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.10.2016
New diagram A.2a/A.2b
Updated online: 04.05.2017
Correction: Diagram A.2b has been updated.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Eliana 04.02.2021 - 11:50:

Thank you again. I was confused because the pattern states that this is an "elevation in back of neck" but the turns are worked in the shoulder stitches. This makes a band of stocking stitch in the shoulders before A1 starts. Is this correct? I can't see it in the photos.

user icon DROPS Design 04.02.2021 kl. 13:10:

Dear Eliana, that's correct, that way the neck on back piece will be somewhat higher than the neck on front pieces - you can skip the elevation if you like to, both neck with then have same height. Happy knitting!

country flag Eliana 04.02.2021 - 08:11:

Thank you for answering my previous question so quickly. Do the 48 stitches include the 5 for the garter stitch band? Thank you again.

user icon DROPS Design 04.02.2021 kl. 09:45:

Dear Eliana, the 5 front band sts are always included in the number of sts, except when stated, ie on the first short row for elevation you work until 48 sts remain on needle (= including the 5 front band sts), turn and work until 48 sts remain on the other side (= including the 5 front band sts) etc. Happy knitting!

country flag Eliana Sullivan 03.02.2021 - 18:47:

Please help. I do not understand the instructions for the neck elevation. Where do I start working the 48 stitches ( size XL) before turning? I tried starting at the 1st stitch of the row until 48 stitches remained on my left hand needle but after working all 8 short rows there is a band of stocking stitch between the neck and A1. The markers for the body and sleeves are not inserted until AFTER the short rows. Please explain this more clearly. Thank you very much!

user icon DROPS Design 04.02.2021 kl. 07:25:

Hi Eliana, Starting at the beginning of the row, work until you have 48 stitches left on the row, turn and work back until you have 48 stitches left on the row, turn and work until you have 43 stitches left on the row, turn and work back until you have 43 stitches left on the row. Continue like this for 8 short rows, reducing the number of stitches left by 5 each time you work from the right side and the same number working back. After the elevation, you begin the pattern and insert the markers. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

country flag Nathalie 01.05.2017 - 13:53:

Bonjour je tricote ce modèle en "merino extra fine" je n'ai plus que les manches à tricoter je trouve que l'encolure s'enroule sur elle même est-ce que cela va s'arranger au lavage ou au repassage ou dois-je défaire et modifier l'encolure ?

user icon DROPS Design 02.05.2017 kl. 11:32:

Bonjour Nathalie, vous pouvez bloquer votre gilet à la fin (laver et sécher, avec des épingles si besoin). Si le souci persiste, vous pouvez ajouter une petite bordure au crochet pour la maintenir. Bon tricot!

country flag Tina Borup 13.02.2017 - 22:16:

Hej, Angående mønster A.2b. Er det korrekt at mønster kun går over 9 pinde.

user icon DROPS Design 14.02.2017 kl. 09:44:

Hej Tina. Ja, A.2b gaar over 9 p i alt.

country flag Julia 13.12.2016 - 01:33:

Ich finde eure Seite einfach nur super! Habe gerade mit den Stricken und Häkeln angefangen und eure Seite ist eine tolle Motivation mehr auszuprobieren. Kann man eure Produkte (Strickjacken etc.) auch kaufen? Habe so viele schöne Pullover oder Ponchos gesehen 😊 Liebe Grüße, Julia

user icon DROPS Design 13.12.2016 kl. 08:58:

Liebe Julia, wir haben in unseren Seiten nur Anleitungen, aber gerne können Sie Ihren DROPS Laden mal fragen, ob sowas möglich wäre. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Marina Clé 24.11.2016 - 09:52:

Hallo, ik heb een vraag over de beschrijving helemaal in het begin. Na de ribbels voor de halsboord brei je verkorte naalden in tricotsteek. Zoals ik het begrijp begin je pas na die verkorte toeren met het telpatroon voor de kabel op de mouwen. Toch lijkt mij het resultaat dan niet wat het zou moeten zijn omdat er dan een stukje tricotsteek zit tussen de halsboord en het kabelpatroon. Wat doe ik fout? grtjs

user icon DROPS Design 24.11.2016 kl. 12:36:

Hoi Marina. Je breit zoals er staat in het patroon: halsboord, verkorte toeren en dan patroon. Zo is het model op de foto ook gebreid. Veel plezier :)

country flag Claudia 18.11.2016 - 09:39:

Leider passt mir das Modell gar nicht gut. Von oben nach unten gestrickte Jacken sitzen (bei mir) im Schulterbereich gar nicht gut. Dies war das zweite (und letzte) Modell für mich. Ausserdem sind mir die Ärmel im unteren Bereich viel zu eng und ich habe dünne Arme. Leider kratzt auch noch die Wolle - da kann das Modell jetzt nichts dafür. Schade, denn das Muster ist wirklich schön!

country flag Emma 17.11.2016 - 22:22:

Ou alors il faut supprimer le dernier rang du diagramme pour avoir 1 seul rg de chaque côté de celui avec une maille croisée ?

country flag Emma 17.11.2016 - 22:21:

Bonjour. Le diagramme A2b est étrange (motif non symétrique). Il faut tricoter le motif de médaillon (sur 5 rgs) / UN rang simple / 1 rg avec m. croisée / DEUX rangs simples / médaillon etc. Il manque 1 rang pour avoir 2 rgs autour de celui avec une maille croisée

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