DROPS / 172 / 7

In Treble by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Crochet DROPS hat and neck warmer with treble groups in ”Big Delight”.

DROPS design: Pattern no db-069
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes in colour no 11, berry muffin

Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: 60-63 cm Height: 34-36 cm
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200 g for both sizes in colour no 11, berry muffin

DROPS HOOK SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 11 tr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm, and 1 tr group + 1 ch on 3.5 cm in width and 6 rounds vertically = 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.60 £ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 4.60 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Beg every round with dc with 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.
Beg every round with tr with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in third ch at beg of round.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

Dec 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 dc dec.

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on round (= 81 dc) and divide these sts by no of dec to be done (e.g. 27 dc) = 3. I.e. in this example work approx. every 2nd and 3rd dc tog.

COLOUR TIP (applies to hat):
To a richer colour spectre with Big Delight work every other round with strand from inside and outside of ball.

The piece is worked top down in the round..
Beg with Big Delight on hook size 7 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1a, then work A.1b 4 times on round, finish with A.1c. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When entire diagram has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 13 cm from the top down.
Continue by repeating the 2 last rounds in diagram until piece measures 20 cm – adjust to finish after last round in diagram.
Then work an edge in dc as follows – READ CROCHET INFO AND COLOUR TIP: Work 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc around every ch = 81 sts (incl 1 ch at beg of round). On next round, dec 27-25 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 and DECREASE TIP-2 = 54-56 dc. Continue in the round with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 24-25 cm in total. Fasten off.

Work in the round, bottom up.
Work 85-90 ch on hook size 7 mm with Big Delight and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 3 ch – READ CROCHET INFO, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, * work 1 ch, skip 2 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round until 2 ch remain, work 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 68-72 sts.
Now work pattern, beg on round with arrow in diagram as follows: Work A.2a, A.2b 16-17 times on round, A.2c. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Repeat 2nd and 3rd round in diagram A.2a to A.2c until piece measures 34-36 cm – adjust to finish after a round that is 3rd round in diagram.
Now work an edge as follows:
Work 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1 ch at beg of round. Fasten off.
Work 1 edge along ch-row worked at beg of piece as follows: Work 1 dc around a ch-space with 2 ch, 4 ch * work 1 dc around next ch-space, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round. Fasten off.


= work 5 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st. Black dot is beg of round.
= 1 tr around ch/ch-ring
= 1 tr in ch
= 3 ch at beg of round. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
= 1 ch
= beg here

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Catherine Ness 03.10.2020 - 20:18:

I'm not referring to the main pattern which I have finished, only the last part of the pattern, just the edging. "Now work an edge as follows:.." My question is, why are the bottom edge and the top edge different? - one has 3ch between each dc, the other has 4ch! This results in one edge being tighter than the other.

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 10:01:

Dear Mrs Ness, this is correct, the top edge will be tighter than the bottom edge. Happy crocheting!

Catherine Ness 28.09.2020 - 23:31:

When edging the neck warmer, the bottom edge has 3 chain between each dc but the top has 4 chain. Is this correct, as it means that the top will be looser than the bottom. Shouldn't both edges be the same?

DROPS Design 29.09.2020 kl. 08:03:

Dear Mrs Ness, at the beg of the round you start with 3 chains to replace the first dc, then work 2 dc (= 1 dc-group with 3 dc), you work then 3 dc for each dc-group and 1 chain between each dc group, you should end with 1 chain after last dc-group and 1 sl st in the 3rd chain from beg of round wich replace 1st dc. Happy crocheting!

Kiara 28.01.2019 - 17:15:

Anch'io ho problemi nel leggere i diagrammi, ritengo che un video sarebbe molto utile per imparare ad orientarsi. Ho letto la risposta per Mary, ma vorrei sapere: quando non è indicato nulla, negli spazi bianchi, si salta direttamente avanti? Le tre catenelle indicate quasi all'inizio del lavoro in A.1 b e A.1 c, quando si lavorano? Appartengono a un giro? Grazie, attendo risposta prima di effettuare l'acquisto della lana.

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 20:45:

Buongiorno Kiara. Se capiamo correttamente la domanda, lo spazio bianco in realtà coincide con una catenella (il trattino orizzontale che trova sopra lo spazio bianco). Intorno a quella catenella lavora le maglie alte al giro successivo e si forma il buco che vede in fotografia. Le 3 cat di A1b e A1c si lavorano al primo giro dei diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

Mary 21.10.2017 - 16:38:

Buonasera,putroppo non riesco a leggere il diagramma per il berretto!Non riesco proprio ad iniziare il lavoro,potrei avere delle delucidazioni in merito?Anche un video esplicativo su come lavorare i diagrammi A1a,b,c sarebbe utile!Grazie

DROPS Design 22.10.2017 kl. 09:34:

Buongiorno Mary. Deve avviare 5 cat e chiuderle in cerchio. Poi lavora 3 cat, 2 maglie alte, (diagramma A.1a) poi ripete per 4 volte il diag A1b: 3 cat, 3 m.a; poi lavora il diag A1c: 3 cat e chiude il giro con 1 m.bss nella terza cat dall'inizio del giro.Prosegue iniziando i giri con 3 cat e lavorando 1 m.a quando trova il segno con il pallino nero e 1 cat quando trova il trattino orizzontale. Buon lavoro!

MARIA AMODEO FERNANDEZ 10.01.2017 - 14:42:

Hola, me encanta este conjunto,de momento querÍa hacer el cuello pero no entiendo el diagrama y he buscado en ayuda y no lo he encontrado, no se si está publicado o no. Por favor me podríais explicar cómo se hace lo del diagrama?, no comprendo lo de A.2a, A.2b y A2c, lo he leído varias veces pero no logro entender el patrón. Gracias por su contestación. Un saludo, MARIA.

DROPS Design 14.01.2017 kl. 12:24:

Hola Maria. Los diagramas A.2a, A.2b y A2c se trabajan como sigue: 3 p.de cad., 2 p.a. (= A.2a), 1 p.de cad, 3 p.a., 1 p.de cad., 3 p.a. (= dos repeticiones de A.2b que tienes que trabajar hasta el final de la vuelta = un total 16-17 repeticiones (depende de la talla)) y 1 p.de cad. (= A.2c). No te olvides de finalizar la vta según la INFORMACIÓN PARA REALIZAR EL TRABAJO.

Anpatito 22.12.2016 - 11:07:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse C'est ce que j'ai fait

Anpatito 20.12.2016 - 19:52:

Bonjour Je n'ai pas de problème avec les points mais j'ai recommencé le bonnet plusieurs fois et je ne suis toujours pas satisfaite Il est toujours trop grand même après les 27 diminutions Je ne crochète ni trop serré ni trop lâche, ce n'est donc pas une question grosseur de crochet C'est dommage car l'ensemble me plaît beaucoup Comment dois-je procéder? Merci ^pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 21.12.2016 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Mme Anpatito, si votre échantillon et votre tension sont justes (= 11 B = 10 cm de large), et que la bordure en ms est trop large, ajoutez des diminutions supplémentaires pour ajuster à votre taille. (la bordure doit être plus serrée que le tour de tête pour que le bonnet tienne bien en place). Bon crochet!

Maria Bækkelund 21.09.2016 - 17:38:

Jeg kan ikke printe diagrammerne ud.Der er blank på siderne.Hilsen Maria Bækkelund

Ursula 15.06.2016 - 12:00:

Was für wunderschöne Farben !!!!! Bitte unbedingt veröffentlichen.

Lauren McRoberts 12.06.2016 - 01:23:

I love this set! It will be beautiful in any of the colors from this yarn. Please include!

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