Emerald Queen by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tunic with deep raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Emerald Queen / DROPS 171-1 - Knitted DROPS tunic with deep raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Emerald Queen / DROPS 171-1 - Knitted DROPS tunic with deep raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Emerald Queen / DROPS 171-1 - Knitted DROPS tunic with deep raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-038
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 19, forest green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 45.00 kr /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 45.00 kr /50g
Rito
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 45.00 kr /50g
Rito
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 315kr. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE FOR SLEEVES:
Increase 1 st in each side on each sleeve by increasing after A.2 and before A.3 (= 2 st inc on each sleeve and 4 sts in total on round). Inc 1 st by making 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make holes.

INCREASE MID FRONT AND MID BACK:
Increase 2 sts on each side of st with marker thread on mid front and mid back as follows: Knit until 1 st before st with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit st with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 4 sts inc mid front/mid back and 8 sts in total on round). On next round knit the 2 yarn overs closest to the st with mid-st to make holes, the outermoste 2 sts should be knit twisted to avoid holes.

Increase 1 st on each side of st with marker thread on mid front and mid back as follows: Work until st with maker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit st with maker thread (mid-st), make 1 yarn over (= 2 sts inc mid front/mid back and 4 sts in total on round).On next round knit yarn overs to make holes.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the eye let row being interrupted while increasing for sleeves on every 4th row and not on every 2nd row as before, work as follows on the rows that previously had increases:
After A.2: Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 st knitvise, knit 1 and pass slipped st over the knit st.
Before A.3: Knit until 2 sts before A.3, knit 2 st tog and make 1 yarn over.

KNITTING TIP-2:
If you want a little less volume on body, it is possible to make some adjustments after dividing for sleeves. Decrease 2 sts mid front and mid back on i.e every 8th round as follows (decrease on a round with increases): Knit until 2 sts before st with marker (= mid-st), knit 2 tog, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-st), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 st knitvise, knit 1 and pass slipped st over the knit st (this decrease vil give approx 8 cm less width in total at the end of body).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Beg 3 sts before marker and dec as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------

TUNIC:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 66-66-70-70-74-74 sts on a short circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands Air. Remove 1 strand and continue with 1 strand Air as follows: Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to a short circular needle size 5 mm, work next round as follows: Work A.1 (= 12 sts inc to 18 sts), 2 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), A.1 (= 12 sts inc to 18 sts), 7-7-9-9-11-11 sts in stocking st (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts = mid front), A.1 (= 12 sts inc to 18 sts), 2 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), A.1 (= 12 sts inc to 18 sts) and 7-7-9-9-11-11 sts in stocking st (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts = mid back) = 90-90-94-94-98-98 sts on needle.

Next round work as follows: Work A.2A (= 18 sts), inc 1 st – READ INCREASE FOR SLEEVES, knit 2, inc 1 st for sleeve, work A.3 (= 20 sts), knit 0-0-1-1-2-2 s, inc 2 sts on each side of st with marker thread – READ INCREASE MID FRONT AND MID BACK, knit 0-0-1-1-2-2 sts, work A.2B (= 2 sts), work A.2A (=18 sts), inc 1 st for sleeve, knit 2 sts, inc 1 st for sleeve, work A.3 (= 20 sts), knit 0-0-1-1-2-2 sts, inc 2 sts on each side of st with marker thread (= mid back) and knit 0-0-1-1-2-2 sts and work A.2B (= 2 sts) = 102-102-106-106-110-110 sts on needle.

Then work stocking st in the round with A.2 and A.3 in every transition between body and sleeves. AT THE SAME TIME continue increase for sleeves and increase mid front and mid back as follows:

SLEEVES:
Increase on every 2nd round 10-13-15-21-23-27 times in total (including the increase explained on firste round), then increase on every 4th round 11-11-11-9-9-8 times in total - READ KNITTING TIP-1.

MID FRONT AND MID BACK :
Inc 2 sts on every side of st with marker in it on every 2nd round 11-14-15-18-21-25 times in total (including the increases explained on first round). Then increase 1 st on each side of st with marker in it on every 2nd round 21-20-21-21-20-18 times in total. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase on body and sleeves there are 346-378-402-442-474-510 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: Work as before over the first 11 sts (= until middle of 2 P sts in A.2), slip the next 62-68-72-80-84-90 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts under sleeve, work as before over the next 111-121-129-141-153-165 sts on front piece(i.e 11 st in A.3, 89-99-107-119-131-143 knit sts, 11 sts in A.2)slip the next 62-68-72-80-84-90 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts under sleeve and work the remaining 100-110-118-130-142-154 sts on back piece as before (i.e 11 sts in A.3 and 89-99-107-119-131-143 knit sts).
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 234-254-274-298-326-354 sts. Insert 1 marker in the piece. Work next round as follows: Work A.4 (12 sts), knit 4-4-6-6-8-10 sts, A.5 (=11 sts), knit until mid-st, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-st), make 1 yarn over, knit until A.2, work A.4 (= 12 sts), knit 4-4-6-6-8-10 sts, A.5 (= 12 sts), knit until mid-st, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-st), make 1 yarn over and knit the rest of round (= 4 sts increased).
Continue pattern like this while AT THE SAME TIME continuing to increase mid front and mid back on every 2nd round until inc has been done 20 times on each side of mid front/mid back from marker - READ KNITTING TIP-2 = 314-334-354-378-406-434 sts on needle (or work until desired length). On next round work sts in each cable K tog 2 by 2 (= 12 sts dec) = 302-322-342-366-394-422 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges in garter st in the round over all sts. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off (this is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Slip the sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts cast on under sleeve on body = 68-74-80-88-94-102 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work in stocking st in the round over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec over the two cables by working sts in each cable K tog 2 by 2 (= 6 sts dec) = 62-68-74-82-88-96 sts. When piece measures 2 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec a total of 12-14-17-20-22-25 times in Size S: On every 4th round, in size M: On every 3rd round, in size L: Alternately on every 2nd and 3rd round, in size XL: On every other round, in size XXL: Alternately on every and every other round and size XXXL. On every round = 38-40-40-42-44-46 sts on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 22-21-20-19-17-16 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 7-10-10-8-11-9 sts evenly = 45-50-50-50-55-55 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 15 cm, switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm before casting off with K over K and P over P (this is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge).
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.03.2017
The pattern has been re-written and there are several new diagrams.
Updated online: 04.05.2017
The pattern has been updated with new diagrams A.2A and A.2B. It has also been updated under yoke.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = work 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (154)

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Er nu færdig, flot trøje, men afslutnings kanten ruller. Er der en anden måde at afslutte på ene de 4 omg ret strækning?

27.04.2022 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten, du kan også afslutte i rib, som du gør på ærmerne, ellers går det normalt at presse lidt forsigtigt med et strygejern (læg gerne et viskestykke imellem). God fornøjelse!

29.04.2022 kl. 08:12

country flag RACHEL DROMARD wrote:

Je voulais faire ce modèle qui me plaisait beaucoup, mais j ai rencontré des difficultés de compréhension dès la 2eme ligne du début comment passer de A2 18 m a A3 20m . si je suis le diagramme mes mailles envers (avant torsades) seront décalées - je ne sais pas si il s agit 'un problème de ponctuation, il faut bien prévoir 2 mailles jersey pour la manche au départ ?

26.04.2022 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dromard, A.2 se tricote sur 12 mailles, et on va augmenter 6 mailles (cf étoile dans la légende = on va tricoter 2 fois chacune des 3 mailles avec une étoile). Le 1er A.3 se tricote sur les 18 mailles obtenues après A.1 + les 2 mailles suivantes (=2 m tricotées en jersey = 1 jeté, 1 diminution à la fin de A.3). On a effectivement 2 mailles entre les 2 A.1 et entre A.2/A.3 pour la manche. Bon tricot!

26.04.2022 kl. 13:26

country flag Line wrote:

Som Marian også skriver, forstår jeg ikke der skal deles til ærmegab efter 11 masker og ikke 9, når der samtidig står at det er i mellem to vrangmasker - for der er ikke 2 vrangmasker efter 11 masker i A2.

25.01.2022 - 22:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, det er svært at svare på hvad der kan være sket. Men ja du skal dele midt imellem to vrang i A.2, så hvis ellers maskeantallet stemmer i øvrigt, så er det bare at fortsætte :) God fornøjelse!

27.01.2022 kl. 10:53

country flag Anne Lise Ebbesen wrote:

2. del fra Anne Lise Ebbesen: Jeg har lavet 2 billeder, hvor man kan se forskel i indtagninger på jeres billede og min strikkede model. Jeg vil gerne have lov at sende de to billeder til jer. Kontakt mig venligst med en mailadresse. Jeg kan se i kommentarer til 171-1, at der er flere, som har skrevet om præcis det samme problem: alt for bred og for kort resultat. Jeg forventer en seriøs respons på dette. Mvh Anne Lise Ebbesen. Tlf. 3030 6342

13.03.2021 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne Lise, prøv at lægge billederne ud på DROPS workshop på Facebook sammenmed dit spørgsmål. Der er rigtig mange som har strikket denne model og der er gode chancer for at nogle af strikkepigerne, kan forklare helt specifikt hvordan de har gjort.

23.03.2021 kl. 14:37

country flag Laila Kvist Jepsen wrote:

Kan jeg se et foto af hvordan, den ser ud under armhulen eller hvor armene ikke er tæt på kroppen. Jeg har aldrig før haft det så svært med en opskrift!

17.02.2021 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Laila, vi har kun de 3 billeder du ser nedenfor det store, men et af dem viser siden på tunikaen :)

18.02.2021 kl. 08:38

country flag Laila Kvist Jepsen wrote:

Hej. Er igang med ærmerne. Kan det passe at snoninger ikke fortsætter ned på ærmet? Men derimod bliver snoningen afsluttet under ærmet og bliver til ret masker?

16.02.2021 - 19:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Laila, snoningerne fortsætter i hver side på ryg & forstykket til arbejdet er færdigt. Der er ikke snoninger på ærmerne. :)

18.02.2021 kl. 09:13

country flag Rikke wrote:

Kan det passe af når man deler til ærmer og krop, så deler man midt imellem de 2 snogninger således at den ene går til kroppen og den anden til ærmet. Det ser nemlig ikke sådan ud på billedet

30.01.2021 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rikke, ja det stemmer :)

03.02.2021 kl. 14:06

country flag Marion Nicola Simonsen wrote:

Jeg er nået til deling af arbejdet i ærmer, for- og bagstykke. strikker str. XL og har 442 masker Forstår ikke at A.2A og A,3 skal deles således at der er 11 masker til ærmet og 9 m til for- og bagstykket, ifølge billedet er hele A2A og A.3 meregnet i for- og bagstykket.

18.01.2021 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marion, du er nødt til at dele imellem de 2 snoninger, derfor bliver det 9 i den ene side og 11 i den anden. God fornøjelse!

20.01.2021 kl. 16:39

country flag Gertie Tobias wrote:

The bottom of page 2and 3 are printed over an advert so cant read them

11.12.2020 - 12:45

country flag Strikker wrote:

Hei, har dere en video på hvordan man skal legge opp masker i denne oppskriften?

20.04.2020 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, ja du finder alle de videoer og lektioner som kan bruge til denne bluse nederst i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

21.04.2020 kl. 11:42

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 171-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.