DROPS / 173 / 37

Misty Mountain by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper and hat with stripes, worked top down in “Puna”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no pu-005
Yarn group B
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JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour no 07, light grey
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 01, off white
100 g for all sizes in colour no 04, taupe

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 tr x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 12 rows pattern = 10 cm vertically.

HAT:
Size: S/M – M/L – XL
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 – 58/60 cm.
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 07, light grey
colour no 01, off white
Colour no 04, taupe

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 tr x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.50 £ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. See diagram for correct size.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc round with 1 ch (this replaces first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
Beg every round with tr with 3 ch (= first tr) and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
At the end of every round with tr/dc work as follows: Before last pull through of last tr/dc switch colour as follows: Get next colour, i.e. 2 round down (1 tr round and 1 dc round), with the new colour work 1 sl st around round it was worked on (i.e. around last tr/dc), 4 ch, pull then through last loop on hook. This is done to avoid a tight strand in the piece.

STRIPES:
STRIPE 1: 1 round off white.
STRIPE 2: 1 round light grey.
STRIPE 3: 1 round taupe.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Adjust so that next round is 1 round with tr. Work as before until 1 ch remains before marker, * work 1 tr around next ch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook (= 1 tr dec) *, repeat from *-* around next ch (i.e. on the other side of marker) = 2 tr dec at each marker (= 4 tr in total). Every time you dec, repeat A.1 2 times less in total in width.

INCREASE TIP:
Adjust so that next round is 1 round with tr. Work as before until 1 ch remains before marker, * work 3 tr around next ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total = 2 tr inc at marker, repeat at both markers (= 4 tr inc in total). Every time you inc, repeat A.1 2 more times in total in width.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeve):
Adjust so that next round is 1 round with tr. * Work 1 tr around first/next ch on round but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more around the same ch but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook (= 1 tr dec) *, repeat from *-* around next ch = 2 tr dec. Every time you dec, repeat A.1 1 time less in total in width. Dec alternately at beg and end of round (i.e. when dec at the end work as before until 2 ch remain on round).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked top down. Rounds start mid back.

YOKE:
Work 96-101-101-110-115-120 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with taupe and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 tr in each of the next 5-3-3-5-3-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 84-88-88-96-100-104 tr.

Work 2nd round (= round with dc/ch) in pattern as follows in STRIPES – see explanation above. Work A.1 over the first 10-12-12-12-14-14 tr (= 5-6-6-6-7-7 times in width), A.2 over the next 8 tr (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 tr (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in width), A.2 over the next 8 tr (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the next 20-22-22-24-26-28 tr (= 10-11-11-12-13-14 times in width), A.2 over the next 8 tr (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 tr (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in width), A.2 over the next 8 tr (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the last 10-10-10-12-12-14 tr (= 5-5-5-6-6-7 times in width).

Repeat A.1 vertically and inc as shown in A.2 AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly as follows:

Work 3rd round in pattern AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly as follows: Work A.1 over the first 10-12-12-12-14-14 sts and inc 0-2-2-4-4-4 tr evenly, A.2 as before (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts and inc 0-4-4-4-4-4 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 20-22-22-24-26-28 sts and inc 0-4-4-6-6-8 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts and inc 0-4-4-4-4-4 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the last 10-10-10-12-12-14 sts and inc 0-2-2-2-4-4 tr evenly = 100-120-120-132-138-144 tr (incl inc in A.2). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Work 4th round in pattern as follows: Work A.1 over the first 10-14-14-16-18-18 tr, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 6-10-10-12-12-12 tr, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 20-26-26-30-32-36 tr, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 6-10-10-12-12-12 tr, A.2 as before, A.1 over the last 10-12-12-14-16-18 tr.

Work 5th round in pattern AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly as follows: Work A.1 over the first 10-14-14-16-18-18 sts and inc 0-0-0-2-0-4 tr evenly, A.2 as before (= 2 times in width), A.1 over the next 6-10-10-12-12-12 sts and inc 0-2-4-4-0-0 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 20-26-26-30-32-36 sts and inc 0-0-2-4-4-8 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the next 6-10-10-12-12-12 sts and inc 0-2-4-4-0-0 tr evenly, A.2 as before, A.1 over the last 10-12-12-14-16-18 sts and inc 0-0-2-2-2-4 tr evenly = 116-140-148-164-160-176 tr (incl inc in A.2).

Continue pattern and inc in A.2. When last round remains in A.2, piece measures approx. 18-18-19-19-21-21 cm from neck edge (= 212-236-260-276-304-320 tr).

Work last round of A.2 as follows: Work A.1 over the first 10-14-14-18-18-22 tr, A.2 over the next 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr (= 1 time in width), 8-8-8-10-10-12 ch, skip the next 46-52-58-60-64-64 tr (i.e. 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr A.2, 6-12-14-16-12-12 tr A.1 and 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr A.2 for sleeve), A.2 over the next 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr (= 1 time in width), A.1 over the next 20-26-28-34-36-44 tr, A.2 over the next 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr (= 1 time in width), 8-8-8-10-10-12 ch, skip the next 46-52-58-60-64-64 tr (i.e. 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr A.2, 6-12-14-16-12-12 tr A.1 and 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr A.2 for sleeve), A.2 over the next 20-20-22-22-26-26 tr (= 1 time in width), A.1 over the last 10-12-14-16-18-22 tr = 136-148-160-176-196-216 sts. Continue piece with light grey.

Work next round as follows: Work A.1 over the first 30-34-36-40-44-48 sts, 1 tr in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 ch under sleeve, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.1 over the next 60-66-72-78-88-96 sts, 1 tr in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 ch under sleeve, insert 1 marker between these, A.1 over the last 30-32-36-38-44-48 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Then repeat A.1 over all sts.

When piece measures 4 cm from marker, dec 2 tr at each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 4-4½-4½-5½-5½-6 cm 3 times in total = 124-136-148-164-184-204 sts.

When piece measures 14-16-16-17-17-19 cm from marker, inc 2 tr at each marker – see INCREASE TIP.

Inc like this every 2½ cm a total of 6 times = 148-160-172-188-208-228 tr. Continue pattern until piece measures 35-37-37-38-38-40 cm from marker (= 54-56-58-59-61-63 cm from neck edge), adjust to finish with 1 round tr. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 46-52-58-60-64-64 tr. Work first round on sleeve with same colour as last stripe in dc on body. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in the 5th-5th-5th-5th-5th-6th ch of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 ch worked in armhole on body, work 1 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 3-3-3-5-5-6 ch, A.1 (i.e. 1 round with dc and ch) over the 46-52-58-60-64-64 tr over sleeve, finish with 1 dc in each of the remaining 4-4-4-4-4-5 ch under sleeve = 54-60-66-70-74-76 sts. Continue piece with light grey. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work A.1 in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from marker, dec 2 tr under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-1. Dec like this every 3-2½-2-2-2-2 cm 11-13-15-17-18-18 times in total = 32-34-36-36-38-40 sts. When piece measures 42-44-43-45-45-47 cm from marker, adjust to finish with 1 round tr. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work with light grey from RS as follows: Work 1 dc in every ch where tr was worked in first round (= 84-88-88-96-100-104 dc). Fasten off.
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HAT:
Work piece top down, in STRIPES - see explanation above.
Work 4 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with taupe and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work A.3 – see CROCHET INFO! After the 3 first rounds of A.3 (= 36 tr) repeat A.3 4 times in total on the round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When working last round of A.3, inc 0-2-4 tr evenly = 96-98-100 tr. Piece measures approx. 17 cm in diameter. Then work A.1 over all sts (= 48-49-50 times on round). When piece measures 23-24-25 cm in total from the top, adjust so that last round is a round with tr, work 1 dc in every tr (continue with stripes). Work 3 rounds in total with 1 dc in every st. Piece measures 24-25-26 cm in total from the top. Fasten off.

Diagram

= tr in ch
= tr around ch
= dc in tr
= dc between 2 tr
= ch
= first round is explained in pattern, beg on 2nd round
= inc round - see explanation in pattern




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (76)

Paulina 28.12.2019 - 10:28:

Ile słupków powinna mieć czapka w rzędzie 11? U mnie wyszło 136, do tego robótka faluje się. Średnica całej czapki ma mieć 17 cm czy tylko w rzędzie 11?

DROPS Design 30.12.2019 kl. 00:28:

Witaj Paulino! Zgodnie ze schematem, w ostatnim rzędzie powinnaś mieć 96 sł, w tym samym rzędzie powinnaś równomiernie dodać 0-2-4 sł w zależności od rozmiaru, który wykonujesz co da łącznie 96-98-100 sł. Średnica robótki w rzędzie 11 i niżej (ponieważ później już nie dodajemy oczek) powinna wynosić 17 cm. Pozdrawiamy!

Charlotte 04.12.2019 - 16:34:

Absolutely love your patterns. Almost finished the yoke with all rounds worked from the right side. I am worried that if I do the body with all rounds worked from the right side, it might get a slanted look, especially if I choose not to do the increasing and decreasing. Should I work the even rows from wrong side?

DROPS Design 05.12.2019 kl. 09:48:

Dear Charlotte, working alternately from RS and from WS may help to get a "straight" beg/end of rounds, you can continue body that way if you like to, just remember that it might affect the pattern look (rows from WS won't look like rows froms RS on yoke). Happy crocheting!

Helena 30.11.2019 - 22:04:

Har fastnat på varv 3 där det står att det samtidigt ska ökas jämt fördelat. Ska ökningarna göras på både A1 och A2? Har svårt att förstå diagrammen och undrar därför om någon har översatt dessa till ett vanligt och enklare virkmönster?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 10:09:

Hei Helena! Det hekles A.1 over det antall masker som er oppgitt for din størrelse, samtidig som A.1 hekles skal det økes. Vi har dessverre ikke en skrevet versjon av diagrammene, om en trenger hjelp til å lese heklediagrammer kan hjelpe. Lykke til!

Milou 18.11.2019 - 15:02:

Finalement j'ai réessayé de commencer ce pull, ne trouvant aucun autre modèle à mon goût. Je viens enfin de comprendre comment réaliser les augmentations et aussi comment poursuivre après le rang 5 après de nombreuses relectures ! Je pense qu'il faudrait ajouter un schéma de l'empiecement montrant les parties A1 et A2 afin de bien comprendre leur enchaînement sur l'ensemble de la pièce à crocheter. Merci pour ce magnifique modèle, j'espère arriver à le terminer rapidement.

Milou 16.11.2019 - 21:56:

Je souhaitais faire ce pull mais j'ai laissé tomber, je ne comprends pas du tout comment réaliser les augmentations...

Eva 23.10.2019 - 01:13:

Hola! He seguido el patrón, y me sale la talla S gigante, ya que se aumentan en cada A2 4 puntos(4 puntos x4=16 puntos) me sale un canesú inmenso... no se que estare haciendo mal....

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 23:27:

Hola Eva. Por la descripción es imposible saber dónde está el fallo. Primero hay que comprobar que la tensión del tejido sea la indicada en el patrón. También puedes contactar con la tienda de Drops más cercana para obtener ayuda personalizada.

Domenica 18.10.2019 - 15:39:

Riguardo al cappello, dopo aver lavorato una volta A3, come effettuare il successivo giro di una catenella ed una maglia bassa? Lo schema non è chiaro: la maglia bassa ogni quante maglie alte deve essere fatta? Non si capisce.

DROPS Design 18.10.2019 kl. 20:31:

Buongiorno Domenica. Deve lavorare 1 maglia bassa, 1 catenella, salta 1 maglia alta e lavora 1 maglia bassa nella maglia alta successiva, 1 catenella e così via. Quindi lavora una maglia bassa in una maglia alta sì e in una no. Buon lavoro!

Emma 15.08.2019 - 01:03:

When working on the A.2 section, you follow the pattern of tr in the corresponding A.2 diagram for the size you are working on. I found I had some gaps at the end of the row, so I just carried on the A.2 pattern until I closed it - I still seemed to end up with the right amount of tr! You only need to deal with A.1 and A.2 until row 5 - after that it’s just following the pattern in the A.2 diagram you’re working from! Good luck!

Emma 15.08.2019 - 00:55:

For those who come after me, I believe I have cracked the code. Even numbered rows are exactly the same for both diagrams. When the pattern says to Work A.1 over 14 stitches (for sample) it means put 2 tr through the hole created by the chain stitch on the row before - so essentially 2 tr in each hole for half the amount of holes than stitches. So if it says 14 stitches, do 2 tr in the each of the next 7 holes. Or if it says 26 stitches, do 2 tr in each of the next 13 holes.

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