DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

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Misty Harbor Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket, worked top down with raglan and textured pattern in “Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-23
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-117
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour no 10, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans assembly free cable honeycomb raglan relief round neck top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.2 in every transition between sleeve and body. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in stocking st until the fit A.1 on body and work them in A.3 on sleeves NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves as explained in pattern and on some round there will only be inc on front and back piece and not on sleeves.

DISPLACEMENT IN A.2 (applies to front and back piece after armhole):
A.2 should be displaced from the side under sleeve to mid front/mid back. Displacement is always done from RS as explained in pattern.

On right front piece and right side of back piece this is done as follows: Work as before until A.2, make 1 YO, work A.2 as before but when last st in A.2 remains slip this st as if to K, K 1 and psso. Continue pattern as before. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work new sts in A.3.

On left front piece and left side of back piece this is done as follows: Work as before until 1 st remains before A.2, K next st tog with first st in A.2, work A.2 as before, make 1 YO and work the remaining sts as before. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work new sts in A.3.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in A.3.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec 2 sts mid under sleeve as follows: Beg 2 sts before A.2, K 2 tog, work A.2 (= 8 sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). All buttonholes are dec from WS as follows: K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO (= hole). Dec for buttonholes on first row from WS after neck edge, dec the next 6-7 buttonholes with approx. 8 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 110-110-110-110-134-134 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS while inc 20 sts evenly in all sizes (do not inc over bands) = 130-130-130-130-154-154 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and P 1 row from WS but K the 5 edge sts in each side (= bands) - remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 sts (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 repetitions of 6 sts on left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.3 over the next 8 sts (= sleeve), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.1 over the next 36-36-36-36-48-48 sts (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 repetitions of 6 sts on back piece), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.3 over the next 8 sts (= sleeve), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.1 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 sts (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 repetitions of 6 sts on right front piece and 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
AT THE SAME TIME on next row beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves:
BODY: Inc on every row 0-6-5-12-10-16 times in total, then on every other row 18 times in total in all sizes and finally every 4th row 6-6-7-6-8-8 times in total.
SLEEVES: Inc every other row a total of 14-19-27-30-33-32 times, and on every 4th row a total of 8-7-4-3-3-5 time.

After all inc are done there are 314-354-374-406-442-470 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from WS (if last row was worked from WS, work 1 row from RS to beg on WS now): Work as before over the first 47-53-53-59-65-71 sts on right front piece, continue A.2 over the next 4 sts (= ½ repetition with A.2) and cast in addition on 6-6-7-7-7-8 new sts towards the side = 57-63-64-70-76-83 sts on right front piece. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Slip the remaining sts on 1 stitch holder or on another needle.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 57-63-64-70-76-83 sts. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING: Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, continue with A.2 over the next 8 sts, continue A.1 as before until band and finish with 5 band sts as before. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg DISPLACEMENT IN A.2 – see explanation above. Repeat displacement like this every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 36 times in total – NOTE: When displacing A.2, the total no of sts will be the same but there will be fewer sts in A.1 towards mid front and more sts in A.3 towards the side. Sts in A.1 that do not fit in pattern when displacing, is worked in stocking st until they fit pattern again.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from marker, inc 1 st inside 2 edge st in garter st in the side - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 6 cm a total of 3 times = 60-66-67-73-79-86 sts.
After last displacement there will be 1-2-2-3-4-5 repetitions of A.1 before band towards mid front. Continue pattern back and forth without displacement until piece measures 30-30-31-30-30-30 cm from marker (jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-56-58-60 cm from shoulder and down).
P 1 row from WS while inc 5-3-6-4-2-3 sts evenly = 65-69-73-77-81-89 sts - NOTE: Continue the 2 edge sts in the side and the 5 band sts towards mid front in garter st and continue A.2 with K over K and P over P (i.e. do not inc over A.2 or sts in garter st). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 5 band sts in garter st (adjust so that rib fits rib in A.2). Continue rib like this but on next row from RS inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts (inc 1 st by making 1 YO in transition between K and P, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes) = 79-84-89-94-99-109 sts. When rib measures 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm, loosely cast off with garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P (to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 2 strands Kid-Silk). Jacket measures now approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles.
Slip the next 60-68-78-82-88-90 sts from stitch holder or extra needle on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm and cast in addition on 12-12-14-14-14-16 new sts mid under sleeve = 72-80-92-96-102-106 sts. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue A.3 in the round but now work A.2 only over the middle 8 sts under sleeve.
When sleeve measures 1½ cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Dec a total of 13-16-21-22-23-24 times in Size S: On every 7th round, in size M: Alternately on every 5th and 6th round, in size L + XL: On every 4th round, in size XXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round and in size XXXL: On every 3rd round = 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts. When sleeve measures 32-31-31-31-28-27 cm, K 1 round while inc 14-16-18-16-16-14 sts evenly = 60-64-68-68-72-72 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round over all sts (= K 2/P 2 but adjust to continue rib over A.2 mid under sleeve). When rib measures 8 cm, inc all P 2 to P 3 (inc as on right front piece) = 75-80-85-85-90-90 sts. When rib measures 12 cm (or desired length, sleeve measures now approx. 44-43-43-43-40-39 cm), cast off with K over K and P over P (to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 2 strands Kid-Silk).

BACK PIECE:
Beg from WS, cast on 6-6-7-7-7-8 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm, work the next 92-104-104-116-128-140 sts from stitch holder/extra needle and cast on 6-6-7-7-7-8 new sts at the end of row = 104-116-118-130-142-156 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, continue A.1 over the next 84-96-96-108-120-132 sts, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, work 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3 and end with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern back and forth as follows: AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS start DISPLACEMENT IN A.2. Continue the displacement on every 2nd row (i.e. on every row from RS) until 6-8-8-10-10-12 repetitions of A.1 remains in the middle (i.e. 36-48-48-60-60-72 sts of A.1). The continue pattern without displacements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from marker, inc 1 st inside 2 edge sts in garter st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 6 cm a total of 3 times = 110-122-124-136-148-162 sts. When piece measures 30-30-31-30-30-30 cm from marker (jacket measures now approx. 52-54-56-56-58-60 cm from shoulder) P 1 row from WS while inc 8-8-6-6-6-8 sts evenly – NOTE: Continue the 2 edge sts in each side in garter st and continue A.2 with K over K and P over P (i.e. do not inc over A.2 or sts in garter st) = 118-130-130-142-154-170 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st (adjust so that rib fits rib in A.2). Continue rib like this but on next row from RS, inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts = 146-161-161-176-191-211 sts. When rib measures 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm, loosely cast off with garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P (to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 2 strands Kid-Silk).

LEFT SLEEVE:
Slip the next 60-68-78-82-88-90 sts from stitch holder/extra needle on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm and cast in addition on 12-12-14-14-14-16 new sts mid under sleeve = 72-80-92-96-102-106 sts. Then work in the round as on right sleeve.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Beg from WS, cast on 6-6-7-7-7-8 sts on circular needle 3.5 mm, continue A.2 over the next 4 sts (= ½ repetition of A.2) and work as before over the last 47-53-53-59-65-71 sts from stitch holder/extra needle = 57-63-64-70-76-83 sts on left front piece. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, continue A.1 over the next 42-48-48-54-60-66 sts, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, work 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3 and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and work the same way as on right front piece but reversed. When rib is worked at the bottom of front piece, work first row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams from armhole and down – sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to get a flat seam but stop when approx. 12 cm remain in each side (= vent). Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 24.04.2018
Correction: The 8 sts for the sleeves in the yoke are knitted in A.3

Diagram

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= 1 YO between 2 sts
	= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
	= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 2 from cable needle
	= slip 1 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 1 from cable needle
	= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (54)

Michaela Ansini wrote:

Liebes Team von Drops, Mir gefällt die Jacke sehr und ich würde sie gerne in Baumwolle oder einer Baumwolle-Mischung stricken. Aber welches Garn wäre da gut? In der Garntabelle habe ich schon nachgesehen, aber nichts passendes gefunden. Oder ist ein 100% Baumwollgarn zu schwer und kompakt dafür ? Ich freue mich, wenn Sie mir helfen können. Viele Grüße Michaela Ansini

17.09.2024 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Siehe unten :) Ihr DROPS Händler wird Ihnen auch gerne damit (auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail) weiter helfen, das beste passende Garn für Sie zu finden. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

17.09.2024 - 09:16

16.09.2024 - 21:40

Liebe Frau Ansini, benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die Alternative sowie die passende Garnmenge zu finden. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

17.09.2024 - 09:05

Camilla K wrote:

Flot opskrift. Min strikke prøve i retstrik passer perfekt med 10x10, men når jeg strikker A1 måler samme maskeantal kun 8,5 i bredden men 10 cm i højden - hvad skal jeg gøre? På forhånd tak for hjælpen.

03.09.2023 - 16:46

Hei Camilla. Mønsterstrikk og glattstrikk vil få ulike strikkefastheter. I denne oppskriften er strikkefastheten oppgitt i glattstrikk og så lenge du får riktig strikkefasthet i glattstrikk skal det være OK. mvh DROPS Design

11.09.2023 - 14:48

Nadine wrote:

How many strands are being knit at once? I can not see where it is mentioned anywhere on the pattern, and it looks like it is more then just one.

25.12.2022 - 19:44

Dear Nadine, you use just 1 strand of Kid-Silk. Due to the lace pattern, just 1 strand is enough to obtain this kind of garment. Happy knitting!

25.12.2022 - 20:04

Carol McMillan wrote:

Pattern uses gauge of 23 sts x 30 rows in st-st on 3.5mm = 4". Can I use a yarn with a gauge of 22 sts x 30 rows in st-st on 4.0 needles if I get the same 4" gauge? Should I then use a 3.5mm instead of the 3mm for the edges?

22.02.2022 - 23:28

Hi Carol. Yes, our needle sizes are only a guide and the important thing is to get the swatch right. If size 4 mm is right for the tension with this second yarn then use 3.5 mm for the edges. Happy knitting!

23.02.2022 - 06:52

Nicole Kröber wrote:

Hallo liebes DROPS Team, ich hab mal eine Frage. Ich möchte diese Strickjacke gerne mit der Drops Puna Wolle stricken, komm aber mit dem umrechnen nicht zurecht. Wieviel Gramm benötige ich denn von Puna? Vielen Dank im Voraus. Liebe Grüße, Nicole

02.01.2022 - 23:36

Liebe Frau Kröber, diese Jacke wird mit Kid-Silk, dh mit einem Garn der Garngruppe A gestrickt, wenn Sie Puna (=Garngruppe B) benutzen, bekommen Sie nicht die richtige Maschenprobe 23 M x 30 R = 10 x 10 cm und nicht die fertigen Maßen. Hier finden Sie, Jacken mit Lochmuster und Garngruppe B. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2022 - 13:01

Margit wrote:

Vielen Dank für Ihre rasche Antwort. Es tut mir leid, aber ich weiß nicht, was Sie meinen. Welche sind "die 2 ersten"? LG Margit

10.07.2020 - 23:20

Liebe Margit, oops entschuldigung, es meinte: die 6 Maschen in A.3 + die 2 ersten Maschen in A.3, dh Sie stricken das ganze Diagram einmal in der Breite, dann stricken Sie die 2 nächsten Maschen wie die 2 ersten Maschen im Diagram = so haben Sie 8 Maschen wie in A.3 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.07.2020 - 09:41

Liebes Drops-Team, ich teile gerade die Maschen (nach dem Halsbündchen) in Vorder- Rückenteil und Ärmeln ein. Für einen Ärmel sind 8 Maschen in A3 gedacht, A3 sind aber nur 6 Maschen , Ist das ein Fehler, oder habe ich einen Denkfehler? Freue mich auf eine Antwort. LG Margit

10.07.2020 - 11:25

Liebe Margit, Sie stricken die 6 Maschen in A.3 + die 2 ersten = jetzt haben Sie 8 Maschen im A.3 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.07.2020 - 11:39

Paulet Hélène wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. J’ai tricoté des châles avec cette laine mais jamais de vêtements. Est ce que la tenue sera aussi bonne après un lavage, car la laine est fine ? Qu’en pensez-vous ? Cordialement

25.05.2020 - 14:11

Bonjour Mme Paulet, nous utilisons souvent DROPS Kid-Silk pour des vêtements femme, seule, doublée ou accompagnée d'une autre laine - si vous l'avez déjà tricotée, vous la connaissez déjà bien, pour toute assistance supplémentaire, votre magasin pourra vous orienter - même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

25.05.2020 - 14:45

PAULET Hélène wrote:

Bonjour, je suis actuellement dans la lecture et compréhension des explications. je n'ai jamais commencé un tricot par le haut, ça sera une grande première ! je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle en Kid Silk mais avec 2 brins , je crains qu'en simple file la tenue soit médiocre. J'ai acheté 16 pelotes Qu'en pensez vous et avec quelle aiguille ? merci de votre réponse

24.05.2020 - 13:02

Bonjour Mme Paulet, ce modèle se tricote avec 1 seul fil Kid-Silk et un échantillon de 23 m x 30 rangs = 10 x 10 cm; si vous tricotez avec le fil en double, vous n'aurez pas cette tension, il vous faudra alors soit tout recalculer soit trouver un modèle se tricotant avec 2 fils Kid-Silk (ou 2 fils du groupe A/1 fil du groupe C). Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives 25.05.2020 - 09:48