DROPS / 170 / 20

Quite a Pear! by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS pear pot holders in "Paris".

DROPS design: Pattern no w-607
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
Piece measures approx. Length= 23cm x Width= 19cm.

Materials (for 2 pot holders):
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 17, off white
100 g color no 39, pistachio
50 g color no 25, moss green
Some left-over yarn color no 44, brown

One pot holder weighs approx. 70 g.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 18 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Round beg with ch 1, this comes in addition and does not replace first sc, finish with 1 sl st in ch.
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POT HOLDER:
Work 4 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue to work from ch-ring, work 19 ch, turn and work 1 sc in second ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next ch 5, work 1 hdc in each of the next ch 4, work 1 dc in each of the next 8 ch, work 8 dc around ch-ring, then work on the under side of ch-row: Work 1 dc in bottom edge of every dc, 1 hdc in bottom edge of every hdc and 1 sc in bottom edge of every sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 6 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 8 dc around ring.

ROUND 1:
Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 tr in every dc around circle, 1 dc in every dc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 7 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 16 tr around ring. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 2:
Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, * 1 tr in first tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* 8 times in total, 1 dc in every dc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 8 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 24 tr around ring.
ROUND 3:
Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, * 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* 8 times in total, 1 dc in every dc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 9 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 32 tr around ring.
ROUND 4:
Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, * 1 tr in each of the first 3 tr, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* 8 times, 1 dc in every dc, 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 10 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 40 tr around ring.
ROUND 5:
Switch to pistachio. Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc, 1 sc in each of the 4 hdc, 1 sc in each of the 8 dc, *1 sc in each of the first 4 tr, 2 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* 8 times, 1 sc in each of the 8 dc, 1 sc in each of the 4 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 23 sc on each side of ch-row, 48 sc around ring.
ROUND 6:
Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sc, *1 tr in each of the first 5 sc, 2 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* 8 times, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 12 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 56 tr around ring.

Work another pot holder, now work pot holder in pistachio.

CROCHET TOG:
Place 2 pot holders on top of each other WS against WS, and crochet them tog as follows: 1 sl st at the top of pear, 20 ch, 1 sc in next sc, in sc in every st, finish with 20 sc around ch-space and 1 sl st in first sc.

LEAF:
Work 14 ch with moss green, turn and work 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in next sc, then work on the under side of ch as follows: 1 sc in next ch,
1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 sc in each of the last ch 2, fasten off.

STRAP AND STEM:
Work 27 ch with brown, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next ch 2, work 1 leaf to stem with 1 sc through 1 st on leaf and 1 ch on stem, work 1 sc in each of the remaining ch, place the stem into a ring fasten with 1 sl st through all layers (both pot holder and stem). Fasten off. Embroider two seeds with brown - see photo.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.02.2016
ROUND 6:
... *1 tr in each of the first 5 sc, 2 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* 8 times, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in last sc, finish with 1 sl st = 12 sc, 4 hdc, 8 dc on each side of ch-row, 56 tr around ring.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Katia 23.11.2020 - 12:13:

Buongiorno, il quantitativo di filato indicato per il lavoro specifica essere per 2 presine; volevo però capire se si intende la realizzazione di 2 presine complete, ossia con le due parti unite e per un totale di 4 pezzi. Grazie

DROPS Design 25.11.2020 kl. 22:43:

Buonasera Katia, il quantitativo è per 2 presine intere. Buon lavoro!

Jane Belger 04.05.2020 - 22:49:

Someone is selling this pattern on Etsy. Imagine my surprise when I downloaded and saw "Drops Design"....the shop is Vintage Pattern Faves

Kim Nelson 03.12.2019 - 16:47:

What are the dimensions of the apple and the pear pot holders?

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 10:01:

Dear Mrs Nelson, if you get the right tension in height (and approx. 10 ,5 rows with dc and 21 rows sc = 10 cm in height), apple should be approx. 20 x 20 cm and pear should be approx. 23 cm height and 19 cm wide (at the widest part). Happy crocheting!

Pauline 25.08.2019 - 13:22:

Bij het ‘samenhaken’ 20 l voor een lus......en ‘ophang-lusje met steel’: dus de pannenlappen hebben twee ophang-lusjes?!? (Een groene en bruine?)

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 14:05:

Dag Pauline,

Nee, het zijn geen 2 ophanglusjes. Het is de bedoeling dat je het bruine ophanglusje door de groene lus rijgt en dan vast maakt.

Monique SERVAIS 25.07.2018 - 15:36:

J\'aime beaucoup ces accessoires nettement plus modernes !

Ida 28.07.2016 - 23:28:

Hva skal man bruke den luftmaske ringen man lager I pistasj når man hekler sammen sidene ?

DROPS Design 29.07.2016 kl. 11:36:

Hei Ida. Ikke noget, det er den du starter omg med, saa du kan komme igang.

Helene Lindemann 29.03.2016 - 16:00:

100g Pistacie var lige knebent til at nå begge pærer. Ellers meget fine grydelapper.

Mercedes 13.02.2016 - 01:11:

In round 6, at the end, says: "1 sc in each of the next 8 sc", but I think it must say: 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc. Love the pattern!

DROPS Design 17.02.2016 kl. 10:28:

Dear Mercedes, that's correct, pattern has been edited thank you. Happy crocheting!

Katja Kruse-Michailidis 08.02.2016 - 21:39:

Wozu ist die Luftmaschenkette beim Umhäkeln, die dann noch mit 20 fM umhäkelt wird. Der Aufhänger ist doch der Stil? Dieser Luftmaschenring kommt mir sehr fehl am Platz vor.....???

DROPS Design 09.03.2016 kl. 14:29:

Liebe Katja, Sie können die Topflappen natürlich gerne ohne diesen zusätzlichen Luftmaschenring häkeln.

Van Houdt Marie-louise 11.12.2015 - 14:43:

Zeer mooi, wij zouden met onze zieken deze graag willen maken naar aanleiding van 650 jaar " Stad PEER " Hopelijk kunnen we het patroon vinden . Voorzitter Ziekenzorg CM Peer-centrum

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