Colourful Spring by DROPS Design

DROPS Easter: Crochet DROPS pot holders with star in ”Paris”.

DROPS Extra 0-1103
DROPS design: Pattern no w-567
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Diameter: approx. 24 cm / 9 1/2''
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 07, heather
50 g color no 41, mustard
50 g color no 06, shocking pink
50 g color no 08, dark purple
50 g color no 10, dark turquoise
50 g color no 02, light turquoise
50 g color no 39, pistachio
50 g color no 42, army
50 g color no 05, light purple

Yarn is enough for 2 pot holders.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 16 sc/dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
NOTE: Beg by reading from POT HOLDERS further down in pattern.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (1st-5th round) and A.2 (6th-13th round). Diagrams show entire 1st and 2nd round, diagrams show 1 of 3 repetitions.

TTR:
Make 4 YOs on hook, move hook under st to be worked around, pull through first st, make YO around hook again, and pull through the first 2 sts, * make YO around hook again, and pull through the next 2 sts *, repeat from *-* 3 more times.

BOBBLE:
Work 1 sc in next st, work 2 tr tog into 1 tr as follows: 1 tr in same st but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 tr in same st but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook = 1 sc and 1 tr.

CROCHET 2 TR TOG:
2 tr tog into 1 tr as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 tr in next st but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook.

TIP:
Work 2 ttr and 1 sc into 1 st as follows: Work 1 ttr around same ttr as previous ttr was worked around but wait with last pull through, work 1 ttr around next ttr from 7th round but wait with last pull through, work 1 sc in next dc on round, now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook.

STRIPE COLORS:
ROUND 1: Mustard
ROUND 2: Shocking pink
ROUND 3: Heather
ROUND 4: Dark purple
ROUND 5: Dark turquoise

ROUND 6: Light turquoise
ROUND 7: Mustard
ROUND 8: Army
ROUND 9: Pistachio
ROUND 10: Army
ROUND 11: Light purple
ROUND 12: Shocking pink
ROUND 13: Heather

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc round with 3 ch (these ch are not counted in no of dc), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
Beg every sc round with 1 ch (this ch is not counted in no of sc), finish with 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round.


COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice transition between the color changes, work last sl st on round with the new color as follows: Insert hook in 1st/3rd ch from beg of round, get the new yarn, make a YO with the new color and pull it through st on hook (cut the yarn from previous row and pull it through st).

STRAP:
1 ch, * 1 sc in front part of 1st sc from hook, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until strap measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''.

LINES AND DOT (applies if only working according to diagram):
At every dot in diagram work around the st the line leads to.
ROUND 7: Work TTR - see explanation above - around sc at start from 4th round.
ROUND 9: Work ttr around ttr from 7th round.
ROUND 11: Work 1 dtr around ttr from 9th round.
ROUND 13: Work 1 tr around each of the 2 dtr from 11th round - READ CROCHET 2 TR TOG above.

LINES AND CIRCLE (applies if only working according to diagram):
At every circle in diagram work around the st the line leads to.
Circle on 9th ROUND: 2 ttr (1 around each st with dot from 7th round), and work 1 sc into 1 st as follows: Work 1 ttr around st with dot but wait with last pull through, work 1 ttr around next st with dot but wait with last pull through, work 1 sc in next dc on round, now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook.
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POT HOLDERS:
Work 2 pot holders that consist of 2 pot holders each which are assemble tog.

1 POT HOLDER:
Work 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with mustard and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. READ STRIPE COLORS AND CROCHET INFO.

Work PATTERN according to diagram – see explanation above, or according to pattern as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 12 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in first dc, 2 sc in each of the next 11 dc, 1 sc in first dc from beg of previous round = 24 sc.
ROUND 3: In space between the next 2 sc work 1 dc + 2 tr, 1 ch + 2 tr + 1 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in space between the next 2 sc, * skip 1 sc, in space between the next 2 sc work 1 dc + 2 tr, 1 ch + 2 tr + 1 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in space between the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times = 6 dc-groups.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in first ch, ch 1, in space between dc and sc work 5 tr, ch 1, * 1 sc in next ch, ch 1, in space between dc and sc work 5 tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times = 6 tr-groups, 12 ch and 6 sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 5 tr, 2 sc in next ch, * 2 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 5 tr, 2 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 sc in first sc from beg of round = 66 sc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every sc the entire round = 66 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 dc, 1 ttr around first sc from 4th round, * work 1 sc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 ttr around next sc from 4th round, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 sc in next dc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ttr around same sc as previous ttr was worked around, 1 sc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 ttr around next sc from 4th round, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ttr around same sc as previous ttr was worked around *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 1 sc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 ttr around next sc from 4th round, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 sc in next dc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ttr around same sc as previous ttr was worked around, 1 sc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 ttr around same sc as first ttr was worked around, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc = 12 ttr and 72 sc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 dc in every sc/ttr the entire round = 84 dc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 sc in first dc, 1 BOBBLE – see explanation above, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 ttr around first ttr from 7th round, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ttr around next ttr from 4th round, * skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 1 bobble, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 TIP - see explanation above, 1 sc in next sc, 1 bobble, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 ttr around same ttr as previous ttr was worked around, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ttr around next ttr from 7th round *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, work 1 ttr around next ttr from 7th round, 1 sc in next dc, 1 bobble, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, work 1 tip = 24 ttr, 72 sc and 12 bobbles.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sc in every sc/ttr the entire round = 96 sc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 1 dtr around first ttr from 9th round, 1 sc in next sc, 1 dtr around next ttr from 9th round, * 1 sc in each of the next 15 sc, work 1 dtr around first ttr after tip from 9th round, 1 sc in next sc, 1 dtr around next ttr from 9th round *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc = 12 dtr and 96 sc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 sc in each of the first 17 sc/dtr, 1 bobble, * 1 sc in each of the next 17 sc/dtr, 1 bobble *, repeat from *-* 4 more times = 102 sc and 6 bobbles.
ROUND 13: Work 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 1 tr around each of the first 2 dtr from 11th round that are (the 2 tr) worked tog into 1 tr - READ CROCHET 2 TR TOG, * 1 sc in each of the next 18 sc/tr, 1 tr around each of the next 2 dtr from 11th round that are worked tog into 1 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sc/tr.
Work another 1 pot holder the same way for 1 pot holder.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the 2 pot holder tog, WS against WS and work them tog through both layers with heather as follows:
REMEMBER CROCHET INFO! Work 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, work STRAP – see explanation above, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sc, 2 sc in next tr, * 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2 sc in next tr *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sc. Piece measures approx. 24 cm / 9 1/2'' in diameter. Fasten off.

Work another 2 pot holders.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st
symbols = sc around st
symbols = dc around ch-ring/in sc
symbols = 1 tr in space between dc and sc
symbols = around space between 2 sts work: 1 dc + 2 tr + 1 ch + 2 tr + 1 dc
symbols = READ LINES AND DOT in pattern
symbols = READ LINES AND CIRCLE in pattern
symbols = applies when 7th round is worked - then work around sc at star
symbols = 1 BOBBLE - read explanation in pattern
symbols = shows where line continues
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1103) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Wilma wrote:

Toer 3 eindig ik met een vaste, vervolgens moet ik toer 4 beginnen met een vaste in de eerste -L. Maar hoe kom ik daar? Moet ik toer 4 beginnen met 4 L ?

24.11.2018 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wilma,

Goede vraag (staat inderdaad niet goed aangegeven). Om aan het begin van de toer te komen na de laatste steek van toer 3 kun je het beste halve vaste haken langs de zijkant van het groepje stokjes.

28.11.2018 - 13:14

country flag Monika Opočenská wrote:

Dobrý den, hlásím hotové obě chňapky, jsou nádherné. Jen víc utahuju, vyšly mi o 2cm v průměru menší. Děkuji za skvělý návod. Monika

31.07.2015 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Milá Moniko, díky za zprávu - návrhářská sekce byla pochvalou potěšena :-) A vy se na oplátku můžete těšit na další (věřím, že báječné) nápady, modely i návody. Hodně zdaru! Hana

01.08.2015 - 18:44

country flag Tina Olsen wrote:

Har det kommit någon rättelse till denna? Is there any errata for this pattern yet?

25.07.2015 - 09:43

country flag Vivi Dreyer Rindebæk wrote:

Hej Efter at have pillet op 3 gange, har jeg fundet en fejl i omgang 9. Der skal også springes en fm over under SPIDS. Ellers passer det ikke.

09.07.2015 - 19:55

country flag Rita wrote:

Helemaal gelijk. Toch het patroon niet goed gelezen.mijn fout was dat ik elke vaste maar 1 vaste deed ipv 2. Dank voor de reactie

01.06.2015 - 15:24

country flag Rita wrote:

Met dit patroon kom ik na de stokjes ronde op maar 60 stokjes uit ipv 66 die het patroon aangeeft. na 3 keer opnieuw beginnen geef ik het maar op. jammer

31.05.2015 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Rita. Dat is jammer. Ik heb toer 5 nagekeken en uitgerekend, en als je die correct haakt zou je op 66 steken uitkomen: haak 1 v in eerste v, 2 v in volgende l, 1 v in elke van de volgende 5 dstk, 2 v in volgende l, * 2 v in volgende v, 2 v in volgende l, 1 v in elke van de volgende 5 dstk, 2 v in volgende l *, herhaal van *-* nog 4 keer, 1 v in eerste v van het begin van de toer = 66 v = 1+2+5+2 (=10), *2+2+5+2* (aantal st tussen de sterretjes), herhaal in TOTAAL 5 keer (= 55), eindig met 1 v in de eerste v = 66

01.06.2015 - 13:56

country flag Anna-Greth Bosrup wrote:

Hej! Varför går det inte att skriva ut diagrammet till Colorful Spring By Drops Design Extra 0-1103, när hela övriga mönstret fungerar perfekt. Vill så gärna virka dessa grytlappar men har inte tillgång till data alltid. Gäller alltså bara själva diagrammet. Hälsning Anna-Greth

09.04.2015 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Greth. Du skulle kunne printe diagram ud uden problemer.

22.04.2015 - 15:58

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