DROPS / 161 / 25

Lady Grey by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Fabel” with stripes, garter stitch and domino squares. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Lady Grey / DROPS 161-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Fabel” with stripes, garter stitch and domino squares. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Lady Grey / DROPS 161-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Fabel” with stripes, garter stitch and domino squares. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Lady Grey / DROPS 161-25 - Knitted DROPS jacket in ”Fabel” with stripes, garter stitch and domino squares. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-288
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-120-132-148 cm / 34½"-37 3/4"-41"-47"-52"-58"
Full length: 71-72-74-77-82-86 cm / 28"-28½"-29"-30½"-32 1/4"-34"


Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color no 604, ocean view
200-200-250-250-250-300 g color no 100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTONS: ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows (first row in each stripe = from right side):
1 RIDGE – see description above – with ocean view.
1 ridge with off white.

DOMINO SQUARE:
ROW 1 AND ALL OTHER ROWS FROM WRONG SIDE: Knit.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit to the stitch with the first marker, 1 yarn over, knit stitch with first marker, knit to stitch with 2nd marker, 1 yarn over, knit stitch with 2nd marker, 1 yarn over, knit to the stitch with the 3rd marker, knit stitch with 3rd marker, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 4 stitches increased). The yarn overs are then knitted to allow holes.
ROW 4: Knit and increase as in row 2.
ROW 6: Knit to the stitch with the first marker, 1 yarn over, knit the stitch with the first marker, knit to 1 stitch before the stitch with the 2nd marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit the stitch with the 2nd marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to the stitch with the 3rd marker, knit the stitch with the 3rd marker, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 6 stitches increased).
ROW 8: Knit and increase as for row 2.
ROW 10: Knit and increase as for row 2.
Repeat rows 1 to 10.

BUTTONHOLE:
1 BUTTONHOLE = Knit 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over.
Make 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes on the right band when the band (= part-11) measures 2-2-2-4-4-6 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1½"-1½"-2 1/4". The first hole is worked 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''- 3 1/8''- 3 1/8'' from the neckline, the others with approx. 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½" between them. The 5th-5th-5th-6th-6th-6th buttonhole is worked when working the neckline, make it above the others.
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JACKET:
The jacket is worked as follows (see A.1): Left part (= part-1 and part-2) is worked as one, right part (= part-3 and part-4) is worked as one, then an edge is worked around the whole jacket (= part-5 to part-9). The bands are worked to finish (= part-10 and part-11). The broken lines in A.1 show the seams on the jacket. Then the sleeves are worked separately and sewn onto the jacket.

PART-1 (left front piece and back piece):
Cast on 87-91-91-95-99-99 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and off white (= the armhole of the garment. The shoulder seam is sewn later).
Work STRIPES – see description above.
On row 1 (= right side) insert 3 markers in the piece as follows: Work 42-44-44-46-48-48 stitches, work the next stitch and insert the first marker in that stitch, work 1 stitch and insert the 2nd marker in that stitch (= the side of the jacket and the point of the domino), work 1 stitch and insert the 3rd marker in that stitch, work 42-44-44-46-48-48 stitches. The markers sit in the middle 3 stitches in the piece. The markers are to follow the piece as you work. Continue working DOMINO SQUARE – see description above (first row is worked with off white from wrong side). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 13-15-17-20-23-27 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4"-8"-9"-10½" measured at the shortest at the end/beginning of the row. The last row should be from wrong side. Bind off for the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= Right side): bind off the first 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches for the neck on the front piece and work domino to the end of the row as before.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): bind off the first 6 stitches for the neck on the back piece and work domino to the end of the row as before.
ROW 3: Knit the first 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch decreased for the neck on the front piece), work domino to the end of the row as before.
ROW 4: Work domino.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the piece measures 18-20-22-24-27-29 cm / 7"-8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10½"-11½" at the shortest – finish with 1 whole stripe with ocean view.
Now divide the piece into 4 parts.
Work with ocean view from the right side as follows:
Knit to and including the stitch with the first marker, place these stitches on 1 thread (= stitches towards mid front – here the band will be worked = part-10), knit to and including the stitch with the 2nd marker, place these stitches on a 2nd thread (= diagonal line on the front piece from mid front to the side, these stitches will be worked together with an edge = part-9), knit to and including the stitch with the 3rd marker, place these stitches on a 3rd thread (= diagonal line on the back piece from the side up to mid back, these stitches will be worked together with an edge = part-8), change to off white and knit to end of the row (= stitches mid back, you will now continue working these stitches back and forth = part-2). There are now stitches on 3 different threads and the remaining stitches are on the needle. Now part-2 is worked back and forth over the stitches on the needle.

PART-2 (left mid back):
Continue to work stripes (row 1 = wrong side) until the piece measures 22-24-26-30-33-37 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13"-14½" measured from the cast-on edge and horizontally towards mid back. Finish with 1 whole stripe with ocean view.
bind off loosely with ocean view (this is mid back and here part-2 will later be sewn together with part-4).
Lay the piece to one side and work the right part of the jacket as follows:

PART-3 (right front piece and back piece):
Cast on and work as for part-1 until the piece measures 13-15-17-20-23-27 cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4"-8"-9"-10½"' at the shortest. The last row is from the wrong side. Now bind off for the neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): bind off the first 6 stitches for the neck on the back piece and work domino to end of the row as before.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): bind off the first 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches for the neck on the front piece and work domino to end of row as before.
ROW 3: Work domino.
ROW 4: Knit the first 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch decreased for the neck on the front piece), work domino to end of row as before.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the piece measures 18-20-22-24-27-29 cm / 7"-8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10½"-11½" at the shortest – make sure that length and stripes match part-1.
Cut the strands.
Now divide the piece into 4 parts.
Work with off white from the right side as follows:
Knit to and including the stitch with the first marker (= stitches mid back, you will continue to work back and forth over these stitches = part-4), change to ocean view, knit to and including the stitch with the 2nd marker, place these stitches on 1 thread (= diagonal line on the back piece from mid back to the side, these stitches will be worked together with an edge = part-6, the marker marks the side of the jacket), knit to and including the stitch with the 3rd marker, place these stitches on a 2nd thread (= diagonal line on the front piece from the side to mid front, these stitches will be worked together with an edge = part-5), knit to end of row and then place these stitches on a 3rd thread (= stitches towards mid front – here you will work a band = part-11).
The stitches are now on 3 different threads and the remaining stitches are on the needle.

PART-4 (right mid back):
Continue working as for part-2.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew part-2 together with part-4 with ocean view – see the broken line in A.1, in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

EDGE OF JACKET:
The edge at the bottom is started mid front and is worked along the right front piece (part-5), right back piece (part-6) and continued along mid back (part-7), left back piece (part-8) and left front piece (part-9).
Cast on 52-54-60-66-72-82 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and off white.
PART-5 (edge on right front piece):
The edge is worked together with the stitches between the 3rd and 2nd marker on part-3 (i.e. from mid front and down to the tip of the domino). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 twisted together, knit 2 twisted together and knit to end of row (= 1 stitch decreased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, place the first/next 2 stitches from the thread back on the needle, knit 3 stitches together. The edge is now worked together with the first/next 2 stitches from part-3.
Change to ocean view.
ROW 3: Work as for row 1.
Work short rows over the edge as follows:
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 7 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 8: Work as for row 2.
Change to off white.
Repeat rows 1-8 until all the stitches from mid front and down to the tip have been worked to the edge.

PART-6 (edge on right back piece):
The edge is worked to the stitches between the 2nd and first markers on part-3 (i.e. from the tip of the domino and up to mid back).
Work as follows with off white:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to end of row (= 1 stitch increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, place the first/next 2 stitches from the thread back on the needle and knit 3 stitches together. The edge is now worked together with the first/next 2 stitches from the right back piece.
Change to ocean view.
ROW 3: Work as for row 1.
Work short rows over the edge as follows:
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 7 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 8: Work as for row 2.
Change to off white.
Repeat rows 1-8 until all the stitches from the tip to mid back have been worked together with the edge.

PART-7 (edge mid back):
Place 1 marker in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Now work short rows back and forth over the stitches from the edge as follows (i.e. they are not worked together with stitches from part-1 or part-3):
Continue with stripes as before, adjust color according to the stripes.
Change to ocean view.
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit.
Knit short rows over the edge as follows:
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, turn the piece.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 6: Knit.
Change to off white.
ROWS 7 AND 8: Knit.
Repeat rows 1-8 until the piece measures 8-8-8-12-12-16 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-6 1/4" at the shortest, adjust the measurement with part-2 and part-4, they will be sewn together later.

PART-8 (edge on left back piece):
The edge is worked together with the stitches between the 3rd and 2nd marker on part-1 (i.e. from mid back and down to the tip of the domino).
Work as for part-5 until all the stitches from mid back and down to the tip of the domino have been worked together with the edge.

PART-9 (edge on the left front piece):
The edge is worked together with the stitches between the 2nd and first marker on part-1 (i.e. from the tip of the domino and up to mid front). Work as for part-6 until all the stitches from the tip to mid front have been worked together with the edge.

PART-10 (rest of left front piece and left band):
Place the stitches from the first thread on part-1 (= left front piece mid front) back on the needle (i.e. there are now stitches from the edge and stitches from the thread on the needle). Insert 1 marker in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work band as follows in the different sizes (the jacket in the picture shows size XL):
SIZES S-M-L:
Work garter stitch with ocean view until the piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Loosely bind off.
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL:
Continue with stipes and decrease for the neck (as for part-1) at the beginning of every row from the right side, by knitting the 2 first stitches twisted together. Repeat the decreases until the piece measures 2-2-4 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-1½''. Work garter stitch with ocean view for 4 cm / 1½'' (= band). Loosely bind off.

PART-11 (the rest of the right front piece and right band):
Insert 1 marker in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Work stripes as for part-3. Knit up 52-54-60-66-72-82 stitches along part-5 (= the edge on the right front piece) from the right side with ocean view, work the stitches from the thread mid front on part-3 (= right front piece mid front) back onto the needle. Knit 1 row from the wrong side – read BUTTONHOLE. Knit band as follows in the different sizes:
SIZES S-M-L:
Work as for part-10.
SIZES XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work as for part-10, but decrease for the neck at the start of each row from the wrong side.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked back and forth in garter stitch and stripes. Cast on 54-54-56-56-58-58 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and ocean view (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece). When the piece measures 6-5-6-8-6-6 cm / 2½"-2"-2½"-3"-2½"-2½'' increase 1 stitch with 1 yarn over inside the 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted. Increase in this way every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8'' a total of 16-18-17-19-20-20 times = 86-90-90-94-98-98 stitches. Work until the piece measures 34-33-32-30-28-27 cm / 13½"-13"-12½"-11 3/4"-11"-10½'' (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders), adjust so that the last stripe is with off white. Bind off. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
See broken lines in A.1. Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams and sew the sleeves into the armholes. Sew part-7 together with part-2 and part-4 (= 8-8-8-12-12-16 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-6 1/4'' horizontal seam).

NECKLINE:
Pick up 160-180 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and ocean view. Work 3 ridges back and forth on the needle – remember BUTTONHOLE. Bind off. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.06.2017
This pattern has been re-written.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = start here on bottom edge
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = this is an approximate measurement; the measurement is dependent on how many stitches have been increased on the domino
symbols = parts 1-11 – see text
symbols = the markers inserted on the first row in part-1 and part-3 mark the increase in the domino square
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 161-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (157)

country flag Birgitta Mattsson 07.12.2020 - 15:42:

Vad är det för svar?? Läs mönstret? Självklart har jag gjort det, men det blir fel! Jag får inte den ökning av antalet maskor över dominorutan som vare sig bilden eller skissen visar! 48 maskor före dominorutan rakt över alla varv ger inte den diagonala överkanten på dominorutan!

user icon DROPS Design 08.12.2020 kl. 08:00:

Hej Birgitta, beklager! jeg læste dit spørgsmål som at du var usikker på vinklen og mange ser ikke at vi har en skitse nederst i opskriften. Men jeg kan se på Facebook at du har fundet ud af opskriften. Rigtig god fornøjelse!

country flag Birgitta 28.11.2020 - 18:59:

Jag tycker att det känns som att mönstret är fel. Jag föl jer XXL och har markören efter 48 m, stickar ökningar för dominorutan och sedan de resterande 48 m. Bilden visar en ruta vars överkant går diagonat nedåt och det ser ut som att antalet maskor från axeln ner till rutan hela tiden ökar. Följer jag mönstret får jag inte denna effekt eftersom det alltid är 48m innan/efter rutan. På mitt arbete blir överkanten i 90 grader mot mitt fram/bak??

user icon DROPS Design 07.12.2020 kl. 11:58:

Hej Birgitta, du ser i skitsen nederst i mönstret hvordan de forskellige stykker skal strikkes og du ser alle vinklerne. God fornøjelse!

country flag Caroline Pyne 26.08.2020 - 22:00:

Thank you for your response, but I don't understand how I incorporate the stitches remaining on the yarn. Are these the stitches I cast on at the beginning? Is there another, more detailed, source I can go to?

user icon DROPS Design 27.08.2020 kl. 10:06:

Dear Mrs Pyne, cast on the new stitches for edge (= 52 to 82 sts see size), and work part-5 over these stitches + at the end of the 2nd row knit together the last st of edge (on left needle) with the first 2 stitches from domino (on the thread) = K3 tog = 2 sts from domino are now decreased/attached to 1 st of the bottom edge. Work row 3 to 7 (with short rows to make the bottom edge larger at the bottom) and repeat row 2 on row 8 so that the next 2 sts on thread/domino are worked together with the last stitch on bottom edge. Continue like this until all sts to the tip has been worked together with the last stitch on the edge. Happy knitting!

country flag Caroline Pyne 26.08.2020 - 04:54:

I am ready to do the jacket edge. I am completely Confused, after cast on. I know i am supposed to start incorporating the stitches on the yarn at this point, but i do not understand at all. Is there a video or written instructions you can point me to that i will make it easier? I consider myself an advanced knitter And in no way would i class this pattern as "intermediate". But as soon as i get help i will carry on. I love this pattern.

user icon DROPS Design 26.08.2020 kl. 08:30:

Dear Mrs Pyne, the bottom edge is worked sideways - see A.1 (from part 5 to 9), this means on part 5 you will repeat the 8 rows until you reach the tip of the domino, then work part-6 repeating the 8 rows of this part until mid back, then work part-7 repeating the 8 rows for 8-16 cm (mid back), then work part-8 etc... at the same time, you will either decrease or increase stitches (depending on the side of domino you are working) and working stitches from the domino together with the sts of the edge to attach the edge. Hope this will help, happy knitting!

country flag Lena Lindberg 13.01.2020 - 19:18:

Jag har precis börjat, och stickat ett antal varv, kanske fem cm på vänster framstycke, när jag inser att jag kanske SAMTIDIGT skulle sticka dominorutan? Eller? Med vilka stickor då? Först har jag trott att jag skall sticka 20cm (XL) med ränder och hålla på med framstycket i lugn och ro, men jag ser inte när dominorutan kommer in . Hur är det tänkt?

user icon DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 10:50:

Hei Lena. Ja, du skal strikke DOMINORUTE samtidig (1. pinne fra vrangen). Les under DEL-1 og DOMINORUTE 1.-10. pinne. Du bruker samme pinner. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Åsa 22.11.2019 - 21:14:

Hej igen! Jag har fuktat, blockat, provat olika stickor med 0.25 millimeters skillnad i storlek men får ändå inte till den kombination av mask- och varvantal som det står i mönstret. Har också låtit några vänner sticka provlappar. Resultatet blir för oss alla att 21 maskor ger 44-45 varv för 10 x 10 cm. Hur kan det bli så stor skillnad från vad som anges i mönstret och är det någon idé att försöka sticka efter det här mönstret då?

user icon DROPS Design 03.12.2019 kl. 13:55:

Hej Åsa, ja du skall följa antal cm i mönstret, så om du får 21 m på 10 cm i bredden , så vill det fungera. Lycka till :)

country flag Åsa 19.11.2019 - 19:10:

För mig blir 10x10 cm 21 maskor men 44 varv och inte 40 som det ska vara enligt beskrivningen. Ändrar jag storlek på stickorna för att få rätt antal varv så blir maskantalet fel. Eftersom man stickar dominorutor är det kanske extra viktigt att både maskantal och varv stämmer. Hur ska jag tänka?

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2019 kl. 14:27:

Hei Åsa! Har du dampet prøvelappen din? Strikkefastheten kan forandre seg etter man damper arbeidet, om ikke det hjelper kan det hjelpe å stramme tråden mindre mens man strikker. Lykke til!

country flag Annelie Paulsson 30.09.2019 - 20:38:

Hej kan ni förklara i dominorutan. ska omslagen vara före markören eller efter??

user icon DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 15:12:

Hej Annelie, markören sitter mellan maskorna och omslaget skall göras mellan maskorna, det är kanske enklast om du gör dom efter markören....

country flag Anne-Mette Olsen 23.06.2019 - 16:55:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke at højre forstykke skal strikkes som venstre. Skal indtagninger ikke være spejlvendte? Mvh Anne-Mette

user icon DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 07:39:

Hei Anne-Mette. Du strikker som venstre forstykke til arbeidet måler 13-15-17-20-23-27 cm på det korteste. Du har ikke begynt med fellinger enda. Fellingene til hals er forklart under hvert stykke for seg. God fornøyelse

country flag Birgit Peters 31.05.2019 - 08:42:

Hallo! Ich möchte diese Jacke anfangen, kann mir aber noch nicht vorstellen, wo die Löcher in der Mitte hingehören. Auf den Fotos sind die nirgendwo zu erkennen.

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 10:10:

Liebe Frau Peters, die Löcher bei dem Domino sind: vor dem Domino (Vorderteil), in der Mitte = Seite und nach dem Domino (Rückenteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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