DROPS / 160 / 7

Timeless Beauty by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Timeless Beauty / DROPS 160-7 - Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-081
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 1306, powder

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st or 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 2.85 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 2.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle. Rounds start mid back. The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 120-128-144-148-148-164 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Now work PATTERN A.1, AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd round inc 18-20-30-32-32-34 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP, and on 11th round inc 15-19-29-29-29-33 sts evenly = 153-167-203-209-209-231 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked vertically, continue in garter st and insert 10 markers in the piece as follows: Work the first 9-12-12-15-15-12 sts, insert a marker, then insert a marker 15-16-20-20-20-23 sts apart, after last marker there are 9-11-11-14-14-12 sts. On next round beg inc. Inc alternately on right and left side of markers (= 10 inc). Inc every other round 0-2-0-3-7-7 times, every 4th round 10-10-9-9-8-8 times and every 6th round 5-5-7-7-7-8 times = 303-337-363-399-429-461 sts. On next round, inc 8-4-10-2-4-10 sts evenly = 311-341-373-401-433-471 sts. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Now work as follows: K the first 45-50-55-60-66-74 sts(= half back piece), slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 89-97-111-121-133-147 sts (= front piece), slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 45-50-55-60-66-74 sts (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 199-217-241-265-289-319 sts for body. Now switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work as follows: A.2, A.3 until 6 sts remain, A.4. When A.2-A.4 have been worked vertically, continue with A.5 (on 7th round K the last st). Continue with A.6, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round adjust no of sts to 204-216-240-264-288-324. When A.6 has been worked vertically, continue with A.7 1 time vertically. Then work A.8, inc 4-8-8-8-8-4 sts evenly on 1st round = 208-224-248-272-296-328 sts. When A.X has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.X 0-0-0-0-1-1 more time before continuing with the rest of A.8. Now continue with A.7. Then work as follows: A.2, A.3 until 6 sts remain on round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 3-5-5-5-5-3 sts evenly on 1st round (over A.3), A.4 = 211-229-253-277-301-331 sts. Now work A.7 0-0-1-1-0-0 times vertically (on 5th round K last st on round). When entire diagram has been worked vertically, work 2 rounds in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 17-21-23-25-25-27 sts evenly = 228-250-276-302-326-358 sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work in garter st for 2 cm. Cast off alternately with K 1 and P 1. Piece measures approx. 54-55-58-59-65-66 cm.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above, on circular needle. There are 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts for each sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 2.5 mm and cast on 6-6-6-7-7-7 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 78-84-88-94-98-102 sts. When sleeve measures 4 cm, dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece by K 2 tog. Repeat dec every 1½-2-2½-3-3½-3½ cm 7-6-5-4-3-3 more times = 62-70-76-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 19 cm in all sizes, work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.9 until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st. When entire A.9 have been worked vertically, work 1 ridge. Loosely cast off.
Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, 1 YO
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = inc round: Inc sts evenly - see explanation in pattern.
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Christine 24.08.2021 - 17:26:

Bonjour, Lorsque l'on monte 10 mailles sous la manche, doit-on couper le fil de la pelote avec laquelle on a travaillé ou doit-on prendre une nouvelle pelote ? Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 25.08.2021 kl. 07:10:

Bonjour Christine, ce n'est pas nécessaire, montez simplement ces 10 mailles à la suite des mailles tricotées (et avant les autres à tricoter), cette leçon montre, à partir de la photo 9. comment mettre les mailles des manches en attente et comment monter les mailles sous la manche. Bon tricot!

country flag Jose Lendering 15.03.2021 - 17:56:

Dit patroon is niet meer compleet: er ontbreken telpatronen. Kunnen de telpatronen weer teruggeplaatst? Ik ben bijna klaar met t lijfgedeelte...

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2021 kl. 11:44:

Dag José,

Als het goed is laden alle afbeeldingen nu weer goed op de site, dus zouden de telpatronen ook goed in beeld moeten komen. (Er was afgelopen week een stroring met het laden van afbeeldingen.).

country flag Christine 15.03.2021 - 17:18:

Je viens de placer les 10 marqueurs. Est ce que je peux faire les augmentations avec 1 jeté ? Merci pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Christine, tout à fait, c'est bien ainsi que l'on va augmenter, pensez à bien tricoter les jetés torse au tour suivant pour éviter des trous. Bon tricot!

country flag Bamalu 29.12.2020 - 16:56:

Zunahme Passe: "abwechselnd an der rechten und linken Seite aller Markierer". Bedeutet "rechte Seite" eine M zunehmen vor dem Markierer? Oder zu Beginn bzw. am Ende der M zwischen zwei Markierern?

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 11:50:

Liebe Bamalu, das erste Mal nehmen Sie 1 Masche vor jeder Markierung (= an der rechten Seite der Markierung); das nächste Mal nehmen Sie 1 Masche nach jeder Markierung (= an der linken Seite der Markieurng) und so weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Christine Smith 14.12.2020 - 00:20:

First sweater ever. I have run the numbers in my head every which way, and it does not add up. If one casts on 144 sts, and increases EVENLY by 30 sts, one would need to increase every 4.8 sts which does not add up. Even numbers to 30 sts are 120 or 150. Can you tell me at what stitch I should start increasing and how many stitches between increases please? Thank you, sweater looks beautiful, looking forward to your answer so I can get beyond line 5! :)

user icon DROPS Design 14.12.2020 kl. 09:44:

Dear Mrs Smith, this lesson explains how to increase evenly on a round. Happy knitting!

country flag Annie Pang 01.12.2020 - 23:56:

Thank you for your prompt reply to my question regarding ROW 5 of A2 A3 and A4. There is a K2tog between A2 and A3 so how can I knit 7 in A2? I need to either count the stitch either on A2 or A3 since I cannot split them? Pls help !!

user icon DROPS Design 02.12.2020 kl. 07:57:

Dear Mrs Pang, on row 5 work the last 2 stitches in A.2 together with the first stitch next A.3 (= the yarn over + the dec = the last 2 sts of A.2), then work the last 2 sts in A.3 together with the first stitch next A.3/A.4 (at the end of the round) the same way - you should still always have the same number of sts in each diagram/repeat. Happy knitting!

country flag Annie Pang 01.12.2020 - 11:25:

For A2, A3, A4 ROW5, (I am knitting size M) does it means the final count would be 5 + (9x23) + 5 = 217 ??

user icon DROPS Design 01.12.2020 kl. 16:54:

Dear Mrs Pang, when working diagrams A.2, A.3 A.4, work: A.2 = 7 sts, repeat A.3 a total of 34 times (= over the next 204 sts) and finish round wiht A.4 (= 6 sts) = 7 + 204 + 6 = 217sts. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

country flag Diana 15.10.2020 - 15:40:

Hola.dime por favor las mangas se tejen con aguja 2.5mm ? 3mm?

user icon DROPS Design 15.10.2020 kl. 20:12:

Hola Diana. La manga se trabaja en punto musgo, por lo tanto, se trabaja con la aguja de 2,5 mm

country flag Claudia 02.10.2020 - 12:28:

Liebes Drops Team, wie ist das gemeint mit den Zunahmen. In jeder 4. Runde 9x und in jeder 6. Runde 7x zunehmen . Bedeutet das nun in jeder 4. Runde 9x zunehmen und danach in jeder 6.Runde zunehmen oder wird zeitgleich in der 4.u. 6. Runde zugenommen? Danke für Ihre Hilfe

user icon DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 11:55:

Liebe Claudia, es wird zuerst in jeder 4. Runde insgesamt 9 Mal zugenommen, dann wird es in jeder 6. Runde insgesamt 7 Mal zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Lorna MacGregor 24.09.2020 - 23:16:

I have used 3 skeins (50g) for the yoke, and have 5 remaining for Size L. Will I have enough to finish the sweater? Thank you, Lorna

user icon DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs MacGregor, are you using DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk? Do you have and did you keep the right tension? Then you should have enough yarn in your size - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

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