DROPS Baby / 25 / 21

Heartthrob by DROPS Design

Crochet baby jacket with round yoke and pocket edges in DROPS Alpaca. Size 0 – 4 years.

  • Heartthrob / DROPS Baby 25-21 - Crochet baby jacket with round yoke and pocket edges in DROPS Alpaca. Size 0 – 4 years.
DROPS design: Pattern no z-091-by
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 52-56-60 (64-68) cm / 20½"-22"-23½" (25 1/4"-26 3/4")
Full length: 28-30-33 (36-40) cm / 11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4")

DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g color no 8105, light steel blue
50 g for all sizes in color no 100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C or D – or size needed to get 24 sts in width x 16 rows PATTERN (see explanation below) vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 5-5-6 (6-6) pieces

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Beg every sc row with 1 ch and beg every dc row with 3 ch – these do NOT replace first sc/dc on row.

ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 dc in every sc.
ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 sc in every dc.

Dec 1 sc/dc by working 2 sts tog.
Work 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

Worked back and forth from mid front.
Work 140-153-162 (171-185) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue. READ CROCHET TIP!
Work back as follows (= RS): 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 3-7-7 (7-3) ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 8 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 124-136-144 (152-164) sc.
Continue with PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 17-18-20 (22-25) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8" (8 3/4"-9 3/4"), put piece aside – finish after 1 row with dc (= WS). Continue with sleeves.

Work back and forth and sew tog mid under afterwards. Work 42-42-44 (46-49) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue.
Work back as follows (= RS): 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 5-5-7 (9-5) ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 36-36-38 (40-42) sc.
Continue with PATTERN - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in second and next to last st. Repeat inc every 2-2-2 (2-3) rows 5-7-8 (9-10) more times (= 6-8-9 (10-11) inc in total) = 48-52-56 (60-64) sts.
When piece measures 13-15-17 (21-25) cm / 5"-6"-6 3/4" (8 1/4"-9 3/4"), put piece aside – finish after 1 row with dc (= WS). Work another sleeve.

Work first row from RS as follows: 1 sc in each of the first 26-29-31 (33-36) sts on right front piece, skip the first 5 sts on one sleeve, then work 1 sc in each of the next 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on sleeve, skip 10 sts on body, work 1 sc in each of the next 52-58-62 (66-72) sts, skip the first 5 sts on next sleeve, work 1 sc in each of the next 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on sleeve, skip 10 sts on body and work 1 sc in each of the last 26-29-31 (33-36) sts = 180-200-216 (232-252) sts in total. Now insert 12-13-14 (14-14) markers in the piece as follows: First after 13-10-11 (12-9) sts, there should then be 14-15-15 (16-18) sts between markers, after last marker there are 13-10-10 (12-9) sts.
Continue with PATTERN as before - AT THE SAME TIME on next row (= dc) dec 1 st BEFORE all markers by working 2 dc tog - READ DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec every 4 rows 1-1-2 (2-2) more times (= 2-2-3 (3-3) dec in total) - but next time dec AFTER all markers, then dec alternately before and after upwards.
Then dec every other row 5-5-4 (4-5) times and finally every row 2-3-3 (4-4) times. After all dec are done, 72-70-76 (78-84) sts remain.
Work 1 row while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-11-14 (13-16) sts evenly = 56-59-62 (65-68) sts, fasten off.

Work 6 rows sc with off white at the bottom around each sleeve - beg from WS. Then sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

Work 3 rows with sc along right band with off white - beg from RS. On 2nd row (= WS) work 5-5-6 (6-6) buttonholes evenly. 1 buttonhole = ch 2, skip 2 sc. Top buttonhole should be after 1 sc from the top, there should then be approx. 5-5-5 (6-6) cm / 2"-2"-2" (2½"-2½") between each buttonhole.
On 3rd row work 2 sc over each of the 2 ch for buttonholes. Work 2 rows with sc, fasten off.

Work 6 rows sc with off white as on right band but without buttonholes.

Work 3 rows sc with off white - beg from WS.
Sew on buttons.

Ch 13-14-15 (16-17) loosely with off white on hook size 3 mm.
Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 12-13-14 (15-16) sc in total. Then work 3-3-3 (4-4) more rows with sc, to make a total of 4-4-4 (5-5) rows, fasten off.
Work another pocket edge. Sew 1 pocket edge on to each front piece – approx. 6-7-8 (9-10) cm / 2½''-2¾''-3'' (3½''-4'') from bottom edge and approx. 4-4-5 (5-6) cm / 1½"-1½"-2" (2½"-2½") from mid front – sew neatly along bottom edge and in each side (there should be an opening at the top).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.12.2017
New yarn amount in size 2 years DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio 100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 8105, light steel blue


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Maria 15.11.2020 - 10:57:

Jag förstår inte första raden på oket. Ska ärmarna virkas ihop med stycket på något sätt? Sys fast? De här 29 maskorna som ska virkas på ärmen, virkas de tillsammans ihop med fram och bakstycket?

user icon DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 09:06:

Hei Maria. Ja, ermene hekles sammen med oket på 1. omgang på oket. Str. 6/9 mnd = 136 m på bolen og 52 m på hvert erme. Du starter oket med å hekle 29 masker på høyre forstykket, deretter hekle 1. erme fast til oket. Hopp over de 5 første maskene på ermet og hekle deretter de neste 42 m, hopp over 5 m (du har nå heklet 42 masker på ermet og hoppet over 10 m = 52 m og heklet ermet fast i oket). Nå hekler du bakstykket = 58 m, så skal du hekle 2. erme på samme måte som 1. erme og deretter venstre forstykket. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Sophie 21.08.2020 - 22:46:

Bonjour, j'aime beaucoup ce modèle que je fais en 12-18 mois, mais j'ai un soucis avec les manches. Avec le patron, 1 manche mesure 4cm + 9 rang de points fantaisies avec 1 augmentation 1 rang sur 2, soit au total 5,8 cm environ. Or il est indiqué de mettre en attente à 17 cm de hauteur. Faut continuer en point fantaisie jusqu'à 17cm? Et comment connaître la largeur à obtenir après les augmentations ? Merci beaucoup.

user icon DROPS Design 24.08.2020 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Sophie, vous augmentez tous les 2 rangs, donc vous avez bien 18 rangs d'augmentations qui doivent vous donner environ 11 cm (cf échantillon: 16 rangs point fantaisie = 10 cm) + 4 cm de bordure de manche = 15 cm- Continuez jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 17 cm - en arrêtant bien après un rang de brides (en fonction de votre tension, crochetez 1 rang supplémentaire ou en moins si besoin pour que ce rang soit bien un rang de brides). Bon crochet!

country flag Karolína 29.12.2019 - 08:18:

Dobrý den, návod je asi napsaný srozumitelně, budu podle vás hackovat poprvé, tak jsem sama zvědavá, jestli to zvládnu. Každopádně mi není jasný jeden důležitý detail a to, jestli se to hackuje krátkými sloupky nebo dlouhými. V popisu se opakuje KS a třeba u trupu i rukávů je na konci píše, že se má končit DS rubovou stranou. Poradíte mi prosím?

user icon DROPS Design 29.12.2019 kl. 12:15:

Dobrý den, Karolíno, určitě zvládnete :-)! Kabátek je háčkovaný vzorkem, kde se střídají řady krátkých a dlouhých sloupků (viz odstavec VZOR na začátku návodu), proto díly končí řadou DS. Hodně zdaru! Hana

country flag Kristina Åbrodd 09.12.2019 - 19:02:

Avmaskning på oket stämmer inte alls. Avståndet mellan markörerna får man planera själv. Själva beskrivningen av avmaskningen mycket rörig, svårt att förstå vad ni menar med. ” men nästa gång ” Ärmarnas fäste vid koftan nämns inte alls.

country flag Emelie 22.09.2019 - 22:14:

Hej! Jag undrar när jag ska hö 1 maska, så försvinner ju maskorna med alla varv man ska göra fram och tillbaka. Ska man bara "hoppa över" maskan och göra en fm i nästa eller ska man göra en luft maska när man hoppar över? Till FRAM- OCH BAKST

user icon DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 08:51:

Hej Emilie, det er kun på første række du hopper over masker. Efter den fortsætter du med MØNSTER. God fornøjelse!

country flag Ann-Kristin 23.01.2019 - 18:08:

Hei. Stusser litt over hekletips hvor det står at hver omg starter med henholdsvis 1/3 lm, men at disse IKKE skal erstatte første fm/st. Ser flere har kommentert dette og fått til svar at det alltid skal starte slik og at dette erstatter første fm/st. Skal det erstatte eller ikke? Fint om oppskriften korrigeres slik at det fremgår klart.

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 07:26:

Hei Ann-Kristin. Hekletipset stemmer, på starten av hver omgang hekler du 1 eller 3 luftmasker i tillegg til fastmaskene/stavene på omgangen. Du hekler da ikke en stav/fastmaske i disse luftmaskene på neste omagang - du hekler alltid over de samme 124-136-144 (152-164) maskene frem til arbeidet måler 17-18-20 (22-25) cm. God fornøyelse

country flag Ulrike 12.01.2019 - 14:47:

Vielen Dank für die schöne Anleitung! Sehr verständlich geschrieben. Ich habe nur eine Anmerkung: im Raglanteil ganz am Ende wenn in jeder Reihe Maschen abgenommen werden sollte man das in Häkelrichtung im er vor dem Markierer machen

country flag Sylvia 20.08.2018 - 16:22:

Zu Ihrem Feedback vom 15.07.2014 : " Zunächst arbeiten Sie die Abnahmen in jeder 4. R, danach in jeder 2. R und zuletzt in jeder R. ". Wie oft bzw. bis wann soll man in jeder 4. Reihe abnehmen und wie lange in jeder zweiten und wie lange in jeder Reihe? Es müssen ja noch 98 Maschen abgenommen werden (bei Große 86)

user icon DROPS Design 27.08.2018 kl. 11:13:

Liebe Sylvia, die Abnahmen arbeiten Sie in Gr. 86 in jeder 4. R insgesamt 3 x, (1 Abnahme-R, 3 R ohne Abnahmen, 1 Abnahme-R, 3 R ohne Abnahmen, 1 Abnahme-R), dann in jeder 2. R 4 x, danach in jeder R 3 x. Es werden dabei 14 M pro Abnahme-R abgenommen, also insgesamt werden an den Markierern 140 M abgenommen, vorher hatten Sie 216 M, danach 76 M. Danach nehmen Sie noch 14 M gleichmäßig verteilt ab = 62 M.

country flag Iris 15.07.2018 - 09:48:

Ich weiss nicht wie ich auf die 180 Maschen kommen so, wenn ich nach Angabe stricke bei dem raglan die erste Reihe vor der Markierung.

user icon DROPS Design 16.07.2018 kl. 08:48:

Liebe Iris, Sie haben 124 M für den Rumpfteil und 48 M für jeden Ärmel = 220 M. Dann häkeln Sie: 26 M (re. Vorderteil), *38 M (= Ärmel, dh die 5 ersten und die 5 letzten M sind nicht gehäkelt), die nächste 10 M am Rumpfteil überspringen (diese Maschen werden dann mit den 10 M vom Ärmel später zsgenäht)*, 52 M für den Rückenteil, von *-* noch einmal wiederholen und die letzte 26 M für den li Vorderteil häkeln = 180 M. Viel spaß beim häkeln!

country flag MalinMin 20.04.2018 - 21:28:

Ska virka den minsta storleken. Enligt diagram ska koftan vara 26cm över framstycket (totalt 52cm). Har bytt nål från 3 till 2,5 men koftan blir ändå för stor. 124 maskor är virkade och inga ökningar har gjorts. Så som jag virkat blir koftan stor som till 9/12 månaders baby. Är ngt i mönstret fel eller ska jag byta till en ännu mindre nål för att få rätt storlek? Virkar jag med nr3 blir det den största stl oavstt hur jag gör.

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2018 kl. 07:47:

Hej Malin, virkar du koftan i DROPS Alpaca? Virka ett litet prov och se till att du har 24 m på 10 cm i bredden innan du fortsätter. När du har det får du måtten du ser i måttskissen. Lycka till :)

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