DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS Baby 25-21
DROPS design: Pattern no z-091-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 8105, light steel blue
50 g for all sizes in colour no 100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts in width x 16 rows PATTERN (see explanation below) vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 5-5-6 (6-6) pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
CROCHET TIP:
Beg every dc row with 1 ch and beg every tr row with 3 ch – these do NOT replace first dc/tr on row.

PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 tr in every dc.
ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 dc in every tr.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc/tr by working 2 sts tog.
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Work 140-153-162 (171-185) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue. READ CROCHET TIP! Work back as follows (= RS): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 dc in each of the next 3-7-7 (7-3) ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 8 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 124-136-144 (152-164) dc. Continue with PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 17-18-20 (22-25) cm, put piece aside – finish after 1 row with tr (= WS). Continue with sleeves.
SLEEVE:
Work back and forth and sew tog mid under afterwards. Work 42-42-44 (46-49) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue.
Work back as follows (= RS): 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 dc in each of the next 5-5-7 (9-5) ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 36-36-38 (40-42) dc. Continue with PATTERN - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in second and next to last st. Repeat inc every 2-2-2 (2-3) rows 5-7-8 (9-10) more times (= 6-8-9 (10-11) inc in total) = 48-52-56 (60-64) sts. When piece measures 13-15-17 (21-25) cm, put piece aside – finish after 1 row with tr (= WS). Work another sleeve.

YOKE:
Work first row from RS as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 26-29-31 (33-36) sts on right front piece, skip the first 5 sts on one sleeve, then work 1 dc in each of the next 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on sleeve, skip 10 sts on body, work 1 dc in each of the next 52-58-62 (66-72) sts, skip the first 5 sts on next sleeve, work 1 dc in each of the next 38-42-46 (50-54) sts on sleeve, skip 10 sts on body and work 1 dc in each of the last 26-29-31 (33-36) sts = 180-200-216 (232-252) sts in total. Now insert 12-13-14 (14-14) markers in the piece as follows: First after 13-10-11 (12-9) sts, there should then be 14-15-15 (16-18) sts between markers, after last marker there are 13-10-10 (12-9) sts. Continue with PATTERN as before - AT THE SAME TIME on next row (= tr) dec 1 st BEFORE all markers by working 2 tr tog - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4 rows 1-1-2 (2-2) more times (= 2-2-3 (3-3) dec in total) - but next time dec AFTER all markers, then dec alternately before and after upwards. Then dec every other row 5-5-4 (4-5) times and finally every row 2-3-3 (4-4) times. After all dec are done, 72-70-76 (78-84) sts remain. Work 1 row while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-11-14 (13-16) sts evenly = 56-59-62 (65-68) sts, fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Work 6 rows dc with off white at the bottom around each sleeve - beg from WS. Then sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

RIGHT BAND:
Work 3 rows with dc along right band with off white - beg from RS. On 2nd row (= WS) work 5-5-6 (6-6) buttonholes evenly. 1 buttonhole = 2 ch, skip 2 dc. Top buttonhole should be after 1 dc from the top, there should then be approx. 5-5-5 (6-6) cm between each buttonhole. On 3rd row work 2 dc over each of the 2 ch for buttonholes. Work 2 rows with dc, fasten off.

LEFT BAND:
Work 6 rows dc with off white as on right band but without buttonholes.

NECK EDGE:
Work 3 rows dc with off white - beg from WS.
Sew on buttons.

POCKET EDGE:
Work 13-14-15 (16-17) loose ch with off white on hook size 3 mm.
Turn and work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook and then work 1 dc in every ch the entire row = 12-13-14 (15-16) dc in total. Then work 3-3-3 (4-4) more rows with dc, to make a total of 4-4-4 (5-5) rows, fasten off. Work another pocket edge. Sew 1 pocket edge on to each front piece – approx. 6-7-8 (9-10) cm from bottom edge and approx. 4-4-5 (5-6) cm from mid front – sew neatly along bottom edge and in each side (there should be an opening at the top).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.12.2017
New yarn amount in size 2 years
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 8105, light steel blue

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Anja wrote:

Guten Tag, In der Anleitung beim Raglan steht man soll fm in das rechte Vorderteil häkeln. Nun stellt sich mir die Frage, wo das recht Vorderteil sein soll. Ist damit das Rumpfteil gemeint? Vielen Dank

21.11.2024 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, das rechte Vorderteil besteht aus die ersten 26-36 Maschen (siehe Größe) vom Rumpfteil. Viel Spaß eim Häkeln!

21.11.2024 - 15:50

country flag Leire Perret wrote:

Bonjour, Je n'arrive pas a placer les marqueurs. Je fais le modele en 12/18 mois. J'ai bien 216 mailles, mais bizarrement je n'arrive à placer que 13 marqueurs, et après le dernier marqueur je me retrouve avec 12 mailles... Lorsque vous dites "on doit avoir ensuite 14-15-15 (16-18) m entre chaque marqueur" faut il placer le marqueur à la 15eme maille ou a la 16eme? Merci de votre aide

17.02.2023 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Perret, il faut placer les marqueurs entre les mailles, pas dans une maille, placez-les ainsi: comptez 11 m, placez un marqueur après cette 11ème m, *comptez 15 m, placez un marqueur après cette 15ème m*, répétez de *-* jusqu'à la fin du rang, il reste 10 mailles après le dernier marqueur. Bon crochet!

20.02.2023 - 08:56

country flag Karolina wrote:

Robię teraz karczek. I nie do końca rozumiem zmniejszanie. Czy po wykonaniu zmniejszenia po 13,14 oczku pierwszego zmniejszenia, następne zmniejszanie też mam zrobić po/przed 13,14 oczku?

26.10.2022 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Karolino, w następnym rzędzie z zamykaniem/zmniejszaniem oczek w robótce, wykonujesz to w miejscu markerów (przed lub za markerem - czyli w jednym okrążeniu zawsze zamykasz oczko przed każdym markerem, a w kolejnym zawsze za markerem, itd.). Pozdrawiamy!

27.10.2022 - 08:44

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonsoir, Je vois rune éponse mais elle n’est pas en français pourriez-vous la traduire . Merci

10.06.2022 - 23:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, vous trouverez - en français - la réponse à votre question, si vous souhaitez traduire les questions & réponses précédentes, vous pouvez utiliser un traducteur en ligne, ils ne sont pas toujours très justes mais permettent souvent de saisir le sens. Bon crochet!

13.06.2022 - 08:39

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, C’est la première fois que je fais un empiècement , alors je ne comprends pas ,je dois crocheter les manches à la suite ou les m ensemble ?

10.06.2022 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, vous crochetez d'abord le bas du gilet (devant droit, dos, devant gauche, vu sur l'endroit) jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis vous crochetez les manches jusqu'aux emmanchures également, et ensuite, vous crochèterez tout ensemble: le devant droit, la manche droite, le dos, la manche gauche et le devant gauche, en même temps, vous diminuerez pour les raglans aux marqueurs placés après le 1er tour. Bon crochet!

13.06.2022 - 08:34

country flag Natalie wrote:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke delen med montering, skal hækle 6 rækker med natur garn nederst rundt om hvert ærme, men hvordan får jeg så den blå kant som er på billedet? For det står der intet om??

19.02.2022 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Natalie. På bildet er ermene brettet oppover. Så den "blå kanten" er starten når du begynte å hekle ermet. Om du ser på bildet og da høyre arm på babyen ser du tydelig at den er brettet (de hvite maskene på ermet matcher ikke resten av ermet oppover). mvh DROPS Design

21.02.2022 - 11:48

country flag Anna wrote:

På oket står det Upprepa minskn på vart 4:e v 1-1-2 (2-2) ggr till (= totalt 2-2-3 (3-3) minskn) - men nästa gång, minskas det EFTER alla markörerna, FRÅGA! Ska det minskas vart 4:e v då också?

27.01.2022 - 23:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anna. Første gang du feller, skal du felle FØR merketrådene, så hekler du 3 rader, så skal du felle ETTER merketrådene. Hekler du de minste str er du ferdig å felle etter hver 4.rad, hekler du en av de største str. hekler du 3 rader før det felles igjen (FØR merkene). Deretter skal det felles på hver 2. rad (5-5-4 (4-5) ganger) og tilslutt på hver rad 2-3-3 (4-4) ganger. mvh DROPS Design

31.01.2022 - 13:03

country flag Maria wrote:

Jag förstår inte första raden på oket. Ska ärmarna virkas ihop med stycket på något sätt? Sys fast? De här 29 maskorna som ska virkas på ärmen, virkas de tillsammans ihop med fram och bakstycket?

15.11.2020 - 10:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Ja, ermene hekles sammen med oket på 1. omgang på oket. Str. 6/9 mnd = 136 m på bolen og 52 m på hvert erme. Du starter oket med å hekle 29 masker på høyre forstykket, deretter hekle 1. erme fast til oket. Hopp over de 5 første maskene på ermet og hekle deretter de neste 42 m, hopp over 5 m (du har nå heklet 42 masker på ermet og hoppet over 10 m = 52 m og heklet ermet fast i oket). Nå hekler du bakstykket = 58 m, så skal du hekle 2. erme på samme måte som 1. erme og deretter venstre forstykket. God Fornøyelse!

24.11.2020 - 09:06

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, j'aime beaucoup ce modèle que je fais en 12-18 mois, mais j'ai un soucis avec les manches. Avec le patron, 1 manche mesure 4cm + 9 rang de points fantaisies avec 1 augmentation 1 rang sur 2, soit au total 5,8 cm environ. Or il est indiqué de mettre en attente à 17 cm de hauteur. Faut continuer en point fantaisie jusqu'à 17cm? Et comment connaître la largeur à obtenir après les augmentations ? Merci beaucoup.

21.08.2020 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, vous augmentez tous les 2 rangs, donc vous avez bien 18 rangs d'augmentations qui doivent vous donner environ 11 cm (cf échantillon: 16 rangs point fantaisie = 10 cm) + 4 cm de bordure de manche = 15 cm- Continuez jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 17 cm - en arrêtant bien après un rang de brides (en fonction de votre tension, crochetez 1 rang supplémentaire ou en moins si besoin pour que ce rang soit bien un rang de brides). Bon crochet!

24.08.2020 - 08:05

country flag Karolína wrote:

Dobrý den, návod je asi napsaný srozumitelně, budu podle vás hackovat poprvé, tak jsem sama zvědavá, jestli to zvládnu. Každopádně mi není jasný jeden důležitý detail a to, jestli se to hackuje krátkými sloupky nebo dlouhými. V popisu se opakuje KS a třeba u trupu i rukávů je na konci píše, že se má končit DS rubovou stranou. Poradíte mi prosím?

29.12.2019 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Karolíno, určitě zvládnete :-)! Kabátek je háčkovaný vzorkem, kde se střídají řady krátkých a dlouhých sloupků (viz odstavec VZOR na začátku návodu), proto díly končí řadou DS. Hodně zdaru! Hana

29.12.2019 - 12:15