DROPS / 153 / 10

Nevertheless by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Nevertheless / DROPS 153-10 - Crochet DROPS jacket in Paris. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Nevertheless / DROPS 153-10 - Crochet DROPS jacket in Paris. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no w-524
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-100-110-122-134 cm / 34½"-39½"-43½"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 46-48-56-58-59 cm / 18"-19"-22"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550 g color no 32, light blue purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x 5,5 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on every sc row with 1 ch.
Replace first tr on every tr row with 4 ch.

INCREASE TIP: Inc by working 2 sc in 1 sc.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 156-166-177-188-198 loose ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris. Work 1st row as follows: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 2-4-3-2-4 ch = 117-125-133-141-149 sc (= the first row in diagram) - READ CROCHET INFO. Continue to work as follows: A.4 (= band), A.1, A.2 over the next 96-104-112-120-128 sc (= 24-26-28-30-32 times in width), finish with A.3 and A.4 (= band). Work diagram A.z 1 time vertically AT THE SAME TIME on the last 2 rows inc 24-28-32-36-40 sts evenly on each of the rows (= 48-56-64-72-80 sts inc in total) – READ INCREASE TIP above. NOTE: Do not inc over A.4 = 165-181-197-213-229 sts. Then work diagram A.z 1 time vertically (A.2 is now worked 36-40-44-48-52 times in width) AT THE SAME TIME on the last 2 rows inc 22-26-30-34-38 sts evenly on each of the rows (= 44-52-60-68-76 sts inc in total). NOTE: Do not inc over A.4 = 209-233-257-281-305 sts.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue to work as follows:
A.4, A.1, A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (= 6-7-8-9-10 times in width) (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 40-44-48-52-56 sc from previous row (armhole, sts used for sleeve later), A.2 over the next 60-68-76-84-92 sc (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 40-44-48-52-56 sc from previous row (armhole, sts used for sleeve later), A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (front piece) and finish with A.3 and A.4.
Continue to work as follows: Work A.4, A.1, A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (= 6-7-8-9-10 times in width) (front piece), skip 8 ch (under sleeve), A.2 over the next 60-68-76-84-92 sc (back piece), skip 8 ch (under sleeve), A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (front piece) and finish with A.3 and A.4. Repeat A.z until piece measures approx. 28-28-35-35-35 cm / 11"-11"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4", finish after one whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 46-48-56-58-59 cm / 18"-19"-22"-22 3/4"-23 1/4" from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Worked top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 2 sc in the first ch (of the 8 ch), 1 sc in each of the next 7 ch and 1 sc in each of the 40-44-48-52-56 sc from yoke = 49-53-57-61-65 sc. Continue to work as follows: ch 4, A.1, A.2 over the next 40-44-48-52-56 sts (= 10-11-12-13-14 times in width), finish with A.3 and 1 sl st in fourth ch. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 14-14-21-21-21 cm / 5½"-5½"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4", finish after one whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Work a sc edge around the neck to get a nice finish as follows: Work * 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 4-6-5-4-6 ch = 118-126-134-142-150 sc.
Sew the buttons on to the left band, approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' apart.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sc
symbols = ch
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 5 tr in ch-space
symbols = sc in ch-space
symbols = row explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 153-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (122)

country flag Pilar 28.09.2021 - 21:17:

Hola,estoy completamente liada no entiendo bien el gráfico. En la segunda hilera de a-z según entiendo hay que hacer: en A2 1pad,1cad,1pad y 3cad= 6 puntos q sacamos de 4 ( si lo multiplicamos por 24 veces salen 144)+ los 7 q salen de A1+ 4 q salen de A3+ 12 de borde= 167 puntos

user icon DROPS Design 06.10.2021 kl. 23:07:

Hola Pilar, A.2 (= 4 puntos), 4x24 son 96 puntos. A.1 (=6 puntos) + A.3 (= 3 puntos) y A.4/ los bordes son 12 puntos (6 a cada lado). Por lo que se tienen 117 puntos para la talla S. Tienes que contar el número de puntos según el número de puntos bajos debajo; las cadenetas no cuentan como puntos, solo se utilizan para formar el dibujo de calados.

country flag Carina Britt Sofia Bäcklund 03.07.2021 - 20:56:

Hej! Jag håller på att virka koftan w-524. Allt har gått bra, men när jag ska börja virka fortsättningen efter mönstret där arbetet ska mätas vet inte jag om jag fortfarande ska öka på fm-varven eller inte t ex öka 26 fm jämt fördelade på båda fm-varven? Det syns ju inte på diagrammet.? Tack! /Carina

user icon DROPS Design 14.07.2021 kl. 11:09:

Hej Carina, når du fortsætter med fram- och bakst skal du ikke øke mere :)

country flag Marlies Lindemann 27.02.2021 - 14:36:

Liebes DROPS-Team , ich fange gerade mit dem Armloch an. Sehe ich das richtig: A2 endet jeweils mit 3 Luftmaschen, dann 8 Luftmaschen , also insgesamt 11 LM, bevor die Maschen für das Armloch übersprungen werden?

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 08:16:

Liebe Frau Lindemann, ja genau, Sie sollen A.2 in der Breite wiederholen, so brauchen Sie diese 3 Luftmaschen vor den 8 Lm - wenn Sie dann die Ärmel häkeln, nicht vergessen, daß 3 von den 8 sind die von Rumfpteil. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Liliia 23.11.2020 - 09:53:

Dear Drops Design, After work first 3raws (for the yoke part, size L) the lenght is 117 cm, it is super big for the neck. I checked it's 10 cm for 14 tr and the tension looks similar to photo. Could you tell me tge approximate length of first 166 loose ch?

user icon DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 10:39:

Dear Lillia, at the very beginning you are casting on much more chains (177 in size L) than you will have double crochets on the first row (= 133 dc on first row) - since the chains are more often quite tight, you cast on more chains and skip chains evenly on first row, this means you should have 133 dc at the end of first row = approx. 95 cm width. Happy crocheting!

country flag Frances Slade 03.10.2020 - 12:39:

I’m amateur & trying to follow a diagram pattern for 1st time. I’m doing small size. I have 165 st @ end of working 1st Az BUT each time I do 2nd Az I have 243 st BEFORE doing 2 x22 inc rows. I have 36 A2’s, then 38 x 5dtr’s (worked over 36 A2’s +an A1 @ each end) and 38 A2’s. I have 37 x 3ch between each A2. Please can you spot where I’m going wrong?

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Slade, you have to work the 165 sts as follows: A.4 (= 6 sts), A.1 (=6 sts), repeat A.2 (= 4 sts) a total of 36 times (= 4sts x 36 = 144sts), A.3 (=3 sts), A.4 (= 6 sts)= 6+6+144+3+6=165. As long as you are repeating the correct number of repeats, your number of sts will be right. (= you should have on each row: 6 sts + A.1 x1, A.2x36, A.3x1 and 6 sts). Happy crocheting!

country flag Carys 19.08.2020 - 11:36:

I have finished the yoke and have started on the body but the underarm looks wrong to me. Where you add an 8 chain to the first row of "V"s (double treble, 1-chain double treble) for the under arm of the sleeve, is this meant to leave a hole under the arm? Also I have looked at the instructions for the sleeve and there is no mention of working up the side of the V. If you could post a picture of the underarm of a completed garment that would be very helpful.

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 15:23:

Dear Mrs Carys, the 8 chain stitches are "replacing" the sleeve stitches, ie you skip the stitches for the sleeve and crochet 8 chain stitches over these skipped stitches. On next row, you then skip the 8 chain stitches and work .A2 (starting with A.1, ending with A.3 and with A.4 on each side). Happy crocheting!

country flag Tiziana Grumi 10.04.2020 - 17:54:

Buongiorno, sono allo sprone, ultimo giro. I 22 aumenti come li distribuisco? Premetto che di A2 anziché 36 io ne ho 39... Ho sbagliato qualcosa, ma non so che cosa...

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 09:55:

Buongiorno Tiziana. Provi a contare il numero di maglie sulla riga, con esclusione delle maglie dei bordi dei davanti. Divide poi questo numero per 22 (numero di aumenti da fare). Ottiene così ogni quante maglie fare un aumento. Buon lavoro!

country flag Milaine 02.02.2020 - 02:39:

Trop beau ce modèle. Comment faire pour avoir les explications en français. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Milaine, cliquez simplement sur le menu déroulant sous la photo et sélectionnez "français". Bon crochet!

country flag Natascha 12.06.2019 - 10:11:

Liebes Drops-Team, warum muss ich so viele LM häkeln und dann in der 1 R immer nur 3 Häkeln und eine LM überspringen? Dadurch wird der Rand etwas wellig. Ist das gewollt? Ich finde, dass das nicht sehr schön aussieht. Danke und LG, Natascha

user icon DROPS Design 12.06.2019 kl. 10:43:

Liebe Natascha, Man überspringt in der ersten R in regelmäßigen Abständen 1 Lm, damit der Rand nicht zu stramm und eng wird und elastisch bleibt - in der Regel häkelt man die Lm etwas fester als später die M, um das auszugleichen, schlägt man mehr Lm an. Wenn Ihnen das mit den Löchern gar nicht gefällt und Sie sehr lockere Lm anschlagen, können Sie auch nur die Anzahl der Lm anschlagen, die Sie in der 2. R für die fM brauchen (wobei dabei zu beachten ist, dass das 1. fM aus 1 Lm besteht). siehe auch hier. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Andrea 20.05.2019 - 17:27:

Da die Doppelstäbchen sehr groß sind , 1,5 bis 2 cm Frage ich mich wie man bei 9 Reihen auf 10cm kommt. Eine kleinere Nadel geht nicht sonst klappt es in der Breite nicht. Da wären es dann 16 bis 18 Stäbchen. Wie kommt ihr mit diesem Garn auf 10 x 10cm? Das kann ich drehen und wenden wie ich will, das funktioniert nicht. Und mit einer 3,5 Nadel sieht es nicht schön aus, und ist sehr fest. Dann brauch ich keine Anleitung in Stärke 5.

user icon DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 10:45:

Liebe Andrea, Sie sind ja recht, nach Überprüfung sollte die Maschenprobe 5,5 Reihe = 10 cm sein - eine Korrektur erfolgt gleich. Vielen Dank. Viel Spaß beim häklen!

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