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Wheel Of Fortune by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS blanket in "Lima".

Keywords: blanket, circle, lace

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DROPS 152-43
DROPS design: Pattern no li-050
Yarn group B
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Size: Width: 140 cm / 55'' Height: 98 cm / 38½''
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
500 g color no 7219, pistachio
50 g color no 0206, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 – or size needed to get 17 dc in width x 8 dc vertically = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO - circle:
Every round that finish with ch 1, then finish with 1 sl st in first dc (i.e. 3, 6, 10, 14, 18 and 22 round).
Every round that starts with 4 or more ch finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

CROCHET INFO - half circle:
Every row from and including 2nd row on half circles starts with ch 1, skip 1 dc on the previous circle, 1 sl st in back loop of next dc on previous circle and finish like this: skip 1 dc on previous circle, 1 sl st in back loop of next dc.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows/rounds in pattern seen from RS.
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BLANKET:
Work first a circle, then work a half circle along the circle. Then work 3 smaller half circles along the first half circle, beg from circle.

Every round/row is explained below but repetition is repeated in the different circles. 1 repetition of A.1:

ROW/ROUND 1: 1 dc.
ROW/ROUND 2: ch 1, 1 dc in first dc.
ROW/ROUND 3: 1 dc in ch, 2 ch.
ROW/ROUND 4: ch 1, 3 dc in ch-space.
ROW/ROUND 5: ch 1, 1 dc in first dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 6: 2 dc in first ch-space, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch.
ROW/ROUND 7: 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch.
ROW/ROUND 8: ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 9: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 10: 4 dc in ch-space, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch.
ROW/ROUND 11: 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in ch.
ROW/ROUND 12: ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 13: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 14: 4 dc in ch-space, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch.
ROW/ROUND 15: 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in ch.
ROW/ROUND 16: ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 17: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 18: 4 dc in ch-space, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch.
ROW/ROUND 19: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 1 dc in ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in ch.
ROW/ROUND 20: ch 3, skip 2 dc, * 1 dc in next dc, skip 3 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, 1 dc in next dc.
ROW/ROUND 21: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, * ch 3, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total.
ROW/ROUND 22: * 4 dc in ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total.
ROW/ROUND 23: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in ch.
ROW/ROUND 24: ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total.
ROW/ROUND 25: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, * ch 3, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total.

LARGE CIRCLE:
= 13 repetitions of A.1: Work 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 with pistachio and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work in the round – read CROCHET INFO - circle.
ROUND 1-25: - see diagram A.1 and explanation above.
ROUND 26: ch 3, ** 4 dc in first ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 repetition (= 26 dc) **, repeat from **-** 13 times in total = 338 dc.
ROUND 27: Do not cut the yarn (continue with this on half circle 1), but switch to beige for this round. Work * ch 3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in front loop of next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sc in last dc.

HALF CIRCLE 1:
Then work half circle 1 (= 8 repetitions of A.1) back and forth along edge on 26th round (i.e. last round in pistachio) on the large circle and all sts worked on this round works in back loop of dc, work as follows:
ROW 1: Work with pistachio from beg of round 26 on circle (i.e. all sts worked in round 26 are worked in back loop of dc) as follows: Work 8 dc in 2nd dc on last round on circle, skip 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in back loop of next dc on circle.
ROW 2: – READ CROCHET INFO - half circle = 8 dc and 8 ch.
ROW 3: = 8 dc and 16 ch.
ROW 4: = 24 dc and 8 ch.
ROW 5: = 16 dc and 24 ch.
ROW 6: = 32 dc and 16 ch.
ROW 7: = 56 dc
ROW 8: = 16 dc and 48 ch.
ROW 9: = 16 dc and 56 ch.
ROW 10: = 64 dc and 16 ch.
ROW 11: = 88 dc
ROW 12: = 24 dc and 72 ch.
ROW 13: = 24 dc and 80 ch.
ROW 14: = 88 dc and 24 ch.
ROW 15: = 120 dc
ROW 16: = 32 dc and 96 ch.
ROW 17: = 32 dc and 104 ch.
ROW 18: = 112 dc and 32 ch.
ROW 19: = 152 dc
ROW 20: = 40 dc and 120 ch.
ROW 21: = 40 dc and 128 ch.
ROW 22: = 136 dc and 40 ch.
ROW 23: = 184 dc
ROW 24: = 48 dc and 144 ch.
ROW 25: = 48 dc and 152 ch.
ROW 26: ** 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 repetition (= 26 dc) **, repeat from **-** 8 times in total = 208 dc.
ROW 27: Do not cut the yarn but switch to beige for this row. Work 1 sl st, * ch 3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in front loop of next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc in last dc.

HALF CIRCLE 2:
Half circle 1's 26th row (i.e. last row in pistachio) is where next half circle (both 2nd, 3rd and 4th half circle) beg. Then work half circle 2 (= 6 repetitions of A.1) – READ CROCHET INFO – half circle, all sts worked in 26th round are worked in back loop of dc, work as follows:

ROW 1: Switch to pistachio. Work ch 1, skip 1 dc on 26th row of half circle 1, 1 sl st in back loop of next dc, 6 dc in same dc on circle as last sl st from half circle 1 was worked in = 6 dc, skip 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in back loop of next dc on circle.
ROW 2: = 6 dc and 6 ch.
ROW 3: = 6 dc and 12 ch.
ROW 4: = 18 dc and 6 ch.
ROW 5: = 12 dc and 18 ch.
ROW 6: = 24 dc and 12 ch.
ROW 7: = 42 dc
ROW 8: = 12 dc and 36 ch.
ROW 9: = 12 dc and 42 ch.
ROW 10: = 48 dc and 12 ch.
ROW 11: = 66 dc
ROW 12: = 18 dc and 54 ch.
ROW 13: = 18 dc and 60 ch.
ROW 14: = 66 dc and 18 ch.
ROW 15: = 90 dc
ROW 16: = 24 dc and 72 ch.
ROW 17: = 24 dc and 78 ch.
ROW 18: = 84 dc and 24 ch.
ROW 19: = 114 dc
ROW 20: = 30 dc and 90 ch.
ROW 21: = 30 dc and 96 ch.
ROW 22: = 102 dc and 30 ch.
ROW 23: = 138 dc
ROW 24: = 36 dc and 108 ch.
ROW 25: = 36 dc and 114 ch.
ROW 26: ** 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 4 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, * 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 repetition (= 26 dc) **, repeat from **-** 6 times in total = 156 dc.
ROW 27: Fasten off, switch to beige. Work 1 sl st, * ch 3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in front loop of next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc in last dc.

HALF CIRCLE 3:
Half circle 3 is worked as half circle 2, but beg by working from half circle 1 where half circle 2 is worked in on 26th row. (Work in the side along half circle 1 and 2, not in the circle).

HALF CIRCLE 4:
Half circle 4 is worked as half circle 2, but beg by working from half circle 1 where half circle 3 is worked in on 26th row. (Work in the side along half circle 1 and 3, not in the circle).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = beg round with 3 ch and finish with 1
sl st in first dc
symbols = last round is explained in pattern
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 152-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Alessandra wrote:

Il grafico di questo scialle non è chiaro. Si potrebbe avere il grafico 'con le spiegazioni' per intero e non uno spicchio

28.09.2023 - 08:52

country flag Alma wrote:

Rows 9 10 11 12 an so on are same amount of stitches. My circle looks like bowl.

12.10.2022 - 05:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alma, on row 9 you should have *4 ch, 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc* (= 9 sts), repeat from *-*, on row 10: *4 dc, 1 ch, 4 dc, 1 ch* (= 10 sts), on row 11: *2 dc in 1 st, 1 dc in each of the next 9 sts* (= 11 sts); on row 12: *3 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 3 sts, 1 dc in next st, 3 ch, skip 3 sts, 1 dc in next st* (= 12 sts), on row 13: *4 ch, 1 dc in next dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc* (= 13 sts), etc.. Hope it can help. Happy crocheting!

12.10.2022 kl. 09:32

country flag Alma wrote:

Question: why is it rows 9 10 11 12 and so are same amounts of stitches. My circle start to look like a hat ,.On circles always crochet next row with increasing stitches so it can be flat circle .

12.10.2022 - 05:10

country flag Mariangela wrote:

Salve, sto lavorando questo bellissimo modello, ma non mi è chiaro quale sia il motivo A1 e di conseguenza la lavorazione. Grazie

22.09.2022 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariangela, può trovare il motivo A.1 in fondo, scorrendo la pagina verso il basso. Buon lavoro!

22.09.2022 kl. 23:22

country flag Tessa wrote:

Waar is halve cirkel 5

29.06.2020 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tessa,

Er is één hele cirkel en er zijn 4 halve cirkels (en geen 5). Je begint met de grote cirkels en daarna haak je de 4 halve cirkels eraan.

30.06.2020 kl. 15:15

country flag Birgit wrote:

Please consider adding a stitch count for completed rows of the first circle. Working from a chart is great, however the ability to double-check for accurate number of stitches would significantly enhance this (and other) pattern. Crocheting on a wing-and-a-prayer. Regards BR

21.06.2020 - 18:36

country flag Andrea Blazanovic wrote:

Hi, ich habe den Schal angefangen und es wäre sehr Hilfreich wenn man Maschenangsben pro Runde angegeben hätte, zum Nachzählen und Überprüfen. Ich musste mehrmals aufziehen da ich entweder zu viel oder zu wenige Machen hatte. LG

08.06.2019 - 09:25

Amerentia Van Der Kooij wrote:

I am considering to repeat row 22-25, as I am wondering if my whole circle is to small (52 cm, using a different yarn). What should the diameter be of the whole circle? Beautiful pattern! Thanks

07.08.2018 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Van Der Kooij, the tension in this pattern is 8 rows tr = 10 cm; the circle is 25 rounds, so that the diameter of the circle should be approximatively 63 cm. Note that if your circle is larger than in the pattern, you may have to make more adjustments later. Happy crocheting!

07.08.2018 kl. 15:18

country flag Lisa wrote:

I diagrammet ser varje varv ut att börja med 3 lm som stolpe. Stämmer det? Eftersom exv varv 2 börjar med 1 lm o avslutas med en stolpe kommer ju en stolpe precis bredvid varvets start som då är en luftmasksstolpe. Kan det verkligen stämma? Nästan varje varv avslutas isåfall med stolpe dikt an mot första luftmaskstolpen...

12.10.2017 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej! En del av varven börjar med 3 lm som räknas som 1 stolpe. Du kan även se hur det virkas i själva beskrivningen.

18.10.2017 kl. 17:38

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte das Modell so häkeln, dass jeder Kreis in einer anderen Farbe ist. Wie viel Garn muss ich pro Farbe (Kreis) bestellen?

06.10.2016 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, wir können leider nicht jede Anleitung nach jedem Geschmack neu einstellen. Für weitere persönnlichen Anfragen können Sie sich gerne an Ihren DROPS Laden wenden.

06.10.2016 kl. 10:07

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