DROPS / 152 / 17

Amber by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern and double crochet in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-027
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm / 34 5/8''-37¾''-41''-45''-49½''-54¼''
Full length: 51-52-53-62-64-65 cm / 20"-20½"-21"-24½"-25 1/4"-25½"

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 28, yellow

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/ US 7 – or size needed to get 16 dc x 8 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of a new row replace 1 dc with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.5.

CROCHET TIP:
Beg and end at arrow in the middle of diagram A.x

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth.
Work 83-90-100-107-121-132 loose ch on hook size 4.5 mm with Cotton Light.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc), then work 1 dc in each of the next 2-2-5-5-5-2 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 10-11-12-13-15-17 more times = 70-76-85-91-103-112 dc.
Then work 5-5-5-4-5-5 more rows with 1 dc in every dc (= 6-6-6-5-6-6 rows in total with dc) – READ CROCHET INFO. Continue with PATTERN as follows: Work A.1 over 4 dc, A.2 until 3 dc remain, A.3 over the remaining 3 dc from previous row. Continue with diagrams A.1 – A.3 back and forth for 8 rows, there are now 8 holes diagonally in height (= first stripe with lace pattern), and 1 row with dc's. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Then continue with stripes in dc and lace pattern the same way but work according to diagram A.x, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 32-32-32-40-41-41 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-15 3/4"-16"-16" and when working a section with dc, insert a marker in each side for armholes. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 49-50-51-60-62-63 cm / 19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-23½"-24½"-24 3/4", beg neck dec and finish each shoulder separately as follows from RS: Work 1 row with dc over the first 21-24-27-30-36-39 dc, turn piece and dec 1 dc – READ DECREASE TIP. Work the rest of row. When piece measures 51-52-53-62-64-65 cm / 20"-20½"-21"-24½"-25 1/4"-25½", back piece is finished. Fasten off. Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece. When piece measures 43-43-43-53-54-54 cm / 17"-17"-17"-21"-21 1/4"-21 1/4", beg neck dec and work each shoulder separately.
Work left shoulder as follows from RS:
Work ch-spaces as before (with 2 dc between every sc on first row with ch-spaces) over the first 27-30-33-36-42-45 dc, AT THE SAME TIME dec for neck by dec 1 ch-space in lace pattern according to pattern A.4.
Continue like this back and forth until A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically. On next row work 4 dc in first ch-space, 3 dc in each of the next ch-spaces until 1 ch-space remains, and 4 dc in last ch-space on row = 20-23-26-29-35-38 dc remain for shoulder. Then continue with 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 51-52-53-62-64-65 cm / 20"-20½"-21"-24½"-25 1/4"-25½" in total, front piece is finished. Fasten off.
Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed and use diagram A.5 instead of A.4. Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked from armhole and outwards.
ROW 1: Beg at the bottom at one of the markers for armhole, and work ch-spaces over the armhole as follows: 1 sc, * ch 5, 1 sc *, repeat from *-* until there are 20-21-23-23-25-26 ch-spaces (every ch-space is over 1½-2 cm / ½"-3/4"). Continue back and forth with pattern A.x until 3 repetitions in total vertically have been worked - READ CROCHET TIP - AT THE SAME TIME dec in every section with dc as follows:
1st and 2nd time A.x is worked dec 1 dc in each side of piece on the 1st, 3rd and 5th row with dc in A.x = 6 dc dec in each side. 48-51-57-57-63-66 dc remain.
3rd time A.x is worked dec as follows: Dec 1 dc in each side of piece on the first 4-5-5-5-5-5 rows with dc = 40-41-47-47-53-56 dc remain. Continue with 4-3-2-2-1-0 rows with dc. Now sleeve measures approx. 36-35-34-34-33-32 cm / 14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-13½"-13"-12½". Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows from mid on top of shoulder: 1 sc, * ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc on round. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams and underarm seams in one in edge sts on rows.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.03.2014
BACK PIECE:
Continue with diagrams A.1 – A.3 back and forth for 8 rows, there are now 8 holes diagonally in height (= first stripe with lace pattern), and 1 row with dc's. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! ....
+ new chart A.x (1 row tr added at top)
Updated online: 03.10.2014
under BACK PIECE (size XL - 5, not 7 rows in total): ....= 70-76-85-91-103-112 dc.
Then work 5-5-5-4-5-5 more rows with 1 dc in every dc (= 6-6-6-5-6-6 rows in total with dc) – READ CROCHET INFO.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= dc
= ch
= sc in st
= sc in ch-space
= this row is explained in pattern
= pattern on sleeve beg here When A.x has been worked one time vertically, continue the entire repetition of A.x for the rest of the sleeve
= this row is explained on first row on sleeve



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 152-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (80)

Susan Williamson 22.05.2020 - 11:16:

I am a great fan of your patterns and find them generally easy to understand but I've made several now and they always come up way bigger than the chart sizes suggest. I always go down one crochet hook size but even then on this one it is still almost 7 cm wider than the chart (size M). But the height is fine. Could you check the chart width is correct? Thank you.

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 12:33:

Dear Mrs Williamson, in size M you should have 76 sts and following the tension (16 sts = 10 cm in width), you would then have ca 48 cm. Make sure you get the correct tension to get same measurements as in the chart. Happy crocheting!

Mc 09.04.2020 - 15:20:

Merci beaucoup, finalement je vais le faire avec un crochet N°3 Le crochet 4,5 me donne les dimensions d'un pull XXL. Et je désire le faire en L

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 15:07:

Bonjour Mc, nous crochetons toutes de façon différente, raison pour laquelle on doit se référer à l'échantillon pour obtenir les bonnes mesures finales, vous avez donc tout à fait raison d'opter pour un crochet plus petit s'il vous permet d'obtenir le bon échantillon à la fois en largeur et en hauteur pour obtenir les mesures du schéma dans la taille souhaitée. Bon crochet!

Mc 04.04.2020 - 17:08:

Bonjour, Je veux réaliser ce modèle , cependant j'ai un souci sur l'échantillon. En utilisant le crochet n°4 j'ai un échantillon trop large pour 16 brides sur 8 rangs. Lorsque j'utilise le crochet n°3,5, j'ai bien 10 cm sur 16 brides mais en hauteur j'ai 9 rangs et non 8 pour 10 cm. Quelle taille dois je choisir sachant que je pensais prendre une taille L Merci

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 13:20:

Bonjour Mc, essayez de recommencer votre échantillon en tirant un peu moins vos brides en hauteur pour conserver la bonne largeur indispensable aux mesures finales en préservant la hauteur pour conserver le bon aspect. plus d'infos sur l'échantillon ici. Bon crochet!

D Vels 26.09.2019 - 14:28:

Waarom is het patroon bij AX totaal anders dan A2A3A1 Je eindigt in de eerste toer met 6 lossen en waar zet je die vast voordat je het stokje van de 2 toer haakt

DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 15:16:

Dag D Vels,

In A.X begin je de toeren met stokjes steeds met 3 lossen en je eindigt de toer met 1 stokje. Dan keer je het werk en begin je weer met 3 lossen.

Pauline 29.03.2019 - 08:43:

Just finished making this jumper, I found the pattern hard at first but once I read it a couple of times it made sense and I am really pleased with the result. Also this is a really quick make, only took me two days so definitely going to make this again.

Lezlie Wilcox 21.01.2019 - 02:46:

DROPS is famous for it's poorly written, hard to follow patterns. This is no exception.

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 13:00:

Dear Mrs Wilcox, we are sorry to hear you have worries with this pattern, you are welcome to ask your question here and to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

Brona 13.11.2018 - 18:48:

Please help i\'m stuck after row 6, don\'t understand diagram. Need written version or explaination please.

DROPS Design 14.11.2018 kl. 08:04:

Dear Brona, each symbol in diagram represents 1 stitch - see diagram key. Start working from RS at the bottom corner on the right side (see 1 = row 1) and work A.1 over the first 4 sts, then repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain at the end of the row and work A.3. From WS read diagram from the left towards the right: A.3, repeat A.2 and finish with A.1. Happy crocheting!

Monique 30.07.2018 - 19:44:

Ich bin gerade beim Vorderteil (Größe L) in Höhe der 43cm, wo ich nun die Schultern einzeln häkeln soll, und bin mit der 4. Bogenreihe gerade fertig. Muss ich erst einmal normal weiter häkeln, bis ich eine Stäbchenreihe haben, bevor ich die Schultern beginne (so ähnlich wie auf dem Foto)? Ich bin mir unsicher, ob das gut aussieht, wenn ich in einer Bogenreihe mit den Schultern starte. Außerdem sind in A4 und A5 Stäbchenreihen als erste Reihe.

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Monique, Die Schultern beginnen mit einer Bogenreihe, aber gerne können Sie anpassen, jenach dem Sie Bogenreihe oder Stb häkeln (damit Muster gleich wie beim Rückenteil wird), einfach über die ersten 33 Stb häkeln für die erste Schulter. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Katharina 15.05.2018 - 21:37:

Hallo, ich bin beim Vorderteil bei Diagramm A4, Größe L. Über die ersten 33 Stäbchen sollen Lfm-Bögen, macht 11 Bögen. Dann 2 Bögen abketten in den nächsten Reihen macht 9 Bögen. Dann sollen 4 stb in den ersten Bogen, danach je 3 stb pro Bogen und am Ende nochmal 4 stb. Das sind bei mir allerdings 29 stb und nicht wie in der Anleitung benötigt 26. Was mache ich falsch? Liebe Grüße!

DROPS Design 16.05.2018 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Katharina, arrangieren Sie die Maschenanzahl bei der 1. Reihe mit Stb so daß Sie die richtige Breite bekommen - Ihr Hinweis wird unser Designteam weiterleitet. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Nadia Trappeniers 11.08.2017 - 20:01:

Hallo, wat geeft het beste resultaat: voor- en achterpand aan elkaar naaien of aan elkaar haken. Dankuwel

DROPS Design 15.08.2017 kl. 17:23:

Hallo Nadia, In dit geval is in elkaar naaien met kleine steekjes het mooist (althans naar mijn smaak ;)

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