DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

Christmas Star

DROPS Christmas: Crochet DROPS pot holder in ”Paris” with decorative flower in ”Cotton Viscose”.

DROPS Extra 0-1000
DROPS design: Pattern no w-494
Yarn group C
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POT HOLDER:
Measurements: approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' in diameter.

Materials for 2 pot holders:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 12, red
100 g color no 43, green
50 g color no 14, strong yellow
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.


DECORATIVE FLOWER:
Measurements: 15 cm / 6'' in diameter.

Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g color no 10, moss green
50 g color no 05, red
50 g color no 04, mustard
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 1.5 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Place the leaves to be fastened tog flat and see how best to fasten them tog, adjust if necessary.
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CHRISTMAS STAR:
Pot holder and decorative flower are worked according to same pattern. Use crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Paris for pot holder and use crochet hook size 1.5 mm with Cotton Viscose for decorative flower. Skip the strap if decorative flower does not need it.

Ch 4 with strong yellow or mustard and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, * 1 sc, ch 4 *, repeat from *-* 7 more times. Switch color to red and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 2: ch 3 (= replace first dc), 2 dc in 1st sc, 3 dc in every sc around the circle, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch = 24 dc.
ROUND 3: In first st ch 10, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 8 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc (= first leaf), skip 3 sts, * in next st work 1 sl st, 10 ch, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 8 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, skip 3 sts *, repeat from *-* 4 more times. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 6 leaves.
ROUND 4: Now work around the leaves as follows: * ch 1 + 1 sc, in each of the next 8 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 1 sl st in first ch on next leaf *, repeat from *-* 5 more times.
ROUND 5: Now fold the leaves forward and work on the back of leaves as follows: ch 3, 6 dc in 3rd st on 2nd round (work on the back of leaves), * skip 3 sts and in the 4th st between the next 2 leaves work 6 dc in same st *, repeat from *-* 4 more times. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 36 dc.
ROUND 6: ch 13, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 11 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc (= first leaf), skip 2 sts, * in next st work 1 sl st, 13 ch, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 11 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, skip 2 sts *, repeat from *-* 10 more times. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 12 leaves.
ROUND 7: Now work around the leaves as follows: * ch 1, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 times in total), * ch 1, 1 hdc in next st *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 times in total). * ch 1, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (= 4 times in total). Work ch 1, 1 hdc in next st, * ch 1, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (= 3 times in total) ch 2 (at the tip of leaf), 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sl st in first ch on next leaf.
Then work * ch 1 and 1 sc in the next 2 sts, then fasten the leaves tog - READ CROCHET TIP - as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of hdc on previous leaf and tip on leaf on 4th round. Then work 1 hdc, 1 ch and 1 dc in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc, ch 1 and 1 sc in the next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sl st in first ch on next leaf. Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 2 sts, then fasten the leaves tog as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of hdc on previous leaf. Then work 1 hdc, 1 ch and 1 dc in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc, 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sl st in first ch on next leaf *, repeat from *-* 4 more times.
Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 2 sts, then fasten the leaf tog with first leaf as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of hdc on previous leaf and tip on leaf on 4th round. Then work 1 hdc, 1 ch and 1 dc in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 hdc, 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 3 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts.
Switch color to green or moss green and work 1 sl st in first ch on round.

ROUND 8: Now fold the leaves forward and work on the back of leaves as follows: ch 3 (replace 1st dc), 4 dc in 3rd st on 5th round, skip 2 sts and in the 3rd st work 4 dc. Then work * 5 dc in 3rd st on 5th round, skip 2 sts and in the 3rd st work 4 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 54 dc.

ROUND 9: ch 1, 3 sc, 1 sl st in next st, ch13 , in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 11 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc.
* Work 4 sc, in 5th st ch 13, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 11 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. Then work 1 sl st in next st, ch 13, in 2nd ch from hook work 1 sc, then work in the next 11 ch as follows: 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc *, repeat from *-* 4 more times. Then work 4 sc.
Now work leaf with strap as follows: 1 sl st in next st, work 24 ch, in 14th ch from hook work 1 sl st, then work in the next ch as follows: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 tr, 1 dtr, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round = 12 leaves.

ROUND 10: ch 1, 3 sc. Now work around the leaf as follows: 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaves on 7th round - remember Crochet tip - as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on leaf to the right on 7th round. Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 6 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaf on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on leaf to the left on 7th round. Then work 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc. * Work 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. Now work around next leaf as follows: 1 sl st in next st, ch 1, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaves on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on leaf to the right on 7th round. Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 6 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaf on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on the leaf to the left on 7th round, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. Then work 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc. Now work around next leaf as follows: 1 sl st in next st, ch 1, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaves on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on leaf to the right on 7th round. Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 6 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaf on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on the leaf to the left on 7th round, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts *, repeat from *-* 4 more times.
Work 4 sc. Now work around the last leaf as follows: 1 sl st in next st, ch 1, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaves on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on leaf to the right on 7th round. Then work 1 ch and 1 sc in the next 6 sts, 1 sl st in each of the 14 ch for strap, 1 sc in the next 6 sts, then fasten leaf tog with leaf on 7th round as follows: 1 sl st in back loop of upper hdc on the leaf to the left on 7th round, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.
Work another one the same way.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Sascha wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke 8. omg. Er der evt. fejl? Det bliver jo blot en kæmpe klump hvis det hele skal gentages i 3. maske. Jeg synes i det hele taget ikke 8. omg. giver megen mening.

15.12.2022 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sascha, springer du over 2 masker og hækler i 3. - springer over 2 igen og hækler i 3. (så du hækler i hver 3.maske) :)

16.12.2022 - 15:10

country flag Patrizia Frattolin wrote:

Vorrei sapere co che filato sostituire Drop cottone viscose per eseguire la stella di Natale . grazie

17.11.2022 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, Cotton Viscose appartiene al gruppo filati A: può scegliere un altro filato di quel gruppo per realizzarle. Buon lavoro!

19.11.2022 - 22:08

country flag Liane wrote:

Hallo, durch welches Garn kann ich denn Cotton Viscose ersetzen und welche LL hatte es?

14.11.2022 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Liane, benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner, um die vorgeschlagene Alternative zu finden - hier finden Sie alle unsere Auslaufsgarne. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.11.2022 - 16:30

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo. Ich bin Anfänger beim Häkeln. Nur leider verstehe ich nicht die 7. RD nicht so .

06.11.2022 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, die 7. Runde häkeln Sie in die Maschen von der 6. Runde, in die Maschen von jedem Blatt, dann häkeln Sie die Blätter zusammen wie erklärt - folgen Sie alle Maschen Schritt für Schritt, so bekommen Sie diese 7. Runde. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.11.2022 - 09:53

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Hallo an das Team, wenn ich die 1.RD und 2. RD gearbeitet habe, wie beschrieben, erhalte ich in der 3.RD aber acht Blätter und nicht sechs, wie in der Anleitung angegeben. Wie löse ich das? Anschließend passt nix mehr .....

07.12.2020 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dagmar, die Blätter werden über 4 Maschen wiederholt, dh 1 Masche mit dem Blatt (10 Lm, usw), dann 3 Maschen überspringen, und das 6 Mal wiederholen (6 x 4 M = 24 M von der 2. Runde). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.12.2020 - 08:24

country flag Christina wrote:

Hej Findes der et diagram til denne her opskrift? Eller en video der viser præcist hvordan man hækler den? Det kunne være en stor hjælp! Venlig hilsen Christina

26.11.2020 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christina. Til denne blomsten er det bare en beskrivende tekst. Ellers er det hjelpevideo til de ulike hekle teknikkene. mvh DROPS design

30.11.2020 - 11:57

country flag Grete wrote:

Danke für die tolle Anleitung

09.11.2020 - 08:34

country flag Beatrice wrote:

Bonjour auriez vous un diagramme plutot que des explications ou j'ai un peu de mal a saisir merci de votre comprehension

13.11.2018 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Béatrice, nous n'avons pas de diagramme pour ce modèle, suivez attentivement les indications écrites pas à pas, rang après rang. Bon crochet!

14.11.2018 - 07:55

country flag Daria wrote:

Co oznacza skrót 1sł2, 2sł2, 2sł3 itd. ?

09.12.2016 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Witam. Skrót sł2 oznacza słupek podwójny inaczej zwany też słupkiem podwójnie nawijanym. 2 sł2 = 2 słupki podwójne. POWODZENIA

12.12.2016 - 09:03

country flag Mary-Ann Smith wrote:

Christmas star is called "poinsettia" in English 😊

07.10.2015 - 19:51