Comfort Rib by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS socks in "Alaska".

Keywords: sideways, socks, tå op
DROPS 149-21
DROPS design: Pattern no x-398
Yarn group C
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43

Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g color no 04, gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 18 sc in width x 20 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= 1st sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc on round and 1st sc on next round, move the marker upwards when working.

Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch. Finish every row with 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row.

Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc dec.

Piece is worked in the round from toe and back to instep, then work back and forth from mid back on heel. Then work leg sideways and crochet onto sock.

Ch 4 on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Alaska and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: Work 6-6-5 sc in ch-ring - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12-12-10 sc.
ROUND 3 (and then every other round): Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times in total = 18-18-15 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times in total = 24-24-20 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times in total = 30-30-25 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 6-6-5 times in total = 36-36-30 sc. Inc are now done in size 5/6½ (EU35/37).
ROUND 12: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 6-5 times in total = 42-35 sc. Inc are now done in size 7½/9 (EU38/40).
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total = 40 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total = 45 sc. Inc are now done in size 10/12 (EU41/43).

= 36-42-45 sc on round. Work in the round with 1 sc in every sc until piece measures 14-16-18 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-7". Then work sc back and forth over the first 24-30-32 sc (i.e. do not work over the last 12-12-13 sc on round) - read CROCHET INFO! When sock measures 20-22-25 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (i.e. approx. 6-6-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4" from where it is divided), insert 1 marker in the middle of piece (= 12-15-16 sc on each side of marker). On next row dec 1 sc on each side of marker, i.e. beg 2 sts before marker and work the next 4 sc tog 2 by 2 – READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sc dec). Work 1 row without dec. Repeat dec on next row (= 2 sc dec) = 20-26-28 sts remain on row. Work 1 row without dec, sock now measures approx. 22-24-27 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10½" from toe to heel. Put piece aside.

Work leg as follows: Ch 33 loosely with Alaska on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 32 sc. Work back and forth with sc only in back loop of sts until piece measures 16-16-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7", adjust so that one long side fits the opening of sock. Place leg and sock opening towards each other and work tog from WS with a row of sl sts through both layers. NOTE – opening on sock should be mid back of sock.

Turn the sock inside out, place it double and work tog the back from WS with a row of sl sts through both layers. Fasten off.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 149-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

country flag Zizzi wrote:

Hej! Ska skaftet monsteras från mitt bak. på hällappens ena sida, över vristdelen på foten och sist över hällappens andra sida? OM då räcker skaftets 16 cm ( Enl mönstret) inte till. Når bara över ena sidan hällapp + vristdel. Ska jag lägga till maskor (många?) eller har jag förstått fel? Finns det någon monteringsanvisning, som klart och tydligt visar hur fot och skaft ska monsteras? (inte hur man virkar ihop 2 stycken). Tacksam för svar Zizzi

14.10.2023 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Zizzi. Skaftet er heklet som en vrangbord og er ganske elastisk, så når du skal hekle skaftet og sokkens åpning sammen, dra litt i skaftet. Vi har dessverre ingen video på hvordan det gjøres, men håper vi kan få laget en i nær fremtid. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2023 - 11:13

country flag Erik wrote:

So i am at the "all sizes" part. and i am supposed to place a marker with 15 sc on each side of it. but there is not one stitch that i can place them in. Because there is 30 sts. so im supposed to put the marker between st. 15 and 16? Then it says 1 sc dec on each side of marker. but how do i travel from one side of the marker to the other?

26.09.2023 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Erik, if you have 30 sc, you should insert the marker after the 15th stitch and then, crochet 2 sc together on each side of this marker: work 1 sc in each sc until 2 sts remain before marker, crochet 2 sc together, (marker), crochet 2 sc together, work to the end of the row. = you have decreased 2 sts. Work 1 row without decreasing and repeat the decrease row one more time the same way. Happy crocheting!

26.09.2023 - 15:22

country flag Simone wrote:

Hej igen. Det jeg mente med mit spørgsmål, var ikke hvordan man hækler sammen, men hvordan skal skaftet side på selve foden? Kan ikke få det til at se rigtigt ud.

12.09.2023 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Simone. Jo, når du har heklet ferdig skaftet har det en form som et det rektangel. Åpningen på skaftet skal være midt bak på sokken/hælen. Avpass slik at den ene langsiden på skaftet passer med åpningen bak på sokken/hælen. Legg skaftet og sokkens/hælens åpning mot hverandre og hekle sammen fra vrangen med en rad kjedemaske gjennom begge lag (både skaftet og sokken). Åpningen på skaftet skal være midt bak på sokken. mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2023 - 11:32

country flag Simone wrote:

Hej.. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal sætte skaftet på hele sokken?

06.08.2023 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Simone, se videoen nederst i opskriften hvordan man hækler dele sammen :)

10.08.2023 - 14:04

country flag Yiqi Huang wrote:

Dear Drops Team, I think there must be something wrong with the leg design. If done according to the instructions, the piece would measure 16x17 cm, but neither side would fit the opening on the sock or anyone’s calf… I see that many people already raised this question, please review your instructions and correct it so no more people will be confused. Thanks for the great pattern otherwise!

16.07.2022 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Huang, the leg is worked sideways, you crochet for 16-16-18 cm (around leg) - adjust if necessary this length so that it fits the foot, but remember, it should be somewhat tighten around the leg to fit. Happy crocheting!

01.08.2022 - 10:16

country flag Vicky wrote:

Eg slite litt med å forstå at denne oppskrifta tilsvare det som visast på biletet. Og for ein nybegynnar så ser eg no at denne oppskrifta i grunn er veldig vanskeleg. Når eg heklar no så bli ikkje hæl-delen det slag det same som visast på biletet. Kva er grunn til at de ikkje har betre videoar evt bilete som visar denne oppskrifta. Har funne oppskrift andre stader og det er forklaring og bilete veldig mykje betre enn det eg har erfart her.

27.03.2022 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vicky, dejligt at høre at du har fundet ud af opskriften ved hjælp af andre videoer. Vi skriver en video af denne på ønskelisten til en anden gang. God fornøjelse!

30.03.2022 - 15:04

country flag Heilie Steeneveld wrote:

Ik heb deze sokken met wol besteld maar ik heb wol tekort . Kan ik dit bij bestellen? En de kleur is grijs/ blauw. Ik hoop dat u kunt achterhalen welke wol het was

09.10.2021 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Heilie,

Voor vragen over het bestellen van bollen garens in specifieke kleurnummers en verfbaden kun je het beste terecht bij je verkooppunt. Zij kunnen je wellicht verder helpen om het juiste kleurbad te vinden.

16.10.2021 - 13:52

country flag Anne wrote:

Je veux débuter un de vos patron et je ne comprend pas votre expressions pour 6-6-5 mailles serrer dans le rond pour travailler en spirale pouvez vous m’aider

09.02.2021 - 23:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne, vous crochetez au 1er tour soit 6 ms soit 5 ms selon la taille, puis, avant de commencer le 2ème tour, mettez un fil marqueur après la dernière maille serrée du tour 1 et donc juste avant la première maille du tour 2 et crochetez ensuite 2 ms dans chaque ms, à la fin de chaque tour, mettez bien le marqueur entre la dernière m du tour et la première du tour suivant pour bien repérer le début des tours. Bon crochet!

10.02.2021 - 07:00

country flag Miriam De Bie wrote:

Waarom haak je 4 lossen in het begin en dan 6 v in lossenring? Op welk gedeelte van patroon heeft dit betrekking: INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN: Vervang eerste v aan het begin van elke v toer door 1 l. Eindig elke toer met 1 hv in l van het begin van de toer?

08.02.2021 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Miriam,

De vier lossen in het begin haak je samen tot een ring en in de lossenring haak je dan weer de 6 vasten. De 4 lossen heb je dus nodig als basis om de vasten in te haken. De informatie voor het haken heeft betrekking op elke toer, dus in plaats van een vaste in de eerste vaste te haken, haak je een losse en sla je de eerste vaste over. Je sluit de toer af door een halve vaste in die eerste vaste te haken.

23.02.2021 - 14:07

country flag Richelle Camara wrote:

I am trying to start this, what does these numbers mean 6-6-5???? Also Read work in the round circle???? What does that mean? THANK YOU "Work 6-6-5 sc in ch-ring - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE."

15.01.2021 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Camara, these socks are given in 3 sizes, these 3 numbers refer to each size, for exemple in first and 2nd size you will start with 6 sc in the chain-ring, but in the larger size you will work only 5 sc in the chain-ring. Happy crocheting!

18.01.2021 - 07:53

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