Fancy Nancy by DROPS Design

Crochet hat and neckwarmer for children in DROPS Nepal

DROPS Children 24-39
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-006-bn
Yarn group C
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HAT:
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Head circumference: 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/58 cm / 19½"-20½" - 20½"/21¼" - 21¼"/22¾"
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in 3112, powder pink
50 g for all sizes in color no 501, gray.

NECK WARMER:
Size: one-size
Circumference: 60 cm / 23½''
Height: 12 cm / 4¾''
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 3112, powder pink
50 g color no 501, gray

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 - or size needed to get 13 sc/dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first sc at beg of every round with 1 ch. Finish every row with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

ROUNDS WITH DC AND CH:
Work every round with dc and ch as follows: Turn piece so that WS is towards you, ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), skip 1 ch-space (= last ch from previous round), * 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 1 *, repeat from *-*, finish round with 1 dc in last ch-space (= ch-space with 4 ch from previous round), 1 sl st in ch-space with 4 ch from beg of round – i.e. work alternately on RS and WS to make a nice finish on round.

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HAT:
ROUND 1: Ch 4 on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with powder pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch, work 6 sc in ch-ring = 6 sc. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 11: Work 1 sc in every sc but inc 0-6-6 sc evenly = 60-66-66 sc.
Continue to work 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 19-20-21 cm / 7½"-8"-8 1/4". Work 2 rounds with gray.

Then work an edge as follows - with gray:
1 sc in first sc, * skip 2 sc, in next sc work 6 dc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-*, finish the last time with 1 sl st in first sc on round.

Fasten off.

POMPOM:
Make 1 pompom with gray with an approx. diameter of 8 cm / 3''. Fasten it to the top of the hat.

NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with Nepal. Chain 156 LOOSELY with powder pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), * skip ch 1, 1 dc in next ch, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in ch-space with 4 ch from beg of round. Then work ROUNDS WITH DC AND CH – see explanation above. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' vertically, switch to gray and work a fan edge as follows: ch 1, * 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows: ch 1, * skip 2 sc, 6 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Fasten off.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Malin Bäckström wrote:

Hej! Kanten på mössan står ut /korvar sig uppåt istället för att lägga sig mot huvudet som på bilden. Vad kan det bero på?

14.11.2023 - 20:14

country flag Marta Álvarez Suárez wrote:

No entiendo que tengo k hacer en esta vuelta VUELTA 11: Hacer 1 p.b. en cada p.b., pero aum 0-6-6 p.b. distribuidos equitativamente = 60-66-66. Donde tengo k hacer los aumentos???? Gracias de antemano el patrón chulisimo

23.10.2022 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Marta, en esta vuelta tienes que trabajar aumentos según la talla. Para la primera talla (3/5 años) no hay aumentos, para las otras sí. Tienes que aumentar 6 puntos repartidos sobre los 60 puntos de la vuelta anterior. 60/6 = 10. Por lo tanto, aumentas trabajando 2 puntos bajos en cada 10º punto bajo de la vuelta.

23.10.2022 - 23:15

country flag Hildegard Sobolewski wrote:

Eine Frage zu dem Modell fancy Nancy Mütze und Schal: es sieht mir so aus, als sei der Verbrauch von Wolle für jedes Teil einzeln berechnet zu sein. Kann es sein, dass ich für beide Teile mit 150g rosa und 50 g grau auskomme?

25.09.2022 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Sobolewski, jedes Teil wurde separat berechnet und das Set haben wir leider nicht mehr, aber ich würde sagen daß man für beide Teile wegen dem Pompon sicher 100 g grau und wahrscheinlich 200 g rosa braucht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

26.09.2022 - 09:18

country flag Anna wrote:

La larghezza dello scalda collo è di 60 cm, devo quindi fare mi modo che la sua circonferenza sia 120cm giusto?

14.10.2021 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, per lo scaldacollo deve proseguire avviando il numero di maglie indicato. Buon lavoro!

19.10.2021 - 23:25

country flag Seiler wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte gern die Mütze und den Kragen häkeln, allerdings verstehe ich die Anleitung nicht. Gibt es auch eine Anleitung in Form einer Zeichnung? So häkle ich z.Bsp. Weihnachtssterne. Vielen Dank.

06.04.2021 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Feau Seiler, wir haben nur schriftliche Anleitung zu diesem Modell. Lesen Sie aufmerksam unf hier können Sie Ihre Frage stellen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.04.2021 - 07:21

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hallo, ich häkel gerade die Mütze. Bin jetzt bei ca 12cm. Ohne zunahmen zu machen bis zu 19cm, kommt mir komisch vor. Wird das dann nicht zu eng am Kopf?

08.12.2020 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann wird die Mütze so auch stimmen, sie wird etwas kleiner als Kopfumfang, damit die Mütze richtig passt (und nicht rutscht). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.12.2020 - 16:42

country flag Uli Oswald wrote:

Ich möchte gerne das Drops Design Modell Nr. ne-006-bn Garngruppe C häkeln und habe dazu 1 Frage: “Das Modell kann in 3 Größen gehäkelt werden. Ich möchte die Größe 3 / 5 häkeln. In der Anleitung finde ich erst in der 11. Runde eine Differenzierung ( 0 – 6 – 6 ). Das kommt mir sehr seltsam vor. Kann das sein?”

06.11.2020 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Oswald, Größe 3/5 ist die erste Größe in diese Anleitung, es bedeutet, bei 11. Runde häkeln Sie 1 fM in jede fM ohne Zunahmen = 60 fM - dann häkeln Sie weiter bis die Arbeit 19 cm mist. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

09.11.2020 - 08:56

country flag Thale wrote:

Skal halsen virkelig bare være 10cm i høyde (pluss viftemønster?) på bildet ser den mye større ut. Der ser det også ut til at det er viftemønster på begge kantene, men det er det ikke i oppskriften?

03.10.2020 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Thale. På bilden ser det ut som om hon har den dubbel runt halsen och därför ser den bredare ut och det ser också ut som om det är viftemönster på begge kanter. Mvh DROPS Design

06.10.2020 - 08:11

country flag Roxana Pérez wrote:

Hola! Buenas noches! Me cuesta un poco seguir las instrucciones escritas. Tendrán un patrón, un dibujo, un esquema que puedan enviarme de ambas prendas? Se los agradecería eternamente ya que de ese modo es mucho más fácil entender de qué modo tejer! Los sigo siempre! Desde ya, muchísimas gracias!!

15.04.2020 - 05:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Roxana, no tenemos un patrón grafico, un dibujo. Pero cada uno de nuestros patrones tiene videos tutoriales específicos para ayudarte. Buen trabajo!

17.11.2020 - 14:36

country flag Lisa wrote:

New at crocheting and understanding yarns. I love the colors for this pattern and want to crochet the same colors. When I looked up yarn in Drops they different shade of powder pink. Is 50g the same as 100g? And is 3112 representing the color?

17.03.2019 - 00:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, DROPS Nepal yarn comes in 51 gramm skeins, and for 100 gramms you will need two skeins. Over the some colors do change but you will have a similar effect even if you use the currently available powder pink. 3112 is the number for this color shade. Happy Crafting!

17.03.2019 - 11:53

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