DROPS / 146 / 23

Purple Crocus by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS dress with lace pattern at the bottom and buttons in the side in ”Muskat”.

Tags: dresses, lace,
  • Purple Crocus / DROPS 146-23 - Crochet DROPS dress with lace pattern at the bottom and buttons in the side in ”Muskat”.
DROPS design: Pattern no r-629
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-108-122-136 cm /
33"-36 1/4"-40"-42½"-48"-53½"
Full length: 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm /
31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½''

DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-950 g color no 09, light brown

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 15 rows of diagram A.1 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 5 pieces

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first sc on every sc row with 1 ch.
Replace first dc on every dc row with 3 ch.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

Dec 1 st by working 2 sts tog.
Crochet 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Crochet 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in st and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

To make the texture the same on the entire piece, work piece back and forth in 2 parts and sew them tog when finished.

With Muskat ch 90-97-104-111-125-139 on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 sc (ch used to turn with is also counted as 1 sc) - READ CROCHET INFO. Turn and work 1 sc in every st. Continue with diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm / 9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11'' (make sure that next row is a row with dc), dec 4 sts evenly – READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec every 2 cm / 3/4'' 4 more times (make sure to dec on row with dc) = 58-64-70-76-88-100 sts on row.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', inc 5 sts evenly by working 2 sts in 1 st. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' 2 more times - but the last time inc 4-4-6-6-6-6 sts evenly.
After all inc there are 72-78-86-92-104-116 sts on row.
When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22''-22½'', bind off for armholes in each side. This is done as follows: Work sl sts over the first 4-5-5-6-7-8 sts, then work until 4-5-5-6-7-8 sts remain, turn piece. On next row work the 4 outermost sts in each side tog 2 by 2 – SEE DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec on every row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On next row work the 2 outermost sts tog, repeat dec on every row 2-2-2-3-4-5 more times.
After all dec are done, 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts remain on row. Continue with A.1.
When piece measures 60-61-63-64-66-67 cm / 23½"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-26"-26½", finish each shoulder separately.

1ST SHOULDER: Work pattern A.1 as before over the first 17-19-21-22-23-24 sts, turn and work the first 4 sts tog 2 by 2, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 4 sts remain before neck, work these tog 2 by 2, turn. On next row work the first 2 sts tog, then work the rest of row. Turn, work until 2 sts remain, work these tog. Turn, work the first 2 sts tog, work the rest of row = 10-12-14-15-16-17 sts remain on shoulder. Continue A.1 until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½ , cut the yarn.

2ND SHOULDER: Work as first - make sure to beg on the correct row in diagram and to finish at the top on the same row as 1st shoulder.

Now work a flounce at the bottom of front piece as follows:
Beg by working 1 row with sc from RS – inc evenly so that there are 91-97-103-109-121-139 sc in total on row.
Turn and continue with diagram A.2 as follows: a over the first 7 sts, then b until 6 sts remain, finish with c. Work the 4 rows in A.2 two times vertically, flounce measures approx. 10 cm / 4'', fasten off.

Work as front piece up to and with armhole dec = 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''.
Now finish each shoulder separately as follows: Work 1 row over the first 12-14-16-17-18-19 sts, turn and work the first 2 sts tog, work the rest of row. Turn, work until 2 sts remain, work these tog. Turn, work 1 st in every st the entire row, cut the yarn. Repeat on the other shoulder.
Work a flounce at the bottom the same way as on front piece.

Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew right side seam the entire way - edge to edge to make it less visible. Sew left side seam the same way but leave an opening in the side for buttons.
This opening should be approx. 18 cm / 7'' long and beg approx. 10 cm / 4'' below the armhole.

Work as follows along the opening on front piece – beg at the top: 1 sc, * ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', then work sc for approx. 2.5 cm / 7/8'' *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with ch 3 and 1 sc at the bottom of opening.
Sew button at the edge of opening on back piece to match the front piece.

Work as follows around the neck edge and armholes: 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' and make 1 sc *.
Repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 dc

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Sarah Ulkan 23.02.2019 - 04:29:

Wirklich ein wunderschönes Kleid, Wolle ist schon bestellt und ich kann es kaum erwarten damit zu beginnen und es im Sommer zu tragen

country flag Susanne 07.03.2018 - 10:44:

Hallo. Kurze Frage: Die Maschenzunahme von 5 Maschen, bezieht sich das auf je 5 Maschen pro Reihe oder gesamt und was bedeutet 4-4-6-6-6-6? Vielen Dank für eine Antwort. LG Susanne

user icon DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 12:51:

Liebe Suzanne, in den 2 ersten Größe werden Sie 4 M zunehmen und in den 4 letzten Größen werden Sie 6 M zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Karen 07.12.2017 - 20:14:

Voor kleding heb ik maat s (zowel voor broek als shirt) maar ik twijfel of dit wel gaat passen bij deze jurk, het breedste stuk is 80 cm omtrek maar bij mijzelf is het breedste stuk 96cm omtrek, maar als ik maat L zou aanhouden is het aantal cm bij de taile en borst weer veel te ruim, hebben jullie een advies welke maat ik het beste zou kunnen haken?

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 12:43:

Als je taille en buste maat S is en bij de heupen maat L, dan zou ik in maat L beginnen en na de heupen meer minderingen maken, zodat je ongeveer op maat S uitkomt bij de taille. Als je hem helemaal in maat L maakt, zit het niet mooi bij de schouders en borst e.d.

country flag Karen Dijkstra 14.11.2017 - 19:47:

Ik ben pas begonnen aan purple crocus by drops design 146-23. Bij telpatroon A.1 tel ik 6 steken horizontaal, betekend dit dat ik na iedere 6 steken, 1 steek moet overslaan en dan weer 6 steken moet maken?

user icon DROPS Design 15.11.2017 kl. 10:55:

Hoi Karen, Nee, je hoeft geen steken over te slaan. A.1 is 'toevallig' per 6 steken aangegeven en deze herhaal je steeds.

country flag Marja 27.05.2017 - 12:13:

Wat is de lengte van deze jurk? Ik ben 1.65 lang en meestal is alles te lang voor mij.

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2017 kl. 13:20:

Hoi Marja, De totale lengte is 80 cm (Vanaf schouder naar beneden). Om de lengte aan te passen kun je in het rokgedeelte een aantal toeren minder maken. Veel haakplezier!

country flag Margurithe Zellén 26.05.2017 - 10:14:

Skall jag fortsätta efter mönstret när jag minskar för ärmhål. Eller bara göra fm?

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2017 kl. 14:48:

Hej, du fortsätter med att virka A.1. Lycka till!

country flag Yolanda 02.02.2016 - 10:34:

Ik moet nu meerderen voor de bovenkant (vanaf taille). Maar moet ik meerderen aan de zijkant? Of moet ik gelijkmatig over de gehele breedte meerderen?

user icon DROPS Design 03.02.2016 kl. 17:37:

Hoi Yolanda. Nee, je moet meerderen gelijkmatig over de hele breedte - net zoals je deed bij het minderen voor de taille. Veel haakplezier verder.

country flag Julie 27.05.2014 - 20:09:

Pattern sized at s thru to xxxl. But what are the measurements?? I don't know which size to make

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2014 kl. 08:52:

Dear Julie, you will find at the bottom of the page a measurement chart with all measures for each size taken flat, from side to side. Compare these with a similar garment you like the shape to find the matching size. Happy crocheting!

country flag Øygunn Kallevik 11.05.2014 - 17:28:

Under volang nede står det: Øk jevnt fordelt til 103 masker. Utgangspunktet er 104 masker. Skal det bare økes med en maske? Er det litt lite garn? Jeg har brukt 350 g av 700 g mangler fortsatt volang nede.

user icon DROPS Design 12.05.2014 kl. 19:24:

Hej. I large har du 104 lm men du har 90 fm på 1.rad. Så om du hekler i hver av de 90 fm så må det ökes i tillägg jevnt fördelt så det blir 103 m totalt. Vi har ikke hört tidigare at det skulle vara för lite eller för mye garn till denne design.

country flag Wilma Tackett 22.04.2014 - 18:16:

Why does this pattern need buttons on the side? is this necessary?

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2014 kl. 09:04:

Dear Mrs Tacket, the dress is close-fitting, opening for buttons will help to put it on/out. Happy knitting!

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