DROPS / 147 / 1

Popsicle by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-468
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M/L - XL/XXL/XXXL
Full length: 42-48 cm / 16½"-19"

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
150-200 g color no 12, red
150-150 g color no 17, off white
150-150 g color no 01, apricot
150-150 g color no 38, raspberry
100-100 g color no 27, peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 2 fans (with 9 dc) = approx. width 8 cm / 3 1/8''.

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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace 1st dc on round with ch 3.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Stripe pattern is different in the sizes (1 stripe more in red in size XL/XXL/XXXL), garment in picture is size S/M/L.

DC-GROUP:
1 dc-group = in same ch-space work 2 dc, ch 3 and 2 dc.

FAN:
1 fan = in same ch-space work 9 dc. Replace 1st dc on 1st fan with ch 3.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new color as follows: Insert hook in last ch from beg of round, get the new color, make a YO and pull it through st on hook.
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PONCHO:

The piece is worked in the round from neck and down.
With off white Paris ch 64-72 loosely on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with one sl st in 1st ch.
Then work according to A.1 as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 5 (replace 1st dc and the first 2 ch), * 1 dc in ch-ring, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* 31 more times - see diagram A.1, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 32 dc and 32 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: READ CROCHET INFO! ch 3, in 1st ch-space work 1 dc, ch 3 and 2 dc (= 1st dc-group), * ch 1, skip 1 ch-space, in next ch-space work 1 dc-GROUP * - read explanation above, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-space on 1st dc-group, work 1 FAN - read explanation above - in ch-space, * 1 sc in next ch-space (between dc-groups), 1 fan in ch-space on next dc-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle dc on 1st fan, ch 1, 1 sc in same dc, * ch 8, 1 sc in the middle dc on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round = 16 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: ch 5 (replace 1st dc and the first 2 ch), * in next ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc and ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time, do not work last dc but 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc and 48 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: ch 3, in 1st ch-space work 1 dc, ch 3 and 2 dc (= 1st dc-group), * ch 1, skip 1 ch-space, in next ch-space work 1 dc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 24 dc-groups.
ROUND 7: Work sl sts until ch-space on 1st dc-group, work 1 fan in ch-space, * 1 sc in next ch-space (between dc-groups), 1 fan in next dc-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 24 fans.
ROUND 8: Work sl sts until the middle dc on 1st fan, ch 1, 1 sc in same dc, * ch 8, 1 sc in the middle dc on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round = 24 ch-spaces.
Then repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time (= 3 rounds in total with fans in off white) = 36 ch-spaces on last round (i.e. 12TH ROUND).
Switch to peach at the end of last round - READ COLOR CHANGE.
Repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time in peach = 54 ch-spaces on last round (i.e. 16TH ROUND), switch to apricot at the end of this round.
Then repeat ROUNDS 5-8 1 more time in apricot = 81 ch-spaces on last round (i.e. 20TH ROUND), switch to raspberry at the end of this round.

Size XL/XXL/XXXL:
= 81 ch-spaces on last round. Then work the last inc with raspberry as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 5 (replace 1st dc and the first 2 ch), ** * in next ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, in next ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc and ch 2 (= 2 dc and 2 ch-spaces in 3rd ch-space), 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 ** - i.e. there are 7 dc and 7 ch-spaces over 3 ch-spaces from previous round, see diagram A.2. Repeat from **-** until 3 ch-spaces remain on round, then work as follows: * In next ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc and ch 2 (= 2 dc and 2 ch-spaces in ch-space), 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time (i.e. there are 6 dc and 6 ch-spaces over these 2 ch-spaces), in last ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc and ch 2 (= 2 dc and 2 ch-spaces in ch-space), finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 190 dc and 190 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: ch 3, in 1st ch-space work 1 dc, ch 3 and 2 dc (= 1st dc-group), ch 1, skip next ch-space, * in next ch-space work 1 dc-group, ch 1, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 95 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-space on 1st dc-group, work 1 fan in ch-space, * 1 sc in next ch-space (between dc-groups), 1 fan in next dc-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 95 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle dc on 1st fan, ch 1, 1 sc in same dc, * ch 8, 1 sc in the middle dc on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round = 95 ch-spaces. Switch to red at the end of round, then work in red until finished measurements.

All sizes:
= 81-95 ch-spaces on last round.
Then work without inc (with raspberry in size S/M/L, with red in size XL/XXL/XXXL) as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 5 (replace 1st dc and the first 2 ch), * in next ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 * - see diagram A.3, repeat from *-* the entire round - but when repeating the last time, do not work last dc but 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 162-190 dc and 162-190 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: ch 3, in 1st ch-space work 1 dc, ch 3 and 2 dc (= 1st dc-group), ch 1, skip next ch-space, * in next ch-space work 1 dc-group, ch 1, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 81-95 dc-groups.
ROUND 3: Work sl sts until ch-space on 1st dc-group, work 1 fan in ch-space, * 1 sc in next ch-space (between dc-groups), 1 fan in next dc-group *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sc in last ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 81-95 fans.
ROUND 4: Work sl sts until the middle dc on 1st fan, ch 1, 1 sc in same dc, * ch 8, 1 sc in the middle dc on next fan *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 8 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round = 81-95 ch-spaces.
Size S/M/L: Switch to red at the end of round.
All sizes: Repeat ROUNDS 1-3 1 more time in red (NOTE: Finish with 3RD ROUND, there are 7-8 rounds with fans in total) = 81-95 fans on last round, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.02.2013
Amounts edited:
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
150-200 g color no 12, red
150-150 g color no 17, off white
150-150 g color no 01, apricot
150-150 g color no 38, raspberry
100-100 g color no 27, peach

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc
= dc
= ROUND 1


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (333)

Stacia Teegardin 24.12.2019 - 21:57:

Is it possible to adapt this for my 8 year old granddaughter?

DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 22:34:

Dear Stacia, you can go about it a few different way. The easiest maybe to use a thinner yarn and hook, resulting in a smaller gauge (for example use DROPS Cotton light instead of the Paris. You can also start with less pattern repeat and leave out a couple of rows. Happy Crafting!

Noha 24.10.2019 - 00:44:

How come if i chained 72 i must get 32 chain spaces in first round? That is not possible because since we chained more stitches at first, we have bigger round and therefore more chain spaces!

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 10:35:

Dear Noha, you will get the same number of ch-spaces in all sizes since you are working first round around the chains from ring of chains (not in the chains themselves), the fundation chain in larger size is larger to get make the neck larger. Happy crocheting!

Lil 15.06.2019 - 10:41:

Is it possible for a video tutorial to be made

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 07:10:

Dear Lil, you will find here how to read crochet diagrams here, please feel free to ask your questions here. Happy crocheting!

Vidya 10.02.2019 - 16:11:

If I chain 64 I will get 32 dc but if I chain 72 I have to get 36 dc ?

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 10:35:

Dear Vidya, you will get the same number of dc in all sizes since you are working first round around the chains from ring of chains, the fundation chain in larger size is larger to get make the neck larger. Happy crocheting!

Vidya 11.01.2019 - 10:55:

In the pattern I chained 72 so have to chain 5 more to start R 1?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 15:13:

Dear Vidya, when you have chained 72 sts, join in the round with 1 sl st in the first chain, then work now in the round starting 1st round with 5 chains (= replace 1st tr + first 2 chains). Happy crocheting!

Amina 02.11.2018 - 04:29:

Hi, love this poncho, according to A1 , after chaine 5 , did u skip 1 ch , then make 1dc ch 2 all around plz

DROPS Design 02.11.2018 kl. 08:11:

Dear Amina, on first round, just crochet around the chains, repeatingn (1 dc, 2 ch) until you get 32 dc and 32 ch-spaces. Happy crocheting!

Sue 28.02.2018 - 22:15:

Hi, i have come to last 2 colours and it says do not increase but if i follow patern it does increase please can you tell me where im going wrong .

DROPS Design 01.03.2018 kl. 09:04:

Dear Sue, when crocheting A.3 you should have 162-190 dc/tr and 162-190 ch-spaces att he end of first round, so that you get 81-95 dc/tr-groups (fans) at the end of rounds 2-4. Make sure you have the correct number of sts, there are no inc anymore in A.3. Happy crocheting!

Putteman 27.02.2018 - 18:31:

Beste,drops 147-1 in een veel grotere maat, hoe doe ik dat aub?

DROPS Design 12.03.2018 kl. 10:52:

Hallo Putteman, Door meer herhalingen van het patroon toe te voegen, zou je hem groter kunnen maken. Vraag evt. ook het verkooppunt waar je de wol hebt gekocht om hulp.

Patricia 29.07.2017 - 16:10:

Why does my stitches increase? I have to many fans on round 5 What am I doing wrong?

DROPS Design 31.07.2017 kl. 11:05:

Dear Patricia, you should maybe bring your work to your store (or send the a picture per mail) so that they could have a look and help you finding why you get too many sts. Happy crocheting!

Namrata Prakash 01.06.2017 - 13:16:

Hey, I'm not able to find the video for his pattern

DROPS Design 01.06.2017 kl. 14:22:

Dear Mrs Prakash, there are no specific video to this pattern, just follow written instructions and diagrams reading them from bottom up and from the right towards the left on every round. Each symbol represents 1 stitch - see diagram text. Happy crocheting!

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