DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 198.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Patchwork

Crochet DROPS jacket with ¾ sleeves and granny squares in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 147-9
DROPS design: Pattern no z-643
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Size: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-250 g colour no 0100, off white
50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 6205, light blue
50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 7300, lime
50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 2921, pink
50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 3140, light pink
50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 3770, dark pink
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 2915, orange
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 2923, goldenrod
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 6347, grey purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 1 square = 6.5 x 6.5 cm. When working tr; approx. 23 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 198.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

COLOURS ON SQUARES:
Last round (= colour 4) on all squares is off white.
SQUARE A: Colour 1 = lime, colour 2 = orange, colour 3 = light blue.
SQUARE B: Colour 1 = goldenrod, colour 2 = light pink, colour 3 = dark pink.
SQUARE C: Colour 1 = light blue, colour 2 = lime, colour 3 = orange.
SQUARE D: Colour 1 = dark pink, colour 2 = light pink, colour 3 = lime.
SQUARE E: Colour 1 = light pink, colour 2 = pink, colour 3 = goldenrod.
SQUARE F: Colour 1 = pink, colour 2 = grey purple, colour 3 = light blue.
SQUARE G: Colour 1 = grey purple, colour 2 = light blue, colour 3 = light pink.
SQUARE H: Colour 1 = pink, colour 2 = grey purple, colour 3 = lime.
SQUARE I: Colour 1 = orange, colour 2 = goldenrod, colour 3 = dark pink.
SQUARE J: Colour 1 = light blue, colour 2 = lime, colour 3 = pink.

GRANNY SQUARE:
Crochet 6 ch on hook size 3 mm with colour 1 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1 (colour 1):
3 ch, 2 tr in ch-ring, * 3 ch, 3 tr in ch-ring *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 2 (colour 2):
3 ch, 2 tr in first ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop, * 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 3 (colour 3):
3 ch, 2 tr in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Turn piece.
ROUND 4 (colour 4):
3 ch, 2 tr in first ch-loop, 1 ch, * 3 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 3 tr in same ch-loop, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut the thread.

1 square measures approx. 6.5 x 6.5 cm.

Work 12-14-15-20-21 squares of every colour combination, work in addition 0-2-2-8-8 extra squares (choose your own colour combination on these squares) = 120-142-152-208-218 squares in total.

SLEEVE GUSSET:
Work a piece with tr shaped as a gusset to be sewn under sleeve so it is wider at the top than the at bottom. Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.
Work 7-8-8-8-8 ch on hook size 3 mm with off white. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in the remaining 3-4-4-4-4 ch = 5-6-6-6-6 tr. Continue back and forth with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 10 cm.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE FINISHING!
On next row inc 1 tr in each side by working 2 tr in next to last tr in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-2-2-2 rows a total of 9-12-12-12-12 times. NOTE: In size XS/S continue with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 33 cm. In sizes M and XXL divide the piece in the middle when it measures 30 cm, then work each side separately with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 33 cm. In sizes L/XL and XXXL divide the piece in the middle when it measures 26 cm, then work each side separately, when inc is done, with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 33 cm.
The piece is divided in the 4 largest sizes because of dec for armholes. This is not done in the smallest size.
Work another sleeve gusset.

Place the squares tog for back and front piece as shown on diagram – you can choose in which order you want to put the squares. Distribute the remaining 40-40-40-60-60 squares for 2 sleeves, with 20-20-20-30-30 squares on each sleeve. In the 3 smallest sizes there should be 4 x 5 squares and in the 2 largest sizes there should be 6 x 5 squares - there are 5 squares vertically in all sizes. Sew the squares tog edge to edge with off white. Sew sleeve gusset to each side of squares on sleeves and sew sleeves in body – with the widest part of gusset in the bottom of armhole.
Then sew the side seams and shoulder seams the same way – NOTE: In sizes M and XXL there is 1 row with squares in the middle of each side under armhole, in sizes L/XL and XXXL there are 2 rows with squares in each side under armhole.

Work around the entire jacket with off white as follows (beg mid back of neck): 1 dc in 1 ch at the edge of 1 square, 3 ch and 2 tr in same ch, * 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch *, repeat from *-*. NOTE: In the corners faced inwards work as follows: 1 tr in last ch before corner, 1 tr in the corner and 1 tr in first ch after corner. In the corners faced outwards work as follows: 3 tr in ch-loop in the corner on square, 3 ch and 3 more tr in the same ch-loop.
In every corner at the top by neck also work a tie as follows: 3 tr in ch-loop in the corner on square, then work loose ch for approx. 28 cm, turn and work 1 dc in every ch on the way back, then 3 tr in the same ch-loop in the corner.

Work the same way at bottom around the sleeves – over the section between the squares work as follows: * 1 tr in each of the first 3 tr, 1 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (188)

country flag Jayne wrote:

Thanks for your reply. This makes sense. I misunderstood the five squares in height instruction. I would have said five squares in length. Thank you again.

11.03.2024 - 17:21

country flag Jayne wrote:

I've attached the gusset to the sleeves but it's much longer than the four squares length for the small size. I assume I must be doing something wrong. I can't figure out a way to insert the sleeves. I feel your instructions are too vague regarding the sleeve.

10.03.2024 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jayne, remember to check and keep correct tension, the 5 squares in height (approx. 6,5 cm each) should be approx. 33cm, ie the same length as the gusset. Happy crocheting!

11.03.2024 - 09:26

country flag Peguy Sitbon wrote:

Bonjour Pour réaliser ce modèle peut on le crocheter avec une autre équivalence de fils car l’alpaga est cher je pensais soit en baby merinos soit en Nord soit en coton (peut être plus lourd à porter!) soit en flora Merci de vos conseils Cordialement Peguy

24.02.2024 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjou Mme Sibon, vous pouvez réaliser ce modèle en Nord, en Safran ou en Flora car toutes ces laines appartiennent au groupe de fils A. utilisez notre convertisseur pour voir les autres alternatives possibles et les quantités correspondantes. Votre magasin saura vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone, la meilleure alternative possible. Bon crochet!

26.02.2024 - 08:09

country flag Annette wrote:

Hej igen - jeg kan se diagrammerne nederst, men hvor mange firkanter går fx til ryggen i L - XL osv. Det er det jeg ikke rigtig forstår. Er L = 52 firkanter til ryggen og forstykker? Hvordan skal jeg forstå inddelingen? Håber det giver mening 😄 hilsen Annette

22.02.2024 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, i L/XL hækler du ialt 152 ruder, du skal bruge 58 ruder til ryggen, 54 til forstykkerne og 20 til hver af ærmerne :)

23.02.2024 - 13:35

country flag Annette wrote:

Hej Jeg forstå ikke diagrammet - altså hvor mange 4 kanter går til ryggen, forstykker osv.

20.02.2024 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, du finder antal firkanter i de forskellige størrelser nederst i opskriften :)

22.02.2024 - 11:55

country flag Sian Brereton wrote:

Hello I have nearly completed this - ordered the quantities as directed for my size in Drops Alpaca. But find I have two unused balls of coloured yarn, but won’t have enough of the off white. I don’t have a store locally so will need to order online. For all we stores I’ve tried, the delivery costs exceed (or almost) the cost of the yarn. So not very happy and suggest you might need to revise your quantities

11.09.2023 - 14:17

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo .. ich finde die Anleitung super nur leider ist für die ärmel kein bild dabei .. wie funktioniert das mit dem Keil und wie wird es angenäht.. ein bild wäre sehr hilfreich Bitte um Hilfe.. danke Lg anita

02.04.2023 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, den Keil wird unter den Ärmel sein (auf dem 2. Foto kann man ein Teil davon sehen), damit die Ärmel oben breiter sind. So wird man nur mit natur häkeln und nach 10 cm beidseitig zunehmen. Je nach der Grösse wird dann mann den Keil in 2 teilen und jedes Teil separat bis zur Ende fertig häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.04.2023 - 10:53

country flag Grada Kreijkes wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben bezig met de Summer Patchwork vestje Ik kom er maar niet achter hoe het moet met de mouwen Hoe moet ik ze aan de 'mouwspie' zetten? Daar kom ik niet uit... Ik zou het vestje graag af hebben, is zooo mooi Bedankt voor het patroon!!! H.G., Grada Kreijkes

21.02.2023 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Grada,

Als je onderaan het patroon de maattekening bekijkt, dan zie je dat er bij de oksels een inham zit. Het laatste stukje van de naad onder aan de mouw naai je niet dicht op de mouw, maar naai je aan het voor- en achterpand. Dit is wat de 'mouwspie'.

22.02.2023 - 13:08

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour Je fais le modèle en taille x/xs. J'ai fini de coudre tous les carrés et je ne comprends pas comment coudre les goussets aux manches. Dois je partir du haut de la manche jusqu'en bas ? Sur le schéma sur les devants il y a 2 petits traits. Correspondent ils a l'emmanchure ? Merci de m'aider car là je bloque complètement. Cordialement

24.09.2022 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, le gousset des manches permet de leur donner la forme "triangulaire" pour que la manche soit plus large en haut qu'en bas, on fait 2 gousset et on coud au milieu sous la manche ; ce gousset se fait de bas en haut. Les tirets sur les devants correspondent effectivement à la hauteur d'emmanchures - vous allez coudre le haut des manches + le gousset à ce niveau. Bon crochet!

26.09.2022 - 09:13

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour Pour les manches qu''entendez vous par gousset. C'est un terme et une technique que je connais pas du tout ? Merci pour votre aide

06.09.2022 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, c'est une petite pièce triangulaire qui va être crochetée côté milieu sous la manche pour lui donner sa forme plus serrée en bas et plus large en haut. Il en faudra 2 au total, 1 pour chaque manche. Bon crochet!

06.09.2022 - 12:02