DROPS / 89 / 2

Lindsay Smiles by DROPS Design

Children’s knitted DROPS jacket with raglan in "Muskat" and "Vivaldi"

DROPS design: Pattern no R-019-bn
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Sizes:
5/6 years- 7/8 years - 9/10 years -11/12 years -13/14 years
110/116-122/128-134/140-146/152-158/164 cm

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 29, old pink
50- 50-100-100-100 g colour no 11, apricot
50- 50- 50- 50-100 g colour no 34, pink
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 g colour no 40, coral
and use: DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
50- 50- 50- 50-100 g colour no 20, raspberry
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 g colour no 15, cerise
1 small left-over of colour no 17, lime, (for crochet edges)

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 6 and 7 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
DROPS Metal Buttons, Jagged, no 534: 6 items.
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100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide. 13 stitches x 17 rows with needle size 7 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-*.

Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Band: The band is worked in garter stitch to finished length. To work a neat band you need to work a little tightly.

Decrease tip (for raglan):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows in transitions between body and sleeves:
(start 3 stitches before the marker thread): K2 together, K2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over.

Knitting tip: If your knitting tension is not right in height and you work too tightly, the raglan decreases will be too short and the armholes too small. You can adjust for this by working 1 extra round without decreases regularly between decreases.

Buttonholes: Work buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole is worked as follows from the edge seen from the right side: 4 stitches garter stitch, 1 yarn over, K2 together. On next row purl yarn over twisted.

Work buttonholes when piece measures:
Size 5/6 years: 3-8-14-19-25-30 cm
Size 7/8 years: 4-10-15-21-26-32 cm
Size 9/10 years: 3-9-16-22-29-35 cm
Size 11/12 years: 3-10-16-23-29-36 cm
Size 13/14 years: 3-10-17-24-31-38 cm

Stripe pattern (body):
M = Muskat, V = Vivaldi
5-6-6-7-7 cm (incl. rib) with 1 strand pink M + 1 strand cerise V.
8-9-10-10-10 cm with 1 strand old pink M + 1 strand cerise V.
6-7-7-7-8 cm with 1 strand old pink M + 1 strand raspberry V.
11-11-12-12-13 cm with 1 strand apricot M + 1 strand raspberry V.
Then work with 1 strand coral M + 1 strand raspberry V to finished length.

Stripe pattern (sleeves):
9-10-11-12-13 cm (incl. rib) with 1 strand pink M + 1 strand cerise V.
15-16-17-18-19 cm with 1 strand old pink M + 1 strand cerise V.
12-13-14-16-16 cm with 1 strand old pink M + 1 strand raspberry V.
Then work with 1 strand apricot M + 1 strand raspberry V until the sleeves are placed on same needle as the body, continue the stripe in this colour as far as the same stripe is worked on the body, then change to 1 strand coral M + 1 strand raspberry V and work to finished length (both on body and sleeves).
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Body: The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front. Cast on 95-107-113-119-131 stitches (incl. 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Work Stripe pattern (body) - see description above - NOTE: start with 1 row purl from the wrong side, then work 3 cm rib with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and knit 3 in each side - see description of band above. Remember buttonholes on right band. After the rib, change to circular needle size 7 mm and continue with stocking stitch to finished length. At the same time, adjust the number of stitches to 92-100-108-116-124 stitches on first row after rib. Then insert 1 marker thread 25-27-29-31-33 stitches in from each side. There are now 42-46-50-54-58 stitches between marker threads mid back. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in each side every 10 cm a total of 2 times = 100-108-116-124-132 m. When piece measures 23-25-27-28-29 cm work the next row as follows (from the right side): 24-26-28-29-31 stitches = right front piece, cast off 6-6-6-8-8 stitches for armhole, work 40-44-48-50-54 stitches = back piece, cast off 6-6-6-8-8 stitches for armhole, work 24-26-28-29-31 stitches = left front piece. Lay piece to one side and work sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 28-28-35-35-35 stitches with doubled pointed needles size 6 mm and 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Work Stripe pattern (sleeves) - see description above - NOTE: Start with 1 round stocking stitch, then work 2 rounds rib (= K3/ P4). On the next round decrease all P4 to P3 = 24-24-30-30-30 stitches. Continue with this rib until piece measures 3 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and continue with stocking stitch to finished length. At the same time, on the first row after the rib adjust the number of stitches to 22-24-26-26-26 stitches. When piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve every 7.5-8-9-6.5-6 cm a total of 5-5-5-7-8 times = 32-34-36-40-42 stitches. When piece measures 38-41-44-48-50 cm cast off 6-6-6-8-8 stitches mid under sleeve = 26-28-30-32-34 stitches. Lay piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

Yoke: Place sleeves on same circular needle as body where you have cast off stitches for armholes = 140-152-164-172-184 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads). Work 2-1-1-2-2 rows before starting to decrease.

Raglan: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of all marker threads (= 8 decreases per row). Decrease every 2nd row - see Decrease tip: 9-10-11-12-13 times.

Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 31-33-36-37-39 cm - adjust so that you have worked at least 2 rows with the colour in the last stripe before the neck starts (= 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand raspberry Vivaldi) - place the outermost 8-8-9-8-9 stitches in each side on 1 thread for neck. Then decrease in each side towards neck every 2nd row: 2 stitches 1-0-0-0-0 time 1 stitch 1-3-3-4-4 times.
After all the decreases to raglan and neck there are 46-50-52-52-54 stitches left on needle.

Neck: Knit up approx. 11 to 15 stitches in each side at front of neck (incl. stitches from thread) with 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand raspberry Vivaldi (= the same colours as at top of sleeves and body). Place all stitches on circular needle size 6 mm = approx. 68 to 84 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side at the same time as you decrease evenly to 44-46-48-50-55 stitches, then knit 1 row from the right side before casting off loosely with purl from the wrong side - so the cast-off edge is not tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch at the same time as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal).

Assembly: Sew opening under sleeves.

Crochet edge: Work 1 row of chain-spaces around bottom of both sleeves, around neck, down both front pieces and along the bottom edge of body. Work with hook size 4.5 mm and lime Vivaldi as follows: 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 5 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round.

Sew on buttons.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 89-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Mia Hansen 28.01.2019 - 17:32:

Begge garntypene er utgått

Natise Houston 14.04.2017 - 02:22:

It sure does! Thank you so much! Going to see where to purchase the yarn. Have a blessed evening :)

Natise Houston 13.04.2017 - 20:30:

Thank you for responding. I only see the size of the circular needle, not the length. I would like to make it sized 5/6. Please advice. Thank you.

DROPS Design 13.04.2017 kl. 21:21:

Dear Natise, Since it is a jacket, knit back and forth (except for the sleeves which are knit with dpn's anyway), the normal, 80 cm long circular needle should work well. I hope this helps, happy knitting!

Natise Houston 04.04.2017 - 03:08:

Hi, What length circular needles do you use for this please.

DROPS Design 04.04.2017 kl. 09:50:

Dear Natise. It depends on what size you are knitting. On the smallest sizes you can choose a smaller size than the largest sizes. You can also see the measurment in the chart at the bottom to choose how long needles you want. Happy Knitting!

Nadine 18.07.2015 - 16:33:

Bonjour Comment réaliser ce modèle aux aiguilles car je ne suis pas du tout à l'aise avec les aiguilles circulaires....je voudrais tellement réaliser ce tricot que je trouve ravissant pour ma petite fille Merci vraiment de votre aide

DROPS Design 27.07.2015 kl. 15:07:

Bonjour Nadine, le dos et les devants se tricotent en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire, vous pouvez les tricoter sur aiguilles droites de la même façon, pensez à bien vérifier votre tension: vos mailles seront plus serrées. Pour les manches, montez 2 m en plus pour les coutures de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Tove 09.05.2015 - 22:33:

I 3. linie i opskriften for Ryg-og forstykke står der: *derefter strikkes de næste 3 cm i Rib med 4 forkantm i retstrik og 3 r i hver side* Hvad er det for 3 r, der skal strikkes lige før/efter de 4 forkantm ?

DROPS Design 11.05.2015 kl. 16:06:

Hej Tove. Ja, du skal strikke ribben, men der menes du skal starte/slutte med 3 r i hver side ved de 4 forkantm (ikke starte/slutte med 3 vr).

Sara 27.04.2014 - 19:19:

2 Fäden: Muskat und Vivaldi

Schell 27.04.2014 - 17:27:

Guten tag in dieser anleitung werden nadeln 6 und 7 empfohlen, muskat ist aber mit nadeln 4 angegeben was stimmt? vielen dank g. schell

DROPS Design 28.04.2014 kl. 00:24:

Liebe Frau Schell, Sie stricken den Pullover mit Muskat und Vivaldi zusammen, also mit 2 Fäden. Daher ergibt sich eine größere Nadelstärke als für Muskat allein. Beachten Sie, dass die Nadelstärke nur ein Anhaltspunkt ist, Sie müssen die Nadel verwenden, die Sie benötigen, um die angegebene Maschenprobe zu erreichen. Die Maschenprobe wird auch mit beiden Garnqualitäten zusammen, also 2-fädig, gestrickt.

Astrid Tingdahl 30.01.2014 - 09:27:

Hur tvättar man plagget eftersom det är två så olika garnkvalite? Kan man blanda cotton merino och Vivaldi?

DROPS Design 30.01.2014 kl. 10:26:

Hej Astrid. Hvis 1 af garnerne er haandvask (Vivaldi), saa skal du altid vaske (tvätta) i haanden. Du kan sagtens erstatte Muskat med Cotton Merino.

Anne Courgnaud 12.06.2012 - 13:50:

Il n'y est pas mentionné les ages correspondant aux mesures

DROPS Design 12.06.2012 kl. 14:21:

Bonjour Anne, les tailles et les fournitures ont été ajustées, merci, bon tricot !

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