DROPS / 140 / 7

Christel by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS vest with round yoke in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-019
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-110-122-134 cm /
33"-36"-40"-43½"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 54-56-57-60-62-64 cm /
21 1/4"-22"-22½"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4"

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 3609, red:
400-400-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 6 rows in pattern A.3 = 10 cm / 4'' in width (1 repetition A.1 measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' in width, 1 repetition A.2 measures 2½ cm / 7/8'' in width, 1 repetition A.1/A.2 measures approx. 2½ cm / 7/8'' vertically).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 522 (20 mm): 4 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SC ROW:
Beg every sc row with ch 1 (not counted as 1st sc), work 1 sc in every st the entire row, turn.

PATTERN A.1 (divisible by 5 + 1):
ROW 1 (= RS): Ch 4 (= 1 tr) in 1st sc, continue as follows – also see 1st row in diagram A-1: * ch 2, work 1 bobble with 4 tr, ch 2, 1 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 1, 3 sc in 1st ch-space, skip 1st bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space, continue as follows – also see 2nd row in diagram A-1: * 1 sc in next tr, 2 sc in next ch-space, skip next bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc more in last ch-space on row (= same no of sc as before).

PATTERN A.2 (divisible by 4 + 1):
ROW 1 (= RS): Ch 4 (= 1 tr) in 1st sc, continue as follows – also see 1st row in diagram A-2: * ch 1, work 1 bobble with 3 tr, ch 1, 1 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 1, 2 sc in 1st ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space, continue as follows – also see 2nd row in diagram A-2: * 1 sc in next tr, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc more in last ch-space on row (= same no of sc as before).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.

DC ROW:
Work all dc rows from RS. Beg every dc row with ch 3 (= 1st dc), skip 1st sc from previous row, work 1 dc in every sc the entire row, turn.

PATTERN A.3:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 1 dc row.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 sc row.

ROUNDS WITH SC:
Beg every sc round with ch 1 (not counted as 1st sc), work 1 sc in every st the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

DECREASE TIP - SC:
Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 sc dec over 2 sts
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Ch 157-172-187-202-222-242 LOOSELY with Lima on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7, turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 156-171-186-201-221-241 sc, turn (1st row = RS). Work SC ROWS - read explanation above - until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''.
Then work PATTERN A.1 - read explanation above = 31-34-37-40-44-48 repetitions + 1 tr.
When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 156-171-186-201-221-241 sc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work A.1 a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times vertically - but work last sc row from WS as follows: ch 1, 2 sc in 1st ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space, * 1 sc in next tr, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 2 sc in last ch-space = 125-137-149-161-177-193 sc, turn piece.
Then work PATTERN A.2 - read explanation above.
When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 125-137-149-161-177-193 sc on row. Work A.2 a total of 5 times vertically - but on last sc row from WS inc 10-10-12-14-16-18 sc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 135-147-161-175-193-211 sc.
Piece now measures approx. 27-27-27-30-30-30 cm / 10½"-10½"-10½"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4".
Continue to work PATTERN A.3 - read explanation above - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st sc row from WS inc 9-9-11-13-15-17 sts evenly = 144-156-172-188-208-228 sc. Work A.3 a total of 6 times (last row = sc row from WS), piece now measures approx. 37-37-37-40-40-40 cm / 14½"-14½"-14½"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4", cut and fasten the thread. Insert 1 marker 36-39-43-47-52-57 sc in from each side on last sc row (= 72-78-86-94-104-114 sc between markers on back piece).

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round. Ch 50-52-56-60-64-66 LOOSELY on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 with Lima and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 1st round as follows: ch 1, then work 1 sc in every ch, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) = 50-52-56-60-64-66 sc. Continue in the round with ROUNDS WITH SC - read explanation above - until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''. Now insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 12-12-12-14-16-16 sts under sleeve = 38-40-44-46-48-50 sc between markers on top of sleeve. Put piece aside and crochet another sleeve edge the same way.

YOKE:
Insert 1 new marker mid front on body, now measure piece from here. Work 1st row from RS as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 30-33-37-40-44-49 sts on right front piece, work 1 dc in each of the 38-40-44-46-48-50 sts from one sleeve edge (i.e. do not work over the 12-12-12-14-16-16 sts between markers mid under sleeve), skip 12-12-12-14-16-16 sts in the middle of the side on body (i.e. 6-6-6-7-8-8 sts on each side of marker), work 1 dc in each of the next 60-66-74-80-88-98 sts (= back piece), work 1 dc in each of the 38-40-44-46-48-50 sts from the other sleeve edge, skip 12-12-12-14-16-16 sts in the side of body (i.e. 6-6-6-7-8-8 sts on each side of marker), and work 1 dc in each of the last 30-33-37-40-44-49 sts on left front piece = 196-212-236-252-272-296 dc.
Continue back and forth with A.3 as before - AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd-4th-4th-4th-5th-5th sc row from WS, dec 32-36-40-44-48-54 sc evenly - READ DECREASE TIP - SC. Repeat dec on 6th-7th-7th-7th-8th-8th sc row, then on 8th-9th-9th-9th-10th-11th sc row and finally on 9th-10th-11th-11th-12th-13th sc row = 68-68-76-76-80-80 sc remain (last row = WS), yoke now measures approx. 15-17-18-18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' from marker. Do not cut the thread.

NECK EDGE:
Then work an elevation at the back of neck as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Beg at the top of right front piece, work ch 1, 1 sc in 1st sc, * ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around the neck, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch over every sc around the neck until 12 sts remain (= 6 sc + 6 ch) on right front piece.
ROW 3: Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch over every sc until 12 sts remain on left front piece, turn piece.
ROW 4: Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch in every sc around the neck until 18 sts remain before edge on right front piece (= 9 sc and 9 ch), turn piece.
ROW 5: Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch over every sc around the neck until 18 sts remain before edge on left front piece, turn piece.
ROW 6: Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch in every sc around the neck until 24 sts remain before edge on right front piece (= 12 sc and 12 ch), turn piece.
ROW 7: Work 1 sc in every ch and 1 ch over every sc until 24 sts remain before edge on left front piece. Do not cut the thread.
Then work 1 row with sc in every sc and in every ch, then work sc rows until edge in sc measures 2 cm / 3/4'' mid front, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

BAND:
Work from RS approx. 90 - 110 sc along the entire edge mid front on right front piece (incl neck edge). Then work 1 sc row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 92-94-98-102-104-108 sc. Insert 1 marker in the transition between A.2 and A.3.
On next row from RS work sc - AT THE SAME TIME work 4 buttonholes evenly between marker and at the top edge in the neck (1 buttonhole = work ch 2, skip the next 2 sc) - the last buttonhole should be approx. 1 cm / ½'' from the top edge. On next row work 2 sc in every ch-space for buttonhole. Work sc rows until band measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', cut and fasten the thread.
Work 1 band along left front piece the same way but without buttonhole. Sew 4 buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.09.2012
Then work PATTERN A.1 - read explanation above = 31-34-37-40-44-48 repetitions + 1 tr.
When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 156-171-186-201-221-241 sc on row..........

Then work PATTERN A.2 - read explanation above.
When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 125-137-149-161-177-193 sc on row.....

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 bobble with 4 tr: Work 1 tr in next sc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 sc the same way, pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.
= 1 bobble with 3 tr: Work 1 tr in next sc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 sc the same way, pull thread through all 4 sts on hook.
= 1 tr
= 1 sc
= 1 ch
= 1ST ROW in patterns
= 2ND ROW in patterns


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

Cornelia Zeller 13.02.2020 - 16:36:

Ich wollte die Anleitung zum Model Christel ausdrucken. Leider fehlen beim Ausdruck die Bilder (Diagramme). Muss ich bei Drucken etwas Spezielles berücksichtigen? Freundliche Grüsse C. Zeller

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 08:07:

LIebe Frau Zeller, Diagramme sind wieder da - jetzt können Sie die Diagramme ausdrücken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

SHIRLEY PACK 28.08.2019 - 22:28:

I am totally confused with the yoke instructions........at the end of the body I have 156 stitches but at the end of the yoke there are supposed to be 212 without any increases. Where do t he extra 56 stitches come from??

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 09:26:

Dear Mrs Pack, after you have worked body (= 156 sts), you now work both sleeve edges, then work yoke over the 156 sts + 40 sts for each sleeve skipping 12 sts on each side (for sleeves/armholes) 156-12-12 sts (body) = 132+40-40 sts for the sleeves = 212 sts. Happy crocheting!

Liliane Lohsmann 26.10.2017 - 10:49:

Hallo, ich habe das Problem nach meinem Dafürhalten gelöst und es hat auch geklappt. Die Weste ist sehr schön geworden. Tschüss bis zum nächsten Mal.

Liliane Lohsmann 20.10.2017 - 17:58:

Hallo, es wäre schön, wenn Sie meine Frage vom 17. d.M. beantworten würden. L.Lohsmann

DROPS Design 23.10.2017 kl. 09:21:

Liebe Frau Lohsmann, Entschuldigung für die Späte Anwort. Am besten zeigen Sie die Jacke Ihr Laden, es wird einfacher für sie zu finden, warum es so aussieht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Liliane Lohsmann 17.10.2017 - 11:55:

Hallo, ich habe die Weste CHRISTEL fast fertig., bleibe jedoch immer bei der Fertigstellung hängen, u.zwar bleibt beim Hals durch die stufenweise Abnahme , beim Anhäkeln der Blende beideitig eine Ecke gerade stehen, also nicht, wie de Blende oben, abgerundet. Warum ? Was habe ich falsch gelesen oder interpretiert, Danke

DROPS Design 26.10.2017 kl. 10:19:

Liebe Frau Lohsmann, am besten zeigen Sie Ihr Laden die Weste - Fotos können Sie auch per mail schicken, so können Sie eine bessere und persönnliche Antwort bekommen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Malin 01.04.2016 - 14:53:

Strålande mönster! 2 små missar: 1) A3..."klipp av och fäst tråden" behövs inte, man bara fortsätter .2) Ok..."upprepa minskn. på VART 6:e ...v" är fel. Vart behövs inte.

Elena 02.03.2016 - 00:31:

Me encanta este model Pedro no entiendo LA union de las mangas en los marca punto ,podrias por favor ayudarme a salvar este obtaculo, pues no encuentro un video tutorial al respecto.gracias.Saludos

DROPS Design 02.03.2016 kl. 10:46:

Hola Elena, antes de unir las mangas y el cuerpo para trabajar el canesú tenemos: 2 MP en el cuerpo y 2 en cada manga (= 6 MP). En el cuerpo tenemos 36 pts (talla S) de un delantero, 1 MP, 72 pts de la espalda, 1 MP, 36 pts del otro delantero. En la manga tenemos los 12 pts centrales bajo la manga con 1 MP a cda lado y ahora para trabajar el canesú trabajaríamos como sigue: los primeros 30 pts de 1 delantero, ahora los 38 pts no centrales de la manga, los 60 pts centrales de la espalda, los 38 pts de la otra manga y los 30 pts más externos del otro delantero. En este caso tenemos en cada lateral una abertura de 12 pts tanto en el cuerpo como en las mangas que se cosen al finalizar.

Elena 02.03.2016 - 00:21:

Me encanta este model Pedro no entiendo LA union de las mangas en los marca punto ,podrias por favor ayudarme a salvar este obtaculo, pues no encuentro un video tutorial al respecto.gracias.Saludos

DROPS Design 02.03.2016 kl. 10:49:

Hola Elena, antes de unir las mangas y el cuerpo para trabajar el canesú tenemos: 2 MP en el cuerpo y 2 en cada manga (= 6 MP). En el cuerpo tenemos 36 pts (talla S) de un delantero, 1 MP, 72 pts de la espalda, 1 MP, 36 pts del otro delantero. En la manga tenemos los 12 pts centrales bajo la manga con 1 MP a cda lado y ahora para trabajar el canesú trabajaríamos como sigue: los primeros 30 pts de 1 delantero, ahora los 38 pts no centrales de la manga, los 60 pts centrales de la espalda, los 38 pts de la otra manga y los 30 pts más externos del otro delantero. En este caso tenemos en cada lateral una abertura de 12 pts tanto en el cuerpo como en las mangas que se cosen al finalizar.

Meta Karcher 27.06.2015 - 10:59:

Hallo, vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe, dann ist es mir natürlich klar, das hatte ich nicht verstanden. Jetzt passt es:-)

Meta Karcher 18.06.2015 - 21:43:

Nach der Rundpasse habe ich noch 76 verbleibende Maschen. Bei der Halsblende soll ich nun jeweils 2 x 12 M stehen lassen, dann 2 x 18 M und anschließend noch 2 x 24 M, das macht zusammen 108 M, ich habe aber doch nur noch 76 M übrig, wie soll das denn funktionieren? Ich habe vielleicht einen Denkfehler, aber so klappt das auf keinen Fall. (Ich habe nach Größe L gehäkelt). Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe. Meta Karcher

DROPS Design 24.06.2015 kl. 10:56:

In den 18 M sind ja die 12 M vom ersten Mal enthalten, es wird immer wieder bis zum Ende der R gerechnet, die M kommen nicht zusätzlich hinzu. Also: 2 x 12 M, dann je 6 M zusätzlich stehen lassen, dann nochmal je 6 M = 2 x 24 M nach R 7 = 48 M insgesamt, die Sie unbehäkelt lassen.

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