DROPS Baby / 21 / 12

Honey Suckle by DROPS Design

Set of knitted vest and slippers in garter st with crochet borders for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-040-by
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (100-150) g colour no 03, light yellow
50 g for all sizes in colour no 04, yellow (for crochet border)

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 04, yellow
50 g for all sizes in colour no 03, light yellow

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 52 rows in garter st and 26 x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2 mm - for crochet border

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to front piece):
Inc on every other and every 3rd row as follows: Work * 1 row without inc, 1 row with inc towards mid front, 2 rows without inc, 1 row with inc towards mid front *, repeat from *-*.
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the outermost st towards mid front.

Worked back and forth on needle.
Beg with one front piece, work up to shoulder. Work the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LOOSELY cast on 26-30-34 (37-41) sts on needle size 3 mm with light yellow. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row inc 1 new st towards mid front - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc towards mid front alternately on every other and every 3rd row a total of 18-19-24 (28-30) times = 44-49-58 (65-71) sts. K 10 rows after last inc. Piece measures approx. 11-12-15 (17-18) cm.
On next row dec 1 st towards mid front by K the outermost 2 sts tog. Repeat dec on every row (i.e. at end of rows from RS and in beg of rows WS): a total of 0-0-11 (19-21) times and then on every other row (i.e. at the end of rows from RS): a total of 28-29-25 (21-23) times (28-29-36 (40-44) sts dec in total).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-19 (20-21) cm, cast off for armholes, cast off at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. After all cast offs there are 9-13-15 (18-20) sts on the needle for shoulder, continue to work.
When piece measures 25-27-29 (31-33) cm, insert a marker = mid on top of shoulder. Continue to work down the back piece – AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of row towards neck, repeat inc at the end of next row towards neck = 13-17-19 (22-24) sts. Slip all sts on a stitch holder – 1st row when continuing on back piece will now beg from RS.

Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed – adjust so that first row when continuing on back piece is worked from RS.

Work one front piece on to needle (work from armhole and in towards neck), cast on 12-12-16 (16-20) new sts (= back of neck) and work the other front piece on to needle (work from neck out towards armhole) = 38-46-54 (60-68) sts.
Continue to work in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures 6½-7½-8½ (9½-10½) cm, cast on new sts at the end of every row in each side for armholes: 1 st 2 times, 2 sts 1 time and 3 sts 1 time = 52-60-68 (74-82) sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx. 25-27-29 (31-33) cm – fold piece double at markers on shoulders and make sure that front and back pieces are the same length – cast off.

Sew side seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts.

Crochet with yellow on hook size 2 mm around the entire opening on vest as follows (do not crochet along the bottom edge): 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip 2 sts / 4 rows in garter st, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*, when you get to the tip on front piece, crochet a tie as follows: 1 dc in tip, then work ch for approx. 25 cm, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch on return, then work 1 dc in tip of front piece again, continue crochet border around the neck of vest until the tip of the other front piece, crochet another tie as on first front piece and continue until bottom edge.
Work the same way around both armholes.
Then work another tie, similar to the one in each tip, on the inside of the seam in the right side and on the outside of the seam in the left side – make sure that the ties are at the same height as tips on front pieces.

The bootee is worked back and forth from mid back. Cast on 48-52-56 (56) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with 2 threads yellow Baby Merino. Remove 1 thread and work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 5-6-6 (7) cm – adjust so that next row is worked from WS. P 1 row from WS while at the same time dec 14-14-18 (14) sts evenly = 34-38-38 (42) sts. On next row work eyelet holes as follows from RS: K 1, *K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. P 1 row from WS.
Now slip the outermost 12-13-13 (15) sts in each side on a stitch holder. Work 4 - 4½ - 5½ (6½) cm in stocking st over the middle 10-12-12 (12) sts. Slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and knit up 10-11-13 (16) sts on each side of mid piece = 54-60-64 (74) sts on needle. K every row over all sts for 3-4-5 (5) cm while at the same time after 1½ - 2 - 2½ (3) cm, dec on every other row as follows until completed: Dec 1 st at the beg and the end of row and K 2 tog on each side of the 2 mid sts. Cast off and sew tog mid under foot and continue up mid back in front loop of outermost sts to avoid a chunky seam.
Knit another bootee the same way.

Cut 3 threads light yellow of approx. 1 metres, twine them tightly tog, fold them double and they will twine again, tie a knot in each end. Thread tie up and down through the eyelet holes on bootee.

Crochet a border at the top of bootee on hook size 2.5 mm with light yellow as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, 1 dc in each of the 3 next sts on bootee *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Lisa 21.04.2020 - 11:23:

Merci beaucoup pour vos explications !!

Lisa 20.04.2020 - 17:03:

Bonjour , je tricote la taille 6 mois du gilet sans manche et j'ai terminé le devant droit qui reste en attente . Aujourd'hui je viens de commencer le devant gauche . Je suppose qu'ensuite il faut tricoter le dos ?

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 10:03:

Bonjour Lisa, après le devant droit, vous tricotez effectivement le devant gauche comme le devant droit, mais en sens inverse (pour qu'ils soient tous les 2 en effet miroir), puis vous tricoterez le dos ainsi: les mailles du 1er devant, vous monterez les mailles de l'encolure et vous tricoterez les mailles de l'autre devant et continuerez ensuite le dos, de haut en bas (vous monterez les mailles des emmanchures). Bon tricot!

Lisa 19.04.2020 - 16:43:

Bonjour Je trouve que vos explications ne sont pas assez claires . J'ai tricoté le devant droit , monté 2m puis 22m côté encolure, et là , j'avoue que je suis perdue ... Que dois-je faire maintenant ? Ce n'est pas très détaillé ! Merci pour votre réponse .

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 10:32:

Bonjour Lisa, je suis désolée, je ne comprends pas votre question, quelle taille tricotez-vous? Où en êtes-vous rendue exactement? Merci pour ces informations complémentaires qui seront utiles pour vous aider, à bientôt!

Heidrun 27.08.2017 - 21:53:

Ich würde die Weste gerne etwas kleiner stricken. Gibt es auch Maschenzahlen für Neugeborene?

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 09:24:

Liebe Heidrun, hier finden Sie Anleitungen für Neugeborene (= 0-1 Monate (48/52 cm)). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Laura Menegatti 29.06.2017 - 18:52:

Scusate, nell'ultima frase della mia domanda appena inviata, volevo dire "dopo di che si andrà a fare le diminuzioni". Grazie

Laura Menegatti 29.06.2017 - 18:50:

Buon pomeriggio. Per favore, cosa significa aumentare 1 m. verso il centro? Vuol dire lavorare 2 volte 1 m. davanti e dietro (con un kf&b o altro tipo di aumento) in modo che il davanti (la parte che sta sopra, per intenderci) deve andare ad allargarsi fino ad un certo punto, che si comincerà diminuire? Grazie e buon lavoro

DROPS Design 29.06.2017 kl. 21:02:

Buonasera Laura. Sì è corretto. Devo aumentare come indicato nel suggerimento per gli aumenti in modo da formare la punta. Buon lavoro!

Marie 23.06.2017 - 19:22:

Die ersten 19 Maschen, die man aufnehmen soll ab der 2. Reihe, sind die dann jede Reihe oder alle Zwei Reihen? Danke

DROPS Design 26.06.2017 kl. 09:30:

Liebe Marie, diese Zunahmen (gegen die Mitte) sollen abwechselnd in jeder 2. und 3. Reihe gestrickt (siehe hier. Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nicki 15.05.2017 - 23:16:

Hallo, beim rechten Vorderteil, nach den 18 cm soll man an der Seite Maschen abketten. Ist damit der Seitenrand und nicht hin zur vorderen Mitte gemeint? Sollen die letzten 2 Maschen am Rand abgkettet werden? Und in welchem Abstand? 1 Mal 2M, 1 Mal 3M.. wieviele Reihen soll dazwischen normal gestrickt werden? Ich freue mich auf badige Antwort.

DROPS Design 16.05.2017 kl. 08:46:

Liebe Nicki, die Abnahmen werden gegen die vordere Mitte gearbeitet, bei jeder R. (also bei der Hin- und Rückreihe = dh die 2 ersten oder die 2 letzten M. zs stricken) wiederholen: Total 0-0-11 (19-21) Mal. Dann bei jeder 2. R. (auf der Vorderseite = die 2 ersten M zs stricken)) total 28-29-25 (21-23) Mal. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maria Gold-Tajalli 15.03.2017 - 11:59:

Ich habe zwei Fragen:am Ende der Anleitung für die rechten Seite was heißt das mit dem markieren, auf welcher Seite? und wo soll ich die zusätzlichen 4 Maschen anschlagen, in der Mitte oder an einem Ende? Danke, Maria

DROPS Design 15.03.2017 kl. 12:03:

Liebe Frau Gold-Tajalli, der Markierer muss die Länge markieren, so er muss zwischen den Maschen eingesetzt werden. Die 2 x 2 M sollen gegen den Halsausschnit angeschlagen, dh bei dem rechten Vorderteil schlagen Sie diese Maschen am Ende einer Rückreihe an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Stephanie 03.08.2016 - 10:55:

Hallo Drops-Team, bitte erklärt mir doch kurz die Zunahmen - ist es richtig, dass sich sich die Zunahmen mal am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe befinden und mal am Ende einer Rück-Reihe? Oder nimmt man am Anfang jeder 2. und 3. Hin-Reihe auf? Danke und liebe Grüße!

DROPS Design 08.08.2016 kl. 09:38:

Liebe Stephanie, ja, da abwechselnd 1 und 2 Reihen ohne Zunahmen über die Zunahmereihe gestrickt werden, muss die Zunahme auch je nachdem in der Hin- oder Rück-R gemacht werden.

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