DROPS Baby / 21 / 1

Buttercup by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with hood and slippers for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-038-by
Yarn group A
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-200-200 (250-250)g colour no 03, light yellow
50 g for all sizes in colour no 04, yellow

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm (60 cm) - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - for edge in garter st
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm - for crochet border
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS LIGHT, NO 503: 4 pieces
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SLIPPERS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14) cm

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in colour no 04, yellow
50 g for all sizes in colour no 03, light yellow

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 52 rows in garter st and 26 x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2 mm - for crochet border

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

SHORT ROWS:
* Work 2 rows in garter st over the 24-24-26 (28-28) band sts, work 2 rows in garter st only over the outermost 12-12-13 (14-14) sts. NOTE: When turning mid piece, slip first st. Tighten thread and continue as before. This is done to avoid holes in the transitions *.

BUTTON HOLES:
The jacket is double-breasted. Cast off for 4 button holes on right band.
1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog fourth and fifth st from edge and make 1 YO. On same row also K tog fourth and fifth LAST st on band, make 1 YO.
Cast off for 2 button holes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 14 and 19 cm
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 16 and 21 cm
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 18 and 24 cm
SIZE 2 YEARS: 20 and 27 cm
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 22 and 30 cm

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Knit the other front piece, place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Cast on 43-47-51 (56-59) sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 24-24-26 (28-28) band sts towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work 6 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work in stocking st but continue to work the 24-24-26 (28-28) band sts towards mid front in Garter st. When piece measures 4 cm, work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above (1st row = from WS). Repeat from *-* 1 time every 4 cm until piece measures 19-21-24 (27-30) cm, then repeat from *-* 1 time every other cm until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm, cast on new sts at the end of every row from WS (towards the side of sleeve): 6 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (2-3) times and 21-22-22 (25-26) sts 1 time = 84-89-99 (115-127) sts for shoulder/sleeve.
Work inc sts in stocking st. When all sts have been cast on, continue in stocking st and Garter st as before while AT THE SAME TIME also working the outermost 10 sts on sleeve in garter st.
When piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm, insert a marker = mid on top of shoulder. Now slip the 24-24-26 (28-28) band sts towards mid front on a stitch holder. Then cast on 2 new sts at the end of row from RS (towards neck), repeat inc on next row towards neck = 64-69-77 (91-103) sts on needle.
Work 1 row from WS.
Put all sts on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as left front piece but reversed. In addition cast off for BUTTON HOLES on band - see explanation above. NOTE! Slip sts on a stitch holder after the last row with inc (i.e. last row = from WS).

BACK PIECE:
Work left front piece on to circular needle, cast on 16-16-18 (20-20) new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece on to circular needle = 144-154-172 (202-226) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM MARKERS ON SHOULDERS.
Continue in stocking st and Garter st at the end on each sleeve back and forth on needle.
When piece measures 8½-9½-10 (10-11) cm, beg to cast off sleeve sts. Cast off at beg of every row in each side as follows: 21-22-22 (25-26) sts 1 time, 8 sts 1-1-1 (2-3) times and 6 sts 2-2-3 (3-3) times = 62-70-76 (84-90) sts on needle. Continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in each side.
When piece measures approx. 26-28-32 (36-39) cm – fold the piece double at the markers on shoulders and make sure that the back piece is as long as front piece down to rows in garter st, switch to needle size 2.5 mm and work 6 rows in garter st, then cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

HOOD:
Knit up approx. 102-106-112 (118-122) sts (incl sts from stitch holders at the front – NOTE: If more/fewer sts have been knitted up, dec/inc evenly on 1st row. Continue in garter st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME working short rows in each side every other cm – SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE. Cast off when hood measures approx. 21-23-25 (27-28) cm. Sew hood neatly tog at the top - sew in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border around the entire jacket.
Beg at the bottom on right front piece and crochet with 2 threads yellow Baby Merino and hook size 3 mm as follows:
Work 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet the same way around the openings on sleeves.
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked back and forth from mid back. Cast on 48-52-56 (56) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with 2 threads yellow Baby Merino. Remove 1 thread and work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 5-6-6 (7) cm – adjust so that next row is worked from WS. P 1 row from WS while at the same time dec 14-14-18 (14) sts evenly = 34-38-38 (42) sts. On next row work eyelet holes as follows from RS: K 1, *K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1. P 1 row from WS. Now slip the outermost 12-13-13 (15) sts in each side on a stitch holder. Work 4 - 4½ - 5½ (6½) cm in stocking st over the middle 10-12-12 (12) sts. Slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and knit up 10-11-13 (16) sts on each side of mid piece = 54-60-64 (74) sts on needle. K every row over all sts for 3-4-5 (5) cm while at the same time after 1½ - 2 - 2½ (3) cm, dec on every other row as follows until completed: Dec 1 st at the beg and the end of row and K 2 tog on each side of the 2 mid sts. Cast off and sew tog mid under foot and continue up mid back in front loop of outermost sts to avoid a chunky seam.
Knit another slipper the same way.

TIES:
Cut 3 threads light yellow of approx. 1 metres, twine them tightly tog, fold them double and they will twine again, tie a knot in each end. Thread tie up and down through the eyelet holes on slipper.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border at the top of slipper on hook size 2 mm with light yellow as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2012
JACKET:
CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border around the entire jacket.
Beg at the bottom on right front piece and crochet with 2 threads yellow Baby Merino and hook size 3 mm as follows:
Work 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet the same way around the openings on sleeves.

SLIPPER:
CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border at the top of slipper on hook size 2 mm with light yellow as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch, skip approx. ½ cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.
Updated online: 03.07.2014
New yarn amount in jacket, size: 6/9 months, 2 and 3/4 years.
Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-200-200 (250-250) g colour no 03, light yellow

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (239)

Donna Mosberger 16.09.2020 - 16:39:

Thank you for your response for pattern 21-1. So if I understand your answer correctly I am supposed to now have a rim of purled stitches every 1 1/2 inches because I’ve garter stitched the short row on the body and the band of the garment. Wish I could send you a picture

DROPS Design 17.09.2020 kl. 09:39:

Dear Mrs Mosberger, the short rows are only worked in the front band stitches = the sts worked in garter stitch , all other stitches are worked in stocking stitch. But on every 4", you will owrk 2 short rows over the sts towards mid front, on left front piece, start from WS: work 24-28 sts, work and work the return row, turn and work 12-14 sts, turn and work return row. Work now all stitches as before. You can show your work to your store (even per mail) and/or get helped from other knitters in our group DROPS Workshop. Happy knitting!

Donna Mosberger 16.09.2020 - 02:56:

I'm struggling with the Left Front Piece where I'm to start the short rows. 2 rows in garter stitch for the band work just fine, but then I'm confused on how to then work the 2 garter stitch rows over the outermost stitches.

DROPS Design 16.09.2020 kl. 08:56:

Dear Mrs Mosberger, work *2 rows over the first 24-28 sts, 2 rows over the first 12-13-14 sts (see size)* then continue working as before = garter stitch and stocking stitch. The short rows in garter stitch will compensate the difference of height between number of rows in garter stitch and in stocking stitch for the same height. Happy knitting!

CG 31.08.2020 - 21:59:

Hallo. 1 Krausrippe (je rechts) über die Blenden entspricht Glatt(Vorderseite rechts Rückseite links) und dazwischen die verkürzten Reihen alle 4 cm oder? .... wenn ich das so stricke ist die Arbeit am Übergang zur Krausrippe schmäler als im Bereich vom glatt Gestrickten. Stimmt das so ?

DROPS Design 01.09.2020 kl. 09:20:

Liebe CG, Sie stricken die verkürzten Reihen so in jede 4. cm: *1 Krausrippe über die ersten 24-28 M, 2 Krausrippe über die eresten 12-14 M*, dazwischen werden die Blendemaschen krausrechts gestrickt und die anderen glatt rechts, dh diese 2 Krausrippen stricken Sie nur in jeder 4. cm beidseitig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birgit Best 03.08.2020 - 16:31:

Ich habe Probleme mit den verkürzten Reihen im linken Vorderteil von Drops Baby 21-1. Warum wird die verkürzte Reihen nicht über die komplette Blende gestrickt. So habe ich die Anleitung verstanden: ich stricke die 24 Maschen der Blende rechts. Statt jetzt die linken Maschen zu stricken, wende ich und stricke 12 Maschen der Blende rechts zurück. Nun wende ich mitten in der Blende und stricke die 12 Maschen zurück und stricke dann die restlichen 23Maschen des glatt rechten Gestricks.

DROPS Design 04.08.2020 kl. 09:57:

Liebe Frau Best, es stimmt so, so werden die verkürzten Reihen gestrickt, dh 2 Reihen extra über die Hälfte von den Blendemaschen und beidseitig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sy 30.07.2020 - 14:04:

Ich muss leider sagen, das ich diese Anleitung sehr verwirrend finde.\r\nDie Anleitung macht für mich keinen Sinn.\r\nZ.B. verkürzte Reihe, warum und wie? Wird die Jacke in einen Stück gestrickt?\r\nWird beim Halsausschnitt Maschen abgenommen ?\r\nDanke

DROPS Design 30.07.2020 kl. 15:43:

Liebe Sy, die Arbeit wird auf einer Rundnadel hin und zurück gestrickt. Am Vorderteil anfangen, für den Ärmel aufnehmen und bis zur Schultern stricken. Danach das zweite Vorderteil stricken. Die Teile zusammenhängen und das Rückenteil nach unten stricken. Wenn man kraus rechts strickt, braucht mann mehr Reihen in der Höhe als für glatt rechts, deshalb wird man die VERKÜRZTE REIHEN stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christina Peeters 18.07.2020 - 10:49:

Wat een leuke babypatronen... Ik ga ze eerst uitgebreid bestuderen , kiezen en materiaal bestellen. Sper....

Maripola 21.04.2020 - 23:15:

Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht, wie ich 102 Maschen um den Halsausschnitt (kleinste Größe) aufnehmen soll. Ich habe 24 l. kraus +16 am Nacken+24 r. = 64M, nicht 102, und "um den Halsausschnitt" ist das auch nicht. Wenn ich an den Vorderkanten 43 l.+16 am Nacken +43 r. aufnehme, dann kann ich zwar "um den Halsausschnitt" auf 102M. stricken, aber die Krausrichtung ist dann nicht die gleiche wie vorne, sondern quer! Das kann also nicht gemeint sein; aber wie komme ich dann richtig auf 102 Maschen?

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 08:33:

Liebe Maripola, diese 102 M sollen Sie um den Halsausschnitt aufnehemen: die stillgelgeten 24 Maschen + noch weitere Maschen (in den neuen angeschlagen Maschen (2 x 2 M) gegen Hals) + 16 M am Hals Rückenteil und einige Maschen in den neu angeschlagenen Maschen vom li. Vorderteil + die 24 stillgelegten Maschen = ca 102 M, wenn Sie aber weniger Maschen aufgenommen haben, ist es auch nicht schlimm, einfach Zunahmen regelmäßig verteilt bei der 1. Reihe stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne-marie JOUGLEUX 16.03.2020 - 15:10:

1/Il est indiqué (en rouge) que ce modèle a fait l\\\'objet de corrections, je ne les ais pas trouvées.\\r\\n\\r\\n2/ Quel est l\\\'intérêt de l\\\'aiguille circulaire ?

DROPS Design 16.03.2020 kl. 15:56:

Bonjour Mme Jougleux, si vous avez imprimé les explications après la date des corrections, elles sont justes, si vous les avez imprimé avant cette date, vous pouvez les imprimer à nouveau ou vérifier les corrections concernées. On tricote en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

Birgit 03.03.2020 - 11:36:

Also die rechte Seite stricken, dann in der Rückreihe noch die Blende stricken und dann 2 Maschen zunehmen,die Blende stillegen, wieder rechte Seite stricken und in der Rückreihe direkt am Anfang 2 Maschen zunehmen? Stehe leider gerade auf dem Schlauch. Verstehe teilweise die übersetzten Begrifflichkeiten wie gegen den Hals nicht. Lieben Dank für die lieben , kompetenten Antworten.

DROPS Design 03.03.2020 kl. 11:49:

Liebe Birgit, also nein nicht genau, beim linken Vorderteil muss man so stricken: am Anfang einer Rückreihe die ersten 24-28 M (siehe Größe) (= Blendemaschen) stricken und diese Maschen stilllegen, die Reihe bis zur Ende stricken, wenden und die Hinreihe stricken, am Ende dieser Hinreihe nehmen Sie 2 neuen Maschen an = 64 bis 103 M, wenden die nächste Rückreihe stricken und alle diese Maschen stilllegen (Entschuldiung, ich war schon am rechten Vorderteil :) Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birgit 03.03.2020 - 03:32:

Folgendes verstehe ich nicht. Wo müssen die 2 Maschen zugenommen werden? Was bedeutet gegen Vorderseite?Jetzt die 24-24-26 (28-28) Blendenm auf einen Hilfsfaden legen. Weiter am Schluss der R., gegen Vorderseite 2 neue M. anschlagen (gegen den Hals). Bei der nächsten R. wiederholen = 64-69-77 (91-103) M. 1 R. auf der Rückseite stricken und danach die M. auf einen Hilfsfaden legen.

DROPS Design 03.03.2020 kl. 10:46:

Liebe Birgit, die 2 neuen Maschen sollen gegen Halsausschnnitt angeschlagen werden (diese Maschen sind für den Hals am Rückenteil), dh beim rechten Vorderteil werden diese 2 Maschen am Ende einer Rückreihe angeschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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