Cedric by DROPS Design

Knitted Pippi jacket for men with shawl collar and sripes, in DROPS Alaska. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 135-21
DROPS design: Pattern no X-372
Yarn group C


Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Colour no 03, light grey:
700-800-900-950-1050-1200 g
Colour no 53, dark pink mix:
150-150-200-200-200-200 g
Colour no 57, denim blue:
150-150-200-200-200-200 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with Alaska = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (80 cm) - for rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm – for rib on sleeve.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - for strap.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS DUFFLE NO 520: 2 pieces for all sizes



Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST: K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 - diagram is worked in stocking st.

DECREASE TIP: Dec by K 2 sts tog.

INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Work the new sts in the pattern.


Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 144-156-168-184-200-220 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with light grey. On 1st row (= RS) work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2, 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm, dec 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts evenly in rib on next row from WS =132-144-156-168-184-204 sts. Now switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work next row (= from RS) as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram M.1 until 3 sts remain, finish with the first 2 sts in diagram M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue like this until piece measures 53-54-55-56-57-58 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; 28-31-34-36-39-44 sts (= front piece) in from each side (back piece = 76-82-88-96-106-116 sts). Now divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

= 76-82-88-96-106-116 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm. On next row, cast off the middle 16-16-16-20-24-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 sts on next row from neck = 28-31-34-36-39-44 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm.

= 28-31-34-36-39-44 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm, loosely cast off all sts.

Work as right front piece but reversed.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-40-40-44-48-52 sts with light grey on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. Work rib for 7 cm, then switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue with diagram M.1. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker - Read explanation above = 2 new sts on round. Repeat inc every 5-5-5-4½-4½-4 cm a total of 10 times in all sizes = 56-60-60-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 58-57-56-55-53-51 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), work back and forth - At the same time cast off for sleeve cap (beg on next row from RS) as follows: Cast off 6-6-6-7-8-8 sts at beg of the next 6 rows. Cast off the remaining 20-24-24-22-20-24 sts on next row from RS.

Sew shoulder seams from RS with stitches. Sew in sleeves in front loop of outermost sts.

Worked back and forth on needle. Beg mid back of neck, knit up from RS approx. 140-180 sts inside 1 edge st around the neck and along left front piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm with light grey. On next row (= WS) adjust no of sts to 146-150-158-166-174-178 sts (divisible by 4 + 2) while at the same time P the sts. Work rib on next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*. Continue with rib until band measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm. Insert a marker from RS after the first 34-34-38-38-42-42 sts on needle. Now inc 1 st in every K-section (seen from RS) over the 34-34-38-38-42-42 sts = 8-8-9-9-10-10 new sts in the neck. Repeat inc when band measures 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm = 162-166-176-184-194-198 sts. When band measures 12-12-12-13-13-13 cm, cast off all sts with K over K and P over P.

Work up along right front piece from bottom edge until mid back of neck. P 1 row from WS and adjust no of sts as on left front band. 1st row in rib is worked as follows from RS: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st mid back of neck. Work and inc in the neck as on left front band.

Sew bands tog mid back of neck inside 1 edge st.

Crochet a strap approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from bottom edge on right front band. Work with light grey on hook size 4.5 mm as follows: Insert hook through band approx. 1 cm from the edge and pull the thread through. Then work ch for approx. 6 cm, pull thread through last ch and fasten thread on the back.
Work another strap approx. 12 cm over the first strap the same way. Sew the buttons on to the left front band.


symbols = ight grey
symbols = dark pink mix
symbols = denim blue

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Jules wrote:

Nachdem ich am Nadelspiel nicht in Hin- und Rückreihen stricke, heißt das ich muss zum Abketten der Ärmel auf Rundnadeln wechseln?

03.03.2022 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Jules, wie Sie es am besten möchten, Sie können entweder in Hin und Rückreihen mit dem Nadelspiel oder mit der Rundnadel weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.03.2022 kl. 14:12

country flag Jules wrote:

Wie kettet man den Ärmel beidseitig am Anfang der Reihe ab? Sind das bei 8 M dann jeweils 4 rechts von der Markierung und 4 links? Am Nadelspiel stricke ich nur in Hinreihen, wie werden die M rechts von der Markierung richtig abgekettet?

02.03.2022 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Jules, Sie sollen jetzt 8 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 12 Reihen abketten: *Am Anfang der Hinreihe (nach der Markierung, 1. Reihe = Teilung) ketten Sie die ersten 8 Maschen ab, stricken Sie die Reihen bis zur Ende, wenden, am Anfang der Rückreihe ketten Sie die ersten 8 Maschen ab, stricken Sie die Reihen bis zur Ende*, von *-* stricken Sie insgesamt 6 Mal (= 6 Mal 8 Maschen werden beidseitig abgekettet). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.03.2022 kl. 10:17

country flag Jules wrote:

Wenn in der Blende in jeder Reihe rechts eine Masche aufgenommen wird, dann passt die Abfolge "1 Randm in Krausrippe, 1 re., * 2 li., 2 re. *, von *-* wiederholen" nicht mehr... ist es am besten die Masche direkt nach der Randmasche aufzunehmen oder gibt es eine bessere Stelle?

21.02.2022 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Jules, ja richtig, Bündchen ist nicht mehr 2 li, 2 re überall, die Maschen stricken Sie dann wie sie erscheinen, also immer 2 li, 2 r unten bis die Zunahmen und 2 li, 3 re für den Kragen (von der Vorderseite gesehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2022 kl. 09:20

country flag Jules wrote:

Was bedeutet ‘die Arbeit teilen’? Heißt das ich muss die Maschen des Vorderteils auf eine andere Nadel verschieben?

15.02.2022 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Jules, ja genau, entweder auf eine andere Nadel oder auf einen Faden (siehe Video und jetzt stricken Sie die Maschen für den Rückenteil in Hin- und Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.02.2022 kl. 11:11

country flag Sarah wrote:

Bei der linken Blende beginne ich das Bündchen mit Randm in Krausrippe, 1 re. im Nacken und wdh. das in jeder Reihe immer im Nacken? Das heißt die Reihe beginnt oder endet im Nacken immer mit 2 rechten Maschen? Und das gleiche bei der rechten Blende? Danke!

08.11.2015 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Ja genau, im Nacken treffen, wenn Sie beide Blenden gestrickt haben, jeweils 1 kraus-re-M aufeinander und daneben liegt 1 M glatt re. Wenn Sie die Blendenteile dann innerhalb 1 Rand-M zusammennähen, ergeben sich somit hinten 2 M re zwischen den je 2 M li, sodass das Rippenmuster dann wieder genau richtig ist.

12.11.2015 kl. 20:17

Kari Dahl wrote:

Jeg strikker oppskrift nr. 135-21. På kanten foran, som er tverr-ribbe, så står det at det skal økes 9 masker på en rad etter 6 cm. Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal øke 9 masker UTEN å bryte 2r/2v. Kari

05.05.2014 - 23:32

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hallo, wird M1 glatt rechts gestrickt?

20.01.2014 - 23:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sarah, ja es wird glatt re gestrickt.

21.01.2014 kl. 08:15

country flag Erica wrote:

Perfekt att jag hitta något som jag kan göra till make. Så denna ska jag minsann göra :) Ps: webbsidan säger varje gång att min webbsida har fel format men jag har inget w w w i min adress tyvärr det får ni allt fixa

08.04.2013 - 08:23

country flag Marja-Liisa Tuomi wrote:

Hei! Kysyisin, mitä tarkoittaa seuraavan kohdan alku eli yksi silmukka? Mikä sen tarkoitus on ja mihin se on tarkoitus virkata? NAPINLÄPISILMU: Virkkaa n. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm:n pituinen silmukka oikean etureunan alareunaan.

11.12.2012 - 13:28

DROPS Design answered:

Tämä on napinläpisilmu, eli nappi kiinnitetään tähän virkattuun silmukkaan.

11.12.2012 kl. 14:14

country flag Di wrote:

Salve, Sto lavorando questo maglione e avendo iniziato da poco le maniche, volevo chiedervi delucidazioni su questa parte della descrizione: "Allo stesso tempo intrecciare per il giro manica (...)". Non capisco cosa voglia dire "intrecciare per il giro manica". Sono una knitter alle prime armi e molte delle terminologie e delle tecniche sono ancora a me sconosciute. Vi ringrazio in anticipo, Di.

02.05.2012 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Scusa per la risposta in ritardo.. Il giro manica è l'arrotondamento della manica in alto, cioè, dove la manica viene attaccata alla giacca. Da una forma migliore alla manica.

18.05.2012 kl. 14:43

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