DROPS / 134 / 18

Fresh Beauty by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with shawl collar in "Eskimo". Sizes S-XXL

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-366
Yarn group E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-104-112-122 cm / 34"-37"-41"-44"-48"
Full length: 53-55-57-59-61 cm / 21"-21½"-22½"-23 1/4"-24"

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
Color no 05, petrol: 600-650-750-800-900 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 10 mm / N/15 – or size needed to get 6.5 dc in width x 6 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DC-ROW:
Turn piece with ch 3 = first dc, continue with 1 dc in every st and finish row with 1 dc in 3rd ch at beg of previous row.

SC-ROW:
Turn piece with ch 1 (NOTE: not counted as first sc) continue with 1 sc in every st and finish row with 1 sc in 1st sc at beg of previous row.

DECREASE TIP:
At beg of row: Replace no of sts to be dec with 1 sl st in every st.
At end of row: Turn piece when no of sts to be dec remain and continue working as before.

REVERSE CROCHET:
Reverse crochet = sc which is worked from RS but in the opposite direction, i.e. from left to right.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Ch 33-37-41-45-49 loosely with Eskimo and hook size 10 mm / N/15. 1st row (= RS): 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* = 24-27-30-33-36 dc on row, turn piece - Read DC-ROW above.
Continue to work 1 dc in every st. When piece measures 11-11-12-12-13 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8", inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in the first and last st. Repeat inc 1 more time when piece measures 22-23-24-24-25 cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4" = 28-31-34-37-40 dc.
When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15", dec for armholes in each side on every row as follows: Dec 2 dc 1-1-1-2-2 times - READ DECREASE TIP above, and 1 dc 0-1-2-1-2 times = 24-25-26-27-28 dc.
When piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'' (2 rows remain until finish measurements), work 2 dc-rows over the outermost 9-9-9-10-10 dc in each side = right/left shoulder, fasten off. I.e. do not work over the middle 6-7-8-7-8 dc (= neck). Piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61 cm / 21"-21½"-22½"-23 1/4"-24".


LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Ch 12-13-14-15-16 loosely.
1st row (= RS): 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in the next 8-9-10-11-12 ch = 10-11-12-13-14 dc, turn piece. On next row (= WS) inc for lapel towards mid front as follows: Inc 1 dc at beg of row by working 2 dc in the first st, continue with 1 dc in every st. Repeat inc of 1 dc like this at the beg of every row from WS a total of 12-13-13-14-14 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11-11-12-12-13 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8", and 22-23-24-24-25 cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4", inc in the side as on back piece.
When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15", dec for armhole in the side as on back piece. When all dec and inc are done, 22-23-23-24-24 dc remain.
When piece measures approx. 43-45-47-49-51 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20" (inc towards mid front should be finished), dec for neck on next row from RS as follows: Work until 10 dc remain on row, turn piece and work back. Dec 1 dc towards the neck on every row 3-4-4-4-4 times - READ DECREASE TIP above = 9-9-9-10-10 dc remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61 cm / 21"-21½"-22½"-23 1/4"-24", fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth. Ch 26-26-27-27-29 loosely.
1st row (= RS): 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in the last 1-1-2-2-0 ch = 19-19-20-20-21 dc, turn piece.
Continue to work 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures approx. 5 cm / 2'', dec 2 dc evenly on row by skipping 1 st from previous row. Repeat dec 1 more time when piece measures 10 cm / 4'' (= folded edge) = 15-15-16-16-17 dc.
When piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'', inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in the first and last st in each side, repeat inc every 12-10-10-7-7 cm / 4 3/4"-4"-4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4'' a total of 3-4-4-5-5 times = 21-23-24-26-27 dc.
When piece measures 56-57-57-54-54 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-21 1/4"-21 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), dec for sleeve cap in each side on every row as follows: Dec 2 dc 1 time, 1 dc 4-4-4-6-6 times, then 2 dc 1 time = 5-7-8-6-7 sts remain. Cut the yarn, piece measures approx. 66-67-67-67-67 cm / 26"-26½"-26½"-26½"-26½".

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet the shoulder tog as follows: Work 1 sc in 1st st on shoulder on back piece, ch 1, 1 sc in 1st st on shoulder on front piece, * ch 1, 1 sc in next st on shoulder on back piece, ch 1, 1 sc in next st on shoulder on front piece *, repeat from *-*.
Crochet in the sleeves and crochet the sleeve and side seams tog in one the same way.

COLLAR:
Work back and forth from outermost edge on collar. Ch 51-53-53-57-57 loosely. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and then work 1 sc in every ch = 50-52-52-56-56 sc. Then work 1 sc-row - See SC-ROW above.
Work next row as follows: Work 1 sc in the first 22-23-23-25-25 sc, work 2 sc in each of the next 6 sc, work 1 sc in the remaining 22-23-23-25-25 sc = 56-58-58-62-62 sc. Work another 2 sc-rows.
Then dec 1 sc in each side on every row a total of 15-16-16-18-18 times = 26 sts for all sizes. On the next 2 rows, dec 2 sc in each side = 18 sc remain for all sizes. Cut the yarn. Sew the 18 sc against neck edge on back piece, sew the sides against neck edges on front pieces.

EDGE:
Crochet the edge from RS, beg on bottom edge on right front piece as follows: Work sc up along right front piece, around the collar and down along left front piece. The edge should be somewhat tight and not wavy. On next row work reverse crochet - See REVERSE CROCHET above - up along left front piece, around the collar and down along right front piece, continue with reverse crochet along the entire bottom edge of jacket, cut the yarn. Fold up the bottom 10 cm / 4'' on sleeves, work from RS 1 round with reverse crochet around the sleeve edge, fasten off.
Close the jacket with a pin or brooch.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= folding edge

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 134-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (55)

Renée Van Zand 18.03.2019 - 18:06:

Graag zou ik willen weten hoeveel drops Paris katoen ik nodig heb om dit vest te maken.

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 17:10:

Dag Renée,

Je zou dan 2 draden Paris kunnen gebruiken. Het is afhankelijk van je maat hoeveel bollen je nodig hebt. Gebruik de garenvervanger om dit uit te rekenen. De link naar de garenvervanger vindt je onderaan bij de materialen bij ieder patroon.

Sarah Cleveland 04.07.2018 - 11:16:

Hello, I was wondering if this pattern could be done in a non-bulky yarn? Could I use a regular worsted weight (4)? I really don't have the money to get wool either, would acrylic yarn be ok? \r\nThanks for you time,\r\nSarah

DROPS Design 04.07.2018 kl. 12:08:

Dear Mrs Cleveland, this jacket has been written for a bulky yarn. We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store in USA for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

Marimar 18.10.2017 - 10:45:

Bonjour, je termine cette veste et je crains être juste en laine... pouvez vous me dire combien de laine ai je besoin pour faire la bordure ?...il me reste un peu moins d'une pelote. Merci

DROPS Design 18.10.2017 kl. 13:43:

Bonjour Marimar, si vous avez bien le même échantillon, vous devriez avoir suffisamment, toutefois, comme chacune crochète différemment, il est difficile de pouvoir vous répondre à coup sûr, dans la mesure où il faut 2 rangs autour de la veste + 1 en bas et 1 autour de chaque manche, il est possible qu'il vous en faudra plus, en fonction de votre tension et de la taille. Bonne continuation!

Marimar 06.09.2017 - 15:01:

Bonjour, Je souhaite faire cette veste et lorsque je fais l'échantillon avec de la drops eskimo et un crochet de 9 mm j'obtiens sur 7 brides et 6 rangs 9cmx14 cm.. Merci de me dire quoi faire .

DROPS Design 06.09.2017 kl. 15:20:

Bonjour Marimar, essayez de crochetez un peu plus souple en largeur pour obtenir les 10 cm et tirez un peu moins vos brides en hauteur lors des jetés pour avoir les 10 cm pour 6 rangs. Bon crochet!

Agnieszka 03.03.2016 - 07:27:

Dzień dobry. Pierwszy raz mam problem z Państwa wzorem, już na etapie robienia próbki. Przerabiając 6,5 sł x 6 rz. na wysokość (szydełko 10mm) nie ma możliwości, żeby wyszła mi próbka 10x10 cm. Aby wyszła odpowiednia szerokość muszę przerabiać dość luźno, natomiast 6 rzędów to u mnie wychodzi około 16 cm (1 rząd to prawie 3 cm wysokości). Co może być nie tak?

DROPS Design 03.03.2016 kl. 18:15:

Witam. Osobiście wykonałam próbkę i mi wychodzi na wysokość ok. 10-11 cm. A może nie wykonuje Pani słupków pojedyńczych tylko podwójne? Jeśli wszystko jest zgodnie z opisem, proszę spróbować wykonać próbkę na szydełku nr 9 lub 8. POWODZENIA!

Hoor 13.02.2016 - 02:10:

Dec 2 dc 1-1-1-2-2 times work 2 dc-rows over the outermost 9-9-9-10-10 dc in each side what does the 1-1-1-2-2 9-9-9-10-10 means ?? please help thank you

DROPS Design 15.02.2016 kl. 10:11:

Dear Mrs Hoor, each number refers to the size, ie 1 time in the 3 first sizes, 2 times in the 2 largest sizes, and 9 dc in the 3 first sizes and 10 dc in the 2 largest sizes. Happy crocheting!

Hoor 13.02.2016 - 02:08:

Hello I'm having trouble with the pattern .. in the BACK PIECE: Dec 2 dc 1-1-1-2-2 times

DROPS Design 15.02.2016 kl. 10:10:

Dear Mrs Hoor, in the first 3 sizes you will dec 2 dc 1 time, in the 2 largest sizes, you will dec 2 dc 2 times. Happy crocheting!

Kjersti 01.12.2015 - 17:01:

Jeg klarer bare ikke å få det til å stemme med målene og hvilken heklekrok jeg skal bruke. Med krok 10 får jeg 9 cm i bredden og 15 cm i høyden. Med krok 8 får jeg 9,5 i bredden og 14 cm i høyden. Med krok 9 får jeg 9 cm i bredden og 15 cm i høyden. Med krok 12 får jeg 10 cm i bredden og 16,5 cm i høyden. Hva skal jeg gjøre for å få det til å stemme?

DROPS Design 02.12.2015 kl. 11:06:

Hej Kjersti, Der er noget som ikke stemmer! Jeg kan se at du får samme bredde med nål 9 og 10. Men du burde få en smallere bredde på nål nr 8 da den er mindre... Jeg tror du skal bruge nål nr 10 og så sørger du for at bredden stemmer, samtidig som du følger målene i højden fra opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Mandy 21.10.2015 - 16:49:

Linker voorpand in spiegelbeeld haken, meerder ik dan aan het begin of eind van de toer, en aan de goede of verkeerde kant?

DROPS Design 21.10.2015 kl. 17:03:

Hoi Mandy. In het patroon moet je het RECHTER voorpand haken in spiegelbeeld? Maar ben je begonnen met links, dan was de eerste toer op de goede kant van zijkant naar middenvoor, en dan meerderen aan het begin van de toer op de verkeerde kant. Bij rechts haak je op de goede kant van middenvoor richting de zijkant, dus hier meerder je voor revers aan het eind van de toer op de verkeerde kant.

Cordonnier 12.03.2015 - 11:10:

Bonjour, Je voulais savoir si votre site propose des vidéos (tutoriels) pour réaliser des chaussettes simple,car je suis débutante. Merci pour réponse. Anita.

DROPS Design 12.03.2015 kl. 13:53:

Bonjour Mme Cordonnier, vous trouverez différentes vidéos relatives à chaque modèle sous l'onglet "vidéos" à droite de la photo de chacune des page des explications. Retrouvez également toutes nos vidéos ici, sur l'index de la vidéothèque. Bon tricot!

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