DROPS / 124 / 8

Marshmallow Pouf by DROPS Design

DROPS cushion/foot stool in garter st in 4 strands ”Snow” or 2 strands ”Polaris”.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-298
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Size: Small - Large
Circumference:
approx 150 - 185 cm / 59" - 72¾" (includes filling)
Diameter: 50 - 60 cm / 19¾" - 23½"
Height: 28 - 40 cm / 11" - 15¾"

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
800-1600 g color no 21, blue/violet
or use:
800-1600 g color no 26, magenta

Or use:
DROPS Polaris from Garnstudio
1200 - 2300 g select color from Polaris color chart

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 15 mm / US 19 - or size needed to get 5 sts x 16 rows in garter st with 4 strands Snow (or 2 strands Polaris) = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

1-2 down duvets (should be down as this is easier to shape. Medium quality is fine, we have used summer down duvets weighing approx 1400 g).

1 jersey sheet in the same color as cushion/foot stool (to protect and cover up the duvet).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

100% Wool
from 5.80 $ /100g
DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 5.80 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Polaris mix DROPS Polaris mix 6.80 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

MEASUREMENT TIP: Place piece over the back of a chair to make it hang loose. Measure in the middle of piece.

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CUSHION/FOOT STOOL:
Worked from side to side. Cast on 24-30 sts on needle size 15 mm / US 19 with 4 strands Snow. Work 2 rows GARTER ST – see above! Continue in garter st with turns as follows to avoid a hole at the top and at the bottom: * Work row until 4 sts remain, turn piece, tighten first st, work row until 4 sts remain, turn piece, tighten first st, work row until 8 sts remain, turn piece, tighten thread, work row until 8 sts remain, turn piece, tighten first st, work return row on 16-22 sts. Work 1 row on all sts *. Repeat from *-*. When piece measures approx 120 -130 cm / 47'' - 51" - read MEASUREMENT TIP – bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY:
Pull a double thread through outer loops of outermost sts along one side of piece, tighten tog carefully and fasten thread (= the bottom). Repeat at the top but do not tighten thread yet. Sew cast on row and bind off row tog from the bottom and up along the side.
Fill the cushion/foot stool as follows (it may require 2 people!): Place the 2 duvets on top of each other and pull the sheet over. Place the duvet in the cushion/foot stool – make sure to have the sheet on the outside. Tighten the top tog and fasten thread.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 124-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (124)

Helen 09.11.2020 - 12:51:

Skall jag använda 4 nystan när jag ska sticka med 4 trådar

Helen 06.11.2020 - 15:34:

Vad menas med 4 trådar

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 12:34:

Hei Helen. Den menes at det skal strikkes med 4 tråder = blir en tykk tråd. God Fornøyelse!

Heliana 18.04.2020 - 00:32:

Boa noite! Eu gostaria de reproduzir o modelo acima em crochê, qual linha e os pontos você pode me indicar?🌹

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 12:27:

Qualquer uma linha DROPS com a mesma espessura. Pode sempre pedir conselho em uma loja DROPS aqui: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?id=28&cid=28 .Para pufs em croché, veja modelos aqui: ttps://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=search&w=puf&mt=2&c=0&k=0&y=0&yg=0&lang=pt Bom Croché!

Edna Jerusa Maia 12.04.2020 - 05:57:

Por favor queria saber onde encontrar esse fio aqui em São Paulo - Brasil. Obrigada

DROPS Design 12.04.2020 kl. 17:42:

Querida Edna. Aqui pode encontrar uma lista de retalhistas DROPS activos: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=28. Não há lojas no Brasil.

Brun 23.10.2019 - 21:26:

C'é un tutorial per eseguire questo modello? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 06:43:

Buongiorno Brun, oltre alla spiegazioni riportate, scorrendo la pagina può travare tutti i video delle tecniche usate nel modello e se dovesse aver bisogno di aiuto può riscriverci compilando l'apposito modulo. Buon lavoro!

Sabrina 16.01.2019 - 16:14:

Danke für Ihre Antwort! Leider verstehe ich es immer noch nicht ganz. Ist das nun so korrekt? Anschlagen, dann 2 Reihen mit 24 Maschen stricken. *Dann 20 M stricken, wenden, 20 M zurück stricken, 16 M stricken, wenden, 16 M zurück stricken, 8 M stricken, wenden, 8 M zurück stricken, 16 M stricken, wenden, 16 M zurück stricken, 24 M stricken, wenden, 24 M zurück stricken*. Dann immer * bis * wiederholen. Fehlen da nicht auf dem Rückweg zwischen 16 und 24 M 2 Reihen mit 20 M?

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Sabrina, oops die im vorrigen Antwort beschriebenen verkürzten Reihen stimmen nicht, so werden Sie stricken: 2 M über alle Maschen, dann *1 Reihe 20 M stricken (4 M übrig), wenden, 1 Reihe über 16 M stricken (= 4 M übrig), , wenden, 1 Reihe über 12 M (8 M übrig), wenden, 1 Reihe über 8 M (8 M übrig), wenden, 1 Reihe über 16 M (= bis zur Ende der Reihe), wenden, 1 Reihe über die 24 M, wenden*, von *bis* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabrina 15.01.2019 - 23:15:

Hallo! Leider verstehe ich einiges nicht. 24 Maschen = Pouf 50cm Durchmesser? 30 Maschen = 60cm D? Ich schlage 24 M für den 50cm Pouf an und stricke dann 2 Reihen rechts alle 24 M? Dann stricke ich nur 20 M, drehe und stricke wieder 20 M? Dann nur 16 M hin und zurück? Und jetzt 2 Reihen wieder alle 24 Maschen? Stimmt das so? Und dann wieder 2 R mit 4 M weniger, 2 R mit 8 M weniger und wieder 2 R alle 24 M? Korrekt?

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:38:

Liebe Sabrina, wenn Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt, sollte auch die Durchmesser beim Pouf stimmen. Die verkürzten Reihen werden so gestrickt (nach 2 Reihen über alle Maschen): *20 M stricken, wenden 20 M stricken, 16 M stricken, wenden, 16 M stricken, wenden, 8 M stricken, wenden, 8 M stricken, wenden, 16 M stricken, wenden, 24 M stricken*, von *bis * wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Teresa Muto 10.09.2018 - 16:09:

Con quale altro filato potrei realizzarlo?grazie

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 17:25:

Buongiorno, questo modello è gia realizzato con un filato molto spesso, DROPS Eskimo, usato a 4 fili. In alternativa viene proposto DROPS Polaris. Non è consigliabile usare filati più sottili! Buon lavoro!

John 25.05.2018 - 18:07:

Hei. Eg vil gjerne strikke denne puffen i Andes. Når eg går inn på garnkalkulatoren får eg opp at den kan strikkes kun med 1 tråd. Men i oppskriften står det at det skal strikkes med 4 i eskimo eller 2 i polaris. Så kva er best å gjere her? Og blir den ikkje veldig tykk vis eg skal strikke med meir enn ein tråd i Andes?

DROPS Design 30.05.2018 kl. 13:40:

Hei John. Andes og Eskimo tilhørere begge garngruppe E så du kan helt fint bruke Andes isteden. Du strikker da med 4 tråder Andes. Polaris som er et tykkere garn strikkes kun med 2 tråder for å få samme tykkelse som 4 tråder av Andes eller Eskimo. Det blir ganske tykt, som du sier, men det er meningen. Her er en link til hvordan å regne ut garnforbruk ved bytte av garn. God fornøyelse. Kan jeg bruke et annet garn enn hva som er angitt i oppskriften

Sandrine 26.03.2018 - 15:34:

Bonjour un grand grand merci pour ces modèles, les explication très claires et le lien vers les laines polaris vraiment superbes ! j'ai réalisé un pouf grand format, en laine grise. j'ai apporté une modif pour faire les coté en jersey, ça rend très bien aussi. je vais sûrement en faire un autre. sandrine

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