DROPS / 120 / 38

Summer Sorbet by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat and top with stripes and lace borders in ”Safran”. Size S - XXXL.

  • Summer Sorbet / DROPS 120-38 - Crochet DROPS hat and top with stripes and lace borders in ”Safran”. Size S - XXXL.
  • Summer Sorbet / DROPS 120-38 - Crochet DROPS hat and top with stripes and lace borders in ”Safran”. Size S - XXXL.
  • Summer Sorbet / DROPS 120-38 - Crochet DROPS hat and top with stripes and lace borders in ”Safran”. Size S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no E-150+E-153
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Hat
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g color no 13, raspberry
50 g color no 18, off-white
50 g color no 01, light pink
50 g color no 12, peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 23 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
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Top
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-94-104-118-128 cm / 31½"-33 7/8"-37"-41"-46½"-50 3/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
color no 13, raspberry: 150-150-150-200-200-200 g
color no 18, off-white: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g
color no 01, light pink: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g
color no 12, peach: 100-100-100-150-150-150 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 23 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT

STRIPES: Crochet stripes as follows:
* 1 round off-white, 2 rounds peach, 2 rounds light pink, 2 rounds raspberry, 1 round off-white *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN: See diagram M.2 and M.3. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

CROCHET TIP: Beg each sc round with 1 ch. Beg each dc round with 3 ch. These sts are additional and not included in number of sts. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch/ch from beg of round.
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HAT:
Ch 5 on hook size 3 mm / C with off-white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Round 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring – see CROCHET TIP!
Now continue in STRIPES - see above.
Round 2: Crochet 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Round 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc * repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
Round 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
Round 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.

Now continue in M.2 and stripes.
AT THE SAME TIME on Row 1 in diagram inc 30 dc evenly (i.e. 2 dc in each sc) = 60 dc - see INCREASING TIP! On Row 4 inc 16 dc evenly = 76 dc. Repeat this inc on Row 6 = 92 dc. On Row 8 inc 8 dc evenly = 96 dc. Crochet Row 9. Piece now measures approx 10 cm / 4'' from the middle and you have worked 1 vertical repeat of M.2.
Now crochet M.2 again but without inc, AT THE SAME TIME continue in stripes as before.
After 2 vertical repeats of M.2 piece measures approx 17 cm / 6 3/4'' from the middle. Work 1 more repeat of M.2 and continue in stripes as before, AT THE SAME TIME on Row 1 in diagram inc 32 dc evenly = 128 dc. Inc 24 dc on Row 4 = 152 dc. Crochet Row 5 and Row 6, AT THE SAME TIME on Row 6 inc 1 dc at the end of round = 153 dc. Now crochet a lace border.

LACE BORDER:
Crochet with raspberry and hook size 3 mm / C as follows: M.3 (beg on row marked with 1 in diagram) - see CROCHET TIP - round the whole hat (= 9 repeats). After M.3 cut and fasten thread.
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TOP

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.3.

STRIPES: Crochet stripes as follows:
* 1 row off-white, 2 rows peach, 2 rows light pink, 2 rows raspberry, 1 row off-white *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASING TIP: Make all inc on rows/rounds in diagram with only dc (= Row/Round 1, 4, 6 or 8). Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

CROCHET TIP: Replace first dc on rounds with dc with 3 ch and first sc on rounds with sc with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch/ch from beg of round.

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The top is crochet from top down. Beg mid front.

YOKE:
Ch 140-151-161-172-183-193 with hook size 3 mm / C and off-white.
Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then 1 dc in next ch and now continue as follows: * skip 1 ch, crochet 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with skip 1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 2-1-3-2-1-3 ch = 103-111-119-127-135-143 dc. Turn piece.
Continue as follows: M.1A, M.1B repeated across the row until 3 sts remain, crochet these in M.1C. AT THE SAME TIME beg crochet STRIPES - see above.
AT THE SAME TIME on Row 1 in diagram inc 32 dc evenly - see INCREASING TIP = 135-143-151-159-167-175 dc.
Repeat the inc on Row 4 = 167-175-183-191-199-207 dc, on Row 6 = 199-207-215-223-231-239 dc and on Row 8 = 231-239-247-255-263-271 dc.
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on Row 10 inc 24-32-32-32-32-32 dc evenly = 255-271-279-287-295-303 dc.
SIZE S + M:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes until after Row 13-14 in diagram. Cut the thread.
SIZE L:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on Row 13 inc 16 dc evenly = 295 dc. After Row 16, cut the thread.
SIZE XL + XXL:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on Row 13 inc 24-32 dc evenly = 311-327 dc, and on Row 15 inc 16-24 dc evenly = 327-351 dc. After Row 17-18, cut the thread. SIZE XXXL:
Continue in M.1 and Stripes. AT THE SAME TIME on Row 13 inc 32 dc evenly = 335 dc, on Row 15 inc 32 dc evenly = 367 dc, and on Row 17 inc 24 dc evenly = 391 dc. After Row 19, cut the thread.

BODY PIECE:
Split should be mid front. Now continue in the round. Insert a marker and measure piece from here.
Beg after 89-94-103-113-121-135 dc from split mid front (i.e. beg round by crochet on back piece). Continue with Stripes as before and crochet M.2 on the next 77-83-89-101-109-121 dc, ch 16-18-20-20-28-28, skip 52-54-60-64-68-76 dc, continue with M.2 on the next 37-40-43-49-53-59 dc, ch 1 (= mid in split at front), continue with M.2 on the next 37-40-43-49-53-59 dc, ch 16-18-20-20-28-28, skip 52-54-60-64-68-76 dc and then crochet 1 sl st in the first st on round.
There are now 184-200-216-240-272-296 sts in total on round. See CROCHET TIP!
Continue with M.2 and Stripes in the round on all sts until piece measures approx 15 cm / 6'' from marker (adjust so that next round in M.2 is a round with only dc). Now inc 8 dc evenly - see INCREASING TIP! – and repeat the inc on approx every 6 cm / 2 3/8'' a total of 4 times = 216-232-248-272-304-328 sts. When all inc are complete piece measures approx 33 cm / 13'' from marker. Continue with M.2 and Stripes until you have complete stripe pattern. Now continue with M.2 as follows: 1 round off-white, 1 round peach, 1 round light pink. Crochet 1 round with dc and raspberry, AT THE SAME TIME inc 5-6-7-0-2-12 dc evenly = 221-238-255-272-306-340 dc.

LACE BORDER:
Continue in raspberry. Crochet M.3 (= 13-14-15-16-18-20 repeats).NOTE! Beg on row marked with 1 in diagram. See CROCHET TIP! After M.3 cut and fasten thread.

LACE BORDER ROUND YOKE:
Beg after 89-94-103-113-121-135 sts from split mid front (i.e. where you began crochet in the round) with raspberry. Crochet 1 sc in each dc round the last row on yoke = 255-271-295-327-351-391 sc.
Continue in M.3, beg on row marked with 1 in diagram, and AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 51-52-62-47-57-51 sc evenly = 306-323-357-374-408-442 sc. AT THE SAME TIME crochet stripes as follows: round 1 = off-white, round 2 = peach, round 3 = light pink, round 4 = raspberry and round 5 = off-white. After M.3 cut and fasten thread.

TIE RIBBON AND NECKLINE:
Ch 67-71-75-79-83-87 with hook size 3 mm / C with off-white. Turn piece, crochet 1 sc in each of the first 3 ch, * skip 1 ch, crochet 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* to the end of ch-row.
Now work 1 sc in the top left hand corner of split mid front and continue down along split and up to the other corner as follows: * ch 2, skip approx 0.5-1 cm / 1/4"-3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-*. Work 1 sc at the top of corner and now crochet 67-71-75-79-83-87 ch. Turn piece, * crochet 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch and 1 sl st in sc in corner. Now crochet round neck as follows * ch 2, skip approx 0.5-1 cm / 1/4"-3/8'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round. Cut the thread and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.10.2014
under HAT (three numbers have been changed):
Now continue in M.2 and stripes.
AT THE SAME TIME on Row 1 in diagram inc 30 dc evenly (i.e. 2 dc in each sc) = 60 dc - see INCREASING TIP! On Row 4 inc 16 dc evenly = 76 dc. Repeat this inc on Row 6 = 92 dc. On Row 8 inc 8 dc evenly = 96 dc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dc
symbols = ch
symbols = dc-group: 3 dc in the same dc
symbols = sc
symbols = Crochet 1 dc, but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), then crochet 1 dc in the same dc, but wait with the last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), crochet 1 dc in the same dc and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook.
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Anne 05.08.2020 - 11:09:

Jeg vil gerne have slidsen i ryggen i stedet for på brystet. Kan jeg bare vende bærestykket om inden jeg sætter sammen med for- og bagstykke? Mvh.

user icon DROPS Design 05.08.2020 kl. 13:23:

Hej Anne, ja det går fint :)

country flag Martine Orivel 25.02.2020 - 12:38:

Bonjour j'ai commencé le chapeau et je suis bloquée au rg 5. Au rg 4 j'ai fait les 16 augmentations en crochetant 3 brides individuelles sur le groupe de 3 brides du rg précédent puis 2 brides sur la maille en l'air. A présent je ne sais pas comment continuer. Est-ce que je dois faire 2 m en l'air entre les 2 groupes de brides ? Par avance merci pour votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2020 kl. 13:25:

Bonjour Mme Orivel, quand on augmente au 4ème rang, on augmente sur un rang de brides = vous avez donc 76 brides à la fin de ce rang. Au rang 5, crochetez comme indiqué dans le diagramme, soit: 3 brides écoulées ensemble (= dernier symbole) dans la 1ère bride, *1 ml, sautez 1 bride, 3 brides écoulées ensemble dans la bride suivante*, répétez de *-* tout le tour. Au 6ème rang, vous crochetez 1 bride dans chacune des 3 b écoulées ensemble (= 1 x 3 b écoulées ensemble = 1 bride) et 1 b dans la maille en l'air, en même temps, répartissez 16 augmentations = 92 brides. Bon crochet!

country flag Anna 24.08.2017 - 11:37:

Der Hut ist ein wenig labberig. Wie kann ich ihn steifer machen? Vielen Dank für Ideen in Voraus

user icon DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 13:01:

Liebe Anna, Sie können den Hut leicht steifen - Ihr DROPS Laden wird weitere Tipps für Sie haben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Janet 23.06.2017 - 10:03:

I still do not understand as I have 135 stitches plus the turning chain at the end of row 1. Row 2 is a recurring pattern of only 2 stitches which is an even number, so 134 stitches in row 2 will use 134 stitches from row 1 and not 135. The diagrams M1 - M3 show an even number of stitches being used in row 2 as well. I just do not see how to achieve an odd number of stitches in row 2.

user icon DROPS Design 23.06.2017 kl. 11:11:

Dear Janet, work over 103 tr: M1A (= 4 sts = 3 ch + 3 tr), then repeat M.1B (= 8 sts x 12 = 96 tr) and finish with M1C (= 3 sts = 3 tr) = 4+128+3= 103 + inc 32 tr evenly = 135 tr. On row 2, work M1C (over 3 tr), then repeat M.1B a total of 16 times (over 8 sts x 16= 128), and finish with M1A (over 4 sts) = you worked over 3+128+4= 135 tr. Happy crocheting!

country flag Janet 22.06.2017 - 13:10:

I am still having problems with row 2 of the yoke. I definitely have 135 stitches. The treble stitch is landing on the even treble of the row below (2,4,6,8 etc), so the 128th stitch is a treble to be followed by a chain. This means that I can fit in only 3 chains and 3 trebles with the turning chain, from the row below, remaining and only 134 stitches.

user icon DROPS Design 22.06.2017 kl. 16:36:

Dear Janet, remember CROCHET TIP at the beg of the pattern ie from beg, the 3 ch to turn with are additional sts. Happy crocheting!

country flag Janet 21.06.2017 - 20:48:

Many thanks for yur speedy answer to my previous question. I am now having problems with the number of stitches, which I am hoping you can help me with. At the end of the first row I increased by 32 stitches, ending with 135. At the end of row 2 I only have 134. When I end row 2, I end on the first treble of the first row, not the turning chain. Should I crochet a treble in the turning chain as well and if so, what happens to the start of row 3?

user icon DROPS Design 22.06.2017 kl. 08:26:

Dear Janet, make sure there are 135 sts (+ 3 ch to turn with) on row 1, then start row 2 with ch 3, then repeat M2 a total of 16 times in width (= over the first 128 sts) then finish with the first 7 sts in M2 (last st = 1 tr in last tr) = 135 tr. Happy crocheting!

country flag Janet 18.06.2017 - 13:14:

At the beginning of the pattern for the top the instructions say to chain 140 using off-white yarn and then it says to turn the piece. Does this mean that the trebles should be worked in the back of the chain stitches or should I continue as is usual when starting a piece of crochet and treble back along the chain?

user icon DROPS Design 18.06.2017 kl. 18:04:

Dear Janet, you should work az usual, when starting a piece of crochet, and crochet back along the chain, according to the description. I hope this helps. Happy corcheting!

Katie 21.01.2017 - 03:19:

Then should the slip stitch to join be in the ch-3 or the dc?

user icon DROPS Design 23.01.2017 kl. 09:26:

Dear Katie, at the end of round, sl st in the 3rd ch from beg of round, see also "CROCHET TIP". Happy crocheting!

Katie 20.01.2017 - 16:21:

What is the meaning of the crochet tip: Replace first dc on rounds with dc with 3 ch and first sc on rounds with sc with 1 ch. ?

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2017 kl. 16:40:

Dear Katie, the first ch (sc rows) and the first 3 ch (dc rows) are not replacing the first st, work then 1st sc/dc in 1st st. Happy crocheting!

Katie 17.01.2017 - 21:57:

How much ease is this supposed to have?

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2017 kl. 09:39:

Dear Katie, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements for each size in cm taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more here. Happy crocheting!

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