DROPS / 118 / 28

Lady of the Cliffs by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with stripes in ”Muskat”. SIZE S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no R-569
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-96-106-120-132 cm /31½"-35½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
color no 08, off-white: 500-500-600-650-700-750 g
color no 09, light brown: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g
color no 24, medium gray: 50-50-100-100-100-100 g
color no 23, beige: 100 g for all sizes
color no 61, light beige: 50 g for all sizes

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS COCONUT BUTTON no 515: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1.

CROCHET INFO: Replace first sc on each row with sc with ch 1 and replace first dc on each row with dc with ch 3. Finish each row with sc with 1 sc in the last ch from beg of previous row and finish each row with dc with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Crochet 2 dc tog as follows: Crochet 1 dc, but stop when there are 2 sts on hook, crochet next dc and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Dec as follows at beg of row: replace 1 dc with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when number of dc to be dec remain and work return row.

STRIPES: Work stripes as follows:
*1 repeat of M.1 with light brown
1 repeat of M.1 with beige
1 repeat of M.1 with medium gray
1 repeat of M.1 with light beige
1 repeat of M.1 with beige
1 repeat of M.1 with light brown
1 repeat of M.1 with medium gray *,
repeat from *-*.
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JACKET:
Piece crochet back and forth from mid front. See CROCHET INFO!
Ch 373-413-443-483-543-593 (includes 3 ch to turn with) with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with off-white.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch *, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2 ch = 297-329-353-385-433-473 dc.
Crochet 2 rows with 1 dc in each dc, then crochet 2 dc tog across the row – see DECREASING TIP-1 = 149-165-177-193-217-237 dc. Turn piece. Insert a marker 37-41-44-48-54-59 sts in from each side (back piece = 75-83-89-97-109-119 dc). Continue with 1 dc in each dc. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' dec 1 dc each side of both markers (4 dec per row), and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 7 times - see DECREASING TIP-1 = 121-137-149-165-189-209 dc. When piece measures 26 cm / 10 1/4'' inc 1 dc each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-2''-2'' a total of 4 times, inc by working 2 dc in 1 dc = 137-153-165-181-205-225 dc. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼'' continue in M.1 and stripes – See STRIPES! When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾'' (finish after first row in M.1) divide piece as follows:

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Crochet second row in M.1 (= 1 sc in each sc) on the first 31-35-38-42-48-53 sc on row, turn and continue in M.1. Now dec for armhole each side at the end of every row – see DECREASING TIP-2: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-6 times and 1 st 0-2-2-3-4-6 times = 31-31-32-33-34-35 dc. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' continue on only 18 sts at the side, do not crochet on the 13-13-14-15-16-17 sts towards mid front. Cut and fasten thread when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Crochet on the last 31-34-38-42-48-53 sc on row, turn and continue as described for right front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Crochet sc on the middle 63-71-77-85-97-107 sc on back piece only. Dec for armhole each side as described for front piece = 63-63-65-67-69-71 dc. When piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' (2 rows of pattern remain) crochet 1 row on only 18 sts each side (do not crochet on the middle 26-26-28-30-32-34 sts = neckline). Crochet 1 more row on the 18 sts and cut the thread. Piece measures approx 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''.

SLEEVE:
Crochet sleeve back and forth. Ch 57-59-62-64-67-69 (includes 3 ch to turn with) with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and off-white. Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch *, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 1-3-1-3-1-3 ch = 44-46-48-50-52-54 dc. Turn piece. Crochet 1 dc in each dc. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' inc each side by working 1 extra dc in the last but one dc each side on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 8-9-10-12-13-14 times = 60-64-68-74-78-82 dc. When piece measures 35-35-34-34-32-31 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-12½"-12 1/4" - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- dec for sleeve cap each side on every row – see DECREASING TIP-2: 4 dc 1 time, 2 dc 3 times, 1 dc 0-0-1-2-4-6 times, then 2 dc each side until piece measures approx 41-42-42-43-43-44 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-16½''-17''-17''-17¼'', dec 4 dc each side 1 time, crochet 1 row on all sts, cut and fasten thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with neat sts. Set in sleeves. Sew under arm seams.

FRONT BAND:
Crochet with light brown up along right front piece as follows: *1 sc, ch 3, skip approx 1.5-2 cm / ½"-3/4" *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sc. Turn piece. Work next row as follows: 1 sc in each sc and 3 sc in each ch-loop = approx 85-100 sc. Crochet 1 sc in each sc until front band measures 2 cm / 3/4''. Now make 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes evenly distributed, place the top one 1 cm / 3/8'' from neckline and the bottom one approx 15 cm / 6'' from bottom edge. 1 buttonhole = replace 1 sc with ch 1, on return row work 1 sc in ch. Continue with 1 sc in each sc until front band measures 4 cm / 1½'', cut and fasten thread.
Repeat on left front piece, but without buttonholes.
Finally crochet 1 row with sc round neck, incl front bands, with light brown.

POCKET:
Ch 23 (includes 3 ch to turn with) with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and off-white. Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* , skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2 ch = 17 dc. Crochet 1 dc in each dc until pocket measures 10 cm / 4'', then crochet 1 sc in each dc and then 1 sc in each sc as follows: 1 row with light brown, 1 row with beige, 1 row with medium gray, 1 row with light beige, 1 row with light brown. Cut and fasten threads. Make 2 pockets. Sew pockets to front pieces, approx 8 cm / 3 1/8'' from bottom edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= dc
= ch
= sc

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 118-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (70)

Anne 21.04.2020 - 14:16:

Hej, förstår inte avmaskningen för ärmarna. Ska det göras sm både på varv med fasta maskor och stolpar? Mvh Anne

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 11:35:

Hej Anne, menar du avmaskning för ärmhål, se AVMTIPS: Maska av så här i början på v: Ersätt 1 st med 1 sm. Maska av så här i slutet på v: Vänd arb när det återstår det antal st som ska avm och virka tillbaka. Lycka till :)

Ria Agterberg 12.02.2020 - 08:03:

Bedankt voor al die geweldige patronen. Alleen nogmaals mijn tip om de mensen te leren de 1e toer de steken hakend op te zetten. Volgens het patroon moet ik met 443 lossen beginnen en houd daar in de eerste toer stokjes 353 stokjes van over. Het was voor mij een verademing dat je door de 1e toer de stokjes hakend op te zetten het veel prettiger was met het tellen van de steken. En zeker zo goed dat op deze manier de eerste toer niet te strak of te los is, maar je een goed begin hebt.

Josie 29.07.2019 - 10:53:

Bonjour le modele 118-28,comment puis je faire pour croiser les différents fils de couleur surtout dans les diminutions des emmanchures ,j'ai essayé de couper et faire des noeuds, mais ce n'était pas joli ? . Merci d'avance.bonne journée. Josie

DROPS Design 29.07.2019 kl. 17:01:

Bonjour Josie! Regardez le video ICI. Bon crochet!

Hery 24.07.2019 - 11:00:

Rerebonjour Désolée, vous m'avez dit :je repond tout de suite, mais y a comme un problème, à moins que vous aussi vous souffriez de la canicule. Ce n est pas grave, j'ai commencé les rayures, je crois avoir compris. Bon courage et bonne journée. Josie hery

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 11:33:

Bonjour Mme Hery, j'ai repondu a votre email le 23.07.2019 kl. 17:43. Voila la reponse: "Bonjour! Vous realisez les rayures sur toute la longueur de la veste. Bon crochet!". Bon crochet!

Hery 23.07.2019 - 16:24:

Rebonjour Je réalise la veste 118-28,je n'ai pas de réponses, est ce que vous avez bien reçu ma question, svp ?

DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 17:42:

Bonjour Mme Hery! Je reponds tout de suite.

Hery 23.07.2019 - 15:50:

Bonjour Je realise lady of the cliffs en muskat,lorsque j'arrive aux premières rayures, c'est bien sur toute la longueur à 37 cms de ht que je les fais ? Merci A bientôt.

DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 17:43:

Bonjour! Vous realisez les rayures sur toute la longueur de la veste. Bon crochet!

Josie 12.06.2019 - 07:12:

Bonjour Mon échantillon était conforme au vôtre, mais après 26 cor,mon échantillon faisait 12 B ×8 Rgs.que dois-je faire,SVP?si je prends un crochet plus petit,c'est du carton.merci

DROPS Design 12.06.2019 kl. 07:37:

Bonjour Josie, essayez de bien conserver la même tension pour le gilet que celle que vous aviez pour votre échantillon, et essayez de "tirer" les brides un peu moins en hauteur pour également conserver la bonne tension. N'hésitez pas à essayer avec un crochet plus petit si besoin. Bon crochet!

Josie 07.06.2019 - 17:27:

Rebonjour Je voulais vous faire savoir que j'ai appris toute seule le crochet, je suis patiente et tenace, même si je dois faire et recommencer, mais j'y arrive.j'ai été opérée des ligaments à l'épaule et je ne peux plus tricoter. Je voulais surtout vous remercier pour votre patience et vos explications claires quand on a besoin d'un petit coup de pouce. Passez un bon week rend et encore merci. Josie

Josie 07.06.2019 - 15:30:

Rebonjour J'ai enfin mes 217 B,mais il est dit dans les explications 2 rangs,c'est pour cela que je n'y arrivait pas.pouvez vous vérifier s'il n'y a pas d'erreurs et qu'il s'agit d'un rang et non deux. Merci beaucoup. J'attends votre réponse. Josie

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 16:06:

Bonjour Josie, il n'y a pas d'erreurs: on crochète d'abord 2 rangs de brides (= 1 bride dans chaque bride) soit 2 rangs sur 433 brides, puis on diminue au rang suivant = 217 brides. Bon crochet!

Josie 07.06.2019 - 11:58:

Bonjour Je réalise la veste 118-28 en "Muskat"taille XXL. Au départ,je commence bien avec mes 543 B,ensuite je suis bien à 433 B,er cela ne va pas pour les deux rangs de B (1Bdans chaque B) puis 2 B fermées tout le rang. Je n'ai pas 217 B mais 193 B.Pouvez vous m'aider s'il vous plait. Merci et félicitations pour vos modèles, tutoriels.Je viens de finir un châle de ma composition en Fabel car j'adore vos laines et cotons.MERCI MERCI MERCI Josie

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 12:58:

Bonjour Josie, au rang de diminutions, on forme le volant du bas de la veste ainsi: on crochète toutes les brides du rang ensemble 2 par 2 (cf vidéo), vous aviez 433 brides, vous divisez le nombre par 2 = 216 + 3 ml au début du rang pour remplacer la 1ère bride = on a bien 217 brides. Bon crochet!

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