DROPS / 110 / 11

Friar's Robe by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho with large collar/hood in Vienna or Melody and crochet borders in Silke Alpaca or Nepal. Size S - XXXL.

Size: S/M - M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Vienna
350-400-450-500 g colour no 43, light brown
and use: DROPS Silke Alpaca
100 g for all sizes colour no 1340, light beige

Or use: DROPS Melody
250-300-350-350 g colour no 15, beige
and use: DROPS Nepal
100 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS circular needle size 9 mm (40 and 80 cm) – or size needed to get 10 sts x 12 rows in stocking st with Vienna or Melody = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm – for crochet border.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Vienna DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
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DROPS Silke Alpaca DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
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DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Decreasing tip: Dec on both sides of all Marking Threads (MT). Beg 3 sts before MT. Dec as follows before MT: K2 tog, K1.
Dec as follows after MT: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

Poncho: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 180-192-204-216 sts on circular needle size 9 mm with Vienna or Melody. Work 6 rounds garter st – see above. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) after 15-16-17-18 sts, and a further 5 MT with 30-32-34-36 sts between each (= 6 MT). Continue in stocking st. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10-12-13-14 cm dec 1 st on both sides of each MT (= 12 dec) – see Decreasing tip – on every 9-9-10-11 cm a total of 5 times = 120-132-144-156 sts. At the same time when piece measures 19-21-25-29 cm divide the piece to make openings for armholes as follows:
Slip sts from beg of round to MT-1 on a stitch holder, leave sts between MT-1 and MT-3 on needle and slip remaining sts on the stitch holder. Work remaining sts on needle back and forth in stocking st with 1 garter st each side. Remember to continue dec! When piece measures 18-19-20-21 cm from dividing the piece slip sts from needle on a new stitch holder. Slip sts from the first stitch holder back on needle and work stocking st back and forth on needle with 1 garter st each side. Remember to continue dec! When piece measures 18-19-20-21 cm from dividing the piece slip all sts back on the same needle. Continue in stocking st in the round at the same time continue dec. When piece measures 48-50-55-60 cm (all dec are now complete = 120-132-144-156 sts on round) dec 4 sts evenly = 116-128-140-152 sts. Continue until piece measures 61-65-71-77 cm and dec 18-20-20-22 sts evenly on next round = 98-108-120-130 sts. K 1 round. On next round beg dec 12-14-16-18 sts evenly on round on every 3 cm a total of 4 times = 50-52-56-58 sts. Insert 1 MT and now measure piece from here.
Neck: Continue in stocking st. When piece measures approx 10 cm from MT inc 10-11-11-12 sts evenly and repeat the inc when piece measures 14 cm and 18 cm from MT = 80-85-89-94 sts. When neck measures 38-40-42-44 cm from MT work 6 rounds garter st, cast off loosely.
Crochet border: Crochet a border along bottom edge, round the neck and round both armholes with crochet hook size 5 mm with Silke Alpaca or Nepal as follows (beg at side for bottom edge): * 1 dc, 4 ch, 1 tr in the first of these ch, skip approx 1 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.
Twisted ribbon with tassels:
Cut 2 threads Vienna or Melody and 2 threads Silke Alpaca or Nepal measuring approx 300 cm each. Twist them until they resist, fold threads double and let them twist again. Tie a knot each end. Make 1 more ribbon. Tie the 2 ribbons tog at the ends and pull through neckline, placing the knot mid back and the 2 ends at the front. Tassels: Cut 5 threads Vienna or Melody and 9 threads Silke Alpaca or Nepal measuring approx 22 cm each. Fold threads double, pull loop through loop at the end of ribbon at front and pull threads through loop. Repeat at the end of the other ribbon.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 110-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Camella 31.01.2019 - 15:43:

Hello, I am wondering if there is an option to make this longer? I like the look of it, but was looking for a longer style. If not, do you have a pattern you would recommend?

DROPS Design 01.02.2019 kl. 08:19:

Dear Camella, you probably can make it longer starting decrease later than in the pattern. We are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, you can take inspiration from our patterns for ponchos and request assistance from your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Jacqueline GASNIER 07.07.2018 - 19:12:

Bonjour, ma fille qui est enceinte,

Cyndy 18.09.2017 - 15:01:

I could use more direction about placement of twisted ribbon in the neckline please. Am not sure of where in the neckline to place this. Thank you

DROPS Design 18.09.2017 kl. 16:40:

Dear Cindy, baste it up and down the sts just before neck, starting and ending on mid front. Happy knitting!

Elly 01.11.2015 - 11:57:

3 jaar terug wilde ik deze maken, maar ik vond hem veel te lastig door het pluizige draad. Heb hem zopas afgehaald, en wil hem toch nog eens proberen. Bij het afhalen kwam ik erachter dat hij behoorlijk wijd was geworden aan de onderkant. wel 2 meter in de rondte (had slechts 8 steken teveel). Ik ben zelf slank, dus vraag ik mij af of ik hem dan beter kan aanpassen, maar zo ja, hoe doe ik dat dan? Voor zover ik kon meten kwam mijn stekenpatroon we overheen. Met vriendelijke groet, Elly

DROPS Design 02.11.2015 kl. 14:37:

Hoi Elly. Afhankelijk van welke maat je hebt gemaakt, dan heeft de poncho - met de juiste stekenverhouding - een omtrek van; maat S een ca 180 cm en de XXL ca 216 cm. Wil je hem kleiner maken, dan kan bepalen welke omtrek je wilt, brei een proeflapje (hoeveel st je hebt per 10 cm) en reken uit hoeveel st je dan moet opzetten voor de juiste omtrek. Minder dan tot het aantal st aangegeven in het patroon (als die afmetingen wel passen bij jou) of reken ook hier uit hoeveel st je moet hebben. Succes!

Schmidt-wellenburg 09.09.2015 - 13:14:

Peux-ton faire ce modèle avec la laine NEPAL? Nepal est certifiée oeko-tex ou gots non? est-elle coloré à base de plantes ou chimiquement? d'vaance merci pour vos précisions

DROPS Design 09.09.2015 kl. 14:17:

Bonjour Mme Schmidt-wellenburg, DROPS Vienna appartenait au groupe D de nos fils à tricoter, Nepal appartient au groupe C (voir les groupes ici. Retrouvez ici les équivalences possibles. La certification Oeko-Tex est indiquée sur les nuanciers des qualités qui l'ont eue, Nepal ne l'a pas. Pour toute aide ou conseil à choisir une alternative, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous renseigner. Bon tricot!

Stephanie Schmidt 06.09.2015 - 17:48:

Je souhaite réaliser ce modèle mais avec une laine 100% alpaca naturelle car j'ai de gros problème d'allergie. Auriez-vous une laine 100% naturelle à me proposer sauf la laine qui gratte? et me préceiser quelle quantité j'aurai besoin pour le modèle en S/M? d'avance je vous remercie beaucoup!

DROPS Design 07.09.2015 kl. 11:27:

Bonjour Mme Schmidt, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin DROPS, il pourra vous renseigner en fonction de vos exigences et vous aider. Bon tricot!

Maria Del Carmen Cardozo 18.05.2015 - 14:43:

Buenos días: Se puede confeccionar este modelo abierto en la parte delantera y con dos agujas? Gracias por responderme Saludos Carmen

DROPS Design 20.05.2015 kl. 17:16:

Hola Maria Del Carmen, está prenda en concreto con este tipo de cuello y las aberturas de las mangas no creo que quedaría bien en abierto. Las variaciones con respecto al patrón serían muchas.Te recomiendo buscar otro patrón que se adapte a tus gustos en nuestro amplio catálogo.

Magdalena 10.01.2015 - 21:25:

I love this design but I can't find the right yarn. Vienna is completely unavailable in the Irish Drops Superstore. The closest in blend that I could find is Puddel but I quite dislike how "curly" it is. The alternatives you recommend are discontinued and have very limited stock. The only other yarns with mohair I could find are Vivaldi and Kid Silk but recommended needle size for those are much smaller than the 9mm specified in the poncho pattern... Which should I use?

DROPS Design 12.01.2015 kl. 09:45:

Dear Magdalena, you will find here some alternatives with groups, ie 1 strand group D (Vienna) = 3 strands group A = 2 strands group B - as well as how to recalculate amount of yarn. Happy knitting!

Jacqueline 07.12.2014 - 16:39:

Patroon begint met ribbelsteek 1nld recht, 1 naald averecht.. Maar dit is een tricotsteek.. Ribbelsteek is alles echt. Dus de boord klopt volgens mij niet.

DROPS Design 08.12.2014 kl. 14:30:

Hoi Jacqueline. Ribbelst in de rondte breien is 1 nld r, 1 nld averecht.

Annika Mathiasson 29.09.2014 - 12:43:

Det står att det skall vara DROPS Silke Alpaca från Garnstudio 100 g i alla strl nr 1340, ljusbeige Men det verkar som silke alpaca utgått? Vad ersätter jag det med bäst/liknande?

DROPS Design 29.09.2014 kl. 13:36:

Hej Annika, Silke-alpaca kan ersättas med DROPS Nepal https://www.garnstudio.com/includes/oldalternatives.php?cid=1&id=50&group=C

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