DROPS / 110 / 5

DROPS 110-5 by DROPS Design

DROPS long, tailored jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Vivaldi” with belt and beret in ”Fabel” and ”Alpaca”, worked from side to side. Size S - XXXL.

JACKET
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450-450-500 g colour no 506, dark grey
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 8903, black
and use: DROPS Vivaldi
100 g for all sizes, colour no 01, black

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm – for rib.
DROPS Buffalo horn button no 536: 3 pcs.

BASQUE HAT
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 506, dark grey
and use: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 905, black/white mix

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 33 rows in garter st with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Fabel = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Rib: * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-*.
Front band: Worked in 3 threads - 1 Vivaldi + 1 Alpaca of each colour – in garter st on 6 sts towards mid front. The rest of the jacket is worked in 2 threads.
Buttonholes: Cast off for buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast of 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures 36, 48 and 60 cm for all sizes.
Increasing tip, applies to collar: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside 1 st. On return row work into back of yo-loop to avoid a hole.
Decreasing tip, applies to neckline:
Dec for neckline inside the front band + inc sts for collar. Make all dec from the RS as follows:
After front band + collar sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Before front band + collar sts: K2 tog.

Back piece: Cast on 95-101-113-125-137-149 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread dark grey Alpaca + 1 thread black Vivaldi.
Work rib as follows (first row = RS):
Size S: 1 edge st, P3, * K3, P3 *; repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 edge st.
Size M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: 1 edge st, K3, * P3, K3 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 edge st.
When rib measures 12 cm change to needle size 5 mm and 1 thread black + 1 thread dark grey Alpaca. Continue in stocking st, at the same time dec 15-16-18-20-22-24 sts evenly on first row = 80-85-95-105-115-125 sts. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 14 cm dec 1 st each side on every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm a total of 8-8-8-7-7-7 times = 64-69-79-91-101-111 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-48-48-48 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-4-5-6-6-6 cm a total of 5-5-4-3-3-3 times = 74-79-87-97-107-117 sts.
When piece measures 66 cm for all sizes cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 1-2-3-3-3-3 times and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-4 times = 60-61-63-67-69-71 sts. When piece measures 83-84-85-86-87-88 cm cast off the middle 16-17-17-19-19-19 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 21-21-22-23-24-25 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 85-86-87-88-89-90 cm.
Right front piece: Cast on 52-55-61-67-73-79 sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 6 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread dark grey Alpaca + 1 thread black Vivaldi.
Work first row as follows from the RS: 6 front band sts – see explanation above, * K3 P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When rib measures 12 cm, change to needle size 5 mm and 1 thread black and 1 thread dark grey Alpaca. Continue in stocking st, at the same time dec 7-8-9-10-11-12 sts evenly on first row (do not dec on front band sts) = 45-47-52-57-62-67 sts. When piece measures 14 cm dec at side as described for back piece = 37-39-44-50-55-60 sts.
At the same time when piece measures 36 cm cast off for buttonhole on front band – see above.
Now read all of the following section before continuing!
When piece measures 47-47-47-48-48-48 cm inc at side as described for back piece. Collar: At the same time when piece measures 63 cm inc 1 st for collar – see Increasing tip - on every other row 8 times and then on every 4th row 6 times = 20 garter sts in total.
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 65 cm cast off to shape the neckline – see Decreasing tip: 1 st on every other row 6 times and then 1 st on every 4th row 8-8-8-9-9-9 times = 35-35-36-37-38-39 sts.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 66 cm cast off for armhole as described for back piece.
When piece measures 85-86-87-88-89-90 cm cast off 21-21-22-23-24-25 sts on shoulder towards the neckline - the remaining 14 sts = collar. Continue as follows from the RS: * 2 rows garter st on all sts, 2 rows garter st on the 8 sts towards mid front only *, repeat from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm on the shorter side from shoulder. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored and without buttonholes.

Sleeve: Cast on 44-44-44-50-50-50 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread dark grey Alpaca + 1 thread black Vivaldi. Work 15 cm rib, K3/P3, with 1 edge st each side. Change to needle size 5 mm and 1 thread black + 1 thread dark grey Alpaca. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 17 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-3-2.5-3-2-1.5 cm a total of 8-10-11-10-12-14 times = 60-64-66-70-74-78 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm (less on the larger sizes because longer sleeve cap) cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 57 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back (sew tog sts from stitch holders with duplicate sts) and sew to neckline. Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Belt: Cast on 10 sts with 1 thread black Vivaldi + 1 thread dark grey Alpaca on needle size 4.5 mm. Work garter st until belt measures 130-140-150-160-170-180 cm and cast off.


BASQUE HAT
Shortened rows: To shape the hat and make it wider in the middle work shortened rows as follows – also see fig-1, beg by A. It is important to tighten thread when turning mid piece:
* work row to MT-4, turn piece, work row to MT-1, turn piece, work row to MT-3, turn piece, work row to MT-2, turn piece, work row to MT-5, turn piece, work all sts on row (= to A), turn piece, work row to MT-4, turn piece, work row to MT-1, turn piece, work row to MT-3, turn piece, work row to MT-2, turn piece, work all sts on row (= to B), turn piece, work all sts on row (= to A) *, repeat from *-*.
I.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows..


Hat: Worked from side to side. Loosely cast on 34 sts with 1 thread of each quality on needle size 5 mm. Insert 5 Marking Threads (MT) as follows: MT-1 after 2 sts, MT-2 6 sts from MT-1, MT-3 8 sts from MT-2, MT-4 12 sts from MT-3, MT-5 4 sts from MT-4 = 2 sts left.
K 2 rows on all sts and now continue with shortened rows – see above. Remember the knitting tension! When hat measures 48 cm at bottom edge (by A) cast off loosely. Pick up 80 sts along bottom edge on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K 4 rows, P 1 row and cast off loosely from the RS.
Sew hat tog mid back. Sew a thread through hat at the top, pull tight and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.09.2010
Sleeve: ....When piece measures 17 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-3-2.5-3-2-1.5 cm...

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 110-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Marion 18.02.2019 - 22:24:

Hallo. Ich versuche gerade die Abnahmen für den Halsausschnitt zu verstehen. \"Innerhalb der äussersten M. und den neuen Kragenmaschen abn. \" Dann kommt kurz danach die Unterscheidung ob nach oder vor den Blenden/Kragenmaschen die Abnahmen erfolgen, dann so oder so abn. Aber wenn ich innerhalb der äussersten M und den neuen Kragenmaschen abn, dann ist das ja weder vor noch nach den Blendenblabla M. sondern direkt in den neuen Kragenmaschen.

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 09:23:

Liebe Marion, die neuen Maschen für den Kragen sind nach der 1. Masche der Reihe /vor der 1. Masche der Reihe zugenommen. Für den Halsausschnitt nehmen Sie so ab: Re. Vorderteil: nach den Kragenmaschen (= die zugenommen Maschen) + den Blendemaschen - Li.Vorderteil: vor den Blendemaschen + den Kragenmaschen - dh die Maschenanzahl der Partien glatt rechts gestrickt wird abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Laure 19.01.2019 - 10:32:

Je démarre le projet et suis confuse avec la première notion de l explication : "VESTE point mousse tricoté en aller retours: tricoter tous les rangs à l'endroit" Et le fait que le corps du travail est en jersey (je comprends cela comme un rang endroit un rang envers en aller-retour). Ce projet n'est donc pas fait au point mousse? Merci

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 09:54:

Bonjour Laure, les explications de la veste commencent avec "Réalisation/Dos". Au début des explications du modèle lui même, on ajoute toujours quelques explications sur les techniques utilisées dans le modèle, par ex ici comment tricoter du point mousse, les côtes etc.. Cette veste se tricote bien en jersey après les côtes du bas. Bon tricot!

Victoria 03.02.2018 - 00:40:

Hola. Preciosa chaqueta. ¿Sois conscientes que en español falta parte del patrón escrito? Por ejemplo el inicio de la espalda. Gracias.

DROPS Design 04.02.2018 kl. 19:44:

Hola Victoria. Gracias por avisar, ya está publicado el texto completo.

Helle Kalmar 05.01.2018 - 20:34:

Når man tager ud til kraven, er det så med samme garn som forkanten (dvs. Både Alpaca og Vivaldi garn?). Eller tager man kun ud i alpaca garnet?

DROPS Design 10.01.2018 kl. 11:10:

Hei Helle. Når vrangborden måler 12 cm, byttes det til pinne 5 og man strikker videre med bare Alpaca (1 tråd sort + 1 tråd mørk grå), men stolpen strikkes hele veien med 3 tråder (1 tråd Vivaldi + 1 tråd sort Alpaca + 1 tråd mørk grå Alpaca). Når du starter med økningen til kragen, strikkes den med garn lik stolpen. God Fornøyelse

Laura 22.09.2017 - 18:21:

Non capisco come confezionare il basco Z-349

DROPS Design 22.09.2017 kl. 19:46:

Buonasera Laura, il basco è lavorato in piano nel senso della lunghezza utilizzando la tecnica dei ferri accorciati: alla fine lo deve cucire al centro dietro e deve cucire l'apertura in alto facendo passare un filo nelle maglie, tirando e affrancando. Buon lavoro!

Guddi 05.03.2016 - 10:18:

Hallo, ich bin jetzt hier: Von der rechten Seite: * 1 Krausrippe über alle M., 1 Krausrippe nur über die äussersten 8 M. (= gegen die Mitte) *, von *-* wiederholen bis der Kragen von der Schulter her, an der kurzen Seite 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm misst. 1 Krausrippe über alle M gestrickt, werden jetzt die 8 M von der Mitte her gestrickt? Wenn ja, dann wie weiter? Jetzt bin ich mitten in der Reihe, jetzt Arbeit wenden? Und dann? So komme ich nicht mehr dazu alle M zu stricken!? Bitte bitte Hilfe

DROPS Design 06.03.2016 kl. 08:03:

Liebe Guddi, ja Sie wenden die Arbeit dann. Es sind verkürtze Reihen, damit der Kragen schön fällt und die Kante nicht spannt. Schauen Sie sich am besetn die beiden verlinkten Videos zum Thema "Verkürzte Reihen kraus rechts" an, dann wird es sicher klarer, wie gestrickt werden soll.

Lecat 07.10.2015 - 09:22:

Bonjour je n arrive pas à poster au bonne endroit je voudrais savoir si je peux remplacer le fils vivaldi par le fils alpaca merci

DROPS Design 07.10.2015 kl. 10:10:

Voir réponse ci-dessous.

Lecat 07.10.2015 - 08:38:

Bonjour je voudrais savoir si je peux remplacer le fils Vivaldi par le fils alpaga merci et désoler je n ais pas poster au bonne endroits ma question hier

DROPS Design 07.10.2015 kl. 10:10:

Chère Madame Lecat, Alpaca appartient au groupe A, Vivaldi au groupe C (voir ici, vous pouvez remplacer Vivaldi par Brushed Alpaca Silk ou 2 fils du groupe A (= Alpaca ou Kid-Silk par ex.) - voir également ici. Bon tricot!

Lecat 06.10.2015 - 18:27:

Bonjour je voudrais savoir si je ne mes pas le fil Vivaldi et que je le remplace par un fil alpaga si sa change beaucoup par rapport au modèle merci

DROPS Design 07.10.2015 kl. 10:13:

Bonjour Mme Lecat, pour conserver le même effet, vous pouvez remplacer Vivaldi par Brushed Alpaca Silk ou 2 fils Kid-Silk. Voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

Maggie 13.11.2014 - 03:31:

Hi there, I am using a thicker yarn and am struggling to adapt the pattern to it. I cast on the 101 stitches for the medium size but now, as I come to the completion of the ribbing of the back section, I can see that it nearly measures 59 cm ! Is it this wide for the ribbing ? I think of casting off a few sections and then keeping some of this ribbing to wrap around the front instead... so I don't waste time / yarn. Any other ideas? thank you.

DROPS Design 13.11.2014 kl. 09:33:

Dear Maggie, you can get help from the written pattern as well as from measurements in chart calculating with your tension - for any individual assistance, remember you can get help from your DROPS store where you bought your yarn or from any knitting forum. Happy knitting!

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