Crème de la crème by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with ¾ sleeves and textured hem in “Muskat”

DROPS 106-3
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat, from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour no 08, off-white

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) and pointed needles size 4.5 mm - or size needed to obtain 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm
DROPS Mother-of-Pearl buttons, no 523: 6 pcs


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

Decreasing tip 1, apply to neckline:
Dec as follows after 5 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 5 sts: K2 tog

Decreasing tip 2, apply to armhole: Dec inside 4 sts
Dec as follows after 4 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 4 sts: K2 tog

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front piece.
1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from mid front, 1 yo.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24 and 29 cm.
Size M: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24 and 30 cm.
Size L: 2, 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm.
Size XL: 3, 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 cm.
Size XXL: 3, 10, 16, 23, 29 and 35 cm.
Size XXXL: 3, 10, 16, 23, 29 and 36 cm.

Front and back piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Loosely cast on 165-182-199-216-233-250 sts (incl 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st. Continue in pattern as follows: 5 front band sts in garter st, 1 stocking st, M.1 on 153-170-187-204-221-238 sts, 1 stocking st, 5 front band sts in garter st. Remember buttonholes – see explanation above. Continue in pattern like this, work 3 vertical repeats of M.1, then 1 vertical repeat of M.2 over M.1. Now work 1 row stocking st from RS, at the same time dec 12 sts evenly distributed (do not dec on 5 front band sts each side) = 153-170-187-204-221-238 sts. Continue in stocking st with front band sts in garter st. Remember the knitting tension! Insert a Marking Thread (MT) after 41-45-49-53-58-62 sts from each side (= 71-80-89-98-104-114) sts between MT mid back. When piece measures 20 cm inc 1 st on both sides of each MT on every 2.5-2.5-2.5-3-3-3 cm a total of 6 times.
Neckline: When piece measures 31-32-34-35-37-38 cm dec 1 st each side towards mid front – see Dec tip 1 – on every other row 10-10-10-10-12-12 times, then on every 4th row 3 times and on every 6th row 3 times.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of MT) and complete each side separately.

Left front piece: Continue dec for neckline and dec to shape the armhole – see Dec tip 2 – on every other row: 1 st 4-7-9-13-14-17 times. After all dec are complete there are 24-25-26-26-27-28 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 77-86-93-102-107-116 sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 69-72-75-76-79-82 sts. When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm work 4 rows garter st on the middle 31-32-33-34-35-36 sts (continue in stocking st on remaining sts), and now cast off the middle 21-22-23-24-25-26 sts for neck = 24-25-26-27-27-28 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stocking st with 5 garter sts towards neckline and cast off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Sleeve: Knitted back and forth on pointed needles. Loosely cast on 53-53-53-70-70-70 sts on needle size 4.5 mm with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st side. Work 3 vertical repeats of M.1 and then 1 vertical repeat of M.2 over M.1. Now continue in stocking st. At the same time when piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st each side on every 2.5-2-1.5-3-2-1.5 cm a total of 9-11-13-7-9-11 times = 71-75-79-84-88-92 sts. When piece measures 35-34-33-32-31-30 cm (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap) dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 2-4-5-6-8-9 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 42 cm, dec 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off. Sleeve measures approx 43 cm.

Assembly: Sew sleeve seam inside 1 edge st. Sew shoulder seams and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.
Crochet border: Crochet a border on crochet hook size 4 mm with Muskat along right front band, round the neck and down along left front band as follows: 1 dc in first st, *3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 yo
symbols = Bobble. Work 4 sts in the same st by working in front and back of loop alternately. Work 3 rows stocking st on these 4 sts and work next row as follows: slip 1 st as if to knit, K3 tog, psso.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 106-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Kay Reddy wrote:

Thank u for a beautiful pattern. I followed the pattern precisely but the bottom of the garment hasn't taken on the wave could it be the yarn that I'm using? Though it did take on using the same yarn with bigger needles I made for a friend

03.05.2022 - 07:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Reddy, to get the small waves at the bottom edge, you work diagram M.1 ( see also that video). Always remember to check your tension - read more here - to get the correct finished measurements as shown in the chart. Happy knitting!

03.05.2022 kl. 10:18

country flag Margaret wrote:

I have purchased the Muskat yarn to knit this for a wedding and looking for pretty buttons here in the US so can you tell me the size measurements of buttons for this sweater please? Thank you!

17.03.2022 - 00:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Margaret, We recommend buttons 15 mm in diameter for this pattern. Happy knitting!

17.03.2022 kl. 06:46

country flag Carolle Binette wrote:

Bonjour! J'aimerais avoir des expliquations sur les augmentations du dos pour la grandeur médium. Il y aurait 12 mailles d'augmentation, donc 92 mailles totale, mais le patron indique 86 mailles totale avant la diminution de l'emmanchure. Est-ce une erreur du patron? Pouvez vous confirmer le bon nombre de mailles? Merci beaucoup.

01.03.2022 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Binette, vous avez effectivement 80 mailles pour le dos + 12 augmentations = 92 mailles; puis, vous allez rabattre les mailles des emmanchures à 36 cm de hauteur totale = 6 m de chaque côté soit 3 mailles au début du dos + 3 mailles à la fin du dos, 92-6 m rabattues pour les emmanchures = restent 86 mailles. Bon tricot!

02.03.2022 kl. 09:26

country flag Lise Labrecque wrote:


28.03.2021 - 12:45

country flag Lise Labrecque wrote:

Ou sont les explications pour la finition de l’encolure du devant droit et gauche qui me semblent être en côtes 1/1. Il est spécifié pour la finition au crochet mais rien pour les côtes. Merci de me répondre

25.03.2021 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Labrecque, les bordures des devants sont tricotées au point mousse, en même temps que les devants et le dos (= ce sont les 5 mailles de bordure au point mousse au début et à la fin des rangs). Bon tricot!

25.03.2021 kl. 16:00

country flag Cootje Kusters wrote:

Aan de instructie om 6x1 st aan weerszijden van de markeerdraad 1 st te meerderen moet worden toegevoegd dat er uiteindelijk 24 steken worden gemeerderd, en niet 12. Dit is een instructie die tweeërlei kan worden gelezen. Helaas mis ik 12 steken nu ik bij de armsgaten ben, erg jammer.

03.07.2020 - 08:26

country flag Rosa Canina wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai déjà réalisé les 2 rangs au point mousse puis une fois le diagramme M1. Je j'obtiens absolument pas la forme de vague de la bordure . Pourriez vous m'aider svp ? Merci beaucoup d'avance !

23.02.2020 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Canina, il est possible qu'il vous faudra davantage de rangs pour bien la visualiser, vérifiez avec cette vidéo si vous avez bien tricoté le motif (attention, les rangs 3 et 4 de M.1 dans ce modèle sont les rangs 1 et 2 de la vidéo). Bon tricot!

24.02.2020 kl. 08:59

country flag Ulla Lundmark wrote:

Fråga ang mönster DROPS 106-3: I början på mönster M.1 ska man sticka 2 rm tills, hur gör man då det är 3 maskor som ska stickas.

21.08.2019 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla. För varje symbol ska du sticka 2 rm tillsammans, så det innebär att du i början av M.1 stickar 2 rm ihop 3 gånger (6 maskor blir då alltså 3), sedan stickar du vidare med rm och omslag enligt diagram och gör samma sak i slutet av M.1. Lycka till!

22.08.2019 kl. 08:35

country flag Borchardt, Angelika wrote:

Was sind Blender in der Anleitung? Ich habe noch nie davon gehört.

07.08.2019 - 09:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Borchardt, die Blende-Maschen sind die Maschen die gegen mitte Vorderteil gestrickt werden, und wo die Knopflöcher gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.08.2019 kl. 12:36

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, se volessi realizzare questo modello in lana e con le maniche lunghe anziché 3/4, quanto filato in più mi occorre? Grazie per la risposta.

02.02.2018 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica. A questo link trova le indicazioni utili per sostituire i filati. Per la quantità da aggiungere può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

02.02.2018 kl. 21:08

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