DROPS / 106 / 2

Dancing Jewels by DROPS Design

DROPS dress in textured pattern in “Muskat”.

Size: XS – S – M – L – XL – XXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat, from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 08, off-white

DROPS circular needle (80 cm) size 4.5 mm - or size needed to obtain 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 to M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side..

Decreasing tip 1, apply to neckline:
Dec as follows before Marking Thread (MT): K2 tog
Dec as follows after Marking Thread (MT): slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Decreasing tip 2: All dec done from RS. Dec inside 3 garter sts.
Dec as follows after 3 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 sts: K2 tog

Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, make all measurements while the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

Dress, front and back piece:
Knitted in the round from bottom up. See Measuring tip! Loosely cast on 198-216-234-252-270-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Muskat.
P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round. Continue in M.1, work 4 vertical repeats of M.1, and then work M.2 and M.3.
Piece now measures approx 15 cm and there are 176-192-208-224-240-256 st s on needle. Continue in stocking st. Remember the knitting tension.
When piece measures 24-24-25-25-26-26 cm insert 6 Marking Threads (MT) as follows: work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-1, work 33-35-37-39-43-45 sts, MT-2, work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-3 in next st (= side), work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-4, work 33-35-37-39-43-45 sts, MT-5, work 27-30-33-36-38-41 sts, MT-6 in next st (= side).
On next round dec 1 st on both sides of st with MT-3 and MT-6 (i.e. at sides) – see Dec tip 1.
Repeat this dec on every 6-6-7-7-9-9 round a total of 8-8-7-7-6-6 times.
At the same time, when doing the 4-4-3-3-2-2 dec, also dec 1 st by the remaining MT as follows: after MT-1 and MT-4 and before MT-2 and MT-5 – see Dec tip 1.
Repeat this dec on every 6-6-7-7-9-9 round (same rounds as dec at sides) a total of 4 times. After all dec are complete there are 128-144-164-180-200-216 sts on round and piece measures approx 40-40-41-41-42-42 cm.
Continue in stocking st, remove MT-1, 2, 4 and 5, at the same time for size XS + XL: dec 2 sts evenly on front piece on first round, size M: dec 2 sts evenly on back piece on first round, (in order to have 1 st mid front and mid back and to make number of sts fit M.2) = 126-144-162-180-198-216 sts (no dec in size S, L and XXL).
When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm work 3 vertical repeats of M.1 – NB! Make sure arrow in diagram is mid front. Continue in M.2 and M.4 - make sure to place pattern with middle st over middle of M.1 as shown in diagram. After M.4 there are again an equal number of sts front and back because of the additional inc in M.4 for size XS + M + XL. Continue in stocking st.
At the same time when piece measures 56-57-58-60-61-62 cm inc 1 st on both sides of MT at sides, and repeat this inc for the 3 smaller sizes on every 2-2-3 cm 3-2-1 times = 156-172-188-204-224-244 sts (= 77-85-93-101-111-121 sts on front and back piece + 1 st each side).

Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm work 4 rows garter st on the 7 sts mid front. Now dec the middle st and continue back and forth on needle. Continue with 3 garter st towards neckline and dec to shape the neckline on every other row – see Dec tip 1: 1 st 11-12-12-12-13-13 times, and then on every 4th row: 1 st 6 times. .

Armhole: At the same time, when piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm work 4 rows garter st on 13-13-15-17-19-21 sts each side (i.e. st with MT + 6-6-7-8-9-10 sts either side), work remaining sts as before. Now cast off the middle 7-7-9-11-13-15 sts each side for armhole, and complete front and back pieces separately.

Left front piece: Continue dec for neckline and dec to shape the armhole – see Dec tip 2 – inside 3 garter sts on every other row: 1 st 5-7-8-9-11-13 times. After all dec are complete there are 13-15-16-18-19-21 sts left on shoulder. Continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts each side and cast off when piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm.

Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 71-79-85-91-99-107 sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 61-65-69-73-77-81 sts. Continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm work 4 rows garter st on the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 sts, and now cast off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 sts for neck. Continue with 3 garter sts each side and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 5 times – see Dec tip 2 = 13-15-16-18-19-21 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm.

Assembly Sew shoulder seam.
Crochet border: Crochet a border on crochet hook size 4 mm with Muskat round neckline and armholes as follows: 1 dc in first st, *3 ch, skip 1 cm, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
= 1 yo
= Bobble. Work 4 sts in the same st by working in front and back of loop alternately. Work 3 rows stocking st on these 4 sts and work next row as follows: slip 1 st as if to knit, K3 tog, psso.
= mid front

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 106-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (74)

Vera 11.07.2018 - 15:13:

Es geht bei M 1 um Reihe 3 die letzten 4 gezeichneten Maschen. In der Strickschrift werden 3 x hintereinander 2 M rechts zusammengestrickt gefolgt von einer weiteren rechten Masche. Die 3 aufeinanderfolgenden müssen aber nicht zusammen gestrickt werden sondern 1 M rechts abheben, 1 M rechts stricken und die abgehobene M überziehen. Das Symbol ist falsch herum

DROPS Design 11.07.2018 kl. 15:58:

Liebe Vera, in M.1 wird man 2 M rechts zusammen am Anfang und am Ende des Diagrams - siehe dieses Video (das Muster im Video ist etwas unterschiedlich aber troztdem wird man auch 2 M re zs stricken). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vera 11.07.2018 - 13:02:

Die Strickschrift von M 1 ist falsch.Die 3 letzten Abnahmen im Rapport müssen links geneigt sein sonst entsteht kein Fächer (also 1 M abheben, 1 re, abgehobene überziehen).Weiter bei Gr. L und der Einteilung der Markierungsfäden. So muss es richtig heißen 36 M stricken, 1. Markierungsfaden, 40 M stricken, 2. Markierungsfaden, 36 M stricken, 3. Markierungsfaden,36 M stricken,4. Markierungsfaden,40 M stricken,5. Markierungsfaden,36 M stricken, 6. Markierungsfaden.Sonst sind es 222 M statt 224

DROPS Design 11.07.2018 kl. 13:46:

Liebe Vera, M.1 ist so richtig, bei der letzten Reihe in M.1 stricken Sie 3 M li, 11 M re, 4 M li = diese 18 M wiederholen. Bei der Größe L stimmt schon die Maschenanzahl, die 3. Markierungsfaden und die 6. Markierungsfaden sind in einem M eingesetzt, das sind sicher die 2 "fehlenden" Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vibeke Tryk 14.05.2018 - 01:27:

Hvordan får jeg en midt maske for og bag når jeg har 80m på forstk og 82 m på bagstk?

DROPS Design 15.05.2018 kl. 14:58:

Hei Vibeke. Merketråd 3 og 6 (i sidene) sitter i hver sin maske, og ikke mellom 2 masker. Du vil derfor ha 79 masker på forstykke og 81 masker på bakstykke, og da blir det en midtmaske på hver del. God fornøyelse

Jeanette 13.12.2017 - 02:15:

When inserting the marking threads (MT) for decreasing the large size, I come up with two extra stitches. The count of stitches don't add up to 224 stitches, but 222. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. The maths don't work, so I'm thinking I don't understand the pattern. Thank you.

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 10:31:

Dear Jeanette, 2 markers are inserted in a stitch and not between sts, these maybe the both you are missing: work 36 sts, MT-1, work 39 sts, MT-2, work 36 sts, MT-3 in next st (= side), work 36 sts, MT-4, work 39 sts, MT-5, work 36 sts, MT-6 in next st (= side) = 36+39+36+ 1 (st with marker) + 36+39+36 + 1 (st with marker) = 224 sts. Happy knitting!

María Antonia 11.09.2016 - 13:02:

Buenos días En la talla XL, cuando hay que insertar los MP no me salen las cuentas 38 MP1 43 MP2 38 MP3 38 MP4 43 MP5 38 MP6 suman en total 238 puntos, no 240. Saludos

DROPS Design 17.09.2016 kl. 18:40:

Hola Maria Antonia. El MP3 y MP6 hay que insertar dentro del pt y no entre ellos. Son justo los 2 pts que te faltaban en el número total.

Zana 28.09.2015 - 15:09:

This is a beautiful pattern, thank you! just finished the lower boarder, and the next instruction mention m-5 and m-6, which does not provide. Where are M-5 and M-6, please?

DROPS Design 28.09.2015 kl. 16:13:

Dear Zana, there are only 4 diagrams called M.1, M.2, M.3 and M.4 - see at the bottom of the pattern. But you will have to insert 6 markers (MT = marking threads) called MT-1, MT-2, MT-3, MT-4, MT-5 and MT-6. Happy knitting!

Mette Panum Jacobsen 08.03.2015 - 22:26:

Jeg vender altid tilbage til denne model, da den sidder rigtig flot og er strikket op i Muskat, som jeg er stor fan af.

Diana Demming 22.01.2015 - 14:01:

In de beschrijving staat een fout. Er staat: Rechter voorpand. Brei zoals het rechter voorpand, maar dan in spiegelbeeld. Moet volgens mij zijn brei zoals linker voorpand, .....etc.

DROPS Design 22.01.2015 kl. 14:08:

Hoi Diana. Je hebt gelijk. Het is aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden.

Gry Karoline Lindkjenn 06.01.2015 - 17:37:

Vil som andre her forlenge til kjole. Og vil da strikke skjørt-delen lengre. Men hva gjør jeg da med fellingen? Skal jeg felle inn sjeldnere så det blir jevnt? Ønsker str M men i total lengde 93 cm.

DROPS Design 07.01.2015 kl. 15:41:

Hei Gry. Ja, jeg ville nok felle med laengere afstand. Pröv eventuel kjolen undervejs og se hvordan det passer. God fornöjelse.

Irene 07.08.2014 - 20:58:

Hei. Jeg vil gjerne gjøre denne om til en kjole. Hvor forlenger jeg den da?

DROPS Design 08.08.2014 kl. 14:13:

Hei Irene. Du skal strikke længere på skørtet - altså stykket mellem underkanten (mønstret) op til mønstret i taljen.

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