DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS SS24
DROPS 99-29
Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements at chest: 33"-37 ¾"-42½"-47 ¼"
Full length: 15 ¾"-17"-18"-19"

Materials:DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150 g color no 8105, light gray-blue
and use DROPS Vivaldi from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes color no 24, light violet

DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm [US H/8] - or the crochet hook size needed to obtain correct crochet gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge; 4 tr (= 1 tr –group) + 4 ch must measure 6 cm [2⅜"] in width with 1 thread of each yarn quality (= 2 threads)

Increasing tip -1: Inc 1 extra tr-group, with 4 ch in between one ch loop = 2 tr-groups with 4 ch in between 1 ch loop.
Increasing tip -2: Inc 2 extra tr-group with 4 ch in between 1 ch loop = 3 tr-groups with 4 ch in between 1 ch loop.
Note: Remember there must be 4 ch between each tr-group.

YOKE
Crochet piece back and forth from mid front from neck down (1st row = RS).
Crochet 91-108-126-143 ch on crochet hook size 5 mm [US H/8] with 1 thread of each yarn quality (= 2 threads).
Turn, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch * skip 1 ch, 1 sc in next 4 ch * repeat from *-*, for sizes S/M and XL finish with 1 sc in last ch, for sizes L and XXL finish with 1 sc in each of 3 last ch = 73-87-101-115 sc on row.
Crochet 1st row as follows – see also diagram 1: 4 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 sc, * 4 ch, skip 3 sc, 1 tr in each of next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 11-13-15-17 tr-groups and 10-12-14-16 ch loops. Now crochet as shown in Diagram1 at the same time inc for each size as follows:

Size S/M:
2nd row in tr-group: Inc 1 tr-group on each side in 3rd ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip - 1 = 12 tr-groups and 13 ch loops.
3rd row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 4th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip -2 = 17 tr-groups and 16 ch loops.
4th row in tr-group: Inc 4 tr-groups. 1 tr-group on each side in outermost ch loop mid front and 1 tr-group on each side in 5th ch loop from mid front = 20 tr-groups and 21 ch loops.
5th row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 6th ch loop from mid front = 25 tr-groups and 24 ch loops.
Piece measures approx 15 cm [6"]. Now crochet as indicated under back and front pieces.

Size L:
2nd row in tr-group:
Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 3rd ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip -2 = 16 tr- groups and 17 ch loops.
3rd row in tr-group: Inc 1 tr-group on each side in 4th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip - 1 = 19 tr-groups and 18 ch loops.
4th row in tr-group: Inc 4 tr-groups. 1 tr-group on each side in outermost ch loop mid front and 1 tr-group on each side in 5th ch loop from mid front = 22 tr-groups and 23 ch loops.
5th row in tr-group: Inc 5 tr-groups. 2 tr-groups on each side in 6th ch loop and 1 tr-group mid back = 28 tr-groups and 27 ch loops.
Piece measures approx 15 cm [6"]. Now crochet as indicated under back and front pieces.

Size XL:
2nd row in tr-group: Inc 1 tr-group on each side in 4th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip - 1 = 16 tr-groups and 17 ch loops.
3rd row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 5th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip -2 = 21 tr-groups and 20 ch loops.
4th row in tr-group: Inc 1 tr-group on each side in 6th ch loop from mid front = 22 tr-groups and 23 ch loops.
5th row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 6th ch loop from mid front = 27 tr-groups and 26 ch loops.
6th row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-group on each side in 7th ch loop from mid front = 30 tr-groups and 31 ch loops.
7th row in tr-group: Crochet 1 row without inc = 31 tr-group and 30 ch loops.
Piece measures approx 21 cm [8¼"]. Now crochet as indicated under back and front pieces.

Size XXL:
2nd row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 4th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip -2 = 20 tr-groups and 21 ch loops.
3rd row in tr-group: Inc 1 tr-group on each side in 5th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip - 1 = 23 tr-groups and 22 ch loops.
4th row in tr-group: Inc 4 tr-groups. 1 tr-group on each side in outermost ch loop mid front and 1 tr-group on each side in 6th ch loop from mid front – read Increasing tip - 1 = 26 tr-groups and 27 ch loops.
5th row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 7th ch loop from mid front = 31 tr-groups and 30 ch loops.
6th row in tr-group: Inc 3 tr-groups; 1 tr-group on each side on 7th ch loop from mid front and 1 tr-grouped mid back = 33 tr-groups and 34 ch loops.
7th row in tr-group: Crochet 1 row without inc = 34 tr-groups and 33 ch loops. Piece measures approx 21 cm [8¼"]. Now crochet as indicated under back and front pieces.

Back and front pieces: Crochet like before (without inc) over first 4-5-5-6 tr-group on row (= right front piece), skip next 5-5-6-6 tr-groups (= sleeve), crochet like before over next 7-8-9-10 tr-groups (= back piece ), skip 5-5-6-6 next tr-groups (= sleeve) and crochet like before over 4-5-5-6 last tr-groups (= left front piece) = 15-18-19-22 tr-groups with 4 ch between each. Crochet diagram 1 back and forth like before over 15-18-19-22 tr-groups until piece measures approx 40-43-46-48 cm [15 ¾"-17"-18"-19"] (or to desired length). Cut and sew threads.

Edge: Crochet on hook size 5 mm [US H/8] with 1 thread of each yarn quality 1 row of ch loops with edge mid front on each side as follows: 1 sc in first st, * 5 ch, skip approx 2 cm [3/4"], 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*.

Crochet string: Crochet ch with 1 thread of each yarn quality (= 2 threads) on crochet hook size 5 mm [US H/8] until string measures approx 130 to 170 cm [51" to 67"]. Pull it up and down through holes in waist coat in waist so ends end up outside on each side mid front.
Make 1 tassel on each end of string as follows: Cut approx. 30 threads of DROPS Vivaldi 20 cm [8"] long. Hold threads tog and double them. Sew crochet thread round bent side of tassel and twist one of the threads around the top part of tassel to hold it tog. Cut and sew thread.

US English translations for the diagram:
1 rapport = 1 repeat

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 tr (crochet around ch loop)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (66)

country flag Maribel wrote:

Que significa p e en ganchillo?

15.04.2024 - 00:45

country flag Adele wrote:

How many chains under the arm holes?

07.03.2022 - 14:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Adele, you are working size S/M, correct? you dont crochet any chains under armhole, just work: first 4 tr-group as before, skip 5 tr group for the sleeve, work as before the next 7 tr-groups, skip 5 tr group for the sleeve and crochet the last 4 tr-groups. Happy crocheting!

08.03.2022 - 10:49

country flag Adele wrote:

I am having trouble understanding where to do the increase in row 5 of s/m size... "5th row in tr-group: Inc 2 tr-groups on each side in 6th ch loop from mid front = 25 tr-groups and 24 ch loops." Is the 5th row increase done in between the increases of row 4 or inside the 4 chain of the increase of row 4? Please help. Adele

06.03.2022 - 05:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Adele, for the 5th increase row, you increase in the 6th 4-ch-space from the beginning of the row and in the 6th 4-ch-space before the end of the row by working 3 tr-groups (instead of just 1). Happy crocheting!

07.03.2022 - 08:46

country flag Vivian Petersen wrote:

Please tell me which single yarn to substitute for the Alpaca and the Vivaldi mix for the Nearly Spring pattern. Please don't refer me to the links I just ask you to tell me directly. Thank you.

27.12.2021 - 05:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Vivian, you can use one single thread of DROPS Melody. Happy crocheting!

28.12.2021 - 10:22

country flag Nadia wrote:

Hello, Increasing tip 1&2: Increase extra dtr-group, with 4ch in between one ch loop. What is this one ch loop? There are always 4ch between every dtr group, so I don’t understand this 4ch in between one ch loop. Thank you in advance for your answer.

25.01.2020 - 01:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nadia, 1 ch-loop is 1 ch-space, ie the 4 chains between the dtr groups. You have to crochet 4 dtr around the 4-chain-space; to increase 1 dtr group, you will crochet 4 dtr, 4 ch, 4 dtr in the same ch-space; to increase 2 dtr-groups you will crochet 4 dtr, 4 ch, 4 dtr, 4 ch, 4 dtr in each dtr group. Happy crocheting!

27.01.2020 - 08:10

country flag Sibolien wrote:

Graag zou ik willen weten wat voor alternatief garen ik kan gebruiken voor het haken van het hesje. Het hesje wil ik graag haken met 1 garen.

06.04.2018 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sibolien, Je kunt hiervoor een garen kiezen uit garengroep D. Alpaca valt namelijk in garengroep A en Vivaldi valt in garengroep C. 1 draad van A plus 1 draad van C komt overeen met 1 draad van D.

08.04.2018 - 18:27

country flag Åsa wrote:

Hej Om jag fattar rätt så ska jag använda båda garnsorterna hela tiden.. Hur kan då förbrukningen vara 150 gr av det ena men bara 100 gr av det andra garnet? Borde det inte gå åt lika mycket av varje? Vill gärna ha svar för att kunna köpa rätt mängd / färgbad. Tack//Åsa

15.02.2018 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Garnmängden i mönstret är korrekt. Orsaken till att det går åt ett nystan mindre av Vivaldi är att metermängden är större på detta garn än på Alpaca.

15.02.2018 - 14:28

country flag Anke Visser wrote:

Ik maak maat s/m. Ik haak met katoen. Stekenproef klopte en ook de lengte van deel 1 (15 cm). Bij deze maat is het mouwtje erg strak. Ik heb nog een extra ketting van vier lossen gemaakt onder de arm om het mouwtje iets groter te maken. Ook dit is nog te krap. Ik raad mensen met maat s/m aan maat L te haken. Verder is het patroon prima, mede dankzij de vragen en opmerkingen van anderen. Misschien goed om aan te vullen dat het patroon in een stuk wordt gehaakt en uitleg over middenvoor.

16.05.2017 - 22:47

country flag Elizabeth wrote:

How do I start row 3?

18.11.2016 - 02:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elizabeth, read diagram from the left towards the right from WS, ie on row 3 in diagram (= row 2 in Diag.1), work 4 ch, 1 sc in next tr, ... Happy crocheting!

18.11.2016 - 13:04

country flag ISABELLE PEREZ wrote:

Bonjour, La laine Drops Vivaldi est introuvable, par quoi peux t on la remplacer svp ?

06.10.2016 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Perez, à la place de Vivaldi, vous pouvez utiliser 2 fils Kid-Silk (ex ici ou 1 fil Brushed Alpaca Silk. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos à ce sujet. Bon crochet!

06.10.2016 - 10:11