DROPS / 99 / 2

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DROPS long sleeves less cardigan with wide shoulders crochet in “Muskat”. Sizes XS - XXL

Size: XS/S - M –L –XL - XXL
Finished measurements at chest: 30”-35½”-41 ¾”-48”-53½”
Full length: 28 ¾”-28 ¾”-28 ¾”-32”-32”

Materials:DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 g color no. 01, light blue lilac

DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm [US G/6]or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet gauge.

Crochet gauge: 16 dc x 10 rows using hook size 4 mm [US G/6]and Muskat =10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet info: At the beg. of row substitute the dc with 3 ch.

Pattern info: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. M.2 is crochet only in size XL and XXL - one time after M.1
Size XS/S–M-L: 1 repeat = M.1
Size XL-XXL: 1 repeat = M.1 + M.2
The diagrams are seen from the RS. English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.

Increasing tip: For inc. crochet 1 extra ch-loop at the end of a row with ch-loops. Crochet until finish, then crochet 8 ch, 1 sc in the last sc. Turn and crochet the first sc in the new ch-loop.

Bind off tip:
For rows with tr:
bind off as follows at beg. of row: Substitute 3 tr with 3 sl sts.
bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn when there are 3 tr left on row .
For rows with ch-loops:
bind off as follows from beg. of row: Crochet sl sts over the the last ch-loop from previous row.
bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn when 1 ch-loop is left.

Crochet squares: 1 crochet square measures approx. 13 x 13 cm [5 1/8” x 5 1/8”].

Crochet squares: Crochet 5 ch and make a ring with a sl st in first ch. Read crochet info!
1st round: crochet 16 dc in the ring.
2nd round: 1 sc in the first dc, *3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and a sl st in the first sc = 8 ch-loops.
3rd round: *1 dc in each sc, 3 dc in each ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish with a sl st in the first dc = 32 dc
4th round: 1 sc in the first dc, *3 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and a sl st in the first sc = 16 ch-loops
5th round: *1 dc in each sc and 2 dc in each ch-loop*, repeat from *-* until finish round and finish with a sl st in the first dc = 48 dc
6th round: *1 sc in the first dc, 5 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in the next dc*, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 ch and a sl st in the first sc = 16 ch-loops
7th round: Crochet sl sts until the middle of the first ch-loop *(7 ch, 1 sc in the next ch-loop), repeat from (-)a total of 3 times, 10 ch (=corner), 1 sc in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* until finish round. Cut and sew the thread.
Crochet a total of 6-7-8-9-10 squares. Put the squares on top of each other 2 by 2 and crochet as follows: 1 sc in the outer most ch-loop of both squares, *5 ch, 1 sc in the next ch-loop of both squares*, repeat from *-* until the squares are crochet tog. as a long string. Continue to crochet the sleeves less cardigan from the squares and down in one piece, and then the top part.


Bottom piece: Crochet back and forth from the mid front. All measures should be done from the bottom line of the squares. Front and back piece are done in one piece, i.e. without any side seams.
Crochet the first row from the WS.
Crochet 120-144-168-192-216 sc in the bottom edge of the string of crochet squares (crochet approx. 20-20-21-21-22 sc in each square)
Turn and crochet according to M.1A over the first 3 sc, repeat M.1B over the next 114-138-162-186-210 sc and finish with M.1C.
Work M.1 (M.1 + M.2 for size XL and XXL) – read pattern info, 2 times in total. AT THE SAME TIME when M.1 is worked for the 2nd time, on 1st row inc 6 tr evenly distributed = 126-150-174-198-222 tr. Then work according to M.3, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row inc 6 tr evenly distributed = 132-156-180-204-228 tr.

Cut and sew the thread tight. The piece measures approx. 30-30-30-34-34 cm [11 ¾”-11 ¾”-11 ¾”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”].

Top piece: Crochet the first row from the WS.
Crochet 120-144-168-192-216 sc in the top edge of the string of squares. Split the work and finish front and back pieces separately. All measures are done from the top edge of the string of squares.
Right front: 1st row = RS. Crochet M.1 (M.1 + M.2 for size XL and XXL) – read pattern info over 30-36-42-48-54 sc at the right side of the piece. (crochet M.1A over the first 3 dc then repeat M.1B over the next 24-30-36-42-48 sc and finish with M.1C). At the same time at the end of the 6th, 8th and 10th row of M.1 inc. for wide shoulder – read increasing tip above. At the same time bind off 3 tr/ 1 ch-loop for the neck shaping on every 2.5 cm [7/8’’] a total of 4-4-4-5-5 times – read binding off tip. After a total of 2 vertical repeats of M.1 (M.1 + M.2 for size XL and XXL) are completed crochet M.3. After all dec. and inc. are completed there are 27-33-39-42-48 tr left for each shoulder. Cut and sew the thread tight when the piece measures approx. 30-30-30-34-34 cm [11 ¾”-11 ¾”-11 ¾”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”]. The total length of the cardigan is approx. 73-73-73-81-81 cm [28 ¾”-28 ¾”-28 ¾”-32”-32”]

Left from piece: Crochet as right front but reverse. Note: To get the bind off edges look the same each side, beg. the left front piece at the mid front. 1st row is the WS.

Back piece: 1st row =RS. Crochet M.1 (M.1 + M.2 for size XL and XXL) – read pattern info, over the mid 60-72-84-96-108 sc. (Crochet M.1A over the first 3 sc, repeat M.1B over the next 54-66-78-90-102 sc and finish with M.1C). At the same time at the end of the 6th to 11th row inc. for wide shoulder as done for the front pieces. Crochet a total of 2 repeats of M.1 (M.1 + M.2 for size XL and XXL) then crochet M.3 (after all inc. for the wide shoulder there are 78-90-102-114-126 tr) At the same time on the 3rd row of M.3 crochet 1 row but only over the outer most 27-33-39-42-48 tr/ch each side (do not crochet over the mid 24-24-24-30-30 tr/ch= neck line). Crochet the last row of M.3, cut and sew the thread, the piece measures approx. 30-30-30-34-34 cm [11 ¾”-11 ¾”-11 ¾”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”].

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams with small neat stitches. Sew approx. 4 cm [1½’’] tog. underneath the armhole, i.e. up to where the inc. for the shoulder beg.

Crochet edge: Crochet and edge around the armholes and up along the opening of the sleeve less cardigan as follows: Crochet up along one side of the front piece around the neck opening and down along the other front piece:
1st row: Crochet 1 sc, *3 ch, skip over approx. 1-1.5 cm [3/8”-½’’], 1 sc*, repeat from *-* until finish.
2nd row: 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-loop (in the transitions between the neck and front pieces crochet 4 sc in each ch-loop).
3rd row: 1 dc in each sc.

Twisted string: Cut 4 threads Muskat of approx 3 meters [3.2 yds]. Twist them tog until they resist, double thread and let it twist tog. Tie a knot approx 5 cm [2’’] from each end of the string. Pull thread up and down through the 2nd round of tr above the crochet squares. Make a tassel for each end: cut 25 threads Muskat of approx. 25 cm [10’’] each. Split the string above the knot and pull the threads through the split. Knot the threads tog. and twist 1 of them around the top of the tassel to keep it tog. Cut and sew the thread.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.08.2015
Correction: Adjusted the increase on bottom piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 tr
= This row is explained in the pattern and is not incl. in M.1. Begin at the 2nd row.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 99-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Lisa 12.03.2020 - 17:01:

Bonjour, j en suis en haut du gilet, pouvez vous m expliquer à propos des diminutions , j ai pas compris le procédé, je vous remercie .

DROPS Design 12.03.2020 kl. 17:11:

Bonjour Lisa, vous trouverez comment diminuer sous DIMINUTIONS, par ex si vous devez diminuez 3 brides en début de rang, crochetez 1 mc dans chacune des 3 premières mailles (= 3 diminutions), puis 1 mc dans la suivante, 4 ml (= 1ère DB) et continuez le rang jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 mailles, tournez sans crocheter ces 3 mailles. Bon crochet!

Alexandra 21.01.2020 - 01:32:

Hola. Finalizando la espalda, hay que trabajar solo los 33 puntos externos de la 3a fila del M3 de cada lado. ¿Cómo se hace esto exactamente? ¿A la ida se trabajan 33 puntos, se corta y se hace el otro extremo para volver y hacer los 90 puntos de la última fila? ¿o bien se hacen 33 puntos, se vuelve, se trabaja la última fila entera, volviendo solo sobre los 33 puntos del otro extremo? Perdón, no sé cuál sería la mejor forma.

Alicia Cortinas Vicent 26.11.2019 - 00:54:

Al final del delantero izquierdo, después de repetir M1, hay que hacer M3, pero, ¿cuántas veces? ¿Hasta que la pieza mida 30 cm desde la parte superior de los cuadrados de la cintura, aunque se quede a mitad de un M3? Lo digo porque no me cuadran las medidas. Mi pieza ahora mismo mide 30 cm del final hasta la parte de arriba de los cuadrados y 22 cm la parte delantera. Gracias.

DROPS Design 30.11.2019 kl. 20:51:

Hola Alicia. M.3 se trabaja hasta alcanzar la medida deseada de la prenda.

Alicia 21.11.2019 - 19:43:

Buenas, En la parte donde hay que aumentar 6 puntos altos en la parte inferior, en el M1, en el patrón en español indica que hay que aumentar dos veces estos 6 puntos la 2a vez y 3a vez que se repite el M1. Como antes indicaba que solo se repite dos veces, leí el patrón en inglés y alemán y ahí indican cosas distintas. En estos últimos hay que aumentar 6 puntos altos en la 2a fila de M1 la segunda vez que se repite. Los otros 6 se aumentan en el M3. Seguramente se trate de un error.

DROPS Design 24.11.2019 kl. 22:47:

Hola Alicia. Se trata de una corrección después de publicar el patrón. Ya está añadida. Gracias por avisar.

Rina Wells 27.10.2019 - 11:19:

On the chart for this pattern would please let me know what rad means beside the row number.

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 22:28:

Dear Rina. this is an old pattern, in which the chart is in Norsk. Rad means row. Happy knitting!

Tineke Smit-Kooiman 17.08.2018 - 22:10:

Goedenavond, is er ook een tekening van het vierkant?

DROPS Design 20.08.2018 kl. 08:28:

Dag Tineke, Nee, helaas is er geen tekening; alleen een beschrijving. Kom je er uit met de beschrijving?

Janneke 20.07.2018 - 10:28:

Ik ben begonnen aan het rechtervoorpand. De eerste dubbele stokjes op de goede kant, als ik dan in toer 6 ga meerderen, komt de meerdering aan het voorgedeelte en de mindering daar waar straks het rugpand aan moet (volgens mij dus precies verkeerd om) en als ik meerder/ minder in M1 dan meerder/ minder ik al ergens op mijn buik (ik haak xl), is dat de bedoeling?

DROPS Design 07.08.2018 kl. 09:51:

Dag Janneke, Je meerdert aan de kant van de mouw en je mindert voor de hals aan de kant van midden voor. Met het rechter deel wordt bedoelt, het rechter deel, wanneer je het kledingstuk draagt. En je haakt dus op dat moment vanaf de taille naar boven toe.

Thea 11.05.2018 - 18:00:

Er staat in de 6e, 8e en 10e toer meerderen. Maar toer 10 zit in M2. Moet ik nu wel of niet meerderen in die toer? Ik haak de L

DROPS Design 12.05.2018 kl. 15:19:

Hallo Thea, Ja hoor, als je bij M2 bent kun je ook gewoon meerderen. Zie bij tip voor het meerderen hoe je dit doet (een extra lossenboogje haken aan het eind van de toer)

Emily 09.05.2018 - 14:37:

How many skeins or how many grams of yarn does this require? Having trouble locating.

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 14:58:

Dear Emily, you will find the required amount of yarn for each size under header, ie 400-450-500-550-600 g color no. 01, light blue lilac in DROPS Muskat. Muskat = 50 g a skein so that in 1st size you will need: 400/50= 8 balls DROPS Muskat in size XS/S. Happy crocheting!

Yvonne 20.04.2018 - 23:11:

Het meerderen van een lossenboogje lukt me niet. Ik zou daar graag een filmpje van zien. Kan dat?

DROPS Design 21.04.2018 kl. 12:40:

Hallo Yvonne, Er is helaas geen filmpje van het meerderen van dit lossenboogje. Wat je doet is aan het eind van de toer, dus nadat je 1 vaste hebt gemaakt in het lossenboogje van de vorige toer, dan haak je nog 8 lossen en maak je deze met een vaste vast in de eerste vaste.

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