DROPS / 81 / 22

DROPS 81-22 by DROPS Design

DROPS Crocheted cardigan in Cotton Viscose

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-86-92-102-114 cm [31.5" - 33 7/8" - 36.25" - 40 1/8" - 44 7/8"]
Hem: 68-74-80-92-102 cm [26.75" - 29 1/8" - 31.5" - 36.25" - 40 1/8"]
The measurements may seem a little small, but the garment will be very stretchy so make your usual size.

Materials: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 gr nr 17, beige

DROPS 3.5 mm [US D] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

3 pcs DROPS Pearl shell buttons nr 522

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Crochet gauge: approx. 3.5 ch-spaces in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

Measuring-tips: Make all width measurements when piece is lying flat and all length measurements when the piece is held up.

Diagrams: See diagrams. The pattern is seen from the right side and shows the armhole shaping.

Back:
Ch 97-105-113-129-145. Row 1 crochet as follows: 1 sc in 9th ch from hook, * ch 7, skip over 7 ch, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat from * - * = 12-13-14-16-18 ch-spaces, turn the work.
Then crochet the next row and following rows as follows:
ch 8, 1 sc in 4th ch in first ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch, * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th ch in the next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch *, repeat from *-* across row, turn the work.
When the piece measures 20 cm inc 1 ch-space at each side by making 1 extra bow (i.e repeat *-* twice) in the next to last ch-space at each side = 14-15-16-18-20 ch-spaces on row.

Armhole: When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole each side as follows:
Sizes XS + S/M + M/L: Crochet until 1 ch-space remains, turn the work, crochet back and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagram1A.
Sizes XL + XXL: Crochet until 1 ch-space remains, turn the work, sl st to the center of first ch-space, continue across row and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagram 1B.
1-1-1-2-2 ch-spaces bound off at each side = 12-13-14-14-16 ch-spaces remain on row.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm, then bind off for the neck by crocheting 2 rows over only 4-5-5-5-5 ch-spaces at each shoulder (do not crochet over the center 4-3-4-4-6 ch-spaces). The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut yarn.

Right front: Ch 49-57-57-65-73.
Then crochet as on back = 6-7-7-8-9 ch-spaces.
When the piece measures 20 cm inc 1 ch-space at the side as on back = 7-8-8-9-10 ch-spaces.
When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back = 6-7-7-7-8 ch-spaces.
When the piece measures 38-40-42-44-46 cm bind off for the neck as follows in all Sizes: Follow directions for armhole bind off for Sizes XL+XXL 1 time. Neck shaping is now complete for Sizes XS, S/M, M/L and XL.
Size XXL: Follow directions for armhole bind off for Sizes S+S/M+ M/L 1 time. You have bound off 2-2-2-2-3 spaces and 4-5-5-5-5 ch-spaces remain on shoulder. Continue until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut yarn.

Left front: Crochet the same as the right, reversing all shaping.

Sleeve: Ch 65-65-81-81-89. Crochets as on Body = 8-8-10-10-11 ch-spaces. After 2 row inc by making 1 extra ch-space in the next to last space at one side, crochet 3 rows and inc on the other side in the same manner. Repeat inc at each side 1 more time with 3 rows between each inc = 12-12-14-14-15 ch-spaces on row. Continue until the piece measures 24-24-24-22-19 cm. Bind off for sleeve cap by crocheting 6-6-6-8-12 rows with 1 ch-space fewer at the end of each row, cut yarn. The piece measures approx. 31-31-31-31-32 cm.

Assembly: Crochet shoulders together as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-space on back, ch 4, 1 sc in first ch-space on front, ch 4, 1 sc in the next ch-space on back, and so on.
Crochet together the sleeve and side seams in the same manner. Then crochet the sleeves in.

Cuffs: Now crochet an edge at lower edge of sleeves as follows:
Round 1: 51-51-61-61-61 sc around lower edge of sleeve – that is, approx. 5-7 sc in each ch-space, and end with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row.
Round 2: ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, * ch 5, skip over 3 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 7, skip over 5 sc, 1 sc in the next sc *, repeat from * - * a total of 5-5-6-6-6 times, but replace the last sc with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row (= 10-10-12-12-12 ch-spaces).
Round 3: Sl st to the center of the first ch-space, 1 sc in ch-space, * 11 dc in the next ch-space (= 7 ch-spaces), 1 sc in the next ch-space (= 5 ch-spaces) *, repeat from * - * a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 11 dc in the last ch-space and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row (= 5-5-6-6-6 dc-groups).
Round 4: Sl st to the 3rd dc in the dc-group, ch 4, * 1 dc in the next dc, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * a total of 5 times, 1 dc in the next dc, ** 1 dc in 3rd dc of dc-group, (ch 1, 1 dc in the next dc), repeat ( ) a total of 6 times **, repeat from ** - ** a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times, end with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at start of row.
Round 5: 1 picot = ch 3, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from hook. * ch 1, 1 sc in first ch, (1 picot, 1 sc in the next ch), repeat ( ) a total of 5 times, ch 1, 1 sc between dc-group *, repeat from * - * a total of 5-5-6-6-6 times, end with ch 1 and 1 sl st in 1st ch at start of row.
Round 6: ch 5, * 1 sc in 2nd picot of dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th picot in the same dc-group, ch 5 *, repeat from * - * a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 1 sc in 2nd picot of dc-group, ch 7, 1 sc in 4th picot in the same dc-group, ch 3 and 1 sl st in 2nd ch at start of row (= 10-10-12-12-12 ch-spaces).
Round 7: ch 3, 1 sc in first sc, * ch 7, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 5, 1 sc in the next sc *, repeat from * - * a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with ch 7, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 3 and 1 sl st in 1st ch at start of row.
Round 8: ch 3, 1 sc in the next sc, * ch 7, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 5, 1 sc in the next sc *, repeat from * - * a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with ch 7, 1 sc in the next sc, ch 3 and 1 sl st in 1st ch at start of row.
Repeat Rounds 3 to 8 another 3 times. On round 3 do not sl st to the center of the first ch-space.
Then crochet Rounds 3 to 5 one more time – the cuff measures approx. 22 cm.
Left button band: Crochet 4 rows as follows: * 1 dc, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * over all sts along left front. There will be approx. 2 dc in each ch-space and 1 dc between each space = approx. 52-62 dc with 1 ch between each, turn each row with ch 4.
Right button band: Crochet the same as the left, after the 2nd row make 3 buttonholes evenly distributed at the top of buttonband. The top buttonhole should be 2 dc from edge and the others with approx. 6 dc between each. 1 buttonhole = ch 2, skip over 1 ch, 1 dc in the next ch. On the next row crochet 2 dc in the ch 2 with 1 ch between each.
Neckband: Crochet 2 rows with * 1 dc, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * around the neck (incl. over buttonbands) – crochet approx. 2 dc in each space and 1 dc between each space – be careful not to make the edge too tight or too loose.
Then crochet 1 row with sc and picots as follows: 1 picot = ch 3, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Crochet 1 sc in first ch, 1 picot, 1 sc in the same ch, * 1 sc in each of the2 following ch, 1 sc in the next ch, 1 picot, 1 sc in the same ch-space *, repeat from * - * across row, cut yarn.
Sew on buttons.




CROCHETED TOP IN COTTON VISCOSE:

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 74-86-92-102-114 cm [29 1/8" - 33 7/8" - 36.25" - 40 1/8" - 44 7/8"]
Hem: 62-74-80-92-102 cm [24 3/8" - 29 1/8" - 31.5" - 36.25" - 40 1/8"]
The measurements seem a little small, but the garment will be very stretchy, so make your usual size.

Materials: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 gr nr 17, beige

DROPS 3.5 mm [US D] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Crochet gauge:
Ch-spaces: approx. 3.5 ch-spaces wide and 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Double crochet: 14 dc wide with 1 ch between each and 14 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet info (for diagr. 3): At the start of each row replace 1 dc + 1 ch with ch 4.

Measuring-tips: Make all measurements when the piece is lying flat.

Pattern: See chart. Use the chart on the lower right (Diag. 2 and Diag. 3).

Front:
Ch 96-112-120-136-152. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 sc in 16th ch from hook, * ch 7, skip over 7 ch, 1 sc in the next ch *, repeat from * * = 11-13-14-16-18 ch-spaces, turn the work.
Then crochet all rows as follows: ch 8, 1 sc in 4th ch in first ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch, * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th ch on the next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch *, repeat from * - * across row, turn the work. Continue in this manner – see diagr.2.
When the piece measures 10 cm increase 1 space at each side by making 1 extra space in the next to last space at each side = 13-15-16-18-20 ch-spaces on row. When the piece measures 26 cm crochet the next row as follows (right side row) – see diagr.3:
ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), then 3 dc in each of the large ch-spaces and 1 dc in each of the small ch-spaces, with 1 ch between each dc. Finish with 3 dc in the last ch-space = 52-60-64-72-80 dc on row with 1 ch between each, turn the work. Now crochet as follows: ch 4, * 1 dc in next ch, 1 ch *, repeat from * - * and finish with 1 dc in last ch. Count to be sure you still have the same number of dc on the row.
Read the entire section before crocheting:
Armhole: When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole at each side as follows: crochet to last 5-7-8-8-8 dc at end of row, turn the work. Continue with dc and 1 ch between each and repeat bind off at the other side, turn the work.
Then sl st in each of the 2-3-3-4-4 first ch, continue with dc and 1 ch between each to last 2-3-3-4-4 dc, turn the work. Armhole bind off is complete for Sizes XS + S/M + M/L.
Continue to bind off for size XL as follows: sl st in the first 2 ch, continue with dc and 1 ch between each to last 2 dc on row, turn piece and continue as before.
Continue to bind off for Size XXL as follows: sl st in the first 3 ch, continue with dc and 1 ch between each to last 3 dc on row, turn the work, sl st in each of the first 2 ch, continue with dc and 1 ch between each to last 2 dc on row, turn the work.
Armhole bind off is complete for all Sizes and there are 41-43-45-48-51 dc on row. Continue as before.
Neckband: When the piece measures 38-40-42-44-46 cm bind off for the neck as follows (right side row): 10-10-11-12-13 dc with 1 ch between each, turn the work, sl st in the first ch, ch 4, crochet same as before across row, turn the work. Crochet dc with 1 ch between each to last dc, turn piece and crochet as before. There are now 8-8-9-10-11 dc on strap. Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm and place a marker (= center of shoulder). Continue until strap measures 10 cm from the marker. Now inc at the side for the neck by crocheting 1 extra dc with 1 ch between in the outermost ch, turn piece and crochet back. Turn the work, crochet back and inc 1 dc more on the same side = 10-10-11-12-13 dc on row, cut yarn. Repeat on the other side of neck.

Back: Cast on and crochet the same as the front. Bind off for armhole as on front and continue until the piece measures 42-44-46-48-50 cm, cut yarn.

Assembly: Sew side seams. Sew straps at each side on back.

Picot-edge: Crochet one row with picot around armhole and neck as follows: 1 sc in ch-space, * 1 sc in the next ch-space, ch 3, 1 sc in 1st ch from hook, 1 sc in the same ch-space, 1 sc in the next ch-space *, repeat from * - * and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 28.06.2010
Back: ... 1-1-1-2-2 ch-loops bound off at each side = 12-13-14-14-16 ch-loops remain on row.
Continue until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm, then bind off for the neck by crocheting 2 rows over only 4-5-5-5-5 ch-loops at each shoulder (do not crochet over the center 4-3-4-4-6 ch-loops). The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut yarn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch 1
= 1 sc
= 1 dc
= 1 sl st

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 81-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Netty 28.07.2020 - 19:04:

Ik ben geen spammer, maar heb wel een vraag bij model 81-22 het gehaakte vest. Manchet 3e en 4e toer Ga met hv naar het midden van het boogje, hoeveel hv? En dan een v in hetzelfde boogje 11 v in het volgende boogje, hoe? Toer 4 hv naar de 3e v, hoeveel? En ik zou graag weten over welke v-groepjes het gaat in toer 3? Ik snap het niet goed, terwijl ik met het vest geen moeite had.

DROPS Design 02.08.2020 kl. 20:51:

Dag Netty,

Je haakt zoveel halve vasten als nodig is om tot het midden van het boogje te komen en daarna haak je 11 vasten in het volgende boogje. Dus je steekt den haaknaald door het volgende boogje om te beginnen met de eerste vaste. Elke serie vasten die je in een boogje haakt is een v-groep.

Netty 28.07.2020 - 18:58:

Dag, ik ben bezig met model 81-22 en moet nu de manchetten haken, maar ik kom er niet uit: er staat : ga met hv naar het midden van het eerste l-boogje. Hoeveel hv? En dan een v. Moet die in hetzelfde boogje? En meteen 11 l in het volgende boogie hoe doe je dat? Vervolgens toer 4 hv naar de 3e v in de v-groep? Ik zie geen v-groep. Vest was geen probleem, maar bij de manchet gaat het nu mis Graag uitleg, hartelijk dank

VITTORIA 24.03.2020 - 17:43:

POTETE CONSIGLIARMI, PER CORTESIA UN FILO ALTERNATIVO IN COTONE, CHE NON SIA IL SAFRAN COME PROPOSTO NELLA SCHEDA DEI FILI ALTERNATIVI. IL SAFRAN NON LO LAVORO VOLENTIERI, PREFERIREI QUALCOSA DI PIU' FINE E COMUNQUE DA LAVORARE CON UNCINETTO 3,5 COME RICHIESTO IN QUESTO MODELLO GRAZIE E CORDIALI SALUTI VITTORIA

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 22:14:

Buongiorno Vittoria. Può usare Drops Loves you 7 oppure 9, sempre del gruppo filati A. Il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia è a disposizione per ulteriori consigli. Buon lavoro!

Mabel 14.01.2020 - 06:08:

Before starting, I'd just like to know : is this project worked top down or bottom up? Thanks much

DROPS Design 14.01.2020 kl. 08:06:

Dear Mabel, back and front pieces are worked here bottom up. First part of sleeve is worked bottom up, then cuff is worked top down. Happy crocheting!

Bonnie 31.05.2019 - 01:13:

Am I missing something? I have checked US terms, yet almost everything is shown in UK terms. Is there a way we can have it all in US terms when we check that? The conversion chart is very confusing for me.

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 09:57:

Dear Bonnie, make sure you choose the appropriate language by selecting "English (US/in)" on the scroll down menu below picture. Happy crocheting!

Ivar Schotanus 22.03.2019 - 11:37:

Mooie vrouw

Amandine 22.01.2019 - 19:59:

Bonjour, pourriez-vous ajouter un diagramme pour les explications des poignets ? J’ai du mal à les réaliser. Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Amandine, nous n'avons pas de diagramme pour les poignets, suivez bien les indications maille après maille, rang après rang. N'hésitez pas à ajouter des marqueurs entre les parties à répéter pour bien les visualiser. Bon crochet!

Odette 15.06.2018 - 20:06:

Ik begrijp niet goed waarom die 4 losse moeten bij toer 4 vd manchetten. Als ik die haak krijg ik 1x een boogje in de toer. Die 4l wordt niet herhaald. Toer 4: hv naar de 3e v in de v-groep, 4 l, * 1 v in de volgende v, 1 l *, herhaal van * - * in totaal 5 keer, 1 v in de volgende v, ** 1 v in de 3e v van de v-groep, (1 l, 1 v in de volgende v), herhaal ( ) in totaal 6 keer **, herhaal van ** - ** in totaal 4-4-5-5-5 keer, eindig met 1 hv in de 3e l van het begin van de tr.

Chi 03.06.2018 - 21:23:

Can you please explain the instruction for top "when the piece measures 10 cm increase 1 space at each side by making 1 extra space in the next to last space at each side?" Thank you in advance.

DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 09:35:

Dear Chi, work first ch-space at the beg of row as before, then work 2 ch-spaces in the 2nd ch-space on row (= crochet a total of 2 times in the same ch-space: ch 7, 1 sc in 4th ch in the next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch), then continue as before until 2 ch-spaces remain before end of row, work 2 ch-spaces in the next ch-space and finish row as before. Happy crocheting!

Donna 14.05.2018 - 17:49:

Thank you very much for your last answer. I would really love to make this beautiful cardigan so I am wondering if you could clarify the following: work 2 (= work * ch 7, 1 sc in 4th ch in the next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in the same ch * a total of 2 times) do you this twice in the same check 2 space? Will it even out in following rows? When I do this it looks extremely crowded in that one chain to space and seems confusing.

DROPS Design 15.05.2018 kl. 08:29:

Dear Donna, you need to increase one large ch-space on each side, you will crochet 2 large ch-spaces in the 2nd ch-space from beg of row and in the next to last ch-space at the end of row = you will have 2 more large ch-spaces on row. Happy crocheting!

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