DROPS / 85 / 2

Of The Sea by DROPS Design

Men's knitted sweater with raglan and rib in DROPS Alaska, and scarf with English rib in DROPS Eskimo. Size: 12 years - XXL

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SWEATER:
Sizes: 12/14 years - S/M - L - XL/XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest: 98-112-128-142 cm
Hem: 94-108-122-136 cm

The pullover will be smaller than shown on the diagram before blocking due to the rib pattern.

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
650-800-950-1050 gr nr 04, grey

DROPS 5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.


SCARF:
Measurements: approx. 18 x 150 cm

Materials:
Garnstudio ESKIMO
150 gr nr 14, charcoal grey

DROPS 12 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 7 sts in English rib = approx. 10 cm in width.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.25 £ /50g
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.25 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SWEATER
Decreasing tips (for raglan): Dec as follows from right side:
Start 4 sts before the marker: K 2 tog, K 4 (the marker is in the center of these 4 sts), slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows from wrong side:
Start 4 sts before the marker: P 2 tog, twisting sts, P 4 (the marker is in the center of these 4 sts), P 2 tog. (If it is too difficult to twist the sts, sl them, return to left needle 1 by 1, twisting each, and then P 2 tog).

BODY
Cast on 160-184-208-232 sts on circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, then establish rib as follows: P 1, *K 6, P 6*, repeat from *-* over 72-84-96-108 sts, K 6, P 1, place a marker (= side), P 1, *K 6, P 6*, repeat from *-* over 72-84-96-108 sts, K 6, P 1. Continue the rib as established. When the piece measures 10-15-15-15 cm and 20-30-30-30 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker – P the increased sts – = 168-192-216-240 sts. When the piece measures 32-40-41-42 cm bind off 12 sts at each side for armhole (= K 3, P 6, K 3) = 72-84-96-108 sts remain on Front and Back. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 48-48-60-60 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, then knit rib (P 3, K 3) over all sts. When the piece measures 8-10-10-10 cm, change to * K 6, P 6 * rib as on Body – start at marker with P 3 so that the marker is centered in a P 6. When the piece measures 10-13-13-11 cm inc 1 st on both sides of the P 6 containing the marker every 3-3-3-3.5 cm a total of 12 times (knit the increased sts in the rib as you go along, i.e P first 6 inc sts, K next 6 sts) = 72-72-84-84 sts. When the piece measures 47-49-50-52 cm bind off 6 sts each side of marker = 60-60-72-72 sts remain. Lay piece aside and knit a second sleeve.


Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 264-288-336-360 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 0-1-1-1 row before raglan shaping begins.

Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of all markers (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above. Dec every other row 21-24-20-25 times and every row 3-0-10-5 times.
At the same time when the piece measures 49-59-61-64 cm put the 8-20-20-32 sts at center front on a st holder for the neck and knit back and forth. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times.
After all raglan and neck shaping is complete 56-68-68-80 sts remain and the piece measures approx. 56-66-68-71 cm to shoulder.

Neckband: Pick up approx. 16 sts for smallest size, 28 to 40 sts for other sizes at front neck (incl. sts on st holder) = 72 sts for smallest size, 96 to 120 sts for other sizes; join and place a marker at the join. P 1 row, K 1 row and P 1 row, then K 1 row, decreasing evenly distributed to 72-84-90-96 sts. Then knit rib (K 3, P 3) until the collar measures 10-10-12-12 cm. Bind off in rib. Fold the rib in half to wrong side and stitch in place.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.


SCARF:
English rib:
Row 1 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *K 1, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 2 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K tog the next st and yo from previous row*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 3 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st), *K tog the next st and yo from previous row, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts + yo from previous row, K tog the next st and yo, K 1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 over all sts.

Scarf: Loosely cast on 13 sts and knit English rib – see instructions above. Bind off when the piece measures approx 150 cm.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 85-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (77)

Stefanie 14.02.2020 - 11:11:

Ich verstehe die Zunahme an der unteren Ärmelmitte leider gar nicht. Wenn ich die Runde mit 3 M li anfange, wo nehme ich dann zu und li oder re M. Am Ende der Runde habe ich ebenfalls 3 M li, wo nehme ich da zu und li oder re M? Wenn ich alle li zunehme habe ich am Ende 18 M li. Aber abketten soll ich doch 3 re, 6 li, 3 re. Oder?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 14:02:

Liebe Stefanie, die Zunahmen sollen im Rippenmuster gestrickt werden, dh mitte unter der Ärmel wird das Rippenmuster nicht zusammenpassen, aber die neuen Maschen werden nach und nach im Rippenmuster gestrickt, dh Runde beginnt mit 3 M li. Die 3 ersten Zunahmen werden li gestrickt, dann werden die nächsten die 6 nächsten Zunahmmen rechts gestrickt, usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marie Lefebvre 11.03.2019 - 23:29:

Désolée j'ai mis mais yeux de femmes et j'ai vu que l'on doit répéter l'augmentation à 30cm

Marie Lefebvre 11.03.2019 - 23:15:

Pour la taille s/M vous dites d'augmenter à 15 cm de hauteur 1m de chaque côté des marqueurs =188. Il manque donc une autre série d'augmentation pour arriver à 192 tel qu'indiqué dans les explications .

Kari Ubeda 12.01.2019 - 10:38:

Vil strikke med Nord, to tråder, hvilken str.må jeg velge som tilsvarer s/m i eskimogarnet i oppskriften ? Og hvor mye garn av Nord må jeg kjøpe ?

DROPS Design 16.01.2019 kl. 08:41:

Hei Kari. Om det er genseren du vil strikke, så strikkes denne i Alaska, det er skjerfet som strikkes i Eskimo. Det skal gå helt fint å strikke genseren i 2 tråder Nord i steden, og følge oppskriftene og størrelsene som anvist. Vi anbefaler likevel at du strikker en prøvelapp så du er sikker på at strikkefastheten din stemmer overens med den som er angitt (17 m x 22 p på p 5 og glstrikk = 10 x 10 cm). Du kan bruke garnkalkulatoren vår for å regne ut hvor mye Nord du trenger å kjøpe. Fyll inn garnmengden i din størrelse, og Alaska, så kommer det opp. God fornøyelse

Christel 25.10.2017 - 18:12:

Rebonjour. Vraiment je suis bloquée. J’ai commencé le rang (en diminuant pour les raglans)puis mis les 20 mailles de côté pour l’encolure(taille L). Je ne sais pas si pour l’aller-Retour je dois couper le fils et continuer devant ou si je dois tourner mon travail et continuer en sens inverse. Je suis vraiment bloqué je ne trouve aucune vidéo explicative à ce sujet. Merci

DROPS Design 26.10.2017 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Christel, quand les mailles de l'encolure devant sont en attente, continuez en allers et retours: tricotez le rang à partir des mailles de l'encolure jusqu'aux dernières mailles côté encolure de l'autre côté, tournez et tricotez le rang retour. Continuez bien les diminutions du raglan, et en même temps, au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure (= des 2 côtés), rabattez 1 fois 2 m et 2 fois 1 m. Bon tricot!

Christel 11.10.2017 - 19:21:

Bonjour, Je me permets encore une fois de poser une question. Pour l’encolure Vous dites de diminué de chaque côté (1fois 2 m et 2 fois une maille). Je ne comprends pas comment faire lés diminutions. Merci beaucoup pour votre aide

DROPS Design 12.10.2017 kl. 09:21:

Bonjour Christel, après avoir mis les mailles du milieu devant en attente, vous continuez en allers et retours - les rangs commencent maintenant d'un côté de l'encolure devant - en rabattant au début de chaque rang de chaque côté (= sur l'endroit et sur l'envers): 1 x 2 m et 2 x 1 m. Vous avez ainsi rabattu 4 m de chaque côté de l'encolure, avant et après les mailles en attente. Bon tricot!

Christel 03.10.2017 - 15:36:

Bonjour. J’arrive à l’empiecement et il est écrit de mettre les 20 mailles centrales sur un arrêt de mailles(taille L). De quelles mailles centrales parlez vous? Celles du devant ou celle du dos? Ou l’es deux ?

DROPS Design 03.10.2017 kl. 15:42:

Bonjour Christel, ce sont les mailles du milieu devant que l'on va mettre en attente pour l'encolure (mention ajoutée), continuez ensuite en allers et retours en rabattant pour l'encolure de chaque côté comme indiqué, et continuez les diminutions du raglan. Bon tricot!

Cheryl 27.01.2017 - 23:53:

Would anyone have a picture of the sleeve increases they could post.

DROPS Design 30.01.2017 kl. 10:44:

Dear Chery, you cannot post any picture here. For the sleeves you have to inc on each side of the mid P6 sts under sleeve and just inc to keep ribbing matching around (K3/P3). Happy knitting!

Debra Brown 16.12.2016 - 07:16:

Hello. I have a question about the neckline shaping. I am knitting size Large. At the end of the raglan and neck shaping, the pattern says that I should have 68 stitches total. Does this include the 20 stitches at the front placed on a stitch holder? Then the pattern says that when I pick up the stitches on the holder I should have more than 90 stitches total. How is this possible, if I only have 68 stitches at the end of the raglan and neck shaping?

DROPS Design 16.12.2016 kl. 09:43:

Dear Mrs Brown, there should be 68 sts left after all dec for raglan and neck shaping, then pick up sts along front piece: 20 sts on a st holder + pick up sts along both side of these sts (the cast off sts on each side) = you should have approx. 96-120 sts. P1 round, K1 round, P 1 round and on next K round dec evenly to adjust number of sts to 90 sts (in size L) then work ribbing over these 90 sts. Happy knitting!

Julie Côté 04.10.2016 - 02:46:

Excusez-moi encore, mais les augmentations ce font tout les ( cm ) selon la grandeur choisi c'est bien cela ?

DROPS Design 04.10.2016 kl. 10:02:

Bonjour Mme Côté, tout à fait, vous augmentez tous les 3 cm dans les 3 premières tailles, et tous les 3,5 cm dans la plus grande taille (manches). Bon tricot!

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