Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Of The Sea |
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Men's knitted sweater with raglan and rib in DROPS Alaska, and scarf with English rib in DROPS Snow. Size: 12 years - XXL
DROPS 85-2 |
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SWEATER Decreasing tips (for raglan): Dec as follows from right side: Start 4 sts before the marker: K 2 tog, K 4 (the marker is in the center of these 4 sts), slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso. Dec as follows from wrong side: Start 4 sts before the marker: P 2 tog, twisting sts, P 4 (the marker is in the center of these 4 sts), P 2 tog. (If it is too difficult to twist the sts, sl them, return to left needle 1 by 1, twisting each, and then P 2 tog). BODY Cast on 160-184-208-232 sts on circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, then establish rib as follows: P 1, *K 6, P 6*, repeat from *-* over 72-84-96-108 sts, K 6, P 1, place a marker (= side), P 1, *K 6, P 6*, repeat from *-* over 72-84-96-108 sts, K 6, P 1. Continue the rib as established. When the piece measures 10-15-15-15 cm and 20-30-30-30 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker – P the increased sts – = 168-192-216-240 sts. When the piece measures 32-40-41-42 cm bind off 12 sts at each side for armhole (= K 3, P 6, K 3) = 72-84-96-108 sts remain on Front and Back. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves. Sleeve: Cast on 48-48-60-60 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows stockinette st, then knit rib (P 3, K 3) over all sts. When the piece measures 8-10-10-10 cm, change to * K 6, P 6 * rib as on Body – start at marker with P 3 so that the marker is centered in a P 6. When the piece measures 10-13-13-11 cm inc 1 st on both sides of the P 6 containing the marker every 3-3-3-3.5 cm a total of 12 times (knit the increased sts in the rib as you go along, i.e P first 6 inc sts, K next 6 sts) = 72-72-84-84 sts. When the piece measures 47-49-50-52 cm bind off 6 sts each side of marker = 60-60-72-72 sts remain. Lay piece aside and knit a second sleeve. Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 264-288-336-360 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 0-1-1-1 row before raglan shaping begins. Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of all markers (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above. Dec every other row 21-24-20-25 times and every row 3-0-10-5 times. At the same time when the piece measures 49-59-61-64 cm put the 8-20-20-32 sts at center front on a st holder for the neck and knit back and forth. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. After all raglan and neck shaping is complete 56-68-68-80 sts remain and the piece measures approx. 56-66-68-71 cm to shoulder. Neckband: Pick up approx. 16 sts for smallest size, 28 to 40 sts for other sizes at front neck (incl. sts on st holder) = 72 sts for smallest size, 96 to 120 sts for other sizes; join and place a marker at the join. P 1 row, K 1 row and P 1 row, then K 1 row, decreasing evenly distributed to 72-84-90-96 sts. Then knit rib (K 3, P 3) until the collar measures 10-10-12-12 cm. Bind off in rib. Fold the rib in half to wrong side and stitch in place. Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve. SCARF: English rib: Row 1 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *K 1, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, K 2. Row 2 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), *yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K tog the next st and yo from previous row*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts, yo, sl 1 as if to purl, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). Row 3 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st), *K tog the next st and yo from previous row, yo, sl 1 as if to purl*, repeat *-* to last 2 sts + yo from previous row, K tog the next st and yo, K 1. Repeat rows 2 and 3 over all sts. Scarf: Loosely cast on 13 sts and knit English rib – see instructions above. Bind off when the piece measures approx 150 cm. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (92)
Jasmine wrote:
I have read and reread the instruction for the sleeves. and for the life of me i don't get it. if you could tell me stitch by stitch i would get it a lot easier. example inc p3 k around in pattern. or p3 inc. i'm not getting at all how this ribbing works with the increases. help please
18.12.2014 - 00:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jasmine, you will keep P6 mid under sleeve and will inc either side of these P6 to continue ribbing around the sleeve, ie P first 6 inc each side (you will then get P18 mid under sleeve), then K next 6 inc each side(you will get P6,K6,P6(mid under arm),K6,P6 when all next K6 inc are done) and so on. Happy knitting!
18.12.2014 - 09:03Sylvie Rheaume wrote:
Bonjour, Dans la section empiècement vous nous dite ; En même temps, a (dans mon cas) 59 cm de hauteur total, mettre en attente, 20 m centrales sur un arrêt de maille pour l'encolure. C'est 59 cm de hauteur de la manche ou du corp dois-je prendre?
13.12.2014 - 16:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Rheaume, on mesure ici la hauteur totale depuis le bas du pull (rang de montage) au milieu devant - le pull mesure 66 cm de hauteur totale du bas jusqu'à l'épaule quand il est terminé (en taille S/M). Bon tricot!
13.12.2014 - 18:37Giada wrote:
Ciao, sto lavorando il corpo della taglia M di questo maglione. Quanto arrivo a questo punto "Quando il lavoro misura 10-15-15-15 cm e 20-30-30-30 cm aumentare 1 m a ogni lato di ogni segnapunti – lavorare a rov gli aumenti = 168-192-216-240 m" non capisco questo passaggio, dice due volte quando si arriva a 15 cm e 30 cm fare gli aumenti. Mi potete dare una mano? Grazie :-)
09.12.2014 - 12:35DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Giada. Quando il lavoro misura 15 cm, aumenta 1 m a ogni lato di ogni segnapunti; ripete poi questi aumenti quando il lavoro misura 30 cm. Completati gli aumenti, sui ferri avrà 192 m. Buon lavoro!
09.12.2014 - 12:57Anita wrote:
I've read the pattern and the questions raised about the increase in the sleeves and I still do not understand. If you increase either side of the middle p6 you then have p8. do you then increase like that until you have p12 and then with each further increase, make the middle stitches k stitches?
26.11.2014 - 22:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Anita, you inc either side of the mid P6 under sleeve in rib, to get K6/P6 all around the sleeve when all inc are done, you will then have after the first 6 inc you will have under the sleeve P6 (6 inc sts), P6 (mid under sleeve), P6 (6 inc sts), then K the next 6 inc to get: P6, K6 (new 6 inc sts), P6 (mid under sleeve), K6 (new 6 inc sts), P6. Happy knitting!
27.11.2014 - 09:22Helena wrote:
Dobrý den, chtěla bych se zeptat, jaká délka kruhových jehlic znacky Drops je ideální pro pletení tohoho svetru ve velikosti S/M. Děkuji Helena
22.11.2014 - 17:41DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Heleno, nejvhodnější jsou kruhové jehlice délky 80 cm. Hodně zdaru! Hana
22.11.2014 - 22:43Mary-Lou wrote:
Why the 12/14 years? when it's an male adult What is the difference?
03.10.2014 - 18:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mary-Lou, this pattern is written for a smaller size too (child) - you will find all measurements for each size in the measurement chart at the end of the pattern. Compare these to a similar garment to find out the matching size. Convert here cm into inches. Happy knitting!
04.10.2014 - 17:18Birgit Ludwig wrote:
Gibt es zu diesen Herren Pulloover auch eine Anleitung in Größe 50 (M)? Würde mich sehr darüber freuen. Welche Farbnummer hat dieser Pullover und wie viel wird für Gr. 50 benötigt. Mfg. Ludwig
27.09.2014 - 19:27DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Ludwig, die verfügbaren Größen sehen Sie oben im Kopf: (12/14 Jahre) S/M - L - XL/XXL, d.h. in der Anleitung beschreibt die Zahl in der Klammer den Pullover für die Kindergröße und die anderen Zahlen beschreiben den Pullover für die jeweilige Herrengröße. Welche Maße zu der jeweiligen Größe gehören, können Sie der Schnittzeichung entnehmen, dort sind die Maße in derselben Reihenfolge aufgeführt.
28.09.2014 - 11:14Julie wrote:
Bonjour. La taille est indiqué seulement en 12/14 ans,comment savoir pour la grandeur en centimètre ?. Merci. Julie
05.04.2014 - 22:40DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Julie, vous trouverez à la fin des explications un schéma avec toutes les mesures pour chaque taille. Ces mesures sont prises à plat, d'un côté à l'autre. Pour la taille 12/14 ans, ce sont les premiers nombres. Bon tricot!
07.04.2014 - 09:55Sabine wrote:
Hallo, Könnte man dieses Modell auch in Cotton Merino stricken?
23.03.2014 - 09:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Sabine, Alaska gehört zu Garngruppe C, Cotton Merino zu Gruppe B. Innerhalb der Gruppe C können Sie Alaska gut ersetzen (ggf. ist der Verbrauch anders). Auch eine andere Garngruppe kann jedoch ggf. passen, Sie müssen dafür aber unbedingt die Maschenprobe einhalten. Cotton Merino ist dünner als Alaska, daher ergibt sich ein lockereres Strickbild, der Pullover fällt dadurch insgesamt lockerer. Probieren Sie am besten an einem Probestück aus, wie es Ihnen gefällt.
23.03.2014 - 12:18Mona wrote:
Hallo, ich habe Mühe mit dem Halsausschnitt, warum Maschen stilllegen und dann noch abnehmen gegen den Hals hin und dann heisst es noch " auch Maschen vom Hilfsfaden", ich versteh leider nur Bahnhof, kann mir jemand helfen???? Vielen Dank
27.01.2014 - 15:05DROPS Design answered:
Liebe MOna, wir haben diese ABschnitt neu formuliert und hoffen, dass es jetzt klarer ist. Grundsätzlich werden für die Halsblende aus den abgeketteten Maschen neue Maschen aufgefasst und die stillgelegten wieder anktiviert.
28.01.2014 - 07:51