DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Olive wood No. 511

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

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Winter Swirl Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern with large stars, I-cord and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 254-28

#winterswirlcardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-512
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 18, morning mist
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 10, fog
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 34, pink marble
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 36, light blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 55, light beige

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 511: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height, with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern on needle size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

BANDS WITH I-CORD
BEGINNING OF ROW:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 5 garter stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work until there are 7 stitches left on the row, work 5 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
Work in the same way from both the right and wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row.
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck is finished. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with 9-9½-10-8-8½-9 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g., 105 stitches) minus bands (e.g., 14 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g., 20) = 4.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side. The pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
To avoid the knitting tension losing its elasticity when working colour-pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a larger size needle when working pattern if the piece becomes tight.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as follows:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 with background colour (marker sits in this stitch), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The double neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
The neck is folded to the inside and sewn down.

NECK:
Cast on 93-97-101-107-111-117 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and colour morning mist DROPS Air. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm (casting on with a larger needle size makes the cast-on edge elastic).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (knit 1, purl 1), until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm (= neck-height when folded double later).
At the end of the next 2 rows cast on 6 band-stitches = 105-109-113-119-123-129 stitches. Continue the rib but with the outermost 7 stitches on each side worked according to BANDS WITH I-CORD – read description above.
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm – finishing after a row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside one band; the piece is now measured from here.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the first row from the right side as follows:
Work the band as before, stocking stitch across the next 91-95-99-105-109-115 stitches, increasing 20-24-26-28-28-30 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, then work the band as before – remember the first BUTTONHOLE – read description above = 125-133-139-147-151-159 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and the bands. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
When the yoke measures 2-2-2-2-2-2 cm from the marker, increase 24-28-26-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase across the bands) = 149-161-165-171-179-191 stitches.
When the yoke measures 4-4-4-4-4-4½ cm from the marker, increase 24-28-26-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase across the bands) = 173-189-191-195-207-223 stitches.
When the yoke measures 6-6-6-6-6-7 cm from the marker, increase 24-28-26-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase across the bands) = 197-217-217-219-235-255 stitches.
When the yoke measures 7-8-8-8-8-9½ cm from the marker, increase 25-28-28-26-28-32 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase across the bands) = 222-245-245-245-263-287 stitches.
These increases are finished in sizes S, M and L. Increase in the other sizes as follows:

SIZES XL, XXL AND XXXL:
When the yoke measures 10-10-12 cm from the marker, increase 23-28-27 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase across the bands) = 268-291-314 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 222-245-245-268-291-314 stitches. When the yoke measures 8-9-10-11-11-13 cm from the marker and the next row is from the right side, work PATTERN – read description above, as follows:
Work the band as before, A.1, then A.2 a total of 8-9-9-10-11-12 times, A.3 and the band as before. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagrams. Work until the yoke measures 21-22-23-24-24-26 cm from the marker. You now divide for the body and sleeves – NOTE: Adjust so that you are at a point in the pattern where you have increased 3 times in height in A.1, 5 times in each repeat of A.2 and 2 times in A.3 (i.e., 1 increase left in A.1 and A.3 and 2 increases left in A.2 – these increases are worked on the body) = 267-295-295-323-351-379 stitches. If your knitting tension is correct vertically, the piece will divide in the middle of a stripe with background colour pink marble. The pattern is finished on the body and sleeves.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work 46-51-51-54-60-65 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 49-53-53-61-63-67 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-11-11-11-11 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work 77-87-87-93-105-115 stitches (= back piece), place the next 49-53-53-61-63-67 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-11-11-11-11 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the last 46-51-51-54-60-65 stitches as before (= front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 183-203-211-223-247-267 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-11-11-11-11 cast-on stitches under each sleeve.
Continue the pattern back and forth, with 7 band-stitches on each side – NOTE: The pattern will not fit under the sleeves, work pattern as far as each marker-stitch and work the marker-stitches with the background colour.
When A.1 to A.3 are finished in height there are 195-215-223-239-263-283 stitches.
Continue with the bands and stocking stitch in colour morning mist until the piece measures 45-47-49-49-51-53 cm from the marker.
On the next row from the right side, begin the rib AT THE SAME TIME as increasing 30-34-34-38-42-46 stitches evenly spaced as follows = 225-249-257-277-305-329 stitches:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, work the band as before, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 8 stitches left, knit 1 and work band as before.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off.
The jacket measures approx. 51-53-55-56-58-60 cm from the marker and 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the top of the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 49-53-53-61-63-67 sleeve-stitches from one thread on circular needle size 5 mm. In addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-11-11-11-11 cast-on stitches under the sleeve = 56-60-64-72-74-78 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch under the sleeve; this marker is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
You now continue PATTERN and DECREASE under the sleeve. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

PATTERN:
Remember to continue the decreases. Start the round at the marker under the sleeve and continue pattern from the yoke, i.e., finish A.2 up to and including the round marked with an arrow in A.2, then work A.4 in the round – NOTE: The stars are not symmetrical on the sleeve, but the star in A.4 should be directly above the star in A.2 – The pattern will not fit under the sleeve, work pattern as far as the marker-stitch and work the marker-stitch with the background colour. When A.4 is finished in height, continue with stocking stitch and colour morning mist.

DECREASE:
When the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve- -read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 4-5-7-10-10-11 times = 48-50-50-52-54-56 stitches.

Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-40-40-38-39-37 cm from the division. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches evenly on the first round = 56-58-58-62-64-66 stitches. When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 46-46-46-45-46-44 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.
Sew together the openings on the bands with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= off white (= pattern-colour)
	= morning mist (= background colour)
	= light blue (= background colour)
	= fog (= background colour)
	= light beige (= background colour)
	= pink marble (= background colour)
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background colour, which is worked twisted on next row to avoid a hole
	= on sleeves work A.2 up to and including this round, then work A.4

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Winter Swirl Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern with large stars, I-cord and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Winter Swirl Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern with large stars, I-cord and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order