DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Button 630
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 630
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Eirin Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, V-neck and I-cord. Sizes XS - XXL.

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Highlight Size:
DROPS 252-15

#eirincardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern li-179
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-500-550-600-700 g colour 9020, pearl grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 630: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 21 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 5.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Button 630
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 630
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP -2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

INCREASE TIP -3:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is knitted/purled twisted on the next round/row to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn. This hole can be closed by tightening the strand or by using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, take the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back (2 loops on the needle). These loops are worked together on the next row.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 9.
WRONG SIDE:
Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Knit 8, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes from the right side, when there are 7 stitches left on the row.
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 3, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 1 cm after the increases for neck are finished. The 3 buttonholes with 8-8½-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders (which are slightly diagonal). The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The 2 front pieces are then worked separately. First the band then the front piece, knitting up stitches along the back shoulder and working top down, increasing AT THE SAME TIME for the neck, then the armhole and working until the armhole is finished. This is repeated on the other front piece. The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body worked back and forth. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth with short rows for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
The bands from each front piece are sewn together mid-back, then sewn to the neckline.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Lima and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 4.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 4.
AFTER ROW 3:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 11-12-12-13-13-14 times (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 rows worked), after the last increase, there are 74-78-80-84-86-90 stitches.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 11-12-11-12-11-10 cm from the marker, measured outermost along the armhole. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 4.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked) = 78-82-88-92-98-106 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm, from the marker, measured outermost along the armhole and finishing after a row from the right side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left front piece as follows.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 10 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – see description above, until the band measures 9-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now work the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left back shoulder as follows: Lay the back piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Knit up stitches along the left shoulder as follows, starting from the right side by the neck:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row, inside 1 stitch (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches along the shoulder and 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches in total.
All length measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches as before.
ROW 3 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until the piece measures 8-9-8-9-8-9 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTIONS:
You now increase, first for the V-neck then for the armhole. The armhole-increases are started before the neck-increases are finished; therefore, read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left -remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times (= 28-28-32-32-36-36 rows worked).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 10-10-10-10-10-10 rows worked).
You have increased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times for the V-neck. Continue working stocking stitch and the band without further increases.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 23-24-23-24-23-22 cm, increase for the armhole as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work 10 band stitches, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right – remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 4.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work 10 band stitches
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm, measured from the knitted-up row and finishing with a row from the right side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the right front piece as follows.

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 10 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – see description above, until the band measures 9-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up stitches along the right back shoulder as follows, starting from the right side by the shoulder:
Knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row, inside 1 stitch (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches), work the 10 band-stitches as before = 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches in total.
All length measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches as before,
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 8-9-8-9-8-9 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTIONS:
You now increase for the V-neck, then for the armhole. The armhole-increases are started before the neck-increases are finished; therefore, read both next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 11 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1, work the 10 band-stitches as before.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times (= 28-28-32-32-36-36 rows worked).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit until there are 11 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1 and 10 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 10-10-10-10-10-10 rows worked).
You have increased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times for the V-neck. Continue working stocking stitch and the band without further increases.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 23-24-23-24-23-22 cm, increase for the armhole as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 10 stitches left, 10 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm, measured from the knitted-up row and finishing with a row from the right side.
Place the back and front pieces on the same circular needle as follows. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Working from the wrong side, work the stitches from the right front piece, cast on 2-4-4-8-10-10 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the 78-82-88-92-98-106 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-4-4-8-10-10 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the stitches from the left front piece.
Work back and forth from mid-front, with stocking stitch and the bands as before, continuing the increases for the V-neck.
When the increases for the V-neck are finished, there are 174-186-198-214-230-246 stitches.
To allow the bands to lie neatly at the bottom of the V-neck, work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Tighten the strand and work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Work as before across the whole row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, turn.
ROW 5 (right side): Tighten the strand and work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 6 (wrong side): Work as before across the whole row.
Continue the body back and forth, with stocking stitch and the bands – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above, until the piece measures 26-27-28-28-29-30 cm from the join.
On the next row from the right side, begin the rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase 37-39-43-45-49-51 stitches evenly on the first row as follows (do not increase across the bands) – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 211-225-241-259-279-297 stitches:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm, work the band as before, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 11 stitches left, knit 1 and work the band as before.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off with Italian cast off or slightly loosely with rib.
The front pieces measures approx. 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm from the knitted-up row, the jacket measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (front pieces longer than back piece because the front pieces go a short way down the back piece).

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole/shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of armhole/shoulder is not the knitted-up row from the front piece but approx. 6 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 5.5 mm. Start in the middle of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve – knit up 58-64-66-76-80-84 stitches around the armhole, with equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work back and forth, with short rows for the sleeve cap (gives the sleeve a better fit), starting mid-under the sleeve as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work to 5-6-4-5-5-4 stitches past the marker on top of the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work to 5-6-4-5-5-4 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Work to 5-5-4-4-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work to 5-5-4-4-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned a total of 10-10-14-14-18-20 times (= 5-5-7-7-9-10 times on each side, with the last row from the wrong side).

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
After the turn, work to mid-under the sleeve (beginning of the round).
Insert 1 marker-thread mid-under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm measured mid-under the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease like this every 5-3½-3½-2½-2-2 cm, 7-10-10-14-15-16 times = 44-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-46-46-45-45-45 cm from the marker mid on top of shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 8-10-10-10-8-8 stitches evenly on the first round = 52-54-56-58-58-60 stitches.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off with Italian cast off or slightly loosely with rib.
The sleeve measures approx. 52-52-52-52-52-52 cm from mid-top of shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the bands together mid-back of neck and sew them to the neckline.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.11.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction in decreases on sleeves.

Diagram

diagram measurements
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Patricia TARBOURIECH wrote:

Bonjour, Merci beaucoup pour la correction. Très cordialement. Patricia

27.11.2024 - 16:37

country flag Maria wrote:

Solution for sleeve size M: decrease 10 times 2 stitches, every 7th manche.

17.11.2024 - 19:39

country flag Maria wrote:

I have the same problem described by Catherine et Stephane. The count doesn’t add up in the sleeve: from 66 to 46 stitches would take 10 times 2 decreases, instead of the described 5 (or 6) for size M. Looking forward to hear from you!

17.11.2024 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, as indicated to Catherine and Stephanie, our designers are checking the pattern right now and will correct any errors found. Once we have an answer from them we will correct the online pattern. Thank you for your patience.

17.11.2024 - 23:39

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai le même problème que Stéphanie : avec 66 mailles pour les manches au départ, je diminue 2x5 mailles(-10 m), il me reste donc 56 m... et pas 46 m, pouvez-vous me répondre?

09.11.2024 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Comme indiqué précédemment, cette question a été transmise à nos stylistes, merci d'avance pour votre patience.

11.11.2024 - 08:50

country flag Stéphanie wrote:

Bonjour Oui je parle bien des manches mais si on diminue 5x2 mailles ça fait une diminution de 10 mailles. Si on a 64 m relevées on doit avoir 54 mailles après les diminutions et non 44 !?

04.11.2024 - 13:14

DROPS Design answered:

Effectivement, j'ai transmis à nos stylistes qui vont vérifier, merci d'avance pour votre patience.

04.11.2024 - 14:43

country flag Stéphanie wrote:

Bonjour Il faut monter 64 m (taille dans laquelle je tricote) et diminuer 2 mailles 5 fois Il est noté = 44 mailles. Je ne comprends pas comment on obtient ça si on diminue 10 mailles ?

03.11.2024 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous parlez des manches, exact? En taille M, vous relevez 64 mailles autour de l'emmanchure, vous tricotez les rangs raccourcis puis, quand la manche mesure 2 cm à partir du début, mesuré sous la manche, vous diminuez 5 x 2 mailles tous les 7 cm, vous avez ainsi 44 mailles quand toutes les diminutions sont faites. Bon tricot!

04.11.2024 - 09:42

country flag Maria wrote:

Hallo, bei den Ärmelabnahmen (bei Größe M) werden 5x 2 Maschen abgenommen =46 Maschen. Wenn ursprünglich 66 Maschen sind, wären es dann nicht 56 nach den Abnahmen? Danke für ihre Hilfe

28.10.2024 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, eine Korrektur erfolgt, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

25.11.2024 - 14:34

country flag Stéphanie wrote:

Après avoir réuni le dos et les deux devants on a 182 mailles. Il est dit de continuer les augmentations pour l’encolure V jusqu’à avoir 186 mailles. Il n’y a pas d’explication sur ces augmentations.

20.10.2024 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous continuez simplement à augmenter pour l'encolure V comme vous le faisiez auparavant sur chacun des devants. Si vous aviez 182 m au moment de remettre vos mailles ensemble, il vous manque 4 mailles, soit 2 rangs d'augmentations. Bon tricot!

21.10.2024 - 09:26

country flag ÀNGELS Pratcorona wrote:

Podria ser l'explicació en Català o Castellà?

05.10.2024 - 09:38

country flag ÀNGELS Pratcorona wrote:

Podria ser l'explicació en Català o Castellà?

05.10.2024 - 09:38

Eirin Cardigan



Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, V-neck and I-cord. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 252-15
DROPS Design: Pattern li-179
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-500-550-600-700 g colour 9020, pearl grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 630: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 21 rows in height, with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality on needle size 5.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP -2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

INCREASE TIP -3:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is knitted/purled twisted on the next round/row to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn. This hole can be closed by tightening the strand or by using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, take the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back (2 loops on the needle). These loops are worked together on the next row.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 9.
WRONG SIDE:
Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Knit 8, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes from the right side, when there are 7 stitches left on the row.
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 3, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 1 cm after the increases for neck are finished. The 3 buttonholes with 8-8½-9-9-9½-10 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders (which are slightly diagonal). The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The 2 front pieces are then worked separately. First the band then the front piece, knitting up stitches along the back shoulder and working top down, increasing AT THE SAME TIME for the neck, then the armhole and working until the armhole is finished. This is repeated on the other front piece. The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body worked back and forth. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth with short rows for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
The bands from each front piece are sewn together mid-back, then sewn to the neckline.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Lima and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 4.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 4.
AFTER ROW 3:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 11-12-12-13-13-14 times (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 rows worked), after the last increase, there are 74-78-80-84-86-90 stitches.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 11-12-11-12-11-10 cm from the marker, measured outermost along the armhole. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 4.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked) = 78-82-88-92-98-106 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm, from the marker, measured outermost along the armhole and finishing after a row from the right side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left front piece as follows.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 10 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – see description above, until the band measures 9-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now work the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left back shoulder as follows: Lay the back piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Knit up stitches along the left shoulder as follows, starting from the right side by the neck:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row, inside 1 stitch (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches along the shoulder and 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches in total.
All length measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches as before.
ROW 3 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until the piece measures 8-9-8-9-8-9 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTIONS:
You now increase, first for the V-neck then for the armhole. The armhole-increases are started before the neck-increases are finished; therefore, read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left -remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times (= 28-28-32-32-36-36 rows worked).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 10-10-10-10-10-10 rows worked).
You have increased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times for the V-neck. Continue working stocking stitch and the band without further increases.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 23-24-23-24-23-22 cm, increase for the armhole as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work 10 band stitches, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right – remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 4.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl until there are 10 stitches left, work 10 band stitches
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm, measured from the knitted-up row and finishing with a row from the right side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the right front piece as follows.

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 10 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – see description above, until the band measures 9-9-9½-9½-10-10 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now work the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up stitches along the right back shoulder as follows, starting from the right side by the shoulder:
Knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row, inside 1 stitch (= 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches), work the 10 band-stitches as before = 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches in total.
All length measurements on the front piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches as before,
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 8-9-8-9-8-9 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTIONS:
You now increase for the V-neck, then for the armhole. The armhole-increases are started before the neck-increases are finished; therefore, read both next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 11 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1, work the 10 band-stitches as before.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit until there are 10 stitches left, work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times (= 28-28-32-32-36-36 rows worked).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit until there are 11 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1 and 10 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-5-5-5-5 times (= 10-10-10-10-10-10 rows worked).
You have increased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times for the V-neck. Continue working stocking stitch and the band without further increases.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 23-24-23-24-23-22 cm, increase for the armhole as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 10 stitches left, 10 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-4-4-6-8 times (= 4-4-8-8-12-16 rows worked).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm, measured from the knitted-up row and finishing with a row from the right side.
Place the back and front pieces on the same circular needle as follows. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Working from the wrong side, work the stitches from the right front piece, cast on 2-4-4-8-10-10 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the 78-82-88-92-98-106 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-4-4-8-10-10 stitches (in side mid-under sleeve), work the stitches from the left front piece.
Work back and forth from mid-front, with stocking stitch and the bands as before, continuing the increases for the V-neck.
When the increases for the V-neck are finished, there are 174-186-198-214-230-246 stitches.
To allow the bands to lie neatly at the bottom of the V-neck, work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Tighten the strand and work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Work as before across the whole row.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work the 10 band-stitches as before, turn.
ROW 5 (right side): Tighten the strand and work the 10 band-stitches.
ROW 6 (wrong side): Work as before across the whole row.
Continue the body back and forth, with stocking stitch and the bands – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above, until the piece measures 26-27-28-28-29-30 cm from the join.
On the next row from the right side, begin the rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase 37-39-43-45-49-51 stitches evenly on the first row as follows (do not increase across the bands) – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 211-225-241-259-279-297 stitches:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm, work the band as before, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 11 stitches left, knit 1 and work the band as before.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off with Italian cast off or slightly loosely with rib.
The front pieces measures approx. 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm from the knitted-up row, the jacket measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (front pieces longer than back piece because the front pieces go a short way down the back piece).

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole/shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of armhole/shoulder is not the knitted-up row from the front piece but approx. 6 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 5.5 mm. Start in the middle of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve – knit up 58-64-66-76-80-84 stitches around the armhole, with equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work back and forth, with short rows for the sleeve cap (gives the sleeve a better fit), starting mid-under the sleeve as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work to 5-6-4-5-5-4 stitches past the marker on top of the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work to 5-6-4-5-5-4 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Work to 5-5-4-4-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work to 5-5-4-4-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned a total of 10-10-14-14-18-20 times (= 5-5-7-7-9-10 times on each side, with the last row from the wrong side).

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
After the turn, work to mid-under the sleeve (beginning of the round).
Insert 1 marker-thread mid-under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm measured mid-under the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease like this every 5-3½-3½-2½-2-2 cm, 7-10-10-14-15-16 times = 44-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-46-46-45-45-45 cm from the marker mid on top of shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1), AT THE SAME TIME increase 8-10-10-10-8-8 stitches evenly on the first round = 52-54-56-58-58-60 stitches.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off with Italian cast off or slightly loosely with rib.
The sleeve measures approx. 52-52-52-52-52-52 cm from mid-top of shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the bands together mid-back of neck and sew them to the neckline.

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