DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.25 £ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

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Crossed Path Cardigan

Knitted oversized jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted top down with diagonal / European shoulder, V-neck and I-cord. Size XS – XXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 252-18

#crossedpathcardigan

DROPS design: Pattern ml-113
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS MELODY Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 03, pearl grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 629: 4 pieces for all sizes

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch on needle size 8 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT - from right side:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT - from right side:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT - from wrong side:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT - from wrong side:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
WRONG SIDE:
5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1, work 5 stitches in garter stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 5 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, work the rest of row as before. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole 1 cm after last increase for V-neck, then decrease for the next 3 buttonholes approx. 10½-10½-11-11-11-11½ cm apart. Decrease for last buttonhole in transition between body and rib.

KNITTING TIP:
When working short row there will be a small hole when turning the piece - the hole can be closed by tightening the yarn or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip first stitch purlwise. Place strand over right needle , and tighten well at the back (should lead to two loops on needle). Work these loops together on next row.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Begin by casting on stitches in the back of neck. Then work back piece downwards while AT THE SAME TIME increasing in each side of piece until number of stitches for shoulder width is reached. Back piece has a slight diagonal shoulder. Then work down to armholes. Now put back piece aside and work the front pieces.
On front pieces work first a band that is sewn to neck during assembly, then for front piece by picking up stitches along one shoulder from back piece.
Work downwards to armhole while at the same time increasing towards the neck. Repeat on the other shoulder. At the armholes slip front pieces and back piece on to same circular needle and work body downwards back and forth on circular needle. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes and work sleeves downwards. First work back and forth with short rows to form a sleeve cap, then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Sew bands from each front piece together, seam = mid back, fasten band to stitches around the neck.

BACK PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 22-24-26-26-28-28 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm with DROPS Melody.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl all stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1 and knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2 and purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 3.
AFTER 3RD ROW:
Work 2nd and 3rd ROW 11-12-13-13-14-15 times in total (= 22-24-26-26-28-30 rows have been worked), after increase there are = 66-72-78-78-84-88 stitches on needle.
Insert 1 marker in the side. Now measure piece from here!
Continue in stocking stitch - remember to follow the knitting tension - until piece measures 9-10-11-11-11-12 cm measured from marker along armhole. Now increase in each side for armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1 and knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl all stitches.
Work 1st. and 2nd ROW 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total (= 4-4-4-6-6-6 rows have been worked) = 70-76-82-86-90-94 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 12-13-14-15-15-16 cm, measured from marker along armhole, finish with a row from right side. Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, now work left front piece along the left shoulder from back piece - read explanation below.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm, finish with a row from wrong side, then continue as explained below left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find left shoulder on back piece as follows: Place back piece flat with right side up, place back piece so that stitches on thread/stitch holder is towards you, left side of piece = left shoulder.
Now pick up stitches along left diagonal shoulder on back piece - begin from right side at the neck and pick up stitches out towards the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): First work the 7 stitches from band, then pick up 1 stitch in every worked row inside outermost stitch (pick up 22-24-26-26-28-30 stitches from back piece) = 29-31-33-33-35-37 stitches.
All length measurements on front piece are done from pick up edge.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches as before.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches as before, knit the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches.
Work 3rd and 4th ROW until piece measures 8 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now increase for V-neck, increase also in the side towards the armhole. Increases in the side begins before increases for V-neck are done, thus read both of the next 2 sections before continuing to get an overview of when the increase for armholes begin.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches as before, knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, and knit the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches.
Work 1st and 2nd ROW 11-12-13-13-14-14 times in total (= 22-24-26-26-28-28 rows worked).
11-12-13-13-14-14 increases have been done in total for V-neck. Then continue with stocking stitch and band stitches as before.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
When piece measures 23-24-25-25-27-28 cm, increase in the side as towards armhole follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, work until 3 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch towards the right - read INCREASE-TIP-1, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches.
Work 1st and 2nd ROW 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total (= 4-4-4-6-6-6 rows worked). When all increases for V-neck and armhole are done, there are 42-45-48-49-52-54 stitches on needle.

Work until piece measures 26-27-28-29-31-32 cm, measured from pick up-edge at the top of front piece, finish with a row from right side.
Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, now work right front piece along the right shoulder from back piece - read explanation below.

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 8 mm.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm, finish with a row from wrong side. Cut the yarn and slip stitches on a stitch holder, first work over band when picking up stitches for right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Now pick up stitches along right diagonal shoulder on back piece - begin from right side at the shoulder and pick up stitches out towards the neck as follows:
Pick up 1 stitch in every worked row inside outermost stitch (pick up 22-24-26-26-28-30 stitches from back piece) then work the 7 stitches from band on to needle = 29-31-33-33-35-37 stitches on row.
All length measurements on front piece are done from pick up edge.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches as before, purl the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches as before.
Work 1st and 2nd ROW until piece measures 8 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now increase for V-neck, also increase in the side towards armhole, thus read both of the next 2 sections before continuing to get an overview of when increase for armhole begins.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 9 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch towards the right - read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 2, work 7 band stitches as before.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl the rest of row.
Work 1st and 2nd ROW 11-12-13-13-14-14 times in total (= 22-24-26-26-28-28 rows worked).
11-12-13-13-14-14 increases have been done in total for V-neck. Then continue with stocking stitch and band stitches.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
When piece measures 23-24-25-25-27-28 cm, increase in the side as towards armhole follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 3 stitches, increase 1 stitches towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, work until 7 stitches remain, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl the rest of row.
Work 1st and 2nd ROW 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total (= 4-4-4-6-6-6 rows worked). When all increases for V-neck and armhole are done, there are 42-45-48-49-52-54 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 26-27-28-29-31-32 cm, measured from pick up-edge at the top of front piece, finish with a row from right side.
Now put front piece and back piece together for body as explained below. Now measure the piece from here.

BODY:
Work 1st row from wrong side - begin with stitches over right front piece and work the row as follows:
Work the 42-45-48-49-52-54 stitches from right front piece, cast on 6-6-6-10-10-12 new stitches at the end of this row (= in the side mid under sleeve), work the 70-76-82-84-90-94 stitches on back piece, cast on 6-6-6-10-10-12 new stitches (= in the side mid under sleeve), work the 42-45-48-49-52-54 stitches from left front piece = 166-178-190-202-214-226 stitches on needle.
Work back and forth from mid front over all stitches with stocking stitch and band as before.
Work until piece measures approx. 28-29-29-30-30-32 cm from armhole.
On next row from right side begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 18-18-18-22-22-22 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 184-196-208-224-236-248 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 6 mm, work band as before, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2 - remember increase) until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and band as before.
When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off.
Front piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm measured from pick up edge, front piece approx. 3 cm longer than finished measurements because the pick up edge is not mid on top of shoulder but somewhat down on back piece, jacket measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.

SLEEVES:
Sleeve is worked from the armhole and down.
Place piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of armhole = mid on top shoulder (NOTE! Mid on top shoulder is not same place as stitches were picked up for front piece but approx. 7 cm down on front piece).
Pick up stitches around armhole, use circular needle size 6 mm, begin in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve - pick up 48-52-54-62-64-68 stitches - adjust to pick up same number of stitches on each side of marker along armhole. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm.
Now work in stocking stitch back and forth with short rows over sleeve cap to get a better shape on sleeve, begin round mid under sleeve as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 6-6-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker on top of shoulder, turn piece – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 6-6-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 4-4-4-4-5-5 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work 4-4-4-4-5-5 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn piece.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4.
Work until 8-8-8-8-10-10 turns have been done in total (= 4-4-4-4-5-5 times in each side and last row is worked from wrong side).

AFTER LAST TURN:
On the last turn finish row by turning piece, then work from right side until beginning of round (mid under sleeve).
Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve, this is used when decreasing stitches under sleeve. Move marker thread upwards when working.
Now work in the round in stocking stitch over all stitches while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing under sleeve, read DECREASE TIP and decrease like this:
When sleeve measures 1-1-1-1-1-1 cm mid under sleeve decrease 2 stitches 3 times on every other round, then decrease 2 stitches every 6-4-4-3-2½-2½ cm 3-5-5-8-8-9 times in total = 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches on row.
Work until sleeve measures 42-40-39-39-37-37 cm from shoulder.
Switch to circular needles size 6 mm, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 4-4-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly on 1st round = 40-40-44-48-48-52 stitches.
When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off.
Sleeve measures approx. 48-46-45-46-44-44 cm from mid on top of shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands together, and sew them to the neckline at the back. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (3)

Carla Von Ahn wrote:

Hallo. Teil: Rumpfteil. Zu Beginn des Rumpfteils sollen die Maschen des rechten Vorderteils gestrickt werden, dann sollen Maschen angeschlagen werden. Ich verstehe nicht ganz, was das für Maschen sind die angeschlagen werden sollen. Sind die dann später unter der Achsel? Soll ich die an einem bestimmten Teil anschlagen oder sollen die frei hängen? Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen. LG Carla :)

31.10.2024 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Von Ahn, diese neuen Maschen (6, 10 oder 12 je nach der Größe) sind für die Seiten (Mitte under die Ärmel) - siehe diese Lektion, wo man für einen Pullover je 6 Maschen zwischen Vorder- under Rückenteil anschlägt. Viel Spaßb eim Stricken!

31.10.2024 - 15:53

Yvonne wrote:

Wenn ich der Anleitung folge und das Rückenteil stricke, wird der Armausschnitt ab Markierer auf der Schulter für Gr. Xl 15 cm lang bis die Maschen stillgelegt werden. Laut strickschrift sollte er aber für Grösse Xl 23 cm lang werden….\r\nÜberseh ich irgendwie etwas?\r\nDanke für die Hilfe🌸

20.10.2024 - 20:48

Liebe Yvonne, bei solchen Modellen mit europäischen Schulter sind die Armausschnitt beim Rückenteil kürzer als beim Vorderteil, so hat man hier in XL 15 cm beim Rückenteil + 31 cm bei den Vorderteile = 46 cm/2 = 23 cm. Schauen Sie unter Tab "Videos" und "Lektion" oben im Kopfteil, so finden Sie passende Videos/Letkionnen wo diese Technik schön erklärt wird. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

21.10.2024 - 09:21

PORTAL Odile wrote:

J'aimerai vraiment tricoter vos modèles mais je n'arrive pas à adoptervotre méthode de tricot "haut en bas". Ne pourriez-vous pas nous en donner les explications ? Merci, je suis une tricoteuse normale mais je pense que mon handicap vient du fait de mon âge : 75 ans. C'est difficile de me lancer et très perturbant.

13.10.2024 - 07:25

Bonjour Mme Portal, cette constructions avec épaules européennes est effectivement particulière et pour vous permettre de bien comprendre comment on doit faire, nous avons réalisé plusieurs vidéos et leçons que vous retrouverez dans les onglets Vidéos/Leçons (à droite de l'onglet Explications) en haut de page. Vous pouvez également retrouver tous nos gilets et vestes tricotés de bas en haut ici. Bon tricot!

14.10.2024 - 08:32