DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Button 536
DROPS Buttons
Charred No. 536
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Changing Seasons Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Andes. The piece is worked top down with stocking stitch, European/diagonal shoulders, V-neck, I-cord and pockets. Sizes S - XXXL.

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DROPS 254-42

#changingseasonscardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern an-074
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL – XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour 6990, navy blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 536: 4-4-4-4-5-5 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height, with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Button 536
DROPS Buttons
Charred No. 536
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern, seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP -2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn – this hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, lay the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back. There are now 2 loops on the needle, which are worked together on the next row.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches.
WRONG SIDE:
Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes from the right side and on the right band (when the garment is worn), when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before and knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm after the last increase for the V-neck. Then work the other 3-3-3-3-4-4 buttonholes with 10-10½-11-11-8½-9 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and moss stitch edge.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started by casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front pieces are started by working button-bands which are later sewn to the neckline. Then each front piece is worked by knitting up stitches along the back shoulders, working downwards while increasing for the V-neck and working until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body finished, working back and forth.
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
The bands from each front piece are sewn together (seam = mid-back), then sewn to the neckline.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (= right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 3.
AFTER ROW 3:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 9-9-9-10-10-11 times (= 18-18-18-20-20-22 rows), after the last increase there are 54-54-56-60-62-66 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side; the piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 10-10-10-11-9-9 cm, measured outermost along the armhole. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows) = 58-60-64-68-74-78 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-17 cm, measured from the marker outermost along the armhole, finishing with a row from the right side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left band and front piece as follows:

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 7½-7½-8-8-9-9 cm, finishing with a row from the wrong side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, from the neck to the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches as before, then knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the outermost stitch (18-18-18-20-20-22 stitches along the shoulder) = 25-25-25-27-27-29 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 3 and 4 until the piece measures 10-11-10-11-10-11 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now you increase for the V-neck, then subsequently for the armhole. The armhole increases begin before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times (= 10-10-12-12-12-12 rows).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times (= 16-16-16-16-20-20 rows).
You have increased 9-9-10-10-11-11 times for the V-neck. Continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 22-22-22-23-21-23 cm, increase towards the side as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-31 cm, measured from the knitted-up row: finish with a row from the right side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the right band and front piece as follows:

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 7½-7½-8-8-9-9 cm, finishing with a row from the wrong side.
Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder – the band is continued when knitting up stitches for the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the right back shoulder from the armhole to the neck as follows:
Knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the outermost stitch (18-18-18-20-20-22 stitches along the shoulder) and work the 7 band-stitches = 25-25-25-27-27-29 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 10-11-10-11-10-11 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now you increase for the V-neck, then subsequently for the armhole. The armhole increases begin before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 1 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl until to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times (= 10-10-12-12-12-12 rows).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Purl until there are 8 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1, work the 7 band-stitches
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times (= 16-16-16-16-20-20 rows).
You have increased 9-9-10-10-11-11 times for the V-neck. Continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 22-22-22-23-21-23 cm, increase towards the side as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-31 cm, measured from the knitted-up row: Finish with a row from the right side.
The front and back pieces are joined for the body. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Work as follows from the wrong side, starting with the right front piece:
Work the right front piece, cast on 2-4-4-6-6-8 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work the 58-60-64-68-74-78 back piece stitches, cast on 2-4-4-6-6-8 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work the left front piece stitches.
Work back and forth, with stocking stitch and the bands as before, continuing to increase for the V-neck.
When the increases for the V-neck are finished, there are 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and the bands as before – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
Work until the body measures 15-16-17-18-19-19 cm from the armhole – with the next row from the right side.
Now work pocket openings as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, place the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the pocket, cast on 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, place the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the pocket, cast on 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches = 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 66-74-78-88-94-104, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 66-74-78-88-94-104, A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
After row 4 continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches as before.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-36-37-37 cm from the armhole, with the next row from the wrong side, work the pockets as described below.

POCKETS:
Place the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from one thread on needle size 8 mm. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 19-19-19-18-18-18 cm, i.e., the pocket reaches down to the bottom stitches on the body, place the pocket-stitches on a stitch holder. Work the other pocket in the same way. The stitches from the pockets are now worked together with the body stitches from the right side as follows:
Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, knit together the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the body with the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the pocket (each stitch from the pocket is knitted together with 1 stitch from the body), knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, knit together the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the body with the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the pocket, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches = 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches. Now work an edge at the bottom of the body.

EDGE:
On the next row from the wrong side, work an edge as follows: Change to circular needle size 6 mm, work the band-stitches as before, work A.1 until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
When the edge measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The front piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from the knitted-up row. The front piece is approx. 3 cm longer than the back piece because the knitted-up row is not on top of the shoulder but slightly down the back piece. The jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole = mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not the same place as the knitted up row for the front piece but approx. 6-6-6-6-6-7 cm down the front piece).
Using circular needle size 8 mm and starting in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve, knit up 40-46-48-52-54-60 stitches around the armhole, making sure you knit up equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with short rows across the sleeve cap to give the sleeve a better fit, starting mid-under the sleeve:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit to 4-5-4-5-4-4 stitches past the marker on top of the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl to 4-5-4-5-4-4 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit to 4-3-3-3-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl to 4-3-3-3-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned 8-10-12-12-14-14 times (= 4-5-6-6-7-7 times on each side and the last row is from the wrong side).

AFTER THE FINAL TURN:
On the last repeat of row 4, turn and work back from the right side to the beginning of the round (mid-under the sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread mid-under the sleeve, which is used when decreasing. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Work stocking stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease as follows - read DECREASE TIP:
When the sleeve measures 1-1-1-1-1-1 cm measured under the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-5 times, every 2nd round, then decrease 2 stitches every 8-6-6-4½-4-3 cm 2-5-5-6-6-7 times = 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 45-46-46-44-44-43 cm from mid-top of shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work A.1 over all stitches for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The sleeve measures approx. 51-52-52-51-51-50 cm from mid-top of shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the bands together mid-back of neck and sew them to the neckline.
Sew the side seams on the pockets, from the wrong side – make sure the seam is not tight.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Annemieke wrote:

Bij MEERDEREN VOOR ARMSGATEN staat: eindig met een naald aan de goede kant. Wordt er dan bedoeld dat je de naald aan de goede kant breit of moet je juist stoppen voor je de naald aan de goede kant gaat breien?

14.11.2024 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annemieke,

Je breit de laatste naald aan de goede kant.

16.11.2024 - 18:05

country flag Sonja wrote:

Hej! Jag hittar mönstret men det finns ingen information om hur många maskor man skall lägga upp eller hur den ska stickas. Kan ni bifoga det? Tack!

18.09.2024 - 08:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sonja. Nu ska hela mönstret finnas tillgängligt här även på svenska. Mvh DROPS Design

25.09.2024 - 15:01

country flag Sonja wrote:

Hej! Jag skulle gärna sticka denna kofta men var finns beskrivningen?

11.09.2024 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du hittar beskrivningen genom att klikka på länken Höst & Vinter 2024/25 under GRATIS MÖNSTER.

11.09.2024 - 18:52

country flag Elisabeth Bäcklin wrote:

Det finns ingen beskrivning på den här modellen.

30.08.2024 - 23:18

Changing Seasons Cardigan



Knitted jacket in DROPS Andes. The piece is worked top down with stocking stitch, European/diagonal shoulders, V-neck, I-cord and pockets. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 254-42
DROPS Design: Pattern an-074
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL – XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour 6990, navy blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 536: 4-4-4-4-5-5 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height, with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern, seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP -2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT – from the wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT – from the wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole after each turn – this hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, lay the strand over the right needle and tighten well from the back. There are now 2 loops on the needle, which are worked together on the next row.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches.
WRONG SIDE:
Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD
RIGHT SIDE:
Work A.1 over the first 5 stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work A.1 over the next 5 stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes from the right side and on the right band (when the garment is worn), when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before and knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm after the last increase for the V-neck. Then work the other 3-3-3-3-4-4 buttonholes with 10-10½-11-11-8½-9 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and moss stitch edge.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started by casting on stitches at the back of the neck and working the back piece top down, while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders, which become slightly diagonal. The back piece is worked as far as the armholes.
The front pieces are started by working button-bands which are later sewn to the neckline. Then each front piece is worked by knitting up stitches along the back shoulders, working downwards while increasing for the V-neck and working until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined on the same circular needle and the body finished, working back and forth.
Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are started back and forth for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round.
The bands from each front piece are sewn together (seam = mid-back), then sewn to the neckline.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Cast on 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (= right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 3.
AFTER ROW 3:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 9-9-9-10-10-11 times (= 18-18-18-20-20-22 rows), after the last increase there are 54-54-56-60-62-66 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side; the piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 10-10-10-11-9-9 cm, measured outermost along the armhole. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows) = 58-60-64-68-74-78 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-17 cm, measured from the marker outermost along the armhole, finishing with a row from the right side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the left band and front piece as follows:

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 7½-7½-8-8-9-9 cm, finishing with a row from the wrong side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder towards you; left side of piece = left shoulder.
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, from the neck to the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches as before, then knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the outermost stitch (18-18-18-20-20-22 stitches along the shoulder) = 25-25-25-27-27-29 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 3 and 4 until the piece measures 10-11-10-11-10-11 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now you increase for the V-neck, then subsequently for the armhole. The armhole increases begin before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times (= 10-10-12-12-12-12 rows).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 1, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work the 7 band-stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times (= 16-16-16-16-20-20 rows).
You have increased 9-9-10-10-11-11 times for the V-neck. Continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 22-22-22-23-21-23 cm, increase towards the side as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band-stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-31 cm, measured from the knitted-up row: finish with a row from the right side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder. Work the right band and front piece as follows:

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Andes.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 7½-7½-8-8-9-9 cm, finishing with a row from the wrong side.
Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder – the band is continued when knitting up stitches for the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Starting from the right side, knit up stitches along the right back shoulder from the armhole to the neck as follows:
Knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the outermost stitch (18-18-18-20-20-22 stitches along the shoulder) and work the 7 band-stitches = 25-25-25-27-27-29 stitches.
All measurements for the piece are taken from this knitted-up row.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 10-11-10-11-10-11 cm.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Now you increase for the V-neck, then subsequently for the armhole. The armhole increases begin before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read the next 2 sections before continuing.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 8 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 1 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl until to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times (= 10-10-12-12-12-12 rows).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Purl until there are 8 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 1, work the 7 band-stitches
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work the 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times (= 16-16-16-16-20-20 rows).
You have increased 9-9-10-10-11-11 times for the V-neck. Continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 22-22-22-23-21-23 cm, increase towards the side as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band-stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-3-4-4-6-6 times (= 4-6-8-8-12-12 rows).
Continue working until the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-31 cm, measured from the knitted-up row: Finish with a row from the right side.
The front and back pieces are joined for the body. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Work as follows from the wrong side, starting with the right front piece:
Work the right front piece, cast on 2-4-4-6-6-8 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work the 58-60-64-68-74-78 back piece stitches, cast on 2-4-4-6-6-8 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work the left front piece stitches.
Work back and forth, with stocking stitch and the bands as before, continuing to increase for the V-neck.
When the increases for the V-neck are finished, there are 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and the bands as before – remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
Work until the body measures 15-16-17-18-19-19 cm from the armhole – with the next row from the right side.
Now work pocket openings as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, place the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the pocket, cast on 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, place the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the pocket, cast on 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches = 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 66-74-78-88-94-104, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work 7 band-stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13, work A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 66-74-78-88-94-104, A.1 over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches, purl 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches.
After row 4 continue with stocking stitch and the band-stitches as before.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-36-37-37 cm from the armhole, with the next row from the wrong side, work the pockets as described below.

POCKETS:
Place the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from one thread on needle size 8 mm. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 19-19-19-18-18-18 cm, i.e., the pocket reaches down to the bottom stitches on the body, place the pocket-stitches on a stitch holder. Work the other pocket in the same way. The stitches from the pockets are now worked together with the body stitches from the right side as follows:
Work the 7 band-stitches, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13, knit together the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the body with the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the pocket (each stitch from the pocket is knitted together with 1 stitch from the body), knit 66-74-78-88-94-104, knit together the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the body with the 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches from the pocket, knit 10-10-10-11-12-13 and 7 band-stitches = 134-142-150-162-174-186 stitches. Now work an edge at the bottom of the body.

EDGE:
On the next row from the wrong side, work an edge as follows: Change to circular needle size 6 mm, work the band-stitches as before, work A.1 until there are 7 stitches left, work the 7 band-stitches as before.
When the edge measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The front piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm from the knitted-up row. The front piece is approx. 3 cm longer than the back piece because the knitted-up row is not on top of the shoulder but slightly down the back piece. The jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole = mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not the same place as the knitted up row for the front piece but approx. 6-6-6-6-6-7 cm down the front piece).
Using circular needle size 8 mm and starting in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve, knit up 40-46-48-52-54-60 stitches around the armhole, making sure you knit up equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with short rows across the sleeve cap to give the sleeve a better fit, starting mid-under the sleeve:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit to 4-5-4-5-4-4 stitches past the marker on top of the shoulder, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl to 4-5-4-5-4-4 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit to 4-3-3-3-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl to 4-3-3-3-3-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned 8-10-12-12-14-14 times (= 4-5-6-6-7-7 times on each side and the last row is from the wrong side).

AFTER THE FINAL TURN:
On the last repeat of row 4, turn and work back from the right side to the beginning of the round (mid-under the sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread mid-under the sleeve, which is used when decreasing. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Work stocking stitch in the round, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease as follows - read DECREASE TIP:
When the sleeve measures 1-1-1-1-1-1 cm measured under the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-5 times, every 2nd round, then decrease 2 stitches every 8-6-6-4½-4-3 cm 2-5-5-6-6-7 times = 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 45-46-46-44-44-43 cm from mid-top of shoulder.
Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work A.1 over all stitches for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The sleeve measures approx. 51-52-52-51-51-50 cm from mid-top of shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew the bands together mid-back of neck and sew them to the neckline.
Sew the side seams on the pockets, from the wrong side – make sure the seam is not tight.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side

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